Sunday, June 16, 2019

Soave (10/07/2018)

Together with my brother, we decided to do a day trip to the town of Soave located more-or-less halfway between Vicenza and Verona. We thus took a train to the city of San Bonifacio and then started walking towards the destination. We stopped to admire the Abbazia di San Pietro di Villanova, a Romanesque abbey originally built in the 7th century. The doors were closed so we just had to admire it from the outside. The present form of the church dates to the 12th century and presents a large bell tower which we circled and took pictures of.  From there we then continued on passing under the highway and finally approaching the first houses of the town of Soave. We reached and entered the small church of San Giorgio dating probably to the 11th century. The interior, though quite small had some traces of medieval frescoes and an interesting large bone hanging from the ceiling probably coming from a whale. After exiting the church we walked along the impressive medieval walls of the city, one of its most famous landmarks. We then entered the old town through the southern gate, Porta Verona, built during the 14th century. We walked along the main street and reached the Palazzo di Giustizia, built during the 14th century and serving as the building where the city governor used to stay. From there a narrow street leading uphill took us to the castle entrance, where we bought the ticket and entered. Probably built during an early period, its current form is thanks to the refurbishments made by the lord of Verona, Cansignorio della Scala, who, during the 14th century also built the walls we see around the city today. After several centuries of military use, it was then not suitable for modern warfare and was thus sold and turned into a farm. During the 19th century, the then mayor of Verona bought the partly ruined castle, refurbished it and turned it into a private residence. The structure of the castle is made up of the main keep with a small courtyard surrounded by walls, then another larger courtyard with another set of walls. We first passed through the exterior courtyard and then through a small door entered the smaller interior courtyard. At its center is an old well which served as cistern and next to it the refurbished captain´s house with a beautiful staircase leading to it. We climbed it and visited the rooms which contained copies of medieval furniture. We went up another staircase and reached the walls from where we had a great view of the city below. Then up to the top of the keep´s tower where we could see the whole complex of the castle and the town with its walls right below. After enjoying the scorching sun and view from there, we descended back down in the town and entered the church of San Lorenzo, which was open. Originally dating to the city´s foundation it was then rebuilt due to its small size, in a Baroque/Neoclassical style between the 18th and 19th centuries. As we were getting hungry, we found a Panetteria close to the church where we had a slice of focaccia and pizza and ate it while sitting on a bench right outside Porta Verona. After lunch, we got back on our feet, crossed the old town again and exited the northern gate, Porta Aquila. We continued walking, past the church of San Rocco, built during the 15th century and then up a hill. From there we had a great view of the castle in the distance, and all around us beautiful green vineyards. We walked further, passing hills full of more vineyards and taking beautiful countryside paths. After a bit of walking, we finally reached the first houses of Monteforte d´Alpone. We could easily spot the high bell tower of the main church, which we always see while driving on the highway from Vicenza to Verona. Once we reached the church, we admired its facade, built during the 19th century in the Neoclassical style. Next to it stands the Bishop´s Palace dating to the 15th century, with a small loggia featuring traces of medieval frescoes. From there we finally headed on walking and after a few kilometers reached the train station of San Bonifacio once more where we took a train back to Vicenza.

The Abbazia di San Pietro di Villanova

Street in Soave

The castle walls

One of the rooms inside the captain's house

View of the keep and the courtyard

View of Soave from the top of the keep

A countryside road close to Soave

The church in Monteforte d'Alpone

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