Tom`s travels: Ventimiglia (03/08/2021)

On another sunny day on the Ligurian coast, we decided to take a day trip west and head to visit the city of Ventimiglia, close to the border with France. First, we reached the nearby train station of Arma di Taggia on foot, and after taking the next train reached the city of Ventimiglia about twenty minutes after. Leaving the train station we then headed on foot through the city center and shortly after reached the core of the old town, built on a hilltop overlooking the Roia river and the sea right nearby. We started the ascent of the steep slope through the typical narrow streets, the caruggi, and then reach the main square, the Piazza Cattedrale. Here we visited the town's main church, the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, originally dating between the 11th and 13th centuries in a Romanesque style, with later alterations such as the baroque bell tower, and neo-romanesque facade. The interior though mostly featured its original romanesque aspect including the general plan and columns, the apse, and the cupola. At the back next to the apse, a small door led then to the romanesque baptistry which functioned as a small museum, showcasing some nice medieval artifacts once decorating the cathedral. After the visit to the church, we then continued on along the old town, following the elegant straight main street, Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, sided by colored houses and palaces. On the way, we stopped to visit the beautiful Oratorio dei Neri, featuring an impressive interior with marbles and stuccoes from the baroque period. Once back out in the street, we headed on and reached the Belvedere San Michele, an opening on the northern end of town over the old walls and cliffside which granted a nice view towards the mountains to the north. Right next to it was the church of San Michele Arcangelo, originally dating to the 10th century in the Romanesque style it features a modern facade. The church was closed so we decided to continue on through the old town, at one point we headed out through the old city gate, Porta Nizza, and on to follow the coastal road headed west. The way, despite being on a sidewalk sided by the occasional traffic, was beautiful; with incredible views of the coast below and the Capo Mortola, the westernmost part of Liguria, the French city of Menton, and the principality of Monaco not far in the distance. After a bit of walking, at one point we left the main road and followed a minor one heading down to the beach in a hamlet called Latte. Here we had a brief stop to enjoy the nice water and sun. There were quite some people there, despite the rather remote location, and after a refreshing swim, we were ready to head on. As we left the beach we continued on a minor road, right above the train line and overlooking the coast. We found out this coincided with the ancient Roman road, Via Julia Augusta, that once united the two cities of Piacenza and Arles. I was quite excited to follow it and thought it would be once really great to walk all along its entirety. After a bit like this we then eventually reached the Giardini Botanici Hanbury, one of the most famous botanical gardens in Italy. They are located a couple kilometers from the French border on the previously mentioned Mortola cape. Established in 1867 by the businessman and gardener Sir Thomas Hanbury on the premises of the Palazzo Orengo which he bought for the purpose, they are now one of the most famous acclimatization gardens in Europe and the Mediterranean basin. They are currently held by the University of Genova, which manages them as a study center and as a botanical garden open for visitors. As we reached the entrance we paid a rather hefty ticket, 9 euros, and began our self-guided tour of the beautiful gardens. They are located on a gentle hill sloping down to the sea, as is typical here on the Ligurian coast. The beautiful plants and trees from all over the world are laid out in a typical English-garden style, with irregular pathways and romantic rustic pergolas and patios, and always with picturesque sea views in the background. We passed some beautiful specimens of cacti, aloe, and palms and then reached the villa proper where the Englishman used to live. Hanbury died here in 1907 and had a mausoleum built in a Moorish revival style where he was laid to rest with his wife. As we continued down the slope we passed once again by the trace of the ancient Roman road, the Via Julia Augusta, which cuts through the gardens heading further west. Then as we reached the bottom of the slope we took a short break. The sea was right nearby but a large fence had been built around the gardens so it was not accessible. It was then time to go and we had to walk all the way back uphill to exit the gardens. Once outside we followed the road once more, heading back from where we came. A while later we passed once again through Ventimiglia and heading down to the modern part of the city stopped at a supermarket to grab some lunch. As we continued on, heading east, we then left the city and passed by the archaeological area of Nervia which holds the remains of Albintimilium, an ancient Roman city of the imperial age on the border with Gaul. Among the ruins are particularly nice to admire the thermal baths and the ancient theatre. As we headed on, we crossed the Nervia river, which gave its name to the archaeological area, and shortly after passed through the seaside town of Vallecrosia. As we continued on, we then finally reached the famous resort town of Bordighera, the last stop of the day. Located on the Sant'Ampelio cape, it is the southernmost point in Liguria. Due to its incredible climate which in the winter grants an average temperature of 10 degrees and in the summer averages in the mid-20s rarely exceeding the 30s, it has been a favorite destination since ancient times. In fact, especially during the 19th century, the town became known worldwide and many artists, famous people, and a large part of the European nobility of the time would come and spend their winters there. Many hotels, villas, and buildings were built during that period, expanding the small old town on the hilltop into a notorious modern seaside town. As we reached the city center, we stopped at a bar called La Casa del Caffè where we had a nice aperitivo, with beer and finger food. Then after that refreshing stop, we headed on to explore the town, admiring the nice palaces and old houses and reaching then the old town on the hilltop. We entered the old town through the baroque city gate, Porta Sottana, and went around the pretty narrow streets, reaching then the picturesque small main square, Piazza del Popolo, sided by colorful houses and the church of Santa Maria Maddalena with its elegant baroque bell tower. Once we had seen around enough we headed back out of the old town and reached the tip of the nearby cape, where the small church of Sant'Ampelio, which gives the name to the promontory, is located. Built in a Romanesque style during the 11th century it is quite simple but set in a beautiful location right on the sea. We enjoyed the view from there for a while and then decided to head back along the seaside until we reached the train station of Bordighera from where we eventually took the next train back to Riva Ligure.