Tom`s travels: Valle d'Aosta (16-22/08/2021)

After Ania left to head back to Germany, my parents and I decided to go for a few days to the mountains. My aunt and uncle invited us to spend a few days with them in their mountain house in Courmayeur, in the region of Valle d'Aosta, in northwestern Italy. It was quite a long drive from Vicenza, and took us about 4h 30, arriving just before sunset. Once there, my aunt and uncle had already arrived and we then decided to order pizza and eat it all together at home. The following day my dad and I had decided to use our day well by planning a hike and so woke up early taking advantage of all the sunlight hours available. We got in the car and drove out of Courmayeur and up the nearby Val Ferret, which together with the Val Veny on the opposite side form a northeast-southwest corridor right below the Monte Bianco, the tallest mountain in Europe. Three-quarters of the way up the valley we then reached the Chalet Val Ferret, a restaurant that we had chosen as a meeting point, later on, to have lunch with my mom, aunt, and uncle who would join us later in the day. We were the first ones there and parked our car to begin our hike further up the valley. As we started on the first cars started appearing trying to look for a parking spot; generally, at one point the valley is then closed to cars as it fills up really fast, and people are supposed to leave their cars further down and hike all the way instead. Luckily we had come early and thus we were already on our way, following the marked trail 25 which was leading us to Col Ferret, the border with Switzerland. Our hike was starting at about 1600m above sea level and would take us to the highest point at about 2500m. As we left the restaurant, walking along the trail, we noticed the first hikers approaching us, as we had planned not to walk too fast so my dad would manage as well. The first part was all in the shade, as to our right, still covering the early morning sun, were the high peaks of the chain of the Grande Rochère-Grand Golliaz mountains, reaching heights of over 3000m. As we continued on we also met a friendly herd of cows munching on the fresh grass right next to the trail. We tried not to disturb them too much and continued on. While walking we also admired to the left the beautiful peaks of the Grandes Jorasses glistening in that mystic early morning sunlight. Finally, we reached the sunlight, and not long after the Rifugio Elena mountain hut at 2061m. It was just opening but we didn't really need any food or drinks so we decided to continue on. From here we already had a beautiful view of the Val Ferret down below and the imposing mountains to the right. The trail from the mountain hut onwards got a little steeper and harder but after a bit of walking, we eventually reached the Col Ferret at 2500m. It was extremely windy there as it was low and open towards the east and west, and being an alpine pass, was often generally so, this was reflected in the absence of trees. From here though we had an amazing 360 degrees view. To the east, the peaks of Switzerland, partly covered by clouds, to the south the chain of the Grande Rochère-Grand Golliaz, to the west the Val Ferret in all its splendor and the peaks of the Grandes Jorasses covering the whole view to the north as well. Due to their height, the tips were fully covered in snow and were amazing to look at. We took a few photos there and then found a spot in the grass to repair ourselves from the strong wind and eat a little snack. After the break we decided it was time to go, so we took the same path we used to come up and headed back down, passing once again by the Rifugio Elena mountain hut. From here instead of continuing on the path, we took another route, following the main road the people working at the hut used to come up with their cars. It was a little longer but easier and more comfortable. We walked along the river which formed the Val Ferret and after a bit of walking reached the Chalet Val Ferret where we finally met up with the others and had lunch all together enjoying then the warm sun while laying on the lounge chairs for the rest of the day.

The next day, tired from the hike the previous day, we decided to take it easy and woke up at a later hour. My parents decided to stay home, so I joined my aunt and uncle and drove this time to Val Veny. Halfway up the valley due to the late hour, the road ahead was already blocked so no more cars would be able to access it, so we just found a spot along the road there and from there continued on foot. The day was warm and sunny, and we started by walking along the Dora di Veny river, which forms the valley. To our right were the incredible mountain peaks, including the massive form of the Monte Bianco, the highest in Europe, and so aptly named, because even now on the warmest days of the year, it was fully covered in snow. At one point the path joined an asphalt street which we followed for a while until it started heading slightly uphill, we walked up two bends and then instead of heading further decided to head back along a nice trail, number 7, through the woods. It was nice and relaxing and granted us nice views of the valley below and the mountains around it here and there through the trees. Then the trail headed back down towards the valley, taking us to the mountain hut and restaurant La Zerotta, right next to where we had left the car. We then crossed the river and reached the small hamlet of Peuterey where we stopped at the main camping site there and had a sandwich for lunch. Right next to the camping was a group of traditional stone and wooden houses that looked really nice and great to have as a vacation house. After that, we decided to head back to the car and drive back to Courmayeur where we met up with my parents and spent the rest of the day at home and on the terrace sun tanning a bit.

In the morning, everyone else was a little tired and wished to wake up later, so I woke up early and decided to do a hike by myself. I left the house at around 9am with a mostly cloudy sky, passing through the city center of Courmayeur, and then headed up the northern suburbs reaching then the start of the trail at La Trappa. The trail is part of the larger Tour del Monte Bianco, a 170km 11-day hike that follows trails circling the Monte Bianco Massif. The day I had hiked with my dad we had walked a part of it, and I would also walk another part of it on my last day in the mountains. So from there, I followed the trail, and in less than an hour reached the Rifugio Bertone mountain hut located at 1989m. The official trail had written that it would have taken about 1h 45 minutes but apparently, I had been much faster than that. As I reached the hut the sun had started singing once again with most of the clouds dissipating, however, the Monte Bianco which was right in front of me was still mostly covered. However, as I then continued on past the hut and on the trail it started to peer through the clouds and show its majestic figure with its snow-capped peak. The trail was rather full of people both heading in the same direction as me or coming from the other way. I could hear all kinds of languages, particularly Italian, French, and American English, many of which were doing the multi-day hike, Tour del Monte Bianco. After a bit of walking, I then passed by a herd of cows peacefully munching on the grass with the amazing figure of the Grandes Jorasses mountains looming over in the background. Further on, after crossing a small stream coming down the peaks above I then reached, after a short final steep uphill stretch, the Rifugio Bonatti mountain hut, located at 2025m above sea level. Originally the signboard had stated it would have taken me 4h to reach the hut from the start of the trail but apparently, I had been much faster and it had taken me just less than 3 hours. After a short break enjoying the beautiful view, the warm sun, and a small snack, I then decided to head back down, past the hut, and towards the valley, Val Ferret. Here, back down at about 1600m, I passed through the small hamlet of Lavachey, and continued down the gentle valley, eventually, reaching after a couple of kilometers the restaurant La Retze, where all the others were waiting for my arrival. We had a tasty lunch and spent the rest of the day sun-tanning on the lounge chairs. Before leaving and heading back to the house, my dad and I decided to have a swim in the nearby river. It was extremely cold and my dad said dipping his toes inside was enough; I, on the other hand, dived with my whole body and then immediately came out to dry in the sun. After a bit, when I was completely dry, we headed back to the car and back to Courmayeur.

The following day, we woke up early again, and my mom, dad, and I took the car and drove to the small town of Arpy, a few kilometers south of Courmayeur. Here we reached a mountain hut called La Genzianella where we parked the car and continued on foot. We followed the nice trail through the forest, luckily still with barely any people, and in about half-hour reached the scenic Lago d'Arpy. This small body of water is located at about 2071m above sea level and is a popular spot for hikers and day trippers as it is easily reachable. Standing at its northern end we could admire the nice peaks surrounding the lake to the south, the Colle della Croce and the Monte Colmet. This created a really mesmerizing view, even at that early hour with the sun still hidden behind the peaks. After continuing on along the trail we reached the other end of the lake, the southern side, and from here turning around gazed at the beautiful view in front of us. The lake, with the peaks of the Grandes Jorasses far in the distance glistening in the sun with their snow-capped tips. I then proposed to continue on and reach the next lake, high up above among the peaks. It took us a bit, with my mom struggling a little behind. We walked up the steps dug out inside the rock face, passing by some nice waterfalls and admiring the view as we went. At one point I decided to take a tougher but more direct route up while my mother and dad took the main trail. I had to climb a few vertical rocks using my hands but shortly after reached the top where the Lago di Pietra Rossa was located, at nearly 2600m. It took me about 1h 30 from lake to lake, a little less than the 2h suggested on the signboards. Despite the altitude as there were still some peaks around and few clouds, the sun hadn't still shown itself. I walked around the lake for a bit while waiting for my parents and then had to wear my sweater again as it was rather windy and cold up there. Finally, I rejoined my parents who had just arrived and the sun also decided to come out. We lay a bit in the grass enjoying the beautiful view and eating a snack. Before heading back down, we admired the beautiful panorama from there, with the Monte Bianco and the Grandes Jorasses in the distance surrounded by many other mountain peaks. The Lago d'Arpy looked so tiny from up there. We then slowly headed down from the same path we had come up, especially as my mom did not wish to rush and hurt herself. Now the sun was full out and strong and started to feel rather warm even at that altitude. We passed yet again the nice waterfalls still with the beautiful view constantly in front of us, and then finally reached the lake once again. After a short break we then decided to head back and after the trail part through the forest eventually reached the car once again. On the way back to Courmayeur we stopped in the small town of Morgex where we bought some local specialties including sausages, cheese, and blueberry and raspberry pies.

My dad had not felt so well the evening before and did not feel like hiking the next day, so I decided to go alone and after waking up early, took the first bus which from Courmayeur brought me to the furthest possible spot for the bus along the Val Veny. I got off at the terminal in front of a wooden bridge, as the bus could not continue further, and from here started my hike. The way was easy, on a service road, and constantly slightly uphill up the valley. Still fully in the shade due to the early hour and high peaks to my left, I continued on and soon after came in sight of the Miage lake, a small lake formed by the melting of the Miage glacier. which comes down from the Monte Bianco At around 10 km in length, the glacier is Italy's longest glacier and also the largest debris-covered glacier in Europe, as debris covers it primarily through rockfall and avalanching from surrounding walls. Rather than the typical shiny blue and white of other glaciers, this one looked quite ugly and rather like a grey tongue or river flowing down. As I continued on I walked through an interesting kind of marshland, most probably formed by that same melting glacier, and with a beautiful panorama all around, with the Monte Bianco and its surrounding peaks to the right, and in front of me already basking in the sun the rocky figure of the Pyramides Calcaires. After a bit more walking through this incredible landscape and finally reaching the sunny part, I had a last steep uphill stretch and reached the Rifugio Elisabetta mountain hut at 2195m. Here I took a short break and had a nice tasty strudel while enjoying the sun and amazing view. That whole day had the best temperature and weather I ever had in the mountains with literally no clouds in sight for the whole day. As I left the mountain hut behind, heading further on and uphill I noticed several cute marmots coming out of their holes and enjoying the nice warm sun. They didn't particularly seem too afraid of me and would only scurry away if I got too close. The trail which had been mostly through partly rocky and partly grassy terrain now continued on through a completely rocky part. Soon after I got right below the aforementioned Pyramides Calcaires and all of a sudden as I was standing in a natural funnel between the peaks to the right and the rocky formation to the left it got really windy and cold. I descended then back down the other side and with the rock again serving as repair with the warm late morning sun, it got warm again. Not long after I came by a herd of cows grazing and some runners, clearly from the united states judging by their accents, came rushing by me along the trail. A little further up I then came across another hut, the Casermetta del Col de la Seigne, a nice place to chill for a little bit while observing the beautiful panorama of the Val Veny which I had just walked up from. Here the hut even had outside benches where you could charge your phone through the use of integrated solar panels, you could connect to the wifi, and a kind lady managing it was giving useful info and tips to tourists and hikers alike. After the break and one last push uphill, I finally reached the Col de la Seigne, an alpine pass at 2516m, and the border with France. From here I had an amazing view of the French part of the mountains on one side and the Val Veny with the Monte Bianco clearly in sight with its snowcapped peak on the other. Instead of heading back the way I came, I decided to continue on along another trail which would head along the crests of the mountains on the southern side of the valley. Before continuing on though I found a spot in the grass where to enjoy my lunch and the view before me. After eating I got back on my feet and continued on the trail, eventually reaching the Col di Chavannes, at 2603m. On the way up, as the trail was on the northern side of the mountain I even came across a tongue of snow still there which due to the heat had turned into ice and had made it a little tricky to cross over. From the top though I then had an amazing view of the Val Veny below and the surrounding peaks. I then continued onwards along the trail which was now protected from the wind and open to the south making it really nice, warm, and enjoyable, with lots of beautiful flowers of all colors growing right next to the path. As I went on I saw some other cute marmots and then passed by some small lakes some of which were still covered in ice and snow. Finally, after a last stretch uphill, I then reached another peak, the Monte Fortin, at 2758m the highest point of the day, and where the remains of a military shelter from the Great War can still be found. Despite the whipping wind, the view from there was incredible: to the south the Chavannes valley and in the distance, the Rutor glacier, one of the largest, while to the north the amazing peaks of the Monte Bianco, the Aiguilles de Trélatête, and to the east the Grandes Jorasses and the Val Ferret in the distance. The peaks looked as if they were just a few meters from me, so tall and large yet feeling so close; the day had really been the best ever to be able to see so much with such high visibility. From Mont Fortin I then continued along the trail which headed down a rocky part, very steeply, making it quite hard and risky due to it being rather slippery. Eventually, after reaching grass again it became rather easy again and I continued on along till I reached another herd of cows, grazing happily on fresh grass at a high altitude. To my left, I still had the amazing view of the peaks and everything felt so beautiful and surreal and I never wished for it to end. The sun was starting is slow descent as it got later in the afternoon. I continued on along the path and not long after started to come across the first trees after a long while. I passed a small lake, the Lago Checroui, and continuing on found myself walking through what I seemed to recognize as an area that is turned into ski slopes during the winter. I had come here a few years back when I was in high school so it was nice to see the place in a summer guise. After a bit more walking I then reached the hamlet of Checrouit where the cable car stops coming up from Courmayeur. In fact, I could see the town far down below, tiny like a miniature, and thought it would take me still quite a bit to reach it, and the worst part was all of it downhill so tough on my knees. The way down though did not take as long as I expected and with the sun still relatively high up I reached the house, happy after such a long hike and ready for a nice refreshing shower. I did a total of 32km, 1758m of ascent, 2216m of descent, and 9h 30 walking.