Saturday, February 25, 2023

Reggio Emilia (08/01/2022)

On our last day trip from Vicenza, we decided to head to visit the city of Reggio Emilia, in the Emilia-Romagna region. The whole family joined, so it was me, Ania, William, mom, and dad. After about 1h 30 drive we reached the city and found parking right next to the cemetery just outside the old town. From there we then headed on to visit the city on foot. We walked through the pretty narrow streets filled with colorful houses as is typical in this region and happily noticed how due to its ancient roman origin the city featured an orderly simple gird plan with straight streets. We then passed in front of the church of San Giorgio, with its baroque facade, but found it closed. Continuing onwards we then reached the central and main square, Piazza Prampolini, also known as Piazza del Duomo. The square was bordered by some of the city's main monuments; to the north the Palazzo del Monte with its clock tower, to the east the Cathedral, and to the south the town hall. One very interesting thing we found was a plaque set on the wall of the town hall which read that in the nearby bishop's palace in 1797 Jozef Wybicki wrote the Mazurek Dąbrowskiego which would then become the national hymn of Poland. Here we then decided to head in and visit the Duomo, originally built in a Romanesque style but later heavily modified. The facade presented an unfinished renaissance 16th-century cover that concealed the large interior consisting of a mix of different styles, renaissance, mannerist and baroque. There were nice altars tombs and two cupolas, the main central one and another to the side. After the visit to the church, we then headed on to visit a part of the town hall which is open to the public. In fact, it is here that on 7 January 1797, the flag of Italy was born. The Italian national colors appeared for the first time in Genoa on a tricolor cockade on 21 August 1789, anticipating by seven years the first green, white, and red Italian military war flag, which was adopted by the Lombard Legion in Milan on 11 October 1796. With the descent of Napoleon into Italy, Reggio Emilia became part of the newly created sovereign Italian State, the Cispadane Republic and it was here that the first flag was seen eventually becoming the national flag of a sovereign Italian state. Like all tricolors, it was inspired by the French flag, which at the time was a symbol of freedom against the states of the ancien régime. So as we entered the building we visited the well-made and free museum, known as the Museo del Tricolore whose collection is made up of relics related to the Italian flag and its birth. The highlight of the museum though was the impressive Sala del Tricolore, a historical hall that currently serves as the council chamber of the comune of Reggio Emilia but was once designed as the archive of the ducal family of Este in 1768. It featured an oval shape surrounded by beautiful wooden balconies. It is here that on January 7, 1797, the Italian national flag was born, hence the name of the hall. After the visit, it was time to eat. We walked shortly to reach Piazza Fontanesi where we stopped at the Mangiamore restaurant to have lunch. We picked it because it served vegan and vegetarian food and I had daal with rice. After lunch we then continued the visit to the old town, walking through the nice alleyways and streets until we reached the eastern edge of the city center where the Chiostri di San Pietro are located. These are two cloisters, a small and a larger one, part of the church of San Pietro. Nowadays they are part of a museum complex that usually hosts temporary modern exhibitions, but the cloister can still be visited freely. We first walked through the small cloister, dating to the 16th century in a nice elegant renaissance style and with traces of frescoes still remaining here and there. The large cloister, which has sides double those of the smaller one, is much more scenic and grandiose and with a style that tends more toward Mannerism. The nearby church of San Pietro was closed so we decided to continue on along the main street, Via Emilia San Pietro, which once coincided with the ancient Roman road, Via Emilia which gave its name to the city and the whole region. Along the street, we saw many nice palaces and houses, probably the most beautiful and sought-after in the city. At the end of the street, we reached the small square, Piazza del Monte, with the Gothic 13th-century Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo once home to the holder of the city office of Reggio Emilia during the middle ages. Not too far just to the north, we reached the large square where the Teatro Municipale Valli, the 19th-century neoclassical city theatre was located. On the eastern side of the square, we then entered the complex of the Palazzo dei Musei, the city's museum hosted inside what was once the monastery of San Francesco. Inside we visited the large collection subdivided into different sections. We started with the beautiful atrium filled with 12th and 13th-century mosaics from the city's churches, passing through the natural history and ethnographic sections, with a small side room dedicated to animal and human malformations with many featuring two heads or other peculiar things. Moving on we saw the archaeological section, and then moved upstairs with paintings and objects from the middle ages to the modern times. After visiting the museum we then headed back through the city center and reached the Piazza San Prospero where we then visited the Basilica di San Prospero probably the most important church in the city, even more than the Cathedral. Originally dating to the 10th century it was rebuilt between 1536 and 1570 in the renaissance style. Its facade dates to a later refurbishment which took place during the 18th century with six lions sculpted in rose-colored marble from 1501 placed on the dais in front of the church and which were meant to be the base for columns of a portico that was never built. The octagonal bell tower also dates to the 16th century but looks only partly complete as its upper half was never finished. Once inside the basilica, we marveled at its simple yet solemn interior with the renaissance columns dividing the nave and the presbytery featuring the altar that contains the body of Saint Prospero. The space around and above it is decorated by a remarkable cycle of frescoes, dating back to the late sixteenth century, mostly by Camillo Procaccini. From the church we then continued on through the city, passing by the Galleria Parmeggiani a 1924 building in a neo-gothic style that hosts a part of the city museums dedicated to modern art. Not too far ahead we then visited the last main church, the Basilica della Ghiara. This large late renaissance church was built in response to an alleged miracle, that occurred in 1596, associated with a local votive image of the Madonna which soon became a pilgrimage destination. Its interior, lit up now that it was getting dark outside, featured beautiful marble and gilded decorations and fittings, particularly in the ceiling covered with precious frescoes from the 17th century. After the visit, it was finally time for us to head back to the car just as the sun was setting and eventually drive back to Vicenza.

Piazza del Duomo, with the Cathedral and the Palazzo del Monte

Piazza San Prospero with the back of the Cathdral

One of the altars inside the Cathedral


The Sala del Tricolore

A view of the cupola of the Church of San Giorgio

A close up of the cupola and bell tower of the church of San Giorgio

The cloister and church of San Pietro

Another view of the cloister

An elegant palace in the city center

The Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo

The Basilica of San Prospero

The interior of the Basilica

Piazza Gioberti with the obelisk and the Basilica of the Beata Vergine della Ghiara

The interior of the Basilica


Friday, February 24, 2023

Schio, Santorso & Thiene (22/12/2021)

After heading back for the Christmas holidays to Italy, I decided to do a day trip from Vicenza and visit a few places near my hometown on a fine sunny day. I left with my dad to the city of Schio where we had to get some snowshoes he had brought to repair. I then told him I would stay there and visit and come back home on a train later in the afternoon. I started out the visit to the city center by walking along the main street, sided by nice houses and buildings including the Palazzo Fogazzaro, built in 1810 by Carlo Barrera in the Palladian style, which now hosts the city museum. At the end of the street, I then reached the Piazza Rossi, the central and main square of Schio, where the weekly market was taking place. Vendors and passersby made it lively and colorful and to the east of the square, the imposing structure of the Duomo closed the scenic view. The Cathedral, which stands on the top of Gorzone hill, was unfortunately closed so I could only admire it from the outside. Rebuilt over a preexisting church between the 18th and 19th centuries in the Neoclassical style it looked a lot like an elevated ancient Greek or Roman temple, which was obviously the intention. From the main square, I then walked and decided to head up the nearby hill where the city castle used to stand. The fortification probably dated from the early middle ages and was dismantled in 1412 as the nearby city of Vicenza wanted to keep the territory of Schio under control. Nowadays on top of this hill, only a small deconsecrated church stands, the church of Santa Maria della Neve which dates to the 14th century and whose bell tower is the only remaining feature of the old castle. From that position, I had a good view of the old town below and the rest of the city around as well as of the mountain peaks to the west and north, including the Carega and Pasubio. Continuing on I walked further away from the old town, through the nice western suburbs filled with large and expensive-looking villas on the hills, until I reached the church and convent of San Nicolò. This small and simple church of ancient origins was entrusted to the Capuchin friars in 1536 who refurbished it between then and the beginning of the 17th century in a renaissance style. At that point I then turned around and walked back to the city center, taking a different route this time. I then reached and passed by the Lanerossi factory, founded in 1817 by Alessandro Rossi which became the largest Italian textile industry. The 19th-century building which served as the main seat and headquarters was still there, now used as a museum, and with the impressive construction in terracotta and stone of six floors known as the Fabbrica Alta right next to it, built in 1864 to serve as the main manufacturing plant. Right in front of the factory was the Giardino Jacquard, a late-Romantic English-styled garden realized between 1859 and 1878, on the commission of the industrialist Alessandro Rossi. Walking onwards I re-entered the old town and once there walked the rest of the city. I entered the small church of San Giacomo dating from the 15th century but with a facade and interior remade in the neoclassical style during the 19th century, and right close by the church of the Sacra Famiglia, built at the end of the 19th century in a Neoclassical style and in a nice circular form. Moving on I passed by the Ospedale Baratto, a palace dating back to 1611 used as a hospital until 1807, later as a prison, court, and currently as the civic library. Then past some nice city palaces, including the Casa dei Canarini, a gothic palace remodeled in the nineteenth century, characterized by the fresco decorations on its facade, until I reached the northern end of the old town where the small late gothic 15th century Santa Maria in Valle oratory was located. On a nearby hill, I then passed by the church of San Francesco, built at the beginning of the 15th century and with a nice bell tower, probably the nicest in town. Just below the hill along the main street, I then managed to visit the church of the Santissima Trinità, an 18th-century building that now serves as a military memorial, particularly for those dead in WWI. At this point I was now leaving Schio, heading north towards the town of Santorso. Along the way, I stopped at a supermarket and grabbed some food to eat later for lunch, and continued on my walk. After reaching the town I first passed by the main church, built in 1840 in a Neoclassical style. From here I started walking uphill, on the imposing mountain, Monte Summano, which towers over the town to the north. Along the road, I passed by the town's cemetery and the small church of San Dionigi, before reaching then the main monument of Santorso: the Sanctuary of Sant'Orso. As the name suggests it was this church and its saint which gave the name to the town. Located on an elevated position a quarter of the way up the slope of the mountain it dominates the town and the surrounding landscape. Originally a medieval church, the sanctuary was reconstructed in its current neoclassical style during the 18th century. Unfortunately, it was closed so I decided to sit on a bench right next to it to have my lunch. It was rather warm, especially for late December, which felt really good so I took off my jacket and basked in the sun while eating my food and enjoying the beautiful view of the plain below. Once I was done eating it was time to head back down into town. Along the way, I passed by the Villa Rossi, once the home of the aforementioned industrialist Alessandro Rossi. In 1865 he bought the renaissance villa of the Prosdocimi family and modified and expanded it to his pleasure. He also created a beautiful garden, now a public park, in the romantic style which expands around the villa and down the slope of the hillside. Continuing on through the rest of the town I then reached once again the plain below and from here decided to walk southeast towards the city of Thiene. I walked along a bicycle path for quite a bit eventually passing through the small town of Zanè which forms an urban continuation with Thiene which I then reached after. Right before reaching the old town, I passed by the church of San Vincenzo built during the 14th century in a romanesque gothic style. Unfortunately, it was closed so that meant moving onwards and reaching then the city center shortly after. Here I first visited the Duomo, built between 1625 and 1630 on a pre-existing 13th-century church and later refurbished with the addition of the side naves and the cupola at the beginning of the 20th century. The interior, large and airy, featured a nice coffered ceiling with paintings from the 17th and 18th centuries. Right in front of the Cathedral, on the other side of the small square, was the church of the Rosario which was unfortunately closed. To the north though between the churches I then admire the beautiful and tall detached bell tower of the Cathedral built in 1650. A small arched passage below it led me then to the city's main square, the Piazza Chilesotti, with at its center a lush Christmas tree and closed in its perimeter by nice buildings and houses and by the entrance to the castle. The castle, which is more like a fortified palace with crenelated towers at its corners, is known as the Palazzo Porto Colleoni Thiene and dates to the 15th century. It is known for its renaissance frescoes and its early 18th-century stables but unfortunately, visits could only be made on the weekend and so I had to continue on my walk. Nearby I reached the side of the castle palace where the oratory of the Natività della Vergine was located, built around 1476 in a late gothic style with Lombard influences and which once served as the castle's private chapel. As it was also closed I continued my visit to the rest of the city, passing by the neoclassical structure of the Villa Fabris, and the nice Venetian gothic Palazzo Cornaggia from 1470 now used as the city's library. Finally, after one last walk past the main monuments, I then walked to the train station from where I eventually took the next train back to Vicenza.

Schio's Duomo

A view of Schio's old town

The clock tower of what was once the castle

A view of the mountains from Schio

The Jacquard garden

Palazzo Fogazzaro

The church of the Santa Famiglia

The small Oratory of Santa Maria In Valle

Santorso's main church

A view of Santorso

Villa Thiene - Leder

An alleyway in the old town of Thiene

The bell tower of Thiene's Duomo

Piazza Chilesotti in Thiene

Thiene's castle, also known as the Porto Colleoni Thiene Palace

The church of the Natività di Maria Vergine

Thiene's Duomo

Wednesday, February 22, 2023

Werder & Lehnin (17/12/2021)

On another day trip from Berlin, right before Christmas, I decided to head west and visit a couple of places. My first stop was the town of Werder, located on an island surrounded by the Havel river which here enlarges to form a kind of lake. After reaching the train station of Werder, which is just outside of Berlin, I then started walking towards the city center, which took me about 30 minutes. Once there I then crossed the bridge which connects the modern part to the old town on the island. Here I started touring the small city center, passing by the Bockwindmühle, a modern replica of a windmill that must have been easy to spot back in the medieval period in the town. Behind it, on the island's highest spot, was the old town hall built in 1879 by converting an old half-timbered school. Just next to it was the church of the Holy Spirit, built in a neo-gothic style in 1858 to replace an older one. The building was closed so I continued on my walk around town. The houses were small and low as typically part of a fishermen's town. I then reached the central square the Markt, with some larger and more elegant houses around it. I toured the whole town and thought it was rather small and not as appealing as I had originally thought. Nevertheless, I crossed the bridge connecting the island to the mainland once again and then waited at a nearby bus stop to take a bus in the direction of the town of Lehnin. Before reaching the town though I decided to get off at a few stops before, right next to a large forest that borders the town. Here I wished to walk all the way through the forest and reach the town later. The trail was nice and it was quite pleasant to walk a bit in nature with the peace and quiet. Not long after I exited the forest and reached the center of Lehnin where I first decided to stop at a supermarket to grab some lunch. I then headed on to visit the town's main monument and the reason I chose to visit the place, the Lehnin Abbey. A former Cistercian monastery, it was founded in 1180 and secularized in 1542 in the course of the Reformation. The abbey played an important role in the expansion of the young Margraviate of Brandenburg during the High Middle Ages. In addition to its historical importance, the monastery is also of great cultural importance: its church is one of the most important Romanesque-Gothic brick buildings in Brandenburg, and its reconstruction and refurbishment in the years between 1871 and 1877 are considered an early masterpiece of modern monument preservation. The monastery's complex now belongs to the Luise-Henriette-Stift, a Protestant deaconesses' house since 1911. As I reached the group of buildings I started out by visiting the interior of the abbey church. Even though largely rebuilt and restructured it was still nice to see, with its simple and spacious interior divided by the romanesque naves. Inside were a wooden crucifix from 1240 and a carved wooden winged altar from 1476. After the visit to the church, I headed out and walked around the rest of the complex, past some of the main buildings such as the old gothic brick granary from the mid-14th century, and some 18th-century baroque buildings as well. I then went around the nice mix of Romanesque and Gothic exterior structure of the abbey church and entered the nice small cloister. After that, I decided to sit on a bench right in front of the church's entrance and eat my lunch despite the rather dull and gray weather. After lunch, it was time for me to head to the center of the city where I reached the small bus station eventually taking a bus back to the nearest train station, Groß Kreutz, where I took the next train to Berlin. 

A view of Werder

The old town of Werder

The town hall in Werder

The Heilig-Geist Kirche in Werder

The main square in Werder

The interior of the Klosterkirche in Lehnin

View of the Abbey church

One of the buildings of the monastery complex

Another view of the church 

The Abbey cloister


Sunday, February 19, 2023

Jüterbog & Treuenbrietzen (15/12/2021)

On another day trip, I decided to head south of Berlin and visit a couple of towns. My first stop was the town of Jüterbog; after reaching the train station, which was slightly outside, to the east of the old town, I then headed on foot towards the city center. As I reached the old town, I first stopped to visit the Liebfrauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady, built in 1161 it is considered the second-oldest surviving church in the state of Brandenburg. The large Gothic brick building was located in the middle of a cemetery and was unfortunately closed so I could only admire it from the outside. Next to the church, I passed by another small cemetery, the Soviet cemetery laid out in 1945 for those dead in the war from the Soviet countries. Just up ahead I then reached the city gate, the Dammtor, which once consisted of an outer gate, the walls, and an inner gate. Only parts of the whole gate are remaining, including the outer part, some bits of the walls, and the two towers. From there I then followed the main street, Pferdestraße, and reached the church of St Nikolai, the largest church in town. Built between the 14th and 15th centuries in a Brick Gothic style it features two twin towers with tall spires, but when I got there to visit I found it closed. I decided to try again later on and continued walking. At one point I saw a bus that was heading in the direction of Zinna Abbey, and instead of walking there as I had planned, I decided to get on the bus and save some time and walk only on the way back. After reaching the small village of Zinna, a couple of kilometers north of Jüterbog, I got off right in front of the Abbey. Founded in 1170 as a Cistercian monastery, the monastic complex still features the abbey church, the brewhouse, and the customs house, as well as some fragments of the cloisters and the guesthouse. The abbey church was nice to see, with an early Gothic pillared basilica and late Gothic vaulting. Unfortunately, the abbey and the rest of the complex were closed so I was only able to admire it from the outside. From there I then decided to head back to Jüterbog by walking along the bicycle route which eventually brought me back into town through the northern medieval city gate, the Zinnaer Tor. I then followed the perimeter of the medieval walls until I reached the eastern end of the old town where another city gate was located the Neumarkttor. Nearby I then tried visiting the church of St Nikolai again but found it still closed, eventually guessing it was just closed for the whole winter. I continued on walking and reached the central square, the Markt, with at its southern end the nice brock gothic town hall from the 15th century. To the north of the square, a couple of streets away I then passed by the structure of the Mönchenkirche, once a Gothic Franciscan monastery and now holding the city museum. From there I decided to go one last time around town this time following the whole perimeter of the medieval walls, seeing once again the city gates I had viewed previously and passing by some other parts of the walls and some towers I had not seen. It was then time to head to the station from where I then took a ride to the nearby town of Treuenbrietzen. After getting off the train, from the train station I then headed on foot and reached the old town where I decided to stop at a kebab shop to get lunch. I then ate on the way while walking around town, passing by the church of St Nikolai, a vaulted brick basilica from the mid-13th century, stylistically between Romanesque and Gothic, and featuring a tower with a baroque tip from 1756. The church was closed so I continued on along the side streets admiring the nice architecture of the houses, some of which with timber framing. I passed then through the main square which is more of an elongated wide street at the northern end of which I came upon the main church in town, St Mary. Originally dating to the 13th century, the church was built in fieldstone and brick masonry in the transitional style between late Romanesque and early Gothic with its tower added later, probably around 1452. The church was also closed so I decided to turn around and walk around the rest of the old town. Then, like in the previous town, I decided to walk around the perimeter of the medieval walls here too, following the nice path and admiring the architecture and the surrounding landscape. I passed some nice watchtowers including the 14th century Holy Spirit Chapel inglobed in the southern city gate. From there I then ended the day, heading to the train station and eventually back to Berlin. 

The Soviet cemetery and the Liebfrauenkirche in Jüterbog 

The Dammtor in Jüterbog

The towers of the Dammtor

A street in the old town of Jüterbog

The church of the Kloster Zinna

Kloster Zinna

The Zinnaer Tor in Jüterbog

The tower of the Neumarkttor

Jüterbog's town hall

The Nikolaikirche in Jüterbog 

The church of St Nikolai in Truenbrietzen


Buildings in the old town of Treuenbrietzen

The Holy Spirit Chapel inglobed in Treuenbrietzen's southern city gate