Saturday, May 19, 2018

Bike tour of Alsace (28/05/2017)

Right after coming back from the trip to Lyon, the next day, as I had already planned it, I decided to do a bicycle trip of the northern part of Alsace. I started out early in the morning by catching the tram to the nearby town of Ilkirch from my dorm in Strasbourg. After getting off I had saved a few kilometers of biking and was ready to set off for the trip with my bicycle. I left around 10 and after about one hour and twenty minutes reached the first town of the day: Rosheim. I entered the town from the eastern end through the Porte de la Vierge, a fortified medieval gate. As I approached the center I started seeing more and more timber-framed house, or maisons à colombage as they are called here. I passed through yet another gate, the Porte de Hohenbourg and reached the impressive Romanesque church of Saints-Pierre-et-Paul. Built around the 12th century it is included in the Route Romane d'Alsace, or Romanesque route of Alsace, comprising several Romanesque buildings in the region. Despite having an empty interior, it features some beautiful phytomorphic and animal-like decorations typical of that architectural style. Exiting then the town at its western end I passed under the pretty clock tower or Zittgloeckel, heading on to the next town: Boersch. I fastly approached the town's eastern gate called the Tour Basse and reached the main square with the 16th-century town hall and the Eglise St Medard from the 18th century. As there was a communion taking place I decided to head on to the next destination. Fifteen minutes later I reached the town of Obernai, much larger and famous than the previous ones, meant that I started to see the first tourists. After entering its main church, the Eglise Saints-Pierre-et-Paul, I then arrived in the town's main square called the Place de la Mairie, where the Halle aux Blés, or grain hall, and the town hall are located. After cycling around the town admiring the timber-framed houses, I also circled on its outer ramparts having a view of the houses from a higher position of the town walls. Back in the center once more, I passed by the impressive Kappelturm, or bell tower, before heading out the southern end of the walls and into the countryside once again. I passed through the town of Bernardswiller and cycled through fields of cereal and vineyard covered hills. At one point I had to confront a long and uphill road which left me quite tired once completed, prompting me to sit down under the shade of a tree and consume my lunch while having a break. After the break, I was back on my bicycle and passing through the next town Heiligenstein, where I stopped briefly to cover my head with a t-shirt I drenched in water to keep it fresh from the scorching may sun, before reaching the town of Barr. Cycling through its streets filled with timber-framed houses I then continued south through more beautiful vineyards. After not much of pedaling, I passed by the town of Mittelbergheim, which set among hills filled with vineyards is listed among the most beautiful towns in France. From there a nice downhill road surrounded by more vineyards brought me to the town of Andlau, nestled in a small valley and hosting the famous Abbey built in 880 by Richardis, empress, and wife of Charles the Fat. After visiting the church built in a Romanesque style, I headed back on my way and pedaling through yet more vineyards and passing through three more towns, Itterswiller, Nothalten, and Bienschwiller, before reaching the town of Dambach-la-Ville. After entering through the Tour de Bienschwiller, due to the direction of the road coming through it, I crossed the town observing the pretty timber-framed houses, and the main church, Eglise St Etienne. After crossing biking through its winding streets, I exited the town at its southern gate, the Tour de Dieffenthal. I continued on pedaling among beautiful vineyards and two more towns, Dieffenthal and Scherwiller, before reaching the town of Châtenois. I traversed the town center and passed by the Eglise Saint-Georges, which I just glanced at while pedaling on to my next destination. I passed by the town of Kintzheim and its castle, cycled through Orschwiller, briefly pedaling through Saint-Hippolyte and Rorschwihr, before reaching the town of Bergheim. Completely surrounded by a double set of walls, the town features a nice historic center. I entered through its western gate, the Porte Haute, and traversed its center filled with timber-framed houses. I then decided to take a short break and get myself an iced tea from the closest bar to refresh myself and sit down for a few minutes. After seeing Bergheim, pedaling just a few more minutes, took me to the more famous town of Ribeauvillé. A few more tourists were to be seen around, and that led me to have to watch out for random people as I was pedaling through the town's beautiful streets filled with incredible mansions and buildings in all colors. I passed by the main sights of the town including the town hall, the Augustinian church, the 13th century Porte des Bouchers, and then reaching the western end of town at the Place de la Republique with a beautiful view towards the castle of St Ulrich perched on a hilltop overlooking the town. After pedaling back through the old center, I continued on my way heading further south. At this point I had two options, either head uphill passing by some more historic towns, one of which I had already seen when my parents had come to visit me during Easter, or head downhill along a more relaxed and direct way. I opted for the second choice and after half an hour I reached the town of Kientzheim. The Chapelle St Felix et St Regule appeared as the first sight as I approached the town. After cycling through its tight streets, I headed westwards and passed an M4A4 Sherman Tank from WWII right outside the town walls. In just less than five minutes I then reached the next town: Kaysersberg. Though filled with beautiful timber-framed houses as all the other towns so far, this had the peculiarity of featuring a small pretty rivulet running through its center which made it even more appealing. Furthermore, the nearby castle ruins right above the town invited me to take a closer look, but that meant getting off my bike and walking uphill, which I did not even want to fathom at that moment. I thus decided to visit the lower part of the town instead and after that head on forward on my bicycle. I passed the town of Ammerschwihr and then took a quick break as I found a tree ripe with cherries which I snacked on for a little bit. Then back on my journey, I passed more vineyards and the town of Katzenthal before reaching the town of Turckheim. I pedaled around the town, appreciating the houses and the medieval gates including the Porte du Brand and the Porte de Munster. Originally, I had wished to take a two day trip from Strasbourg to Mulhouse and sleep half way somewhere with my sleeping bag, however, now I was quite tired, and there weren't any important places between here and Mulhouse so I just decided to head to Colmar and take a train back home instead. After pedaling a little more I reached Colmar, which I had already seen twice, and managed to take the next train leaving for Strasbourg and be able to sleep in a bed instead of the grass that night.

The Porte de la Vierge in Rosheim

The Porte de Hohenbourg in Rosheim

The church of Saints-Pierre-et-Paul in Rosehim

Rosheim's clock tower

A street in Obernai

The main square in

The main square and Kappelturm

Street in Bernardswiller 
The countryside between Bernardswiller and Heiligenstein


Timber-framed houses in Barr

View of the town of Mittelbergheim among vineyards 
More vineyards


View of Andlau

A street in Dambach-la-Ville

City gate in Dambach-la-Ville

Even more vineyards

The Ortenbourg castle close to Chatenois

View of Saint Hippolyte 
The main square in Bergheim


Main street in Ribeauvillé

Timber-framed houses in Ribeauvillé 
Place de la Republique and view of the castle of St Ulrich in Ribeauvillé


Another street in Ribeauvillé 
The Tour des Bouchers in Ribeauvillé


Street in Kientzheim

Another street in Kientzheim 
View of Kaysersberg


Another view of Kaysersberg

The rivulet in Kaysersberg

View of Ammerschwihr

View of Katzenthal 
View of Turckehim and its valley


A street in Turckheim

The Porte de Munster in Turckheim

Another view of the town gate

The main street in Turckheim

The Porte de France in Turckehim

The town hall and main church 

The Hotel des Deux Clefs



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