Bike tour of Alsace (28/05/2017)

Right after coming back from the trip to Lyon, the next day, as I had already planned it, I decided to do a bicycle trip of the northern part of Alsace. I started out early in the morning by catching the tram to the nearby town of Ilkirch from my dorm in Strasbourg. After getting off I had saved a few kilometers of biking and was ready to set off for the trip with my bicycle. I left around 10 and after about one hour and twenty minutes reached the first town of the day: Rosheim. I entered the town from the eastern end through the Porte de la Vierge, a fortified medieval gate. As I approached the center I started seeing more and more timber-framed house, or maisons à colombage as they are called here. I passed through yet another gate, the Porte de Hohenbourg and reached the impressive Romanesque church of Saints-Pierre-et-Paul. Built around the 12th century it is included in the Route Romane d'Alsace, or Romanesque route of Alsace, comprising several Romanesque buildings in the region. Despite having an empty interior, it features some beautiful phytomorphic and animal-like decorations typical of that architectural style. Exiting then the town at its western end I passed under the pretty clock tower or Zittgloeckel, heading on to the next town: Boersch. I fastly approached the town's eastern gate called the Tour Basse and reached the main square with the 16th-century town hall and the Eglise St Medard from the 18th century. As there was a communion taking place I decided to head on to the next destination. Fifteen minutes later I reached the town of Obernai, much larger and famous than the previous ones, meant that I started to see the first tourists. After entering its main church, the Eglise Saints-Pierre-et-Paul, I then arrived in the town's main square called the Place de la Mairie, where the Halle aux Blés, or grain hall, and the town hall are located. After cycling around the town admiring the timber-framed houses, I also circled on its outer ramparts having a view of the houses from a higher position of the town walls. Back in the center once more, I passed by the impressive Kappelturm, or bell tower, before heading out the southern end of the walls and into the countryside once again. I passed through the town of Bernardswiller and cycled through fields of cereal and vineyard covered hills. At one point I had to confront a long and uphill road which left me quite tired once completed, prompting me to sit down under the shade of a tree and consume my lunch while having a break. After the break, I was back on my bicycle and passing through the next town Heiligenstein, where I stopped briefly to cover my head with a t-shirt I drenched in water to keep it fresh from the scorching may sun, before reaching the town of Barr. Cycling through its streets filled with timber-framed houses I then continued south through more beautiful vineyards. After not much of pedaling, I passed by the town of Mittelbergheim, which set among hills filled with vineyards is listed among the most beautiful towns in France. From there a nice downhill road surrounded by more vineyards brought me to the town of Andlau, nestled in a small valley and hosting the famous Abbey built in 880 by Richardis, empress, and wife of Charles the Fat. After visiting the church built in a Romanesque style, I headed back on my way and pedaling through yet more vineyards and passing through three more towns, Itterswiller, Nothalten, and Bienschwiller, before reaching the town of Dambach-la-Ville. After entering through the Tour de Bienschwiller, due to the direction of the road coming through it, I crossed the town observing the pretty timber-framed houses, and the main church, Eglise St Etienne. After crossing biking through its winding streets, I exited the town at its southern gate, the Tour de Dieffenthal. I continued on pedaling among beautiful vineyards and two more towns, Dieffenthal and Scherwiller, before reaching the town of Châtenois. I traversed the town center and passed by the Eglise Saint-Georges, which I just glanced at while pedaling on to my next destination. I passed by the town of Kintzheim and its castle, cycled through Orschwiller, briefly pedaling through Saint-Hippolyte and Rorschwihr, before reaching the town of Bergheim. Completely surrounded by a double set of walls, the town features a nice historic center. I entered through its western gate, the Porte Haute, and traversed its center filled with timber-framed houses. I then decided to take a short break and get myself an iced tea from the closest bar to refresh myself and sit down for a few minutes. After seeing Bergheim, pedaling just a few more minutes, took me to the more famous town of Ribeauvillé. A few more tourists were to be seen around, and that led me to have to watch out for random people as I was pedaling through the town's beautiful streets filled with incredible mansions and buildings in all colors. I passed by the main sights of the town including the town hall, the Augustinian church, the 13th century Porte des Bouchers, and then reaching the western end of town at the Place de la Republique with a beautiful view towards the castle of St Ulrich perched on a hilltop overlooking the town. After pedaling back through the old center, I continued on my way heading further south. At this point I had two options, either head uphill passing by some more historic towns, one of which I had already seen when my parents had come to visit me during Easter, or head downhill along a more relaxed and direct way. I opted for the second choice and after half an hour I reached the town of Kientzheim. The Chapelle St Felix et St Regule appeared as the first sight as I approached the town. After cycling through its tight streets, I headed westwards and passed an M4A4 Sherman Tank from WWII right outside the town walls. In just less than five minutes I then reached the next town: Kaysersberg. Though filled with beautiful timber-framed houses as all the other towns so far, this had the peculiarity of featuring a small pretty rivulet running through its center which made it even more appealing. Furthermore, the nearby castle ruins right above the town invited me to take a closer look, but that meant getting off my bike and walking uphill, which I did not even want to fathom at that moment. I thus decided to visit the lower part of the town instead and after that head on forward on my bicycle. I passed the town of Ammerschwihr and then took a quick break as I found a tree ripe with cherries which I snacked on for a little bit. Then back on my journey, I passed more vineyards and the town of Katzenthal before reaching the town of Turckheim. I pedaled around the town, appreciating the houses and the medieval gates including the Porte du Brand and the Porte de Munster. Originally, I had wished to take a two day trip from Strasbourg to Mulhouse and sleep half way somewhere with my sleeping bag, however, now I was quite tired, and there weren't any important places between here and Mulhouse so I just decided to head to Colmar and take a train back home instead. After pedaling a little more I reached Colmar, which I had already seen twice, and managed to take the next train leaving for Strasbourg and be able to sleep in a bed instead of the grass that night.

The Porte de la Vierge in Rosheim

The Porte de Hohenbourg in Rosheim

The church of Saints-Pierre-et-Paul in Rosehim

Rosheim's clock tower

A street in Obernai

The main square in

The main square and Kappelturm

Street in Bernardswiller 

The countryside between Bernardswiller and Heiligenstein

Timber-framed houses in Barr

View of the town of Mittelbergheim among vineyards 

More vineyards

View of Andlau

A street in Dambach-la-Ville

City gate in Dambach-la-Ville

Even more vineyards

The Ortenbourg castle close to Chatenois

View of Saint Hippolyte 

The main square in Bergheim

Main street in Ribeauvillé

Timber-framed houses in Ribeauvillé 

Place de la Republique and view of the castle of St Ulrich in Ribeauvillé

Another street in Ribeauvillé 

The Tour des Bouchers in Ribeauvillé

Street in Kientzheim

Another street in Kientzheim 

View of Kaysersberg

Another view of Kaysersberg

The rivulet in Kaysersberg

View of Ammerschwihr

View of Katzenthal 

View of Turckehim and its valley

A street in Turckheim

The Porte de Munster in Turckheim

Another view of the town gate

The main street in Turckheim

The Porte de France in Turckehim

The town hall and main church 

The Hotel des Deux Clefs

Lousã (31/05/2015)

This day I decided to visit the really nice area near Coimbra called the Serra da Lousã. This area both historically and naturally interesting is filled with historical schist villages and nice hikes through forests in low mountains. I started my trip by taking the local bus, that is now replacing the metro line that will soon be built, from Coimbra to Lousã. The bus took nearly an hour because the road goes through small villages and up and down the hills. I eventually reached Lousã at 10 and started heading up towards the castle; 30 minutes later I reached the top of the hill and found the small schist castle probably built in the 12th century and surrounded by the forest. Close by was a sanctuary built on top of another hill and looking down towards the castle. I then decided to walk further inside the mountains and up towards the closest schist village: Talasnal. 45 minutes later I reached the top where Talasnal was located: a beautiful and small village where all the buildings and houses where built with schist stones. The village had many narrow streets passing between houses and the view from up there of the surrounding mountains was beautiful, the sunny day helped too. From there I walked another 20 minutes and reached another schist village: Casal Novo. Though smaller than Talasnal, the schist houses were as beautiful as in Talasnal however less touristy and thus less crowded since I was the only one there. Unfortunately like most of the interior of Portugal most houses, though renovated by a preservation society called the Aldeias do Xisto or villages of schist, were uninhabited and many were for sales since people prefer the coast. It was nonetheless great and nice to visit these beautiful and interesting villages hidden among the forests of the Serra da Lousã. It was time to go so I headed back down into Lousã. First I stopped at the castle again where I sunbathed while having lunch with the sandwhichesI brought, and after that I headed back into town where I took the bus back to Coimbra.

The Castle of Lousã

The Castle seen from the trail

Directions to the schist villages

The Forest and the village of Talasnal on the top

One of the streets in Talasnal

Another street in Talasnal

Street and schist houses in Talasnal

Schist houses

View of Talasnal from the trail

The village of Casal Novo

São Miguel, Azores (21-24/05/2015)

I left Coimbra with the 6:15 bus and arrived in Lisbon airport at 8:30. I didn't have much with me; I was planning to just sleep outside in the nature with only my sleeping bag and no tent, either under a tree or if things went bad at the fire station. So my plane left a really hot and sunny, though always windy, Lisbon at 10:30 and arrived in Ponta Delgada, São Miguel's main city at 12:10 local time which is 1 hour behind continental Portugal. As soon as I got out of the airport I started heading west towards Lagoa das Sete Cidades, however being it 4 hours walking distance I decided to stop and try to catch a hitchhike; after many cars and 40 minutes later a car of 2 spanish guys and 2 italian girls stopped to pick me up. Luisa, Serena, Sergio and Carlos; little did I know that they weren't just going to leave me at Sete Cidades but that they would be my companions for the whole trip. So after introductions I told them I was visiting alone, while they told me they were Erasmus students studying in Viana do Castelo. After 20 minutes and very close to Sete Cidades, we reached an abandoned hotel where we stopped and started exploring the ruined rooms and halls. Apart from it being totally destroyed with walls and ceilings crumbling, the view from it was amazing: right below us was the Miradouro da Vista do Rei, but from up here the view of the lakes was even better. Unfortunately it was very cloudy, apparently very common here, and a kind of fog/haze was covering most of the panorama, a kind of Silent Hill setting.. Still we could see the lakes and it was amazing, I can imagine with a cloudless and sunny day how it would've looked like! We got back in the car while it was starting to rain and headed down a winding road reaching the lakeside. The water looked green on both lakes, even though one is called Verde, or green, while the other one is Azul, or blue. They are divided by a nice looking bridge, and huge fish sometimes jump out of the water. We parked the car and started walking along the shore; first we took a few pictures from the bridge and the we headed around Lagoa Verde. The surroundings were beautiful and a great sense of peace lingered in the air, it felt great and the sides of the volcano all around gave it a sense of closed space.
After that we still had some time left so we decided to head towards the western coast and made a stop at the Ponta do Escalvado which had a great Miradouro overlooking the sea cliffs ad the village of Mosteiros. The sun was out and I decided to head down a little path running on top of a cliff, though as soon as I reached the edge a flock of seagulls rose up and started flying around, one came squawking really close and a second later I was covered in bird poop... apparently they had their nests there and I had disturbed them. So I went back to the car with stain all over the only sweater I had; having still some time we decided to head down to Ponta da Ferraria. We parked the car after a tremendously treacherous road and walked down to the ''sea pools''; on a board it said that since they were right above a volcanic spring on low tide the water temperature was 28 C while on high tide it was 18. Unfortunately it was high tide so the water was pretty cold, nonetheless I decided take a swim joined by the guys while the girls just stood outside. After drying out and changing back into our clothes we decided to find a place to sleep while there was still light. I told the others to just leave me in Sete Cidades but they kindly insisted I join them at least for that night. So we drove along the coast heading east to get closer to the places we would visit the next day. We reached a village called Capelas where, after looking around we found an amazing spot, right at the edge of a cliff under which huge waves crashed. After setting up the tent we headed to a local bar/café, the only one in the area, to have dinner and of course charge our phones. So we all got something to eat (I got hamburger with fries) and laughed when we heard the owner speak Portuguese with the funny azorean accent. Our phones were charged and it was time to go to sleep, when we reached the tent spot I told the others I would just set up my sleeping bag next to the tent but they told be I could fit between the tent and the tent cover that created a small area. So I set myself there deciding to keep my lower body sticking out; however a few hours later I woke up because it had started raining, so I pulled my legs back in and laid horizontally, covered by the tent cover. After a while the rain intensified and was much stronger, and I was sure I would end up drenched; however it stopped and after another light rain at around 9 we woke up. The sun was back out and I took a short walk along the cliff, with an amazing view of the coast. We dismantled the tent, put everything back in the car, and headed again towards the bar of the previous night, Bar Poços, where we had tea and sweets and charged our phones again. We then got back in the car and decided to head towards the eastern coast of the island; the drive was quite long and for most part it consisted of ups and downs and many turns. Along the road we decided to stop in the town of Ribeira Grande, where we bought bread, cheese and ham to make sandwiches for the day and where I also bought some shampoo and deodorant since I couldn't take them on the plane. Driving on we passed through the town center which looked pretty, and headed on, east. After a quick stop at the Miradouro de Santa Iria, we headed further east along the coast eventually reaching the town of Nordeste which as the name suggests lies on the north eastern part of the island. Following a road we reached a place called Moinho, where a watermill was located and where we found a small creek into which I decided to take a swim and shower. After that we got back into the car and drove south; at one point we reached Miradouro do Sossego, where we decided to have lunch. The view from there was more than amazing, my favorite spot in the whole island, It also helped that the sun was out and bright and the view of the cliffs and the blue water below was spectacular. Two cats also joined to have some of our leftovers, and after one last look of the amazing view, we got back into the car ready for the next stop. Not too far ahead, we turned left and drove down a really steep and treacherous road eventually reaching a beach we had seen from the Miradouro. The beach was empty and it had volcanic black sand which felt really nice and soft under the feet. Carlos was the only one who decided to take a while while we just walked around; when he got out of the water we noticed several jellyfish lying on the sand and saw that luckily he hadn't been stung. After hanging a while at the beach we decided it was time to head on to the next destination: Furnas. Once in the town we walked around smelling sulfur in the air and seeing all the geysers and hot springs in action, a really cool scene. We then headed on and parked the car near Lagoa das Furnas where we walked along the lakeside passing by a nice abandoned neo-gothic church and a pretty art exhibition among the trees and grass. It was getting late so we decided to look for a place to camp; luckily the town had a camping site so we went to check it out. We thought it was a good place so once inside, we set up the tent and then Carlos and I decided to eat hamburger again while the others just eat the leftover sandwiches. The next day after a hot shower (finally!) we had breakfast and went into town to Poça da Dona Beija, a really nice hot spring; the entrance was 3€, and ha 4 hot pools which were luckily quite empty of people. One also had a waterfall and the water was too hot, about 38 C, since outside wasn't too cold, between 15 and 18 degrees, and the sun would occasionally peak out from the clouds. However we really enjoyed it and since the walls were covered in sulfur we spread it on our faces. After staying and enjoying the hot water for a while we decided it was time to move on, we got back in the car and headed south and then west along the coast. After about half an hour I suggested we stop at a beach since the sun was out; so we went on towards Caloura beach. We were the only ones there apart from 2 fishermen that cough some beautiful fish and were leaving, and a couple of kids that were surfing. So we headed down the stairs towards the empty beach. The view was great and the color of the water was sapphire blue, there were many rocks in the water and as soon as I dropped my stuff on the sand I decided to climb these rocks and see if I could spot some fish. I managed to see only urchins, however Sergio suggested we jump inside a natural pool and then swim back to the beach. And so we did, even though the water was a bit cold. As soon as we got out though the sun dried us up quicky and it felt really great. We decided to explore around and walked to the beach which was right next to the one we were at. This other small beach had a cave which was  quite large and the water looked as nice as in the other beach. After hanging out for a while with some sadness we headed back to the car and moved on. We headed north and towards the inside of the island; it was sunny on the coast, but as soon as we started going up and inside, the clouds started appearing all around us. The road was crazy, with so many turns and a thick fog was falling in. When we reached the Miradouro overlooking the Lagoa do Fogo; when we got out it was quite cold with only our t shirt and swim suit still on. In addition we couldn't see much of the lake unfortunately. So we got back into the car and moved on towards the Caldeira Velha which wasn't far. Once there we paid the entrance which was 1€ for youth card holders (however the lady there at the desk let us pass with just our students card). Walking along a path towards the pools I couldn't help but think of Jurassic Park looking at all those ferns and palms and rain forest: it was amazing! We headed further up the path and reached a pool with a big waterfall. There was only a man inside while everyone else was out, we then discovered it was because the temperature was ''only'' 25 C. It was nice once we got in, and we had the pool all for ourselves. I noticed however that there were frogs all around, sitting on the sides of the pool. and probably inside too, and so the girls were scared of coming in. I then went directly under the fall which felt hotter than the pool's water itself, and was quite strong too. After getting out and feeling cold since it had started raining lightly we ran down to the other pool and past the bubbling pools that were forbidden due to the fact the temperature was at 61 C, definitely too much. This other pool which was at 38 C was full of people but we managed to find a spot and enjoy the water. After relaxing there for a while it was time to head towards Ponta Delgada and find a place to sleep. It took us a while, we went back and forth along the coast right below the airport without avail and also tried some of the villages around but all had private fields. So we decided to go eat first ad continue the search later. We went inside the mall, the Parque Atlantico, where we all had something different for dinner. I had a chicken and rice teriyaki from Walk to Wok, and then I bought bread, mortadella and cheese for some sandwiches for the next day. After dinner we searched for a camp site but it was late already and there wasn't much light. So we eventually found a public field lying right next to the Decathlon store and though it was the perfect spot. We decided to visit the city center before going to sleep, so after parking the car downtown we walked past the main square nad cathedral and ended up at the port where we sat at a bar and enjoyed a local beer. It was then time to go to sleep, so we went back to the field we had found and started setting up the tent next to a wall. However there were apartment buildings around the field and at one point we saw the figure of a man staring at us in the dark from his balcony. He said nothing and stared at us for a while, I told the other to hide; we were undecided to tell him or not we were setting up a tent afraid that he would call the police. In the end he just went back inside without a word. Once we were laid down we went to sleep but after a while I woke up because, obviously, it had started raining and the wind was blowing the rain inside the tent. After many times waking up during the night we eventually woke up at around 9 and found out we had set up tent in a field full of cows! We then decided to go have breakfast at the Parque Atlantico. It was then time for the others to leave since their flight left at 12. Right outside the mall we hugged goodbye and I thanked them immensely for saving my life, and how without them I probably wouldn't have survived the rainy nights and definitely wouldn't have seen so many things without their car. They in turn thanked me for all those places we saw since they said they had no idea what to see around the island. The night before I had also given them a few euros to cover the car gas at least saying it was the minimum I could do. So after saying goodbye I headed down walking towards the city center of Ponta Delgada. First I passed by the Iglesia do Colegio which was unfortunately closed, so I walked on and reached the Carlos Machado museum which was closed too (one part for restoration, the other until 2pm). I walked through the town streets and reached the eastern part of the city where the Ermida de Nossa Senhora Mae de Deus was located; from up there the view of the city was quite nice even though it had started raining again. Going back into town I headed to the Igreja de São Pedro which had a mass going on so I went out and walked to the Sé Catedral: the inside was very nice and a cool stop after the rain. Then onwards to the Praça do Municipio, the town's main square, passing by the Portas da Cidade. All around town it was interesting to note the architecture that was characterized by white and black stone. It was then time for lunch so I headed for the port where I stopped and ate at Burger King. After that the sun was out again, and walking on I reached the Campo São Francisco with the Convento de Nossa Senhora da Esperança and the Igreja de São José, both closed but really nice from the outside. I then went inside the Fort where the guard asked me if I was a student and after showing him my student ID, he said I could go in for free even though I wasn't a student in the Azores. The fort was quite nice and had an interesting museum of the Portuguese Colonial War (1960-1970s). After the visit it was nearly time to go but first I enjoyed an ice cream and queijadinha overlooking the port. After a 40 minute walk I was back at the airport waiting for my plane. I left at 6:30pm and reached Lisbon around 10 where I then took a bus at midnight and arrived in Coimbra, finally home, at 2am.

View of Lagoa das Sete Cidades

The Lagoa Verde

View from the Ponta do Escalvado

The amazing view from the tent in Capelas

The Miradouro do Sossego

Another view from the Miradouro do Sossego

Sulfur springs in Furnas

Church in Lagoa das Furnas

The Poça da Dona Beijas

The beach in Caloura

Fish caught by local fishermen

The Lagoa do Fogo

The Caldeira Velha

Caldeira Velha looking a lot like Jurassic Park

One of the streets in Ponta Delgada

Another street in Ponta Delgada

The Praça do Municipio in Ponta Delgada