Tom`s travels: Via Francigena (16-22/07/2018)

After our hike from Siena to Rome in 2016 along the Via Francigena, my brother and I decided to take another leg of this pilgrimage, this time in its first part from the Great St Bernard Pass to Santhia. We asked our cousin, Giovanni, who accepted after a bit of convincing. After leaving Vicenza, and sleeping one night in Alessandria at our relatives´ house, the next morning our aunt and uncle kindly drove us all the way to the Great St Bernard pass where we would start our hike. We first decided to see the Great St Bernard Hospice, a historical hospice located in Switzerland which was used since early times by pilgrims and travelers alike and set at an impressive altitude of 2469m above sea level. After my brother and cousin bought their pilgrim credential inside (i used my old one) we exited the building and started noticing some dogs being carried around on leashes. We noticed that they were all belonging to the same race, St Bernard: it is here in fact where they are raised. So after waving goodbye to our aunt and uncle, we set ourselves to start our hike. We circled the small lake set right next to the hospice, where I even put my feet and legs in to test the extremely cold water and crossed then into Italy. From there the whole way was now downhill, with impressive views over the surrounding Pennine Alps. After a bit of walking through nice areas patched with flowers and small rivulets, we reached the Don Angelo Carioni House, a pilgrim hospice, and the first coming into Italy. We continued on still heading downhill, and the first trees started to appear as we reached an appropriate height for their growth. We crossed a road and then entered the small village of Saint-Rhémy-en-Bosses where we had a small break to eat our lunch. After the brief stop, we continued on through the small hamlet and gave a look at its 18th-century church of San Lorenzo. A bit later we reached the slightly larger village of Saint-Leonard-en-Bosses. here we gave a brief look at the 19th-century church of St Leonard and the Bosses Castle, which stands right next to the church. It is more of a single keep tower and dates between the 14th and 15th centuries. Further on we passed the small hamlet of Cerisey, which consisted of a few sparse houses, and then through the village of Saint-Oyen with its castle called Château-Verdun. The castle which served as a defensive structure was used as a hospice for travelers and nowadays serve the same function. Not much later we finally reached our destination for the day: the town of Etroubles. We first decided to head to our accommodation, as we had booked a place at the Campground Tunnel. Once there, we were given one of the small wooden huts which barely fitted the three of us but was quite cool nonetheless. We even had a pool in the camping which I immediately tested despite the slightly chilly temperature which had come as the sun was now covered by clouds. After taking a shower, washing our clothes and hanging them on the clothesline, we were now ready to explore the old town. Part of the club the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy, Etroubles has a characteristic center filled with beautiful stone houses featuring wooden beams. We walked through its pretty medieval streets filled with flowers hanging from balconies and set on the side inside pots. We also had a look at the main church of Santa Maria Assunta dating to the beginning of the 19th century with the bell tower dating from the 15th century which used to belong to the previous church. We then decided it was time for dinner, and as my brother really wanted to eat at a restaurant we decided to look for one. Having there just about three in the whole town we opted for the one in the Hotel Col Serena, where I had a fonduta, or fondue, with bread. Being in the mountains and in a quite touristy town, the prices were quite high and the food did not fill me up much. After dinner, we went back to the camping where we then later went to sleep ready for the next day of walking.
The following morning, after a difficult rise up from the pain of the walk, we got our stuff and left Etroubles. We first passed by the small hamlet of Echevennoz and then walked through a nice forest which covered us from the already hot weather. Along our path, we were sided by a typical Ru, a water canal which is exclusive of these areas and which served since the middle ages to bring water from the many rivers to areas where the water was not present due to the fact these mountains are very dry compared to other parts of the Alps. Along the way, we also encountered some cows which were herded by a shepherd. Two barking dogs were following him as well as an unlikely pair of goats. After reaching an opening in the forest we had an incredible view of the Pennine mountains and took a few photos. Later on, we reached again some buildings, and then the church of Sant´Ilario in the town of Gignod with its nice medieval frescoes, and dating to the 15th century. A few streets down we then admired the Gignod Tower, a surviving medieval tower which used to be one of many located in the valley to guard the entrance from the north. From there on the way was mostly on asphalt and on sidewalks, until we finally reached the city of Aosta. As we headed to the Airbnb we had booked, we stopped at a large supermarket where we bought food to make lunch, dinner and for breakfast the next day. After checking in, we quickly showered washed our clothes and then made a nice lunch with gnocchi, salad, and fruit. Finally an appetizing and filling meal. After lunch, we decided to explore the city, while Giovanni chose instead to stay home and relax. After walking along the main street reached the Porta Pretoria first, one of the best testimonies to the Roman past of the city. It once used to be the eastern entry gate while now stands nearly at the center of the city. Built in 25 B.C.it is considered as one of the best preserved Roman gates and features two arches with the road running below them. Around it are medieval stone buildings which were built on top of parts of the gate. Not far ahead we then reached a small square where the Basilica of San Lorenzo and the Collegiata di Sant´Orso are located. The former was closing and had an entry fee while the latter was still open so we decided to visit it. Originally dating to the 9th century in the Ottonian style, a bell tower was added in the 12th century and refurbishments were made making the church mainly in a mix of Romanesque and Gothic styles. The interior reflects the styles perfectly and presents some nice preserved frescoes. However, the main part of the church is actually the cloister which we then proceeded to visit. Built during the 12th century in the Romanesque style, it features beautiful columns with an iconography representing scenes from the old testament, stories from the life of St Ursus, but also animals, mythological creatures and so on. 37 of the original 52 capitals are there with an additional 3 added later in the 18th century. Once back out we then continued walking through the city center and reached another roman monument: the theater. Unfortunately, as it was part of an archaeological site the entrance required a ticket and the booth was closing down, however, the kind sir manning it allowed to give a quick look inside for free. Built around the same time as the Porta Pretoria, it still features the cavea, where the people sat and the southern facade. After thanking the man at the entrance we headed out and passed through the large Piazza Emile Chanoux, the main square of the city. A little further on we then reached another square, the Piazza Papa Giovanni XIII, with the Cathedral which we entered as it was still open. Originally built in the 4th century, it was then replaced by an 11th-century church which later modified in the 15th and 16th centuries. The interior was, in fact, a mix of all styles and presented some nice remains of the original structure including the crypt, two beautiful mosaics, and some frescoes. After we exited, we admired the 16th-century facade which was crowned by a larger facade from the 19th century. Walking on we gave a quick look at the small church of Santo Stefano with a painted facade and a beautiful Baroque altar inside. Then walking through the old town we encountered the Croce di Città, a cross set in the middle of a street during the 16th century as a memorial to the Calvinists who were kicked out of the region in that period. A little further on we then reached the southern part of town where the walls encircle the old town, as in other parts of the city. This is where the Castle of Bramafam used to stand, now just a tower with a part of the walls remains and testimony to the structure. From there we followed the walls and passed by the Leper´s Tower and the Tour Neuve which flank the remains of the Roman walls. We were now close to our Airbnb so we decided to head back and have dinner and relax before going to bed,
The next day, after an early wake-up, we walked through the city center once again and passed by the impressive Arch of Augustus, yet another testimony of the Roman city, which was built in 25 B.C. to commemorate the victory over the Salassi, a Celtic tribe which used to inhabit the area. Just ahead we then crossed over a stone bridge, known as the Roman bridge, also built in the same period and which allowed the crossing of the small Buthier river, now completely dry in this point. We were now leaving the city of Aosta and heading east along the valley with the same name. After walking uphill among some nice vineyards we then reached the isolated church of Saint-Cristophe, with a Baroque structure but with the bell tower dating to the 13th century. After a while, we then reached the Castle of Quart, which was unfortunately closed for renovation. We nonetheless enjoyed a small break under the cover of the trees and set ourselves to walk further. At one point we encountered a forking, and I decided to take the left path leading uphill while my brother and cousin took the right one leading down. I told them to go ahead and that I would be fast, thinking that by taking the left one I would have a nice view. I was, in fact, right, and I reached a spot where I could clearly see the castle from above with the beautiful mountains in the background. Then I ran back down and rejoined the others, and continued on. After walking along a nice path between open areas and forest we eventually reached the town of Nus. From there we decided to take a small detour from the Via Francigena, and crossing the Dora Baltea River, reached the small town of Fenis, where the famous castle is located. As we reached the building, we had to wait a few minutes before the tour to visit the interior could start, so we decided to eat some sandwiches we had bought in the previous town. The castle was built around the 14th century in its present form and it is one of the best preserved in the whole of Italy. Unlike other castles of the area which are built on top of inaccessible or easily defensible points, this was built on top of a small mound in a mostly flat area confirming the fact it was not just a defensive structure but rather a structure to show prestige. Our tour was beginning and we joined the small group which formed and led us inside the building. The castle is surrounded by two series of walls all supported by watchtowers and the main keep at its center. After walking through the courtyards we entered the keep proper and started our tour of the rooms. The rooms were very nice, and despite a lot of the furniture was a copy or came from another location there were also some originals. Furthermore, there were beautiful frescoes such as those in the chapel, and those on the walls of the small interior courtyard which have been perfectly preserved thanks to the mountain weather. As we finished our tour we descended down the courtyard and admired the beautiful staircase with a large fresco representing St George and the dragon above; along the walls and behind the wooden beamed terraces are frescoes of figures with proverbs and morals written in French. After setting ourselves back on the track we walked further, crossed the river once more and rejoined the Via Francigena in the town of Chambave. We walked uphill again and took a narrow path on the edge of the mountain which led past some groups of abandoned stone houses. After a bit, we finally reached the town of Chatillon, our base for the night. As we had found no pilgrim accommodation we had to book in a hotel, the Hotel Rendez Vous, though it turned out to be extremely great as we had a whole room for ourselves with a wonderful private bathroom which seemed such a luxury in such circumstances.
The following morning after waking up and getting ready we decided to buy some food from a nearby supermarket. Then from there, instead of following the Via Francigena which would take us back to the town center and up the mountain, we decided to cut directly to the next town which was very close to where we were buying the groceries. We thus reached the town of Saint-Vincent, famous for its hot springs, and gave a quick visit at the main church which featured a nice Romanesque structure and preserved medieval frescoes in its interior. After that, we exited the town and rejoined the Via Francigena, which after a few minutes took us to the incredible roman bridge of Saint-Vicent. Relatively well preserved, it was in use until 1839 when, unfortunately, probably caused by an earthquake, the main arch fell down. We walked then through some small villages made up of pretty stone houses and walked through some small patches of forest until we reached the small hamlet of Saint-Germain. From here we could see a tower jutting out from the top of a hill so we decided to head towards it. We passed by the local church which was closed and left our bags before heading further up to see the tower. A gate and fences blocked the way, signaling the place was inaccessible due to natural damage. I climbed it and told the others to follow, and then started to explore the ruins of what was once the Castle of Saint Germain. Most of the walls were still standing, as well as the main tower of the keep. Furthermore, from the southern side, an incredible view opened up towards a large valley where the Dora Baltea flows and the highway towards Piedmont runs. After exploring the castle, we headed back down, took back our bags and continued walking. We passed on a part of preserved Roman road which was sided by a nice setting with vineyards and views over the valley. We then reached the town of Montjovet where we decided to rest in the shade of the main church. After relaxing and eating lunch there we then continued on and had to climb yet another hill. Another hill meant another great view, this time with our final destination for the day in view: the town of Verres. After finally reaching the aforementioned town, we headed to the Collegiate Church of Saint Gilles which was going to be our accommodation for the night and the only real pilgrim one we had on the rip. After calling the priest and waiting, we left our luggage on the bunk beds and met other pilgrims which were staying there. Then we decided to head out to explore while our cousin chose to stay in and relax. We first decided to visit the church itself, which was built around the 10th century but later modified often presenting thus a mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque features. Then we decided to climb a nearby hill and visit the impressive Castle of Verres. Unlike many castles, this one was built as a single defensive cubic structure and doesn´t feature any decorative elements. being it dedicated solely to defensive purposes it was never conquered since its construction in the 14th century, and just slightly modified in the following centuries. As we entered we were able to get the last tour of the day which meant that my brother and I were the only visitors there. The structure features an enclosed courtyard with a large staircase leading to the upper floors. All around the courtyard are the rooms which in their present form are bare of furniture as none survived to this day. However, it was still impressive and gave a way to concentrate more on the structure which was the most important part of the castle. After the visit, we went back down into the town and looked for a place to have dinner. We opted for the Ristorante le Due Valli, and the three of us satisfyingly filled up our bellies; then we were ready to head back to the church and sleep.
The following day, waking up after everyone else, we headed to the next town: Issogne. As it was quite close, we just had to exit the town, cross the bridge over the river and reached the main attraction, the Issogne Castle. After buying the ticket and following our tour guide, we entered the premises, with just the three of us as participants. This castle was the complete opposite of the one we had visited the previous day; if the other was built for solely defensive purposes, this was built for residential reasons. On site of its location used to be a Roman villa, which was built over during the 14th century by a Gothic residence then turned into a Renaissance one the following century. We first went through the main courtyard, in the typical Renaissance fashion with arches all around it and a beautiful 16th-century pomegranate tree made out of iron. Under the southern arches are a series of perfectly preserved frescoes depicting with realism and humor daily life scenes and trades of the period. One of these lunettes even presents the oldest depiction of the typical local cheese Fontina. We then entered the castle proper and started touring the many rooms, which were furnished with 19th-century furniture in the fashion of the Renaissance style. We walked through the large kitchens, the rooms for guards, maids, and then up to the first floor where we saw the main living quarters. We also had a look at the chapel and then up to the second floor where more rooms were located as well as one with nice frescoes of imaginary landscapes. A particular thing throughout the castle was the impressive, interesting and sometimes funny graffiti found on the walls of rooms, on the staircases and even on the exterior loggias. After the visit to the castle, we thanked our guide and continued our walk, eventually reached the small sparse town of Arnad. Here we briefly stopped to take a look at the church of St Martin, a perfect example of Romanesque architecture dating between the 11th and 12th centuries. As we were quite hungry, we then decided to look for something to snack, and being in the town of Arnad decided to try the local delicacy, the Lard d´Arnard, a cured pork product which we enjoyed in a sandwich at a restaurant on the way. We explored a bit of the old part of the town with its typical stone houses and then continued on reaching another crossing over the Dora Baltea. The only way across was over a beautiful 18th century stone bridge which was recently restored and provided an interesting way to the other side. Traveling further we then reached the town of Hone, with the bell tower of the church of St George leading us the way into the center. We could now easily see the impressive Fort Bard, which we had already spotted in the distance already since the morning. We walked through the small town called like the fort, Bard, below it with typical stone houses and then started our ascent of the hill on top of which the fort is located. Comprising of a series of structures, despite having there been a defensive structure since the early times, what is shown today is a full reconstruction which took place during the 19th century by the House of Savoy to control access through one of the main entry points into Piedmont. Entrance to the fort was free, and the paid part related to the museum of the Alps which is hosted inside but we decided to skip due to not having much time. We crossed the complex and descended from the opposite side towards our destination. At one point the normal path turned into a familiar rocky road, which we discovered being the old Roman road which used to run through the area. Due to the rocky morphology, the Romans were able to cut through the stone with a perfectly straight line and make the passage through the valley much easier and safer. At the end of it we walked through the small town of Donnas, and then for a couple of kilometers walking along the sidewalk of a busy road until we reached our destination, Pont-Saint-Martin. Our accommodation was located in the southern part of the town, so we had to walk through the old center to get there. Of particular interest was the impressive Roman bridge, spanning the Lys river and built during the 1st century B.C. and still in use today. We continued on and finally reached the accommodation which was provided by the town municipality. The three of us got a room together and immediately went to shower, wash our clothes and so forth. Then as we were hungry we deiced to look for a place to eat. As it had started raining and we were quite tired, we opted for a pizzeria located not too far next to the train station.
The next day we got up and started our walk under a cloudy sky. Luckily the path was right next to our sleeping place and thus started our daily walk to the next destination. A few meters on and we were crossing over into the region of Piemonte. Despite the weather, the way was extremely beautiful passing through and among some typical vineyards supported by pillars which are locally known as "topie". We walked through the first town across the border, Carema, surrounded by vineyards and with typical stone houses. We passed two small hamlets, Torredaniele and Cesnola, before reaching Settimo Vittone. The way went uphill following a partly dried out rivulet, which was set in a nice setting of vineyards and stone houses. At the top, we then encountered the Pieve di San Lorenzo, a beautiful rural church built during the 9th century in the Pre-Romanesque style. This used to be an important stop for pilgrims along the Via Francigena, and we obviously thought of giving it a look. The gate was however closed, but to our luck, a middle-aged man was standing next to the entrance while talking on the phone. As he saw, he stopped and asked if we wished to see the interior, joyfully we accepted and entered the premises. The structure was composed of the small church and the annexed baptistery, which was as large is size, due to the fact that once most inhabitants were not baptized and thus could not enter the sacred ground without prior baptism. Thus the need to built baptisteries closes to churches, like the beautiful examples in Emilia Romagna and Tuscany. As we entered the structured we admired the nicely preserved frescoes dating mostly from the 12th to the 15th century. After the visit we thanked the man and left the place noticing other people who were coming in, leading us to think the guy had been waiting for them to guide them. After a bit of walking through more vineyards, we passed an area with open fields and a nice group of sheep until we then reached a narrow path cut through the rock in which an abandoned stone building was set. It was dark and eerie and we approached slowly, finally exiting from the other side. We were not on top of a rocky outcrop and could easily see the wide valley down below us. Apparently, the rocky outcrop we were standing on top of was a popular site for rock climbing, as we saw a few people right below us. Descending down towards the valley we then passed by the private castle of Montestrutto and the abandoned church of San Giacomo, built during the 11th century. The landscape had now changed, devoid of vineyards and covered instead with extensive fields. Furthermore, the typical stone architecture we had found until then, was now replaced by the more typical Piedmontese buildings with red rooftops. We then walked through the hamlet of San Germano and then through the town of Borgofranco d´Ivrea with the bell tower of the main church serving as a city gate, and then reaching the town of Montalto Dora. Here we had to take a path leading uphill once more and passing through a wooded area filled with lakes. We passed right below the Castle of Montalto Dora and reached the pretty Lago Pistono, one of the lakes, and stopped there to have lunch. We chose a nice spot along the bank with a view towards the castle on top of a hill. As we finished eating it then started to rain, so we decided to put on our raincoats. After walking through the forest we then reached the outskirts of Ivrea, the largest city in the area. It had stopped raining and the sunshine was beginning to peer out from among the clouds. We took a bit of food from the supermarket and then continued our walk towards the city center. We reached the Piazza Castello located on the upper part of the city where we had an incredible view over the old town,, with its typical red rooftops. behind us stood the Castle, built in the typical red brick of the area during the 14th century and surrounded by tall towers at each of its corners. The entrance was not open as it can only be visited during special occasions, so we decided to walk to the other side of the square where the cathedral is located. Originally built around the 10th century, it was then modified in later centuries particularly in the Baroque and Neoclassical styles giving its present aspect. In fact, if most of the structure is in the latter style, there are still some parts dating to the earlier building. The bell towers and the partly ruined cloister are Romanesque features which can be seen from the exterior while the interior still features the apse, chorus, and crypt from that period. After admiring the main nave with rich decorations we headed towards the apse and down the crypt where we admired the frescoes which were still intact. After exiting the cathedral, we then headed downhill and reached the central Piazza Ferruccio Nazionale where the Palazzo di Città, or town hall, is located and dating to the 18th century. We then crossed the old town along the central Via Arduino and reached the western part of town where, due to its perfect spot on a curve of the Dora Baltea which created waterfalls, the annual canoeing world championship was taking place. We, in fact, had tried to book the accommodation here in Ivrea, but due to the competition had to opt to a town a few kilometers further. As we watched the competition for a while we then decided to cross the river and head to the other side to explore further. The crossing was done over the so-called Ponte Vecchio, originally a Roman bridge it was then rebuilt during the middle ages and again in the 17th century until it took its present form during the 19th century. As we reached the other side, we entered an area called Borghetto comprising a group of older buildings which sprang up thanks to the proximity to the bridge. Not much further we then reached an area which had just recently been inscribed in the Unesco World Heritage List. During the beginning of the 20th century, the entrepreneur Camillo Olivetti found a society which he named as his last name that gradually became world famous for its typewriters and electronics. From there all along the mid 20th century, particularly in the 50s, the company grew and it was decided that a whole neighborhood would be created to accommodate both the company´s buildings as well as the residences of the workers. So with an advanced design and planning for the area, such an area was built and which had, at the time of our visit then become a Unesco site for its social project to involve all aspects of the company life. After the visit to that area, we were finally ready to head out of the city and in the direction of our accommodation. After a few kilometers of flat ground, which were incredibly long for out extremely tired legs, we reached the town of Burolo where would be spending the night. The town was however on top of a hill and thus we had to climb all the way up to the top. There we entered a large building right in front of the main church which is used by school groups for activities and serves also as a pilgrim accommodation. The place was huge and just an Italian and a South American lady were living there. The hosted us in and showed us the rooms, the bathrooms and the rest. They then told us to leave the offer for the stay in the post box and asked us if we had eaten. We told them, unfortunately, we hadn´t so they called an old man who drove to a nearby town, as the only restaurant in the town was closed and got us pizza. We ate it in the courtyard and then headed back up to get ready to sleep.
The following day after a good night sleep despite the eerie feeling of such a large and dark place for just the three of us, we got an early start for the next leg of the walk. From the top of the town we had slept in we could clearly see the geography of the area which is formed by a moraine in the form of an amphitheater. We were standing at one of the edges of it and would descend down to its lower parts. After a little bit of walking, we passed by the church of Santi Pietro e Paolo in the small hamlet of Pessano. It was built probably between the 10th and 11th centuries and holds frescoes dating to the 15th century in its interior. Unfortunately, it was only open during the afternoon so we simply admired its exterior. As we passed it, a swarm of mosquitoes, easily visible was roaming in the area so we decided to walk quickly before being eaten alive. We then walked through the town of Palazzo Canavese and reached then a few kilometers later the town of Piverone. We stopped at the main square where a medieval brick gate still stands and decided to get some pastry from a local bakery to eat as breakfast. After a quick rest, we continued on and passed the main church which was closed. We were now walking on open fields surrounded by vineyards and great views. At one point in an isolated setting, we encountered the ruins of a church, known as the Gesiun. Built during the 10th century it was used as a rural church and as the populations of the area moved to settle elsewhere was left to ruins. Despite its state, it is still a great example of Romanesque architecture of the area. Continuing on we started to spot in the distance a silhouette of a lake, peering out among the vineyards. Being at a higher altitude we could easily spot the banks of it surrounded by the hills and headed in that direction. We passed through the town of Viverone and headed down towards the lake with the same name. Here we walked along the shore admiring the vegetation and fauna present there. Then we reached a part which had a nice shoreline filled with hotels and places to eat and decided to order something to eat. In the meantime, I also decided to take a quick swim in the lake before the arrival of our food. The sun was quite strong so I did not feel cold despite the slightly chilly water. After lunch we were back on track and heading on, reaching the small town of Roppolo not long after. We climbed a hill and reached its top where the Castle of Roppolo is located. From here we had an incredible view of the moraine and the lake of Viverone. We thought about visiting the castle, but as the visit was only through a guided tour which would only start an hour later we opted to skip it and continue on. After crossing through a forest we came out in view of the first houses of Cavaglia. We crossed through the city center, passing by the large church of St Michele and then detouring a few hundred meters to see an interesting and unexpected circle of Menhirs right next to the main road probably dating to 4000 B.C. We continued on and stopped to give a look at the church of Santa Maria di Babilone, which was unfortunately closed, but featured a nice Baroque exterior. From here the way was straight, flat and quite boring as we walked sided by corn, soy, and wheat fields all the way to the next town and our final destination: Santhia. We were rather tired and had walked the most kilometers in a day, for a total of nearly 40km, and so when we finally reached the Collegiata di Sant´Agata at the center of the city we were extremely relieved. We gave a quick look at the interior which was mostly rebuilt in the neoclassical style but still featured a Romanesque crypt and bell tower. Our aunt and uncle had decided to come and pick us up, so we found them waiting for us at a bar on the main square. After the ritual photo in front of the church, we got in the car and headed back to Alessandria ready to have a good rest.