Tuesday, February 6, 2018

Colmar, Eguisheim, Riquewihr, Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg (17/04/2017)

Again with my relatives, this time with the addition of Ania, we decided to explore a bit of the villages of Alsace. Having the car I decided to visit those which were further away from Strasbourg. Our first stop was Colmar, as I had to show it to my family being it so nice and famous. After finding a parking spot, we headed into town immediately as we had left quite late because the others had a problem with timing their showering turns. We visited the main areas, passing by the Petite Venise, with the beautiful timber-framed houses along the Lauch canal, then walking along the Grand Rue past the Ancienne Douanne and eventually reaching the Cathedral. Walking around town we decided to head back to the car and drive to our next destination. We reached the town of Eguisheim, located just a few kilometres south of Colmar, and parked our car right out of the old town. The town is part of the club the Most Beautiful Villages of France and rightly so. We headed into the small circular town on foot and admired its beautiful alleyways all full of splendid timber-framed houses. At the center of the town stands a small castle rebuilt in the neo-gothic style, a baroque fountain and a church. As it was time for lunch we decided to eat at a small place called Creperie La Galinette, which as the name suggests, made some really good salty and sweet crepes filled with various ingredients. After lunch we strolled around town once more as the rain which had followed us since Colmar, had given us a short respite and some rays of sun had decided to show between the clouds. After that we headed for the car, while my dad decided to buy a few bottles of wine from Wolfberger to take back home to Italy. Driving a few kilometers north we reached our third stop Riquewihr. Also part of the club the Most Beautiful Villages of France, it holds a perfectly maintained old medieval center which was spared during both the world wars. Unfortunately as we got out the car it started pouring so we had to explore the streets under umbrellas and a bit of fog. However the town was beautiful nonetheless with the typical timber-framed houses, surrounded by medieval walls and guarded by a tower gate. Driving further north we reached out fourth and final stop; the Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg. Unfortunately it was already six in the afternoon and so we had arrived after closing time. However we managed to see the castle from the outside by touring the castle ramparts. The haze which had come up though gave the castle an even more interesting look. Originally built probably during the 12th century the castle managed to survive until the Thirty Years War when the Swedish forces beseiged and destroyed it. It was left in ruins for a few centuries until, under the rule of Emperor Wilhelm II, which took control of it after the Franco Prussian War, it was reconstructed in a medieval style from 1900 to 1908. After the visit to the castle we decided to head back to Strasbourg where we had dinner at a resaturant and then went to sleep as my family would leave early the next morning. 

Courtyard in Colmar

Houses on the Lauch canal in Colmar

The main square in Eguisheim

One of the streets in Eguisheim

Split street in Eguisheim

Another view of the previous street

Main street and tower gate in Riquewihr

The main street in Riquewihr

Another street in Riquewihr

Street in Riquewihr

The Castle of Haut-Koenigsbourg

Haze coming up

View of the castle

Another view of the castle

Monday, February 5, 2018

Worms, Lorsch, Speyer (16/04/2017)

After my parents, brother, aunt, uncle and cousin had come to visit me in Strasbourg, I decided to "use" the fact they had come by car to visit some places I had planned to visit but had found they were hard to get to by public transport. So after a hearty breakfast at the hotel they were staying in we left the city headed for our fist stop of the day; the german city of Worms. After reaching the center we parked our car and headed to the city's main monument: the Dom or Cathedral. Built from the 12th to the 13th century in Romanesque style, the church is a Unesco World Heritage Site, and has been an important religious building in local and international history. It was the site of the nomination of Pope Leo IX, the marriage between Emperor Frederick II and Isabella of England, and the famous Diet of Worms of 1521 which condemned Luther as a heretic. As we went inside, there was a mass going on being it a Catholic church and Easter Sunday there were quite a few people so we waited for it to end and participated in the mass itself,  before visiting the interior. Once the mass was over, we admired the great vaulting arches and the two choirs at each end of the church. Below the ground was also a crypt holding the burilas of some of the Salian princes, belonging to a Frankish dynasty. After exiting the Cathedral, we strolled a bit around the city and then back into the car to head to our next destination. Exiting the city, we passed right by the Nibelungen tower and bridge, a end of 19th century tower bridge built in a neo-romanesque style. We reached the small town of Lorsch just twenty minutes later and parked out car close to the center. Walking away from our car we explored the tiny town center which features some nice timber-framed houses including the 18th century town hall. Right across from it, we reached the main attraction of the town: the Lorsch Abbey. Also a Unesco world heritage site, the Imperial Abbey used to be one of the most renowned monasteries of the Carolingian Empire. Now mostly in ruins, there are some parts of the building remaining which are some of the best examples of pre-Romanesque Caroligian architectural style. Originally built in the 8th century, the building had maintained its style more or less unchanged until the Thirty Years War when the Abbey, together with many other towns around (see my Heidelberg post) was pillaged and left to ruins by the Spanish and then later by the French. What remains is the entrance hall called Aula Regia, built in the 9th century and the foundations of the church building itself. It was then time for our third and last stop of the trip: Speyer. After finding a parking spot we headed into the city center to visit around. We headed for the main attraction first: the Cathedral, inscribed in the Unesco world heritage list. Similarly to the one in Worms, this church was built during the 11th century in the Romanesque style. It is considered the largest church in that style and has been a symbol of imperial power as it was the burial place of Salian, Staufer and Habsburg emperors and kings. Having suffered damage during the Nine Years War at the end of the 17th century by the French, the church was later restored and still stands today. After walking the huge main nave, we went undeground to see the crypt holding the royal tombs above mentioned. After touring the imposing church, we headed out walking along the city's main street, the Maximilianstraße. Lining it were several historical buildings such as the town hall, church and the old mint. We were then very hungry as it was already 4pm so we decided to look for a place to eat. We found a place called Wirtshaus am Dom which served traditional food in traditional clothes. My brother and I tried the Pfalz dish comprising bratwurst, liver dumplings, saumagen, a type of stomach dish, and bread accompanied then by a local beer. After eating we finished our stroll of the city on the western edge of the center where the Altportel, or old gate, stands dating to the 13th century. By then a little bit of sunshine had come out after a whole day of cloudy weather. So enjoying our walk a little further we eventually got back in the car and headed back to Strasbourg.

Interior of the Worms Cathedral
View of the Cathedral


One of the apses of the Cathedral

The Nibelungen tower bridge

Town hall in Lorsch

The Lorsch Abbey

Interior of the Speyer Cathedral

The crypt

View of the Speyer Cathedral

View of the Cathedral from the main street

The mint and other buildings along the main street

Another view of the main street

The main street and the Cathedral

The Old gate

Sunday, February 4, 2018

Besançon (12/04/2017)

Taking an early bus, we left Strasbourg and reached the city of Besançon nearly four hours later. Unfortunately the bus stop was far from the city center so we had to take a tram headed in that direction. After reaching the city center, we decided to begin our visit on the left bank of the Doubs river, where the 18th century Eglise de Sainte Madeleine stands as parish for the small neighborhood on this side of the river. After visiting the church's interior we walked uphill and reached the Fort Griffon, dating to the 16th century and one of the many forts present all around the city. From there we had a relatively nice view of the city and enjoyed the sunny weather. Walking back down towards the city, we passed by a small square which had a fountain at its center called Fountain of Bacchus, and then passed by and entered the courtyard of the Hotel de Champagney, a 16th century palace. From there we took a left turn and passed the city's synagogue before reaching the river once more. Crossing the main bridge, the Pont Battant, we reached the main part of the city. We then reached the large Place de Revolution, with the Fine Arts Museum building which was unfortunately closed. Nearby we glanced at the old building of the Université de Franche-Comté and the covered market right in front of it. Walking further we passed and entered the Eglise de Saint Pierre also dating to the 18th century. Not far from there we admired the beautiful facade of the 16th century renaissance building of the Palais de Justice which used to be the parliament building of the Franche Comté. Walking along the main street, Grand Rue, we passed and entered the Eglise Saint Maurice from the 18th century. Not to far on we then came across the birthplace houses of Vicot Hugo on the right side of the main street, and right across from it the birthplace of the Lumiere brothers. Just a little further was the Square Castan, a park created around the archaeological remains, a few columns, of the roman city of Vesontio. Right next to the park in fact, stands, as a city gate, the Porte Noire, a gallo-roman triumphal arch built during the 2nd century. Passing under the gate, we had to walk uphill for a bit eventually reaching the impressive and imposing Citadel. A Unesco world heritage site, the Citadel is a 17th century fortress dominating the city fom the top of a rocky outcrop surrounded by the Doubs river on either side. The site is part of the larger extended site including all of Vauban's fortifications around France. Entrance to the main area was paid, and as it included a zoo, we decided not to visit but were still able to see part of the fortifications and a large area between the entrance and the main part of the citadel. We also enjoyed the sun and had our lunch in the park located there. As we were heading back down into the city we noticed some movement close to the street and were surprised to spot a Chamois just running around freely, we were worried it might have run from the zoo, though i doubt it as the exhibits were on the total opposite side of the fortress and it might just be an animal which strayed around as the mountains are not that far. Nonetheless, continuing our walk, we reached the river once more, where the 16th century Porte Rivotte was located. From there we had to walk quite a while and mostly uphill eventually reaching the spot where the Saint Leonard Caves are located. The cave we entered was very dark so we decided not to venture too far in despite having torchlights on our phones. The view from up there was really nice, with both the Citadel and the city on sight. Once back in the city, we headed to the Cathedral. Built in the Gothic style with some Romanesque features remaining from its earlier costruction it interestingly features two choirs; one Gothic and the other Baroque on each end of the church. The interior also hold a Virgin and Saints by Fra Bartolomeo, as well as a beautiful astronomical clock dating to the 18th century. After the visit to the church our last stop of the trip was the Musee du Temps. Hosted inside the Palais Granvelle, a Renaissance palace from the 16th century, this history museum hold several objects, including a large number of clocks as the name of the museum suggests, but also maps, objects, furniture and paintings relating to the city itself. The view from the upper part of the palace was also a pleasant addition. Entrance was free for students so it was really worth it.

The Palais de Justice

View of the Grand Rue

Typical housing along the Grand Rue

The Porte Noire

Entrance to the Citadel

View of the Citadel from river level

View of the Citadel and city from the Grottes de Saint Leonard

The Baroque choir of the Cathedral

View of the city from the Musee du Temps

Saturday, February 3, 2018

Bike Trip Osthoffen, Ergersheim, Wolxheim, Avolsheim, Molsheim & Dachstein (08/04/2017)

I decided to bike a half-day trip to some towns west of Strasbourg. After heading out of the city along the bycicle route I was in open countryside and cycling along the first green fields of the season and blooming trees. My first stop was the small village of Osthoffen with its famous Chateau. Passing trhough the tiny center and right after the Church of St Jacques, I reached the castle. The main gate was open, though an info board said guided tours of the interior were only available upon reservation. I decided to enter the gardens and see the chateau from up close. Dating to the 13th century, the main body features renaissance characteristics typical of the 15th century. After seeing the building from the outside I got back on my bicycle and headed on reaching the town of Ergersheim. I passed through and then crossed the town center of Wolxheim with its typical timber-framed houses. Just a few kilometres later and along a small canal I reached the town of Avolsheim. The town is part of the French Towns and Villages in Bloom, having been awarded one flower. Once I reached the center I came up to the Chapel of St Ulrich, dating to the 10th century; in the form of a hoctagon the interior holds a surviving 12th century frescoed cupola. Next to it stands a Neo-romanesque church dating to 1911 which was supposed to replace the much older Dompeter church dating to the 11th century but 1km south of the town thus not practical. Continuing on my bicyle ride, I reached the town of Molsheim. I entered the town from the east and visited the Jesuits Church first, the largest in town, built in the 16th century still in a Gothic style, which was already old and dated for the time. After that I reached the southern entrance of the town guarded by the Porte des Forgerons, dating to the 14th century, and holding a plaque remembering its liberation by the american troops in 1944. I cycled back in and reached the main square, the Place de l'Hotel de Ville. On its eastern end stands the Metzig, a renaissance building serving as the butcher's shop of the time. Getting back on my bycicle I went on about the town observing the beautiful houses and palaces, many of which in the traditional timber-framed style typical of the region. I also came across the old Chartreuse which now serves since 1985 as the location of the Bugatti Museum, as this is the lcoation where the italian engineer moved to found his car company Bugatti. Cycling out of town, after just a few kilometers I reached the small town of Dachstein. Small and quaint, this little town features a pretty gate called Porte de la Bruche with a canal running in front of it and right next to it the Chateau de Turckheim built in the renaissance style. Cycling along the small center I admired some nice houses; one dating to the 18th century particularly caught my eye as it had its court open and featured the typical corn cobs haning from the terraces and drying out in the sun. From there it was a direct cycle back to Strasbourg in a peaceful and sunny afternoon along canal lined by trees and fields.

View along the cycling route

Chateau de Osthoffen

Open countryside

Chapel of St Ulriche and Church of St Materne in Avolsheim

View of Avolsheim

One of the streets in Molsheim

The Porte des Forgerons

Main square and Metzig of Molsheim

Another street in Molsheim

Interior of the Jesuit Church in Molsheim

View of Dachstein



Friday, February 2, 2018

Basel (07/04/2017)

For one of our classes in Strasbourg, we took a trip to the Swiss city of Basel. Our teacher had decided to visit the two main museums there and have our class at their premises. So after taking the flixbus we arrived to our destination and gathered together with the others of our group who had also come by bus or by train. Our first visit was to the Kunstmuseum or Museum of Fine Arts. It contained a collection of art dating from the 15th century to the modern times. Each member of our group had the task to choose one painting among the museum's collection and present it to the rest of the class. I chose Macbeth and the Witches of Koch. After our presentations and touring the rest of the museum, we headed out and were given around one hour to have lunch and do whatever until we met again for the second museum. We decided to head to the Minster or Cathedral which was just a few meters away from the museum. As we had packed lunch to take with use we decided to eat it with the others who had done the same in the small square behind the Cathedral's apse called Pfalz. The square was a really nice spot overlooking the Rhine river below and with a nice view over the city. After enjoying the sun, company and food, Ania and I decided to visit the Cathedral. Built between the 11th and 16th centuries in the Romanesque and Gothic styles, it is characteristic because of its red sandstone architecture and slim twin towers at its sides. After seeing the interior of the Cathedral and its cloister we headed to the meeting point where we all took the tram headed out in the direction of the Beyeler Foundation. The museum built by architect Renzo Piano houses a collection of 20th century art as well as some tribal art from Africa and Oceania. There was also a temporary exhibition which was the focus of our class on Impressionist art including famous paintings of Monet. After touring the museum and then enjoying the sun outside followed by an explanation of what we had seen and learnt that day, our day was over and everyone was free to do as they liked. We decided then to get back in the city and meet with Ania's friend. As we reached the city centre again, we decided to have a drink at the nice riverside across the Rhine with a great view of the old town. After chatting and enjoying the drinks it was stime to head back and catch the next bus to Strasbourg so saying our goodbye we headed to the bus stop where we then took our ride home.

View from the Pfalz

View of the Cathedral from the cloister


View of the Cathedral square

The Beyeler Foundation

View of the countryside around the museum

View of the old town from the other side of the Rhine river

Sunset and one of the bridges over the river