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| The Prenzlauer Tor in Templin |
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| The canal north of old town |
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| Timber-framed houses and the bell tower of the church of St Mary Magdalene |
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| View of the western part of the walls with the Berliner Tor |
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| The main square, the Markt, with the town hall |
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| View of the old town from the top of the Berliner Tor |
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| The main church, Stadtkirche, in Zehdenick |
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| The Zehdenick Abbey ruins |
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| The Sachsenhausen concentration camp |
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| The Oranienburg Palace |
On a nice sunny and warm Sunday, Ania and I decided to do a day trip south of Berlin and reach the train station of Beelitz-Heilstätten. Here, a large hospital complex composed of about sixty buildings had been built back in 1898. It was originally designed as a sanatorium by the Berlin workers' health insurance corporation, and then during World War, I was turned into a military hospital of the Imperial German Army. After being occupied by the Red Army forces in 1945, it remained a Soviet military hospital until 1995, well after the German reunification. After the Soviets finally left, several attempts were made to privatize the complex, without any success. Some sections of the hospital remain in operation as a neurological rehabilitation center and as a center for research and care for victims of Parkinson's disease. The remainder of the complex, including the surgery, the psychiatric ward, and a rifle range, was abandoned in 1994 and remains so still to this day, giving the area the feel of a ghost town. One interesting thing which was done though is a treetop path that was built in 2015 over the ruined buildings. We had in fact come specifically for that, and once we got off the train headed to its entrance on foot. After reaching it, to our surprise found out that a lot of other people had thought to do the same as us. After waiting in line for about an hour we finally managed to buy the ticket and enter the attraction. The path runs for about 800m on a structure formed of steel and wood and with a height of between 17 and 23m above the ground. It goes around the so-called, Alpenhaus, the ruins of what was once the women's lung sanatorium now covered in trees up to its rooftop, and reached then an observation tower with a height of 40.5m. From there the view spaces across the whole complex and further in the surrounding pine forest. We decided to walk the whole length of the path twice, by reaching the end of it the first time, heading back down at ground level, and then back up the stairs for the second round. After enjoying the view at each panoramic spot we decided it was time to leave. From there we then decided to follow the main road on foot and in about an hour reach the small town of Beelitz. After entering its small yet pretty old town, we walked around and enjoyed the simple nice architecture of this circular-shaped village. We then visited the main parish church, the church of Saint Mary and Nicholas, located right at the center of the town. Originally dating to 1247, it was then restored and mostly rebuilt during the 16th century in the late Gothic style seen today. Inside, the objects were sparse and mostly dating to the Baroque period such as the galleries, pulpit, and organ, as the church was ravaged by fire several times throughout its history. Once outside the church, we then found a nice cafe right in front where we bought an ice cream to share. We walked around town with it but the figured it was so good we headed back to grab a second one. Finally, after touring the whole city center we decided it was time to go and walked to the nearby train station from where we eventually took the next ride back home to Berlin.
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| The view from the treetop walk with the Alpenhaus, the women's lung sanatorium, to the left |
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| The view of the treetop walk and the surrounding forest from the observation tower |
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| Walking at ground level below the walkway |
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| A nice view where the treetop walk meanders through the forest |
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| One of the streets in the old town of Beelitz |
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| Church of St Mary and Nicholas in the old town of Beelitz |
On another day trip, this time with my girlfriend Ania, we decided to head south of Berlin and reach the town of Wörlitz first. In order to get there, we took a regional train to the city of Wittenberg and from there a local bus which in about 30 minutes took us to the destination. The town is a small settlement located right inside the Dessau-Wörlitz Garden Realm, one of the first and largest English parks in Germany and continental Europe. and a Unesco World Heritage Site. The park was created under the regency of Duke Leopold III of Anhalt-Dessau during the late 18th century as a way to move on from the formal garden concept of the Baroque era in favor of a naturalistic landscape strongly influenced by the ideals of The Enlightenment. As we got off the bus we walked through the nice small town of Wörlitz, which came to be after the construction of the park, as it happened with other palaces and large residences around Europe. We passed by and visited the town's main church, the Neogothic St Peter's Church built in 1809, with a rather nice still Neoclassical interior. Next to the church we then entered the park proper, with the elegant Wörlitz Palace at its center, built in 1773 as a residence for Duke Leopold and his wife Louise of Brandenburg-Schwedt, and the first Neoclassical building in present-day Germany. From the Palace, we then followed the main trail which took us around the small lake, Wörlitzersee. We passed by some nice buildings part of the landscape park such as the Eisenhart, built in bog iron, the Floratempel and Venustempel, replicas of ancient greek/roman temples, and the Gotisches Haus, built in 1774 and one of the first Neo-Gothic structures on the continent. Here we found a small imbiss, a food stand, where we took some food to go with the sandwiches we had brought from home. After eating we then continued our walk through the nice park and reached the eastern end where the small Villa Hamilton was located. Right next to the church was an extremely interesting and unexpected feature: on an artificial island, in 1782, Leopold III had his architects build an artificial volcano. In fact, just twenty years earlier the duke had done one of those typical Grand Tours the European aristocracy loved to do and had been captivated by a trip to Naples in which he saw a smoldering Mount Vesuvius. Thus on his return, he wished to somehow recreate it and surprise and astonish his guests and visitors by having that artificial structure spew out fire and smoke thanks to the fireplaces built inside. Today it is still Europe’s only artificial volcano. From the volcano, we decided it was time to head back towards town and manage to get the bus that would bring us back to Wittenberg. After reaching the city, we headed towards its city center on foot. The city is famous for its close connection with Martin Luther and the Reformation, having thus received the honorific title of Lutherstadt, together with the city of Eisleben. The city because of its relevance in the Reformation was inscribed in the Unesco World Heritage Site. It also luckily survived any major damage during WWII as it had been spared by bombings from the allies. As we reached the old town from the east, we first came upon the large structure of the Lutherhaus. Originally built in 1504 as an Augustinian monastery and seat of the city's university, in 1507 an unknown monk named Martin Luther was sent to teach and live on the premises. Nowadays the interior can be visited through guided tours with the Lutherstube, Martin Luther's parlor, left as it was five hundred years ago. We decided not to head inside the museum but just admire the nice courtyard with the Renaissance styled buildings around it. From the Lutherhaus we then followed the main street that cuts through the city from east to west and lined with nice historic buildings. We passed by another known building along the way, the Melanchthonhaus, house of another famous Protestant reformer and collaborator of Luther, Philipp Melanchthon. The building is a nice Renaissance house with some late Gothic features. After a bit more walking we then reached one of the two main churches in town, the Stadtkirche. Built during the 15th century in a Gothic style it features two nice bell towers to the side of the main facade. Considered as the mother church of the Protestant Reformation it is here that the first Protestant service was held here by Luther at Christmas 1521 with the first celebration of the mass in German rather than Latin and the first-ever distribution of the bread and wine to the congregation. The interior, among many other objects, holds a splendid altarpiece by Lucas Cranach the Younger. Not far from the church we then passed through the pretty main square, the Marktplatz, surrounded by nice buildings and featuring the statues of Luther and Melanchthon at its center. Continuing along the main street, we then entered a small yet nice courtyard, the Cranach-Höfe, where the painter Lucas Cranach the Elder and his son lived and maintained one of their workshops. Further on we then reached the western end of the old town where the castle once used to stand. Nowadays only part of the buildings that made up the complex is still standing, having been damaged during past wars and left to deteriorate, with only part of the walls and the castle church, or Schlosskirche left. This last church, the All Saint's Church, is the site where the Ninety-five Theses were posted by Martin Luther in 1517 to its northern doors. On-site, there is a memorial and a copy of those theses sculpted on a bronze door which was where they were originally nailed. The church though was seriously damaged by fire in 1760 during a bombardment by the French during the Seven Years' War and had to be then rebuilt. The wooden doors, burnt in 1760, were replaced in 1858 by bronze doors, bearing the Latin text of the theses and now serving as a kind of monument for protestant believers. Inside the church are the tombs of famous Reformation figures such as Martin Luther, Philipp Melanchthon, Johannes Bugenhagen, Paul Eber, and of the electors Frederick the Wise and John the Constant as well as the painter Lucas Cranach the Younger. The visit to the church was only allowed through the visit to the museum set in the former building of the castle as so we decided to skip it and continue on with our walk. Just west of the city center we then reached a cookie factory called Wikana, which we had read contained a small store where they sold all the cookies they produce. We bought several to take home with us and then decided to walk back towards the city center. We had one last stroll through the picturesque historic center and then decided it was time to head back to the train station from where we took the next train to Berlin.
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| The Wörlitz Palace |
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| One of the buildings of the landscape park, the Eisenhart |
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| The Venustempel |
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| The Floratempel |
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| The Villa Hamilton with the artificial volcano |
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| The main street in Wittenberg |
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| The Stadtkirche in Wittenberg |
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| The main square and the Stadtkirche |
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| The lovely courtyard known as the Cranach-Höfe |
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| View of the tower of the Schlosskirche along the city's main street |
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| The Schlosskirche, known as All Saints' Church |
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| The bronze copy of the Ninety-five Theses on the northern door of the church |
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| The Lutherhaus where Luther lived and taught |
On another nice sunny September weekday, I decided to do another day trip from Berlin this time heading southeast. I took then a regional train and reached the town of Guben and continued on foot. The town sits at the border with Poland where the other part of the town, Gubin is located. Once the two formed a single city but were separated into two different towns after the WWII border changes. Nowadays, the part of the town on the left bank of the Neisse/Nysa river is called Guben and in Germany, the one on the right is Gubin and in Poland. As I walked through the town on the german part i admired the nice 19th-century architecture with its elegant houses and palaces. Then I crossed the bridge over the river and entered Poland reaching what was once the old medieval town. Heavily damaged during the war, it now features some parts remaining as well as others that had been rebuilt such as the town hall. Right next to it stands the church of the Holy Trinity, the main parish church of the town. Nowadays just the skeleton of it is preserved after the bombings of the war, without a rooftop and windows but with the outer shell and the nice bell tower still intact. A plan had been proposed since the end of the war on its reconstruction, as is typical in Poland, but it was never carried out, however, things might start to move soon as I had read online. From there I then continued my walk and passed by the remains of the old town wall that once encircled the medieval settlement. The two remaining towers, the Ostrowska Towe and the Dziewicza Tower are a nice example of the 14th-century structure that characterized the defensive system of the town. Then I decided to look for a place to have lunch as it was already midday and I thought it would be great to eat in Poland once more. I found a place called Bar & Restaurant Iskra and ordered a breaded steak with potatoes and a side salad. The food was tasty and super cheap as expected and I was quite filled after it. After lunch, it was time to head back to the train station from where I took the next train taking me back to Germany and to the small town of Neuzelle. Here, I walked from the station and reached the main attraction, the Cistercian Neuzelle Abbey. The monastery was founded in 1268 by Henry the Illustrious, Margrave of Meissen, and Lusatia for the benefit of the soul of his deceased wife Agnes. Destroyed during the Hussite Wars in the 15th century and again during the Thirty Years War in the 17th century. Rebuilt after that it still stands to this day as one of the largest and most important in this area. One unexpected and amazing thing was that, since its founding and up to this day, the monastery had stayed in Catholic hands, even when the whole area around it had turned to Protestantism around 1550. This has thus created, after its last rebuilding, a beautiful Baroque architecture which is extremely rare in Northern Germany (due to Protestantism) and thus making it probably one of the most lavish and beautiful around. As I reached the monastery, I passed through the main gate and entered the grounds finding myself in front of the tall facade of the main church. I decided to visit it first and was immediately amazed as I entered. A beautiful array of Baroque decorations, sometimes heavy as they filled every nook and cranny, but nonetheless lavish and rich. Such as scene reminded me more of those typical baroque churches found in Austria or Bavaria, and was definitely surprising to see it here in Brandenburg where most were Gothic or more modern and sober. I stayed inside for a while admiring carefully those impressive details. Then, I headed out and explored the rest of the abbey's grounds. I walked around the nice Baroque garden which was recreated behind the main church and seemed like more was being added. From the garden, I then went back up to the grounds and visited the small church of the Holy Cross also featuring a beautiful Baroque decoration inside. Next to it a small walled hill, not accessible at that moment, contained what was once the vineyard of the monks that used to inhabit the monastery. As I walked around the grounds though I still noticed some monks going about their day and learned that they had come here from the Heiligenkreuz Abbey in Austria to restore the Neuzelle community. After I had seen enough of the place I decided to head back to the train station and from there take a ride to the next town Frankfurt. There are four Frankfurts in Germany, two villages and two cities. The most famous being Frankfurt am Main, and the least famous, Frankfurt an der Oder, which as the name suggests, sits next to the Oder river. This latter was the one I was visiting next, just a few minutes train ride. As with the case of Guben, Frankfurt used to span both sides of the river, however after world war II it was separated into two parts, the left bank staying to Germany and the right going to Poland and being renamed Słubice. In this case, what was once the old town remained in German hands, and that was the part I intended to visit. As I reached the city I first passed by and visited Sankt-Gertraud-Kirche. The church features a neo-gothic style so at first, I was not sure I wanted to go inside; furthermore, as I entered I noticed that the ground floor actually contained some offices and so I was soon ready to leave until I saw a sign saying the entrance to the church was up the stairs. I followed it and entered a mostly modern-looking church interior. In fact, the city of Frankfurt had been mostly destroyed during WWII and only partly rebuilt. The church I was in, having been originally built in the 14th century and then rebuilt during the 19th century in Neo-gothic style, had suffered damage too, but shortly after the war was repaired quickly. Nowadays, to the surprise of a visitor like me, it holds some really interesting pieces of art. The guardian of the church seeing me there asked if I needed some explanation; he only spoke German, and I didn't so I told him I was from Italy. He was surprised and happy and asked me, from what I could understand, why I was there and told me of his time visiting Italy. I answered I was there visiting so then he gave me some info on the objects contained there. All the objects there used to be inside the city's main church, the Marienkirche, and were transferred here in 1980 as the main church was being reconstructed; so far they haven't moved back. Inside was a beautiful chandelier dating to 1375, considered as one of the largest medieval chandeliers, the 1489 St Mary's altar, a beautiful gothic example of a wooden triptych and the late 14th-century bronze font with stories of Jesus. I was quite impressed and thanked the kind guardian for his effort to explain the history of those beautiful objects. Then, I headed outside the church and reached the Marienkirche, St Mary's church, the largest in town. Its construction started in the 13th century but was only completed around 1522. As mentioned, it had been nearly completely destroyed during the war and was restored much later, between the 80s and 90s of the last century. It is considered one of the largest Brick Gothic buildings in the country and its interior is quite empty but nice, tall, and airy. One interesting feature were the nice stained glass windows of the choir. I read on a signboard that three of them are the original gothic ones from 1370 and who were removed from the city right before the destructions. However, as the Soviet Army occupied Germany during and after the war, the stained glass windows were taken and kept in the storage of the Hermitage Museum. In 1991 the location of the stained glass was revealed by a newspaper and the city then formally asked for restitution, which was granted then in 2002. Three years later, another six panels were discovered yet again, this time in the Pushkin Museum, and finally returned to Frankfurt in 2008. After visiting the interior of the church, I then decided to walk around the exterior and admire the architecture from that point of view. What caught my attention, was the interesting bell tower, the only surviving of two which once flanked the facade, Its style was quite particular as it seemed to mix romanesque with Gothic, and it reminded me a bit of the bell towers found along the Amalfi Coast and Salerno. Particularly nice were also the two portals on the northern side of the church. Across the street from those portals, I then passed by the nice Gothic building of the town hall, which at the time of my visit was being refurbished and featured a lot of scaffolding. A little further on, I then passed by another church, the Friedenskirche, originally the oldest stone building in town but then refurbished in a neo-gothic style during the 19th century. Next to it was also a nice single nave large structure which once belonged to the Franciscan monastery and is now used as a concert hall. I was now close to the Oder river and decided to walk back along the bank and seeing the Polish part right across it. Then, I walked back through the city center and eventually to the train station where I took the next ride to the last town of the day, Fürstenwalde. This small town located along the Spree river was as many others in the area heavily damaged during the war, particularly its historic center. As I walked through the suburbs to reach the old town, I noticed some nice Wilhelmine buildings which survived the war, but then noticed the modern reconstructions as I approached the city center. The nice Gothic town hall from the 16th century was rebuilt after the war and features a nice clock tower. Not far, then the main church, St Mary's Cathedral was also reconstructed in a faithful way. Its Gothic main nave contrasts with the Baroque bell tower added a few centuries later. The church was closed so I was only able to admire it from the outside but I then found a small conical-shaped pillar which I read was supposed to be a dovecot. A sign next to it said it was made from tiles produced in the city and even contained a small dog kennel at its base. It was then time for me to go and I decided to walk along the Spree on the way back to the train station. After reaching it I then took the next train that headed finally back to Berlin.
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| The German town of Guben |
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The town and church of the Holy Trinity in the Polish town of Gubin
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| The main altar of the Abbey church |
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| The beautiful Baroque interior of the church |
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| The gardens and the church |
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| View of the side of the church |
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| The 1489 St Mary's altar in the Sankt-Gertraud-Kirche in Frankfurt |
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| The late 14th century baptismal font of the Sankt-Gertraud-Kirche |
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| The bell tower of the Marienkirche |
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| The main square and town hall in Frankfurt |
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| The town hall and Cathedral of St Mary in Fürstenwalde |
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| View of the Cathedral |
On a nice sunny Tuesday, I decided to take a day trip from Berlin and visit a few towns north of the capital. I took an early train and reached the first town of the day: Prenzlau. After reaching the town's train station I then headed out on foot and in the direction of the city center. As I approached it, I passed by the nice Stettiner Tor, one of the surviving medieval city gates, named so because facing the direction of the city of Szczecin. Next to it, encircling the northern part of the city center is the old town wall, which in this case has been well preserved and still featuring the watchtowers every few meters. In fact, Prenzlau had been heavily damaged during WWII and had lost most of its old buildings. Nowadays many had been restored or fully reconstructed while for others new typical communist-style blockhouses had been built creating a sharp, and sometimes ugly contrast in the city center between old and modern. From the northern town walls I then continued along some modern buildings until I passed by the Dreifaltigkeitskirche, or Holy Trinity Church, built between the 13th and 14th centuries but which was unfortunately closed. Just a few meters further I then reached the town's main church, the Marienkirche, or St Mary's church. Started during the 13th century it was then expanded the following century in a typical Brick Gothic style, creating a wondrous building which can be still seen today, as it had been repaired and restored after the damages of the war. It features a tall stark eastern facade with two slender bell towers to the side, and a much more ornate and beautiful eastern facade considered one of the best and most beautiful examples of Brick Gothic. The interior features a large and tall nave full of light but quite empty and austere; as I walked in it was being used for a choir rehearsal. Through a small door, I was then able to walk to the top of the southern tower, with about 234 steps leading up the 68m high structure. From there I had then a commanding view of the whole city and of the nearby Unterucker Lake. After taking a few photos I then headed back down, this time descending through the northern tower, as it was connected to the southern one by a small passageway. Once outside the church and at street level I then walked a little bit further and reached the Heiliggeistkapelle, or Holy Ghost Chapel, a nice small 14th-century church. Next to it was the Mitteltorturm, a unique Brick Gothic city gate which was also the model for the famous Oberbaumbrucke bridge towers in Berlin. From the medieval city gate, I then walked on and followed the nice promenade that runs next to the lake, which the sunny day made even more pleasant. From the lakeside, I then walked back towards the city center and through the beautiful city park that covers most of the southern part of the city. It was kept really well, with perfectly trimmed grass, nice flower arrangements, and a large diversity of plants. The edge of the park reached the southern medieval town walls and here they had decided to plant some vineyards. A plaque stated in fact that the sunny and steep slope of this side helped the growth of the vines, and apparently, they had been grown here since the 13th century by the friars of the nearby Dominican monastery. They were grown here until a severe winter which hit between 1739 and 1740 which eventually killed all the plants, marking an end to that type of industry here. However, in 2010 a revival of the vineyard was begun for the State Garden Show which then took place in 2013, and so today the vines can still be seen. From there, I then found an opening in the walls and walked back into the city, passing by the previously mentioned Dominican monastery. Its grounds and church are now used as a museum so I decided to skip visiting as I did not have the time to do so. Instead, I continued walking and passed by the nice Alte Nikolaikirche, the oldest church in town. Built in a Romanesque style during the 13th century it now just features the bell tower and part of the nave as the rest had been demolished already during the 17th century. From there I then went on and passed through the main square, which nowadays just featured modern buildings all around. Then I once again passed by the Stettiner Tor and exited the city from where I had come in the morning, heading back to the train station where I took the next train to the second town of the day: Angermünde. A few minutes train ride later, I reached the next town and headed towards the city center on foot. I passed by the southern end of the old town where a nice section of the medieval town walls has been preserved with one of the watchtowers, the Pulverturm, still standing as well. After the town walls, I then reached the Franciscan Monastery Church of St Peter and Paul, a nice single nave gothic church from the 14th century. The interior, now mostly empty, is used as an exhibition ground for modern art installations. From the church, I then continued my walk and passed through the nice central square, the Markt. At its center stands the town hall, a baroque building from the 17th century built over a pre-existing gothic one. Not much further I then reached and visited the town's main church, St Mary's church. Originally built during the 13th century it took its current form during the refurbishments that took place in the 15th and 16th centuries in a late brick Gothic style. Its interior, mostly remade in a neogothic style during the 19th century still holds some of its old furnishing and fittings. One of such is the beautiful baptismal font from the 14th century featuring 16 saints standing under arches. Another nice feature is the large baroque organ from 1744 by Joachim Wagner. After the visit to the church, i then headed back through the main square and in the direction of the city center, walking then along the Klosterstraße, one of the most beautiful in town as it sided by some picturesque timber-framed houses. Once I had reached the station it was then time to get the next train and reach the nearby village of Chorin. As I got off the train I then walked through the small village, made up of single low houses set along the main street. If it weren't for the cars parked I could have sworn I was back in time a couple of centuries. At the center of town, I also passed by the nice church, built in stone masonry during the late 13th century and featuring a wooden steeple. From there I then followed a nice trail that winded its way through the forest and eventually took me to the main attraction of the area, the Chorin Abbey. This large monastery, built during the 13th century far from any settlement, was once very powerful and control a large part of land around it. In fact, it belonged directly to the House of Ascania, the rulers of Brandenburg who had sponsored its construction and had great influence over it. However, when in 1542 those rulers of Brandenburg converted to Protestantism the monastery was then dissolved and put to various uses including serving as a livestock barn over the ensuing decades until it finally fell into disrepair. An architect from the romantic period, Karl Friedrich Schinkel, found the ruins fascinating and decided to work on restoring and rebuilding them. Nowadays the monastery holds a museum and is a popular place for cultural events and exhibitions. Once I arrived at the entrance, I paid the entry fee and went in from the southern side. I was then faced with the beautiful structure of the Brick Gothic complex, one of the most exemplative and beautiful of that style in the region. I entered the courtyard, which is closed on three sides, except the southern which was never restored and is thus open, and admired the nice arched galleries around. From the cloister, I then entered the main basilica church, which featured a large single nave structure, tall and full of light. I then continued on around the complex and entered several rooms, such as the chapter house, the cellars, and a beautiful kitchen with a main fireplace chimney at its center. Some of the rooms had some exhibited objects which were found or related to the monastery's history, such as utensils, manuscripts, or inscribed bricks. Before leaving the monastery I decided to walk around it and admire it from the exterior. Its beautiful Gothic style could be most admired when seeing the western facade, with its tall and elegant structure thought to be one of the best representatives of that style in the whole country. Right next to the monastery was a small lake called the Amtssee and before heading back to the train station I decided to walk around it following a marked trail. Once I had completed the walk around the perimeter I then finally headed back through the forest and reached the train station of Chorin where I took the next train to the nearby town of Eberswalde. The walk from the train station to the city center took a bit, passing through the modern neighborhoods of this once industrial town. The town was damaged during WWII, and that was noticeable as I reached the old town and noticed old and new architecture standing side by side. Here I walked around the small but nice city center, passing by the main church, that of Saint Madeleine, built in a typical gothic style but unfortunately closed at that time. Then I headed through the Markt, the main square, and along some nice streets with still some timber-framed houses here and there. Finally, it was time for me to head back to the train station where I maned to get the next train taking me back to Berlin just before sunset.
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| Prenzlau's medieval walls |
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| The Mitteltorturm and the Marienkirche |
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| The Unterucker Lake |
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| The apse of the St Nikolai Church |
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| The flamboyant Gothic details of the Marienkirche |
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| The walls of Angermünde |
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| Angermünde's main square |
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| The 14th-century baptismal font of the Marienkirche in Angermünde |
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| The main square and town hall of Angermünde |
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| A nice street in Angermünde's old town |
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| The Chorin Abbey |
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| The church of the Abbey |
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| The kitchens |
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| View of the church from the outside |
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| The apse of the church and part of the monastery |
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| The main street of the village of Chorin |
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| Eberswalde's main church, St Madeleine |
