Tuesday, August 18, 2020

Halle (18/07/2019)

Another day another day-trip, this time to the city of Halle. After a 2h bus ride southwest of Berlin, I reached the bus station and got off continuing on foot. A historic town it was, like most other cities in Germany, damaged during WWII but probably not one of the most damaged as part of its center was spared from the bombings. As I approached the city center I passed by the Leipziger Turm, its name due to the nearby road heading out towards Leipzig. I then reached the city's main square, the Marktplatz, dominated by the main monuments. At its center stands the iconic and beautiful Roter Turm, or Red Tower, built during the 15th century as the bell tower for the nearby church of Our Lady, detached from the building as it was more typical in Italy rather than in Germany. Nearby, the Market Church of Our Lady, built during the 16th century using elements of two pre-existing churches. The four towers which crown its structure we added subsequently and together with the Red Tower characterize the city's skyline known in fact as the city of five towers. I decided to enter the church and admire the beautiful gothic interior, while someone played an enjoyable tune on the historic baroque organ granting a mystic atmosphere. The composer George Frideric Handel was baptized here and received his first organ lessons and in fact, a statue representing him now stands at the center of the square. After exiting the church, I then walked through some nicely preserved streets of the old town with pretty baroque and neoclassical buildings eventually reaching the Dom or Cathedral. Founded as a Dominican Monastery during the 13th century it was then later turned into the city's Cathedral by Cardinal Albert of Brandenburg in 1520 and modified as well. It featured a nice Gothic interior with Renaissance and Baroque additions such as the nice main altar. To the south of the cathedral, the Neue Residenz was built by the same Cardinal in order for the complex to become one of the most influential north of the Alps. It now features a beautiful courtyard that has been turned into a pretty garden filled with benches, sofas, and tables where to enjoy a drink or simply relax as if in a public park. Continuing my walk I then reached the large complex of the Moritzburg, a fortified castle built in the early renaissance style during the 15th century in order to become the residence of the Archbishops of Magdeburg. Its refurbished facade granted it a polished and nice view flanked by towers and a bridge over what used to be the moat surrounding it. The inner courtyard granted a view of the different structures characterizing the complex including the modern glass additions which now house, with the rest of the complex, the Art Museum. I decided to skip visiting the museum and instead headed on to reach the northern end of the city where the Giebichenstein Castle is located. Originally built during the 9th century it later became a royal residence of the Holy Roman Emperor Otto I and was later given to the Archbishopric of Magdeburg granting Halle a state of political autonomy by the 13th century. It now stands mostly in ruins with a few structures still standing, including the main keep's tower, all made in red brick which nicely contrasts with the greenery surrounding it. The lower part of the complex, with some baroque and neoclassical buildings, now house one of the campuses of the Burg Giebichenstein University of Art and Design. As I had reached the limits of the city I decided to head back towards the city center by following the river Saale which flowed right below the castle. A nice pedestrian and cycling path ran along its bank which I followed until I reached a nice area with greenery and a small beach right on the river. Many people were enjoying the sunny weather and I decided to do so as well by taking off my shoes and lying on the sandy bank. After relaxing there for a while and having a dip with my feet in the water I then headed back along the route eventually reaching the city center once again. I passed by the church of St Moritz which I entered and admired its Gothic architecture from the 14th century. I then once more crossed the Marktplatz while admiring the main monuments, passed by the Neobaroque courthouse with beautifully painted facades, and reached the Stadtgottesacker, the city cemetery. Laid out during the 16th century, this renaissance cemetery is completely surrounded by walls in the style of the Italian Camposanto. I walked through it and then eventually exited and directing myself towards the bus station from where I took my bus back to Berlin.

The Marktplatz

Colorful houses on the Marktplatz

The so-called Red Tower

The Cathedral with the Neue Residenz

Interior of the Cathedral

The cloister of the Neue Residenz turned into a pretty garden

The Moritzburg complex

Giebichenstein Castle ruins

View of the Market Church of Our Lady