Tom`s travels: Oliero, Zumelle & Feltre (14/08/2021)

Once we had come back to Veneto from our trip in Liguria, we decided to do a day trip and visit the Grotte di Oliero, a cave complex found at the foothills of the Altopiano di Asiago, along the Valbrenta, north of Vicenza. After driving for about 45 minutes we reached the small hamlet of Oliero and after finding a spot to park the car we headed to the caves' entrance on foot. Once there we purchased the ticket, 10 euros each, and then entered the park which preceded the caves themselves. In order to get into the main cave, the Grotta Parolini, only a certain amount of people were allowed at once with a guided tour so there was quite some waiting time. Therefore in the meantime, we decided to walk around the rest of the park and enjoy that nice sunny day. We first saw two minor caves, the Covolo degli Assassini and the Covolo delle Due Sorelle which once must have had water flowing through them but were since long now dry. Nearby was the Oliero river, coming out from the mountainside from a natural spring formed by the rainwater from the Altopiano di Asiago above it, which due to its karst nature filters it through the rock until it reaches the river. The Oliero, which empties in the nearby Brenta River, with its 300m in length, is one of the shortest rivers in Europe. After our walk around admiring the lush green nature of the area and the beautiful cold crystal clear water of the river, it was time to head and visit the main cave. Our small group was put into a boat and directed by our guide who punted us through the cavity to see the cave. The first part was quite exciting as the rock ceiling was barely a few centimeters, and especially with high water meant our heads were brushing right by the rock. Then the cavity grew and we entered the cave proper. Nearly completely dark the guide punted on and in the meantime showed told us about the site and pointed at specific features with his flashlight. The water, we were told, is a constant 9 degrees all year round, and as mentioned filters through the rock from the rainwater that falls on the plateau 1000m above our heads. It also creates a small lake that reaches a depth of 13m and is surrounded by beautiful stalactites. The cave inside was really small but still nice to see, and anyways the best part was then the trip back again on the boat. Once outside we spend a little more time wandering around before heading back to the car and driving on to our next destination, the castle of Zumelle. On the way there we stopped along the road at a supermarket to grab some food to take with us and eat later. Once we came in sight of the castle, located on a hilltop, we noticed the last part of the road to reach it was really narrow, steep, and with the occasional car coming from the opposite direction that made it even worse. Nonetheless, with a bit of struggle, we managed to reach the top and park the car in the provided parking after paying the 2 euro fee. Once we got off we found a spot on a bench and enjoyed our lunch while admiring the profile of the medieval defensive structure in front of us. The castle was built in its current form during the early 14th century over a previous structure and is a typical small medieval structure with a central keep surrounded by crenelated walls. After finishing our lunch we tried to head inside and visit it but a ticket fee was required to enter so we thought not to go and instead enjoyed the small medieval reenactment which was taking place right in front of the keep's entrance with people in costumes and market stall selling all kinds of medieval-looking food and objects. From the castle, we then decided to head and visit a nearby famous attraction, the Grotta Azzurra. A path leading downhill from the castle and through the forest running along a small river, the Torrente Rui, took us about 30 minutes to reach the aforementioned site. The path was easy at the beginning but got a little harder as it crisscrossed the small river, forcing you to walk on slippery stones right on the water. Eventually, we reached the Grotta Azzurra, a natural rock formation, consisting of a small cave-like structure formed by the river which at that point falls in the form of a waterfall and created a small pool. There were quite some people there, as it seems the place was unknown until 2017 when a Facebook post finally put it on the map. There was also a group of people with a guide who was doing a kind of body rafting down the river and waterfall plunging then in the small pool and then getting up and repeating the process. They all wore neoprene suits as the water was really cold and there were even some kids there too. I decided to undress leaving just my underwear on, as I hadn't brought a swimsuit with me, and head into the pool as well. The water was freezing but I still managed to head inside and swim a little around the small pool passing through the cave and reaching the base of the waterfall. I then swam back, got out, and enjoyed the sun while sitting on a rock. After drying out we decided to head back along the path we took earlier and after the last part uphill we reached the castle once again and the car. We got on and then drove off to visit the last town of the day, Feltre. The city features an old town still featuring most of its medieval walls located on a hilltop at about 325m above sea level and surrounded by mountains. We found a spot to park right outside the southern walls and from there continued on foot and reached the first and main monument, the Co-cathedral. Built during the 16th century in a renaissance style, it featured a nice interior which we could not thoroughly visit as there was a mass soon starting. So we headed back on and continued walking until we reached then the city's southwestern gate, the Porta Imperiale, built in 1489 and renovated in its current classical forms in 1545. Once through we then walked slightly uphill along the main street lined by beautiful palaces, houses, and other buildings all in the typical form an architecture of the alpine foothill part of Veneto. After a short walk, we then reached the town's main square, Piazza Maggiore, surrounded by beautiful buildings and some of the main monuments of the city. At its center stands the column topped by the lion of st mark's symbol of the dominance of Venice as is in the case with most cities in Veneto and abroad. To the south of the square are a series of renaissance palaces known as Palazzetti Da Romagno-Bovio with long loggia below. Next to them is the Palazzo Pretorio, once hosting the Venetian Rectors who governed the city, and the Palazzo della Ragione completed only at the end of the seventeenth century and seat of the administrative offices of the Republic of Venice that governed the city from 1404 to 1797. To the north of the square the Palazzo Guarnieri, completely remodeled in the early nineteenth century with elegant neo-Gothic motifs, the 16th-century church of San Rocco, which was closed, and the beautiful 14th-century medieval clock tower part of the city's castle. Curiously the tower was topped by a metal half-moon, rumored to be of Middle Eastern origin, and part of the Venetian war booty collected during the Battle of Lepanto in 1571. From the square, we headed up a ramp and reached the aforementioned castle, which dominates the city from the highest point of the hill. Originally dating to the 6th century during the Langobard period it grew and was renovated and now features a mix of medieval and renaissance structures some of which altered during the 19th century. At the top stands the 34m high Torre del Campanon, which was used to announce, with the sound of its bells, the beginning of executions and to communicate, through fire or smoke signals, to the neighboring villages, imminent danger. An entrance fee was required to visit the castle as it included the visit to the museum inside. We didn't wish to do so so instead just stayed outside and admired the view of the city on one side and of the mountains on the other. After descending back down into the old town we continued along the main street admiring the rest of the beautiful buildings and eventually exiting the city center through the eastern city gate, the Porta Oria, the oldest of the three surviving. From there we walked back towards the car following the walls and once we reached it got on and finally drove Vicenza for dinner.