Tom`s travels: Skiing in the Dolomites (08-10/03/2024)

My brother and I decided to go skiing in the Dolomites for a few days. From our aunt's house near Brunico we drove and reached Passo Falzarego where we parked the car and then got the skipass for the day. We first took the cable car up to the Lagazuoi at 2752m above sea level, however once on top we unfortunately found out it was completely covered in mist and we could barely see our own feet. That meant that heading down the slope was super hard and took a lot of time as everything around was white and made our heads dizzy. Once back down we decided to cross the street and head over to ski at Col Gallina which at least had much less mist and had a better visibility. After a few runs there we then moved over to Cinque Torri where we also skied a few slopes. The highest point, Rifugio Averau, at 2416m, was also covered in mist and so we could not enjoy the beautiful view which can usually be seen up there. Heading back down the slopes we then took the new Cortina Skyline cable car which brought us all the way to the Tofane mountains just west of Cortina. Once there was only a bus connection however with this new cable car one can travel between the two ski areas more easily. After reaching the area of Pocol, we did a couple of slopes there, and then moved on to Socrepes. We did a couple of slopes and then decided to look for a place to have dinner as we wanted to eat relatively early and skip the rush hour. We tried heading to the Baita Piè Tofana but found out it had recently been restructured and now was super fancy and expensive. Instead we ended up eating at Col Taron where I had a mixed plate of eggs, meat and some veggies: overall it was so-so. After lunch the weather had improved slightly, opening up and allowing us a a view of Cortina below. However, as we headed on to ski at higher altitudes, especially around the rifugio Pomedes and rifugio Duca d'Aosta, right below the Tofane, the mist was still rather thick. We did a couple of slopes there, and then headed down one of our favorite since we were little kids the Tofanina, a slope heading through the woods which always gave us the impression of being in a land of fairy, gnomes, and other mountain creatures. After a few more slopes here and there we took once again the cable car that took us back to Cinque Torri where we had yet some more slopes before finally heading to Col Gallina and do some more there until closing time. Once the last skilift had closed we skied all the way down to Passo Falzarego where we eventually got back in the car and drove home.

The morning after, waking up early once more, we drove in a similar direction as the previous day but eventually reached La Villa in the Alta Badia area. Here we parked the car right next to the cable car, and then after buying our skipasses, were the first ones to reach the top of the Piz La Ila mountain. Here, at about 2100m, is set the Moritzino, a hut and club very popular among young people for the apres-ski drinking. As it was still empty of people we immediately headed down the hard but amazing Gran Risa slope, which freshly beaten as it was, made the way down incredible. We decided to do it a second time as soon as we reached the bottom but my brother found out he had lost his skipass heading downhill. So I quickly got the cable car once more and slowly went down the slop to try to find it. Unfortunately I couldn't find it but once down my brother had managed to reprint his at the ticket booth. Heding up the mountain once again we then decided to move and head towards other slopes. We skied down the eastern side and reached first San Cassiano and then back up to the Piz Sorega we headed all the way down to Armentarola. After a few slopes there we then decided to do the whole tour around the Sella mountain group by following the famous Sellaronda. Our first stop was the town of Arabba which we reached after a few slopes and skilifts. From there we opted for a small deviation to Porta Vescovo to consider if to go to the Marmolada as well. A quick view from the top there made us rethink as we saw the Marmolada was covered in clouds and wouldn't become dangerous and not fun to ski with barely any visibility up there. So from that point we continued on and reached Passo Pordoi. We did a few slopes there and then on the nearby Col dei Rossi, right above the town of Canazei. Then we decided to look for a place to eat and chose the Baita Gherdeccia where we ate at the self service restaurant there, some canederli. After eating we got back on our skis and move over to the Passo Sella where we skied some really nice slopes right below the Sassolungo. Moving onwards we headed down to the Plan de Gralba and finally down to Selva di Val Gardena where the sun greeted for a little while. Once in town we took of our skis, crossed the street, and then got on the cable car which took up to the Dantercepies hut. Here we skied a couple of slopes in the sun, but because it was rather warm, they became slushly and hard to ski. We headed back up the Dantercepies and crossed over the Passo Gardena skiing then down to Colfosco. Here we did a couple of slopes right below the Sass da Ciampac, and then moved over to the nearby town of Corvara in Badia, to finish around tour around the Sella group. For the last hour or so we skied up and down the Piz la Ila in all directions trying to do different slopes. Then for the final slope we headed up to the top at the Moritzino where we finished off our day with a final ride down the Gran Risa. However it was nothing compared to the morning as it was now full of bumps which made it a pain for the legs and really tough. Once back down to the car, before heading home we decided to drive to Corvara and have a snack. We stopped at the Stüa dal Tê Raetia where we had tea and sacher cake. Then after a brief stop at the supermarket to get some local delicacies we headed back home.

On our last day in the mountains, as we were quite tired and it threatened a heavy snowstorm in the afternoon, we decided to do a short snowshoe tour instead of skiing. We packed our bags and drove off passing by once again the Passo Falzarego. Here it had already started snowing but we were heading further so we drove downhill until we stopped at a tiny parking spot along the road. We parked the car, put our snowshoes on, and headed down along the road that eventually led us to Andraz Castle. Dating most probably to the 11th century, it is the highest castle in Italy located at about 1700m above sea level. Though now partly ruined, it still stands nice and strong with its thick grey stone walls to oversee the road leading up to the Passo Falzarego once an important strategic location between several valleys. Set now during a snowstorm and surrounded by the white of the snow itself was really a sight to behold. Despite it being open only in the summer we were able to visit part of it headed up the stairs to have a commanding view of the area. From the castle ruins we then walked a little further to reach the small hamlet of Castello that grew up around the castle. Despite its remoteness, there were actually a couple of houses with cars outside meaning there were people in there as well. From there we then headed back to the castle trying to snowshoe away from the road but that proved quite hard as the snow was knee deep and very fresh and soft. After one last look, we decided to head back to the car as we didn't wish to get caught in the snowstorm too long while driving towards home. On the way down the valley, we decided to stop for lunch in Pieve di Livinallongo at the Pizzeria Klematys. Here I had some really tasty canederli and then an apple strudel as dessert. The prices were also much better than the previous days. After lunch we had a little walk around the town, visiting the church of San Giacomo Maggiore dating to the 12th century but remade in a gothic style and with a tall bell tower. After that it was time to go so we got back in the car and drove on home.