Tom`s travels: Noli & Roccaverano (18/04/2022)

On Monday, our last day in Liguria, we decided to leave Riva Ligure early in order not to get stuck in traffic later on with all those heading back home for the Easter holidays. On the way though we decided to stop and visit the seaside town of Noli, which between 1192 and 1797 had its own Republic. After reaching the town we parked the car and continued on foot to visit the city center. We entered the old town by passing through the Torre San Giovanni a beautiful medieval tower functioning as a city gate as well. We then followed a straight street which brought us right after to the Piazza Canano where the church of St Anna is located. This nice 18th-century baroque church featured an elegant interior with models of ships that worked as ex-voto for sailors braving the treachours seas in the past. Outside the church, on the eastern side of the square, we also admired the beautiful 38m tall Romanesque tower known as the Torre dei Quattro Canti, one of the few remaining towers that once used to dot the whole city. From there a short walk then brought us to the church of San Paragorio, the first Cathedral of Noli. Listed as a national monument, it is a beautiful and remarkable example of romanesque architecture. Unfortunately, an entrance ticket was required, of 3 euros, which we paid in order to visit. Built around the 11th century over an early Christian church it features a three naved plan. Inside among the lovely decorations and fittings were a 15th-century crucifix, a pulpit rebuilt in 1889 after the church suffered an earthquake, a nice crypt below with decorated columns, and the Volto Santo, a beautifully painted 13th-century wooden crucifix known as the "Holy Face", with a sculpture of martyred Jesus in a characteristic long robe. After the visit to the church, we then walked further, passing by the church and convent of San Francesco, which was closed, and reached then the seafront promenade. The walkway was crowded while the beach was mostly empty despite the beautiful warm sun. Walking along the beachfront we had a great view of the old town and the castle built on top of the Monte Ursino overlooking the town. We then entered the city center once again, passing under the Porta di Piazza, the city gate facing the sea, and reached the small square where the 14th and 15th century Palazzo del Comune with its tall medieval tower stands. Here we followed the covered passageway which once was the portico right on the sea used by merchants and sailors for their shops and wares. We then walked further into the old town, passing through some pretty alleyways before reaching another small square where the Cathedral of San Pietro was located. Unfortunately, it was closed so we decided to continue on our walk. From here we headed slightly uphill passing another medieval tower and reaching the church of Nostra Signora delle Grazie located on a high-rise position overlooking the city center. We had a great panorama of the old town and the sea and then decided that my brother and I would continue walking uphill while my parents headed back down into town. We followed the path uphill which after a bit took us past the local cemetery and up to the top where the castle was located. The entrance was also paid and after getting the ticket we entered the small partly ruined fortification. Originally built around the 12th century together with the walls that circled the whole hill and the old town below, its current aspect is due to the makeover it received during the 15th century by the Republic of Genova. Currently only the main keep tower and part of the walls survive on top of which we had a beautiful view of the surrounding landscape. To the south is the town of Noli and its gulf and to the north the coast in the direction of the nearby town of Spotorno. After the visit to the fortification, we then followed a path leading through the Mediterranean shrub down into town where we met again with our parents in the car. We then left Noli following the road north past Savona from where we then took the highway in the direction of Piemonte. We then left the highway and followed some country roads until we eventually entered Piemonte. Here we decided to look for a place to have lunch and opted to drive a few more kilometers to reach the town of Roccaverano. By pure causality we found out my aunt and uncle were also there for lunch, having come with a couple of their friends by motorcycle. Once we found each other we were super surprised and joined them as they were finishing eating. While we waited for our table and food, my brother and I decided to explore this lovely quaint old town, which on a sunny Easter holiday was quite packed with visitors, all there at the only open restaurant. We first visited the church of Santa Maria Annunziata, built during the 16th century in a renaissance style on the design of the famous architect Bramante. In front of the church was the castle, once a large and important fortification only part of which now remains: the main front with three pointed-arch mullioned windows and the central keep tower. We climbed the latter, which was open and free, to the top of its 30 meters and enjoyed the beautiful panorama from there. The town of Roccaverano is in fact located at nearly 800m above sea level, making it the highest town in the province of Asti. The view was incredible, with hills and forests all around, dotted here and there by some small towns with their castles or tall church bell towers. It was then time for lunch so we headed back down and sat to eat the nice meal, a platter of local cold cuts and cheeses, including the Roccaverano Robiola cheese, and a pasta dish with meat sauce. After lunch and saying goodbye to my aunt and uncle we then drove to the nearby isolated church of San Giovanni Battista which featured an interesting cycle of 15th-century frescoes inside. Finally, after one quick stop at the nearby town of Monastero Bormida with its picturesque old town located by the Bormida river and its medieval bridge, we then drove on home to Vicenza, happy after a beautiful weekend in Liguria with fantastic weather.