After deciding where to spend a couple of weeks on holiday, Ania and I settled on visiting Sicily for about two weeks. So after booking our flights, we on flew on the 25th, with me arriving from Treviso about two one hour earlier than Ania. So after both of us had landed, we saw that unfortunately after midnight no buses were heading from the airport to the city, so decided to just walk it instead. It was quite a way and took us nearly one hour and fifteen minutes, but we eventually reached the Airbnb we had booked. As we rang the ball, a kid came to open and told that his mom was not home, however, the room was ready, showed us the house and then left us the keys. The house was quite nice, and our room too, consisting of an elevated double bed with a sofa below it. However, we found out during our stay, the temperature was extremely hot as with open windows a street light was shining directly on us and with closed windows meant no air circulation. Nonetheless, after a sweaty sleep, we woke up the next day and decided to head and explore the city. In a few minutes walking, we reached the square, Piazza Vicenzo Bellini, with a nice fountain at its center and the Neobaroque 19th-century opera house, the Teatro Massimo Bellini at its western end. We then visited the nearby Chiesa della Badia di Sant´Agata, built during the 17th century in the Baroque style, which contained and nice and simple interior. Right in front of it stands the large Cathedral which we then proceeded to visit. A church was originally built on top of a Roman temple, during the period in which the Normans were ruling over the city and the island. Due to the city´s location next to the Etna volcano and a rift line, the area was hit by many earthquakes during the centuries, and particularly that which occurred in 1693 destroyed most of the buildings including the old cathedral. Thus a new building had to be erected on its spot and the Baroque building which can be seen today was the result of that. The interior was rather simple, particularly the main nave, though the side chapels were richly decorated. The only surviving part of the original church was the apse which was used as a base for the Baroque construction. Once outside we walked around the picturesque Piazza del Duomo with its many splendid Baroque buildings. In the center of the square stands the beautiful and interesting Fontana dell´Elefante, built in 1737. It features a most unique statue of an elephant made of black basalt stone typical of this volcanic area. After we admired the beautiful facade of the cathedral we then headed on and crossed Piazza Universita, named so because of the city's university. Similarly to the other square, the buildings here are also in the Baroque fashion being built after the terrible earthquake. We took a look at the courtyard of the University Palace, with features some beautiful arches. We were then walking along the city´s main street, the Via Etnea filled with people and popular shops. Three-quarters of the way up we entered another Baroque building, the Chiesa dei Minoriti with a simple interior. A little further we reached the Piazza Stresicoro, where after descending a series of steps, we entered the remains of what used to be the Roman Amphitheatre of the city. probably built during the 2nd century A.D. Only one-quarter of its full structure is revealed, while the rest is still hidden under the street. After the visit to the ruins, we headed towards the bus station where we took a bus in the direction of Caltagirone, a town famous for its ceramics set about southwest of Catania. As we arrived and started to head towards the city center on foot, we immediately noted that many public and private buildings were decorated with colorful ceramics, particularly the Giardino Pubblico, or public garden, with its external walls decorated with tiles and vases. Walking further we then reached the Ponte San Francesco, a 17th-century bridge connecting tow parts of town, as, like many other towns, the city was built on top of a hill, in this case actually on top of three hills. Next to the bridge, on top of a slope, was the church of San Francesco d´Assisi, built in the Baroque style during the 18th century, which was unfortunately closed. Crossing the bridge we then reached the central Piazza Umberto I, with the large cathedral standing at its western end. It was closed too so we walked further reaching then one of the main attractions of the town: the Scalinata di Santa Maria del Monte. Built at the beginning of the 17th century to connect the lower part of town to the ewer upper part built during that period it features a beautiful series of steps for about 130m with impressive ceramic tiles depicting all kind of figures. As we walked up and took several photos, we discovered animals, mythological creatures, warriors and oriental themes. Once we reached the top of the stairs where the church of Maria Santissima del Monte is located, we had a great view over the whole old town. We then walked further passing by the ex-monastery of San Gregorio and the church of the Santissimo Salvatore which contained a nice cupola inside. After reaching the eastern edge of town, where the Capuchin Convent is located, we admired the town from that position and then walked further among the tiny alleyways giving a look in a few ceramic shops. We settled for a larger one where we bought some colorful magnets to bring back home. After getting back the bus, we arrived in Catania and decided to have dinner at a place along the Via Etnea, which had tasty aperitivo food. After eating, we walked back through the city center, passing by the main attractions all lit up by night.
The following day, after waking up we decided to head to the train station and take a train in the direction of Taormina, a famous seaside town north of Catania along the coast. After reaching the destination, we then took a bus which took us all the way to the city center, located on top of a hill, and from there another smaller bus which took us further up to the hilltop town of Castelmola. Part of the club "the most beautiful villages in Italy" this little town sits right above Taormina and thus grants incredible views over the surrounding landscape. As we reached the top and dismounted from the bus, we immediately headed to the nearest terrace where we could clearly see a vast expanse of water, marking the Ionian Sea. To the west, despite the clouds covering it, we could clearly see Mount Etna, Sicily's highest point and the highest active volcano in Europe. We walked a bit around the tiny alleyways of the town and then decided to start heading down a series of steps in the direction of Taormina. We passed by the isolated church of San Biagio, built during the 18th century, and then continued on passing among cacti, including the local and abundant prickly pear type. As we encountered the first houses we entered a small shop and bought some fruit which we took with us until we found a bench and ate it together with the lunch we had taken with us. After eating we then entered the old town through the Porta Catania, and reached the picturesque Piazza Duomo, with a baroque fountain at its center decorated with seahorse and a female centaur. At its eastern end stand the Cathedral, which originally dating from the Byzantine times, now features a 13th-century structure in the Romanesque/Gothic style. We toured the interior, which was quite simple yet featured some interesting greek/Roman columns. We continued on and reached yet another square, Piazza IX Aprile, with a terrace opening out towards the sea granting us an incredible view. The square had a picturesque setting, surrounded by old and beautiful buildings. Its western end was closed off by the Clock tower, dating to the 12th century, while its northern and eastern ends are closed off by the 17th-century church of San Giuseppe and the 16th-century church of Sant´Agostino, respectively. We continued on along the main street, lined with beautiful palaces ranging from different centuries, including Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Neoclassical styles. We then reached the Baroque church of Santa Caterina with the beautiful Palazzo Corvaja standing next to it with its typical medieval structure, originally dating to the 10th century but with major additions from the 14th century. Turning into another street we then reached the famous Ancient Theatre, the second largest in Sicily. Built around the third century B.C., it has one of the best settings ever, with a view of the sea and the Etna volcano from the top of a hill. As it is still used today for performances and festivals after we entered its premise, we, unfortunately, noticed it was covered by a stage which was being set up for the next event. After walking around the structure and admiring the view, we then went back into town and started our descent towards the sea. We reached the beach where the famous Isola Bella, or Pretty Island, sits. A small rocky outcrop just a few meters from the beach and often disconnected from the mainland on high tide. As it was still relatively low tide, we managed to walk over to it by pulling up our pants and found a spot to change into our swimsuits and soak in the sun. After a bit of relaxing and few swims, we then took our stuff, left the beach and headed to the train station where we took the next ride back to Catania.
The next day, due to the forecast giving nicer weather, we decided to head up and see the Etna volcano from up close. However, having missed the only direct bus in the early morning we had to take two buses switching over in the town of Nicolosi set at 700m above sea level. After reaching the highest possible point for buses, the Rifugio Sapienza set at 1910m, we started our walk towards the summit. Etna´s highest point is at 3326m, however, normal hiking is only possible up to 3000m; above that, an expert guide is required. We were not aiming to even reach the 3000m, as the only bus back into Catania would leave at 4pm and not only we wouldn´t have been able, but we were not intending to hike for several hours. We just decided to head up and admire the view, and rocky formations, hoping to maybe spot some lava due to the high activity of the volcano. We walked through almost lunar landscapes enjoying the panorama and glad of the nice wind which made the walk very bearable despite it being still hot at even such altitude. After a three hour walk up and then down, we headed towards the Rifugio Sapienza once again where we browsed through the small touristy shops, with Ania deciding to buy some local honey, almond and pistachio pastes, and then headed to catch our bus back. After reaching the city, we headed to the Airbnb, showered, changed and then headed into the city center for a walk and dinner.
The day after, being it our last in Catania, we decided to spend it to thoroughly see the city. We crossed the Cathedral square and taking some side streets reached the Terme dell´Indirizzo, the remains of Roman baths dating to the second century. They were unfortunately closed so we continued on and reached the Castello Ursino not much later. Built in the 13th century, this impressive stone castle is still largely intact and hosts the civic museum in its interior. After walking around its perimeter, we continued walking and past by the location of the Roman theatre and Odeon, which requiring an entry ticket, we decided to skip. We then entered the church of San Francesco d´Assisi with a light and airy Baroque interior. Nearby, along the street we passed by a group of three churches one next to the other; the church of San Benedetto, the church of San Francesco Borgia, and the church of San Giuliano. All were unfortunately closed so we decided to head on and reached the Terme della Rotonda which were just around the corner. Another set of Roman baths, these were luckily open and free so we gave a quick visit. Built around the second century A.D., they were turned into a church during the Byzantine period, enabling them to be in a good state of conservation. We toured the main hall, which still featured parts of the frescoes when they were turned into a church, and the outside area showing the large complex of the baths. After that, we headed to the next landmark, the Benedictine Monastery of San Nicolo l´Arena, the second larges benedictine monastery after the one in Mafra, Portugal. The visit was only available through a guided tour, so we had to wait for our turn before entering. Originally built during the 16th century it was one of the many monuments hit by the 1693 earthquake and was barely spared by the 1669 lava flow from Etna. It is now used by the University of Catania and holds the Humanities department. So after gathering the group, we began the tour of the complex. We walked through the first cloister which held a beautiful neogothic structure at its center called "caffeaus" which served as a recreational area. From there we walked through some hallway and reached the second cloister which, bare of flora, contained a large 17th-century marble fountain at its center. We then went down one level and found ourselves underground. It was here that the lava flow stopped abruptly, though of as a miracle at the time of its happening, and in fact, the guide clearly showed us the lava wall right outside one of the windows. We also admired the older structure of the monastery, which due to the natural event, was replaced over by the present baroque structure. We admired the nice 16th century remains which were transformed into an incredible underground library for the university. One of the rooms even contained an uncovered section of a 2nd-century Roman mosaic. We walked then up to the second floor and admired the view of the cloisters from the top as well as the cells in which the monks used to sleep, now transformed into classrooms. Further on, we entered the refectory, a monumental room with a nice decorated well to gather the water. Then down below once again we admired more of the old monastery structure, including a modern steel cupola which is supposed to hold a massive amount of lava stone without it falling down. We finished the tour with a walk through the novices´ garden, filled with tropical plants and cacti and then a view of the church from one of the balustrades, as the church itself was closed off for visits at that time. After walking back through the city center, we decided to stop at a place called Osteria Panecaldo, which ,being a restaurant, also offered the chance to take an aperitivo. We thus took the buffet with spritz for 5 euros and filled our stomachs till they nearly burst. We were rather tired and thus decided to head to the accommodation to relax a bit before heading out again after sunset for one last stroll around the city.
The following day, after an early wake-up, we took a local train and headed to the city of Syracuse. located just one hour southeast, it is famous for its Greek history and for being the birthplace of the mathematician and engineer Archimedes. After managing to find a local bar which would keep our luggage as we visited, we immediately headed to see the main highlight: the archaeological area. Considered one of the best preserved in the whole Mediterranean, it includes both the original Greek settlement, as well as the Roman town which developed around it following the Roman conquest. The area though, called Neapolis, or new city, is actually a later development of the first Greek settlement that was first built in the area called Ortigia, now the historical center of Siracusa, which we planned to visit later. After getting the entrance ticket, we first headed to see the Roman Amphitheatre, built in the 1st century A.D. and still quite well preserved and then passed by the Altar of Hieron built during the Hellenistic period and considered the largest known altar from antiquity. Further on we reached the Greek Theatre, originally built during the 5th century B.C., it took its present form in the 3rd century and is an extraordinary monument to admire. It sits on the side of a hill overlooking the modern town and is still sometimes used for theatrical representations. Above it, we then admired the unique Via dei Sepolcri, a pathway built through the rock which was used for the votive altars and tombs of the citizen´s of the ancient city. Right above the theatre and in a central location is the Grotta del Ninfeo, a large room built inside the rock which features and water source that was dedicated to the nymphs in ancient times. From there we descended down and reached a large area filled with beautiful flora. It is called the Latomia del Paradiso, a latomia being a quarry which was used during the ancient times to force slaves into cutting the rock. We also visited one of the caves which was dug out of the rock, and as it resembled the form of a human ear, was given the name Ear of Dionysius by the famous painter Caravaggio. After the visit to the incredible archaeological site, which I had expected a little larger though, we decided to visit the city center. After a bit of walking, we finally reached the old town, nestled on a tiny islet called Ortigia, which is now connected to the mainland by a modern bridge. After we crossed over, we immediately found ourselves in front of the ruins of the Temple of Apollo, dating to the 6th century B.C., making it thus the oldest Doric temple in the whole of Sicily. Continuing on we passed through the Piazza Archimede with the Fontana di Diana at its center, a nice fountain built at the beginning of the 20th century. Not much further we then entered the beautiful Piazza del Duomo, with its impressive baroque buildings. It is considered one of the prettiest in Italy, and rightly so, with its glittering white and yellow marbles. We passed in front of the Palazzo del Vermexio, site of the town hall, the Palazzo Beneventano del Bosco and the Archbishop´s Palace. At the center of the square stands the imposing Cathedral with a richly decorated Baroque facade, which we decided to visit. To my surprise, the entrance was paid, and after buying the ticket we visited its interior. Originally built over a Doric temple from the 5th century B.C., whose original columns were integrated into the structure, it was then built a series of times over the centuries until it took its present form after the 1693 earthquake during the 18th century. As we toured the interior, we noticed the features from both the Greek era and the Baroque one giving it a nice mix. After exiting the Cathedral, we then crossed the square and took an ice-cream to eat on the go. We then reached the western edge of town where a nice walkway along the sea was set. Here we encountered the Fountain of Arethusa, a natural spring of fresh water set right next to the sea water. It was a spiritual site since the ancient times, where it was believed the nymph Arethusa lived, and it is the only of two sites in the whole Europe where papyrus grows, the other being a river near Catania. We continued our walk until we reached the southern end of the island where the Castello Maniace is located. Built in the 13th century during the rule of Emperor Frederick II it was unfortunately closed as we were there so that meant walking back up through the city center. We reached the eastern side of the island with another nice walking siding the sea and with a great view of the houses and walls right above the water. This formed some impressive cliffs and we found out there were some tiny beaches at their base where many people were enjoying the water and sun, so close to the city center. Next on we visited the small church of San Filippo, built in the Baroque, which also contained a rare and interesting underground level where Jewish mikvah is still remaining. It was unfortunately closed at that time, so we headed on through the center and back towards the train station where we took the next ride in the direction of Noto. Together, with Catania and other towns in the area, Noto is part of a Unesco World Heritage Site consisting of cities rebuilt in the Baroque style after the terrible earthquake and set close to each other in the so-called Val di Noto. After reaching the train station, we headed uphill and got to the point where the old town starts, marked by the Porta Reale, a monumental gate. As we entered the city center, we admired the beautiful Baroque architecture which characterizes it. We then entered the Chiesa di San Francesco d´Assisi all´Immacolata, with a typical austere facade made in yellow granite and a simple interior. We were walking along the main street, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, and reached then a large opening where many of the main landmarks are set. Ania was rather tired as we had woken up early, walked all day, and now had to carry out luggage with us as there was no place to keep it secure. Thus she sat in the shade of the Palazzo Ducezio, an impressive palace from the 19th century now holding the town hall, while I visited the other landmarks. I first climbed the immense staircase set on the opposite side from the Palace, at the top of which stands the beautiful Cathedral. Built during the 18th century, it is a perfect example of a Baroque church and features a light and airy interior. The cupola was the only thing that had to be rebuilt after an earthquake damaged it in the 1990s. After seeing the church I walked further along the streets and took a side street leading uphill and past a beautiful 18th-century palace, the Palazzo Nicolaci, with interesting figures on its iron-wrought balconies. At the end of the street on the top was set the picturesque Chiesa di Montevergine. Then back down along another street, led me to a small square with Hercule´s fountain at its center, and the church of San Domenico on the northern side with a nice and light interior. Then back towards the main area, I visited the Basilica del Santissimo Salvatore, with a richly decorated interior, and the church of Santa Chiara in an unusual elliptic shape and also richly decorated. From there, I went back to Ania who was resting and then together we headed back down to the train station where we took the last train for the day in the direction of our next stop: Modica. This town, like the previous, was also inscribed in the Unesco site due to its Baroque architecture. We were already able to admire it beauty once we reached the train station, and directed ourselves to the accommodation we had booked. We walked through the old town and then uphill one of the hills in the central part, where our accommodation was located, obviously at the top of it. After finally reaching the house, the owner came to leave us the keys and showed us the rooms, then left and we started to unpack our stuff. After a bit of resting and eating gnocchi for dinner, we then went out to admire the city by night. We reached a spot called Pizzo Belvedere with gave an unbeatable and amazing view over the whole old town, illuminated with lights all around giving us the impression of looking at a nativity scene. After admiring the view for a while, we headed back and went to bed, tired from the long day. The next morning after breakfast, while Ania worked on her computer, I decided to explore a bit the surroundings. I went to see the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Gesù, located at the northernmost tip of the city, but unfortunately found it closed. I was hoping to visit its unique late Gothic cloister but had to satisfy myself with just admiring its 15th-century structure from the outside. Then I was off to visit the Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista, set on top of a nice staircase lined with trees and standing on the highest point of the city. I visited its Baroque interior and then for one euro climbed its tower, giving me a bird´s eye view of the whole town. Descending down the hill I reached, after a while, the beautiful cathedral. It is considered one of the best examples of the Baroque style, and after seeing its richly decorated interior, I thought rightly so. In front of its impressive facade, a terrace opened up to a great view of the town. It was then time to head back to the accommodation and pick up Ania to head further on our trip. After checking out and grabbing our luggage, we headed back down again and passed by the Cathedral once more. We then descended its pretty staircase decorated with plants and flowers granting it a really picturesque setting. We then reached the lowest part of town and visited another Cathedral, as the town contains actually two, the Duomo di San Pietro. Also built in the Baroque style, like most of the city, it presents a finely decorated interior. After descending down its monumental staircase we crossed the street and entered a famous and old chocolate shop called Antica Cioccolateria Bonajuto which I had seen on an Italian tv program. The place was in fact packed with tourists and locals, and we were barely able to try the chocolate but chose not to buy any due to the crowd. In fact, the town is famous for its production of chocolate, called Cioccolato di Modica and a PGI product, which differing from the usual way, it actually follows the traditional technique of grinding rather than conching it resulting in a grainy texture. The tradition of chocolate here is very old, dating to the times it was first imported from the Aztecs by the Spanish ruling over the island. From there we walked further and reached once again the train station from where took a regional train headed to the nearby city of Ragusa, another Baroque city inscribed in the Unesco site. After reaching the destination, we headed on foot and passed by some nice murals which had been promoted by the city, and then crossing a bridge over an interesting gorge, reached our accommodation, the hostel San Vito. recently renovated it featured a really nice and clean room and cool shared spaces. After unpacking our stuff, we headed out and directed ourselves to the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista, one of the two cathedrals of the city. We were in fact in one of the two parts which make up the city. This part called upper Ragusa was the part which developed after the earthquake, while the other part, called Ragusa Ibla, is set on another lower hill and features the oldest part of the town. Once we reached the Cathedral, we found it closed, as it was lunchtime, and thus decided to grab something to eat. We took a kind of focaccia, called scaccia, filled with tomato and mozzarella and then grabbed some vegetables and fruit from a supermarket to snack on. After lunch we came back and found the church open, proceeding to visit it. Built in the late Baroque style during the 18th century after the earthquake that hit the area, it features an impressively decorated facade. The interior is more somber but still typical of the period thus emphasizing the marbles and decorations. After the visit, we decided to head towards the other part of the town: Ragusa Ibla. Located at the eastern end of the city, it is considered as the oldest core of the town and sits on top of a hill surrounded by a ravine. We first reached the church of Santa Lucia o Veneranda, which was unfortunately closed, and then the Church of Santa Maria delle Scale which despite the Baroque reconstruction still featured Gothic characteristics such as arches, paintings, and interesting column capitals. Once outside the church, a terrace gave us an incredible view over the old town from where we could see all the buildings scaling up the hill and the bell towers jutting out from the rooftops. We descended down towards the end of the street reaching the Piazza della Repubblica, the conjunction place between the newer part of Ragusa and Ragusa Ibla. From there it was a meandering of streets going uphill to the core of Ibla. We passed by some nice palaces and then entered the second Cathedral of the city, the Duomo di San Giorgio. Dating from the 18th century it features a typical Baroque architecture mixed with some Neoclassical features. The interior is simple but presents a nice and large cupola. After exiting the church we walked through the square right in front of it and stopped at a local pastry shop to grab a large cannolo, a tube-shelled pastry filled with ricotta cheese and sprinkled with pistachio, to share. At one point, following on, we reached the far-eastern part of town where the Giardino Ibleo is located. A beautiful public garden filled with palm trees and other plants and with views all over the surrounding countryside and the ravine below. In the garden's premises are three churches, of which we were able to see one of them, the church of San Giacomo. Right outside the garden we then passed by the Portale di San Giorgio, a gothic portal and the only surviving structure of what once used to be the church of San Giorgio. After strolling about for a while we then decided to head back to the newer part of town, walking downhill first and then back uphill. On the way, we stopped to see the interior of the church of Santa Maria dell' Itria with beautiful Baroque features and an even prettier bell tower. After reaching our hostel we relaxed a bit and then headed out once again to have dinner. We walked around the area of the Cathedral of San Giovanni Battista checking out the many places located there. We finally opted for a small place which offered a great aperitivo buffet for just 5 euros. After filling up we headed out for one last view, this time by night, of the old town and then back to the hostel to sleep. The following day we took the train which brought us to the town of Licata, there we had a bit of time for our connection to Agrigento so we decided to take some time to explore the old town a little. We reached the Piazza Sant'Angelo where the church of Sant'Angelo is located and checked out its interior which featured mostly Neoclassical characteristics. Right outside, next door was the Caffé Sant'Angelo where we decided to stop and relax for the rest of the time while eating brioche and granita. The kind lady brought us several granitas to try and we liked the one tasting of mulberry the most. After enjoying our food we then headed to the bus station where we took the next ride to Agrigento. Once we arrived we went to check in our hotel and have a quick shower due to the already hot day. After that, we decided to walk and reach the Valley of the Temples, an important archaeological area and one of the most outstanding testimonies of ancient Greek art and architecture. After entering the site we started by visiting the western end with the temple of Castor and Pollux of which only three columns remain. We passed through more ruins, mostly consisting of sparse rocks and then encountered another temple, that of Olympian Zeus, built in 480 BC to celebrate Akragas', Agrigento's ancient-greek name, victory over Carthage. Only small traces of it are left, mostly consisting of fallen pillars and scattered rocks. Next on was the Temple of Heracles, with its eight impressive Doric columns still standing, built during the 6th century BC. Further on, as we walked up a large path we came upon the impressive and huge Temple of Concordia. It is considered as one of the most notable edifices of the Greek civilization due to its near-perfect state of preservation. Built in 440 BC it presents an outstanding example of Doric architecture. It was well preserved due to having been turned into a church during the middle ages which meant its main structure survived with just a few alterations. After taking a few photos we then continued on passing by a way lined by a necropolis filled with tombs and catacombs. We reached the eastern of the archaeological site where the Temple of Juno is located. Built during the 5th century, it is made of large standing parts which were however rebuilt in anastylosis, meaning that the structures of the building were set up using the same rocks found scattered around to the greatest degree possible to the original. Our visit to the archaeological area was over so we directed ourselves to the exit where we waited a few minutes to catch the next bus back up to the city center. After resting a little at our hotel we then went out for dinner. We stopped at a place called Siculò, where we had some tasty arancini. Then after a stroll around the old town, we headed back to sleep.
The following morning, after an early wake-up, we headed to the bus station where we took a ride headed to Trapani. After reaching the destination we took a local bus and headed to our Airbnb where we checked in, left our stuff and then went out again. We then reached the cableway station where we took a ride to the town of Erice, located on top of Mount Erice at 750m above sea level and overlooking the whole area. The return ticket was 9 euros but the cableway provided an incredible view over Trapani, the whole coast and the Aegadian islands. After reaching the top we entered the historic town of Erice and immediately headed to the Cathedral. After paying 4 euros, which included 4 other churches around town, we first climbed the bell tower. Built during the 14th century in the Gothic style it resembles more like a fortified tower, a function it once served before being transformed into the church's bell tower. After climbing to the top, at 28m, we had an amazing view all over the old town, and its surroundings. We stayed there for a little while admiring the panorama and taking photos and then walked back downstairs to visit the Duomo. The structure dates to the same period of the bell tower, and presents some beautiful Gothic features and resembling more of a fortress than a church. The interior was highly modified in the following centuries, particularly the main nave which was rebuilt in an impressive neogothic style. One particular noteworthy early feature is the 16th-century marble altar located in the main apse of the church. After walking through the streets we then reached the church of San Cataldo which featured a simple interior and a nicely decorated Baroque sacristy. Nearby we came upon a large terrace which granted an impressive view towards the north and over the Monte Cofano and its coastline. We continued on and reached the Torri del Balio, a set of towers built during the middle ages to fortify this high-rise area, right below it is a tower called Torre Pepoli, refurbished during the 19th century by the Count Pepoli who turned it into its residence. A little further, and once connected to the Balio towers, is the Castello di Venere, built by the Normans in the 12th century when they ruled this area. The view from here was really incredible; we could easily see the wonderful rolling hilly landscape filled with dry fields and olive groves on one side and on the other the glistening reflection of the sun in the mediterranean sea with the outlines of the Aegadian islands in the distance. We then went back through the streets and visited the church of San Giuliano, originally built under the Normans but then refurbished during the 18th century. The onwards to the church of San Martino with a beautiful Baroque interior featuring splendid altars, marbles, and a decorated pavement. As the last site, we visited the monastery of Ss Salvatore, or what is left of it. Dating to the 13th century there are just a few parts of it remaining, mostly without a roof, and mostly consisting of the structure. From there we headed back to the cableway and took our ride back down to Trapani while enjoying a beautiful sunset. After having relaxed for a while at the Airbnb, we decided to head to the city center of Trapani and explore a little. We reached the old town and walking through the lively streets starting to animate after sunset. We walked along the northern walls beach which provided a relaxing and quaint stroll and view of the city. Then we headed through the streets once again to find out a place to eat. We opted for a restaurant called Torre Arsa where Ania took a pasta alla Trapanese, with tomatoes, almonds, and arugula, and I took a fish couscous, typical of this city. After a post-dinner stroll and ice-cream, we headed back to our accommodation to sleep.
In the morning we woke up early to head to the port and take the ferry to the nearby island of Favignana, the largest of the Aegadian archipelago. After reaching the main town, we descended onto the pier and walking a bit around the old town. Then we headed out and east, walking through a couple of kilometers until we reached the beach of Cala Rossa. As we approached the cliff we were amazed by the crystal clear blue waters of the beach and could not believe our eyes. A pristine area which was starting to get filled with beachgoers, this large rocky beach features cliffs which used to be dug out for their stone. We found a hollow side in the cliff and decided to set ourselves there, repaired from the scorching heat. Then once in a while, I would grab the mask I had brought with me and dive into the splendid waters in search of fish and other sea creatures. It really felt like paradise and we relaxed there for the most part of the day. After that, we decided to walk some more and reach the southern end of the island where a beach called Lido Burrone was located. In this case, the beach was made up of sand which made the entry into the sea much more pleasant and easy, but that also meant more people and beach umbrellas too. After relaxing a little there too we finally headed back to town where we took the ferry to Trapani. We then had a quick dinner and headed back to the accommodation, tired from the sun and sea.
The following day, after an easy wake-up, we headed to the bus station and took a bus to Palermo, Sicily's capital. After arrival, we headed to our accommodation which was very central. After leaving our luggage we headed out to explore the old town. It was the first day of cloudy weather but that didn't discourage us from seeing as many sites as possible. Our first stop was the Cathedral, located close to our Airbnb. Built over several centuries, it features several styles, from the Norman, through the Moorish, Gothic, and Baroque to the more recent Neoclassical one and is listed as a Unesco site in the larger site: Norman Palermo and the Cathedral Churches of Cefalù and Monreale. The exterior features a mostly unified and harmonious Gothic style with its many turrets, chapels and cupolas jutting out. The interior presents instead a rather full Baroque style which was not as impressive as the exterior. After exiting the building, we walked further up the street and reached the monumental gate Porta Nuova, built during the 16th century to celebrate Charles V's conquest of Tunis. Right next to it stands the Palazzo dei Normanni, a palace having served as the seat of the Kings of Sicily during the Norman rule and then of subsequent rulers. It is considered as the oldest royal residence in Europe and the current seat of one of the oldest parliaments in the world, the Sicilian parliament. Not far further we then entered the church of San Giovanni degli Eremiti, dating to the 6th century, and after the Muslim conquest of the islands, later transformed into a mosque. It was returned to its Christian origins when the Normans took control of the island and was altered just slightly during its lengthy history. It was particularly interesting to visit as it featured brilliant red circular domes, typical of some churches in Palermo which clearly show the Muslim influence in the city's skyline. The influence of three cultures in the city led to a specific style and culture called Norman-Arab-Byzantine. After visiting the church and its wonderful cloister we headed west and reached the Capuchin Catacombs. A burial place for the Capuchin monks it was then used by inhabitants of Palermo for centuries. It is famous for its macabre display of most of the dead bodies which have been in many cases well-preserved with most of their clothing and accessories still on. After the creepy visit, we came back out into the open air and headed forward reaching the Castello della Zisa. Built during the 12th century by Arabian craftsmen as a summer residence for the Norman King William I of Sicily, it features a mostly Moorish architecture. The interior had some really interesting decorations, including large halls and an entrance with a niche and fountain at its center. After that it was time for dinner, so we opted for a place called FUD which served tasty yet quite expensive burgers; it seemed quite like though as it was full and a lined had formed to get a seat.
After a good night's sleep, we got up at a decent hour and had breakfast a local bakery, then we started the day by visiting the Regional Archaeological Museum Antonio Salinas. Hosted in a building which once was a monastery, it features an important collection of Punic and Ancient Greek art. Not much further we then reached the Castello a Mare, a sea fortress, now on dry land, with a Norman keep and subsequent renaissance walls. Then off to the International Museum of Puppets, which features, as the name suggests, puppet figures from around the world including the famous Sicilian ones. Next door, we then visited the church of Santa Maria della Pietà with a really nice Baroque interior. Right behind the church, in the Palazzo Abatellis, we then visited the Regional Gallery of Sicily, which featured impressive art, including that of Antonello da Messina, and the fresco representing the Triumph of Death. The palace itself was also a visit on its own as it featured a typical medieval lavish residence with a nice loggia. Continuing on we visited yet another Norman church, the Basilica della Santissima Trinità detta la Magione. It features a large nave simple yet elegant and a very pretty cloister with the typical Moorish arches. After the visit, we headed back towards the core of the city and went inside the Church of San Cataldo a perfect example of Arab-Norman architecture dating to 1154. It features several cupolas, red-roofed from the outside, and a splendid Byzantine mosaic pavement. From the church, we then walked to the Piazza Pretoria, a beautiful central square lined by two churches on one side and the Palazzo Pretorio, or town hall on another. At the center of the square lies the monumental Fontana Pretoria, built in 1554 originally in Florence and move to Palermo twenty years later. Next to the square, we passed through a crossing known as Quattro Canti, a square built during the 17th century and surrounded by Baroque buildings giving it a symmetrical look. On the south-western corner of such square, we then visited the church of San Giuseppe dei Teatini, a beautiful Baroque example with a wonderfully painted vaulted ceiling. Walking further through the streets we passed once again by the port and then through the Vucciria, a historic market area, a bit degraded but full of life. Once we exited the area we reached the church of San Domenico, another Baroque example and famous for being the burial place for many of the illustrious inhabitants of the city. Right next door we then entered the Rinascente, a department store found all over Italy, which in this case granted us an incredible view of the cityscape from its rooftop terrace. As the sun set, we grabbed some dinner on the go and then took a final stroll of the old town before heading to our accommodation to sleep.
The next day we woke up and decided to take a bus which brought us to the nearby town of Monreale, located uphill on the slopes of Monte Caputo. The town is famous for its Cathedral, inscribed in the Unesco list due to its architectural mix of Norman, Arab and Byzantine. After reaching the destination we immediately headed to the church, whose entrance was free, but also decided to buy the ticket to visit all its extras, including the cloister and museum. The Cathedral was built during the 12th century under the rule of William II of Sicily. to rival that of Palermo. As we walked through the bronze doors cast by Bonanno Pisano in 1186, we marveled at the magnificence of the interior. The plan is divided into three naves all of which meticulously detailed, and the largest one of them presents the most beautiful part. In fact, a complete set of mosaics covers most of the walls, transepts, and apse. They are the work of craftsmen, both local and Venetian, who decorated it during the 12th and 13th centuries in the Byzantine style. The stories there represented mostly depict the Old and New Testaments. Alongside the mosaics, there were also some other noteworthy features such as the lavish tombs of William I and William II, and the Baroque chapel of San Castrense. We then headed through a door and entered the cloister. It is considered as one of the largest and most beautiful in all the country, and rightly so, because of its wonderfully decorated column capitals depicting flora, fauna, mythological and religious figures. We walked around it and then walked on top of it to reach the highest point of the church, right above the apse. From there we had a beautiful view of the valley below and of Palermo in the distance. As we walked back down we went through the small museum annexed which hold mostly religious objects part of the church's treasury. After the visit we took a bus back to Palermo and attempted to visit the Palazzo dei Normanni, however, as we approached, we were told by a guard that the entrance was closed due to a wedding. All the visitors left standing were in disbelief, particularly due to the fact a public building and museum had been closed off because of a wedding. After that, we decided to head for dinner at a place Ania had found online. It was a bit outside the city but well worth a visit. We tried some tasty dishes, including risotto and bean soup. After that, we headed home to relax.
Yet another morning meant an early wake-up, this time trying to see the Palazzo dei Normanni as early as possible. We arrived as it opened so that meant it was completely empty. The main reason for the visit was the Cappella Palatina, the royal chapel built by the Norman kings. Finished in 1132 it features an extraordinary set of mosaics from the Byzantine school which completely cover the interior of the small church. Scenes from the Old and New Testaments are present as well as some representing the apostles and that of Christ the Pantocrator on the apse. The ceiling is vaulted through the muqarnas style, consisting of a wooden honeycomb decoration typical of Muslim architecture. After the beautiful view, we descended through some stairs and visited the small gallery of European paintings hosted in one of the palace's rooms. Once back out we walked around town and gave a look at the church of the Gesù, one of the most important Baroque monuments of the city. The entrance was paid, which was a bit offputting so I decided to just enter it for prayer. As I sat on the benches I admired it and appreciated its beautifully decorated walls full of kinds of lavish marbles. Then, once out again, we walked back to a square which we had previously seen and entered the church of the Martorana, also known as the church of Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio. The church belongs to the Italo-Albanian community and is thus officiated according to the Byzantine Rite in the ancient Greek language. The interior featured an impressive array of mosaics, from the Byzantine school, mostly dating to the 12th centuries and depicting the usual religious scenes typical of the time, including the representation of the Norman kings in Byzantine clothing. It was still morning so we decided to head to the train station and catch a train headed to the town of Cefalù. In about an hour we reached the destination and headed towards the city center. As the sun was not at its zenith yet, we decided to climb the Rocca, a 268m mount overlooking the city. After buying the entry ticket, we stopped in the shade for a little and eat the lunch we had brought before taking up the path. The walk was a bit tough due to the heat, but well worth it. We first reached a megalithic structure from the 9th century B.C. known as the temple of Diana, which presented mostly some rocky remains and then walked a little further to reach an incredible panorama right above the old town of Cefalù. After admiring the view and taking several pictures we then walked further up, finally reaching the top of the mount, where the remains of a castle stand testimony as to the mount's name. The view here was great too, however, there was nowhere to hide from the scorching heat, so we decided to slowly head back down towards the city. After entering the old town, which is part of the club the Most beautiful villages in Italy, we walked through the pretty streets and reached the town's main attraction: the Cathedral. Built in 1131 in the Norman style by King Roger II it is included in the Unesco list together with Palermo and Monreale. Its structure is in fact, like the other sites we had visited, a mix of Norman, Arab, and Byzantine style. The exterior wonderfully represents this architectural style, while the interior suffered remodelings particularly during the 16th century. In fact, only the apse is left with the original mosaics which once used to cover the whole interior. Dating to the 12th century, like their counterparts in Palermo and Monreale, they are from the Byzantine school and a wonderful sight to behold. Particularly nice to see was also the annexed cloister which featured some impressive anthropomorphic capitals dating to the same early period of the Cathedral. After having admired the main monument, we walked through the meandering streets and came out in the small port which featured a picturesque setting of the old townhouses surrounding a small beach with crystal clear waters despite the august crowd. We walked a little further and reached a larger yet still crowded beach where we tanned and bathed in the refreshing waters. After a while, we packed our stuff and took the next train back to Palermo where we relaxed the rest of night in order to fly early the next morning to Turin.
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| The University Palace in Catania |
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| The Palazzo Paternò |
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| Ceramic decoration in Caltagirone |
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| The view of Caltagirone from the Scalinata di Santa Maria del Monte |
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| View of Castelmola |
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| View over Taormina from Castelmola |
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| The Duomo of Taormina |
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| The Piazza IX Aprile in Taormina |
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| The Greek theatre of Taormina and Mount Etna in the background |
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| View of Isola bella |
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| Another view of Isola Bella |
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| Volcanic landscape in Mount Etna |
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| Volcanic mounds on Etna |
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| The main square and Cathedral of Catania |
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| The Castello Ursino |
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| The main cloister of the Monastery of San Nicolò l'Arena |
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| The volcanic hallways turned into the university's library |
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| On the terrace of the monastery |
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| The roman amphitheatre in Siracusa |
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| The Greek theatre of Siracusa |
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| The so-called Ear of Dionysius |
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| Main square and Cathedral in the Ortigia island part of Siracusa |
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| View of the walls on the eastern part of the island |
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| The church of St Francis in Noto |
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| The Cathedral of Noto |
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| Baroque palaces and the church of Montevergine in Noto |
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| View of Modica |
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| Night view of Modica from the Pizzo Belvedere |
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| View of Modica |
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| The Duomo of San Giorgio in Modica |
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| View of Ragusa |
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| View of Ragusa Ibla |
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| The gardens of ragusa Ibla |
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| Cupola of the Duomo of San Giorgio in Ragusa Ibla |
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| The archaeological site of Akragas, Agrigento |
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| The surrounding landscape |
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| The Temple of Concordia |
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| The Duomo in Erice |
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| View of the Torretta Pepoli and the Castle of Venus in Erice |
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| The infinite landscape seen from Erice |
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| The castle of Venus and the medieval towers |
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| View of Trapani and the Aegadian islands from Erice |
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| Trapani's northern harbour |
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| The incredibly crystal clear water on the island of Favignana |
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| The Cala Rossa in Favignana |
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| The rocky coast of Favignana's northeastern part |
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| The church of San Giovanni degli Eremiti in Palermo |
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| The Capuchin catacombs |
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| The Zisa Palace |
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| The interior of the church of San Cataldo |
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| The Fontana Pretoria and the church of Santa Caterina d'Alessandria |
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| Palermo's Cathedral |
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| The Porta Nuova |
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| The interior of the Duomo di Monreale |
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| Detail of the byzantne mosaics inside Monreale |
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| Detail of the mosaic of Christ the Pantocrator |
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| The Romanesque cloister |
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| View of the cloister from the top |
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| The Palatine Chapel inside the Palace of the Normans |
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| Detail of one of the mosaics inside the Palatine Chapel |
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| View of the church of San Cataldo and Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio |
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| View of Cefalù from the top of the Rocca |
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| View of the coast from the Rocca |
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| Cefalù's Cathedral |
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| Interior of the Cathedral |
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| View of the old town and harbour |
