Friday, December 22, 2023

Treviso to Jesolo on foot (27/08/2023)

On a late August weekend day, I decided to do a long-distance walk, starting out in Treviso and walking all the way to Jesolo along the Sile River. I got up early and from my grandma's house in Jesolo headed over to the bus station. Once there I got the bus and after about an hour reached Treviso. Getting off the bus I then directed myself to the main square from where I would start the stopwatch. As I then left the main square I passed by and stopped to visit the nice church of Santa Maria Maggiore. I had been to Treviso several times before but had yet to see this one. Built in a late Gothic style between the 15th and 16th centuries it features a nice mixtilinear facade and nice interior with some traces of medieval frescoes. After visiting the church I then exited the old town walking along the moat that goes around the Renaissance town walls. Shortly after I reached the Sile River and from here started following the water flowing southwards towards the sea. The road along the riverbank, known as alzaia, led me through the city's suburbs until I came upon the Cimitero dei Burci. This peculiar archaeological site consists of a kind of cemetery of burci, or traditional transport boats, from the 20th century that were left to sink into a shallow part of the river. Now a new and nice overhanging walkway leads visitors, and strollers alike to walk above this interesting site. Continuing onwards I reached the town of Casier where I visited its parish church built in the late 18th century and with a tall white bell tower. Moving along the river bank I walked onwards, following the natural bends of the river, and admiring the beautiful Venetian villas on the other side of the river, all of which were private and inaccessible but nice to admire from far away. After some walking, I reached the hamlet of Lughignano where I tried to visit the local church dedicated to St Martin. Originally dating to the Langobard period it was refurbished in the 16th century and nearly completely rebuilt in 1915, but still preserving the medieval bell tower and Romanesque apse. Unfortunately, as I arrived I found it closed so i continued onwards on the path along the river. I passed the nice Villa Mantovani Orsetti, a neoclassical 19th century building, and right nearby found a fig tree where I was able to pick a few fruits to eat on the way. Not long after I then had to cross the river Sile, and walk, still along the waterfront, but on the other side. As I moved on I saw the town of Casale sul Sile, with its parish church and tall bell tower right on the water across to the other side. I continued on along the path which led me through fields and small forests until I arrived in Musestre. I passed by the nice church of Sant'Ulderico, in a neoclassical style from the 18th century, and right next to the waterfront. At that point I crossed the river once more and entered the town of Quarto d'Altino where, with a small deviation, I reached a supermarket to grab some food. I then sat on a bench and enjoyed my lunch and a deserved break. It had gotten much warmer but I still had half way to go. I left town and followed the right bank of the river. After some time I then reached the hamlet of Portegrandi. Here I couldn't find any fountains so I entered a bar and asked the owner if she could refill my water bag, which she gladly did and wished me good luck after I told her of my walk plan. Once, the Sile River used to flow right into the lagoon near Portegrandi, but in 1683 the Republic of Venice diverted its course through the Sile Canal, which transferred its waters to the old bed of the Piave, which in turn was diverted further east. Here I then followed the long and endless but beautiful path running along this canal. To my right the amazing landscape of the Venetian Lagoon with its sandbars, reeds, birds flying, and flamingos feeding. Reaching the end of the canal where the Sile River flows into the former Piave river bed I stopped briefly at Camporea, an open-air bar with a little park around it. Here I filled up with water, hosed some cold water on my legs, and laid down for a few minutes. I had passed the 40km mark but had still quite some more to go. My legs were hurting but I needed to continue. I walked next to some fields and still with the lagoon in sight to my right. Then the path turned into a minor street near the hamlet of Santa Maria di Piave which I followed until I came upon the Torre Caligo, the ruins of a 10th century medieval tower. A few more kilometers and then I came in sight of the town of Jesolo. Once here I decided to take another break on a bench facing the water. I was struggling but I was so close. After a bit I got up, crossed the bridge over the river, and then walked south, towers Jesolo Lido. It had gotten dark, so I walked on the side of the road with my phone light out so that incoming cars would notice me. Finally, I arrived in Jesolo Lido, and here decided I should finish precisely in the sea. I walked across the beach and eventually reached the water, after more than 55 kilometers and 10 hours from Treviso. I took off my clothes and jumped inside naked, finally happy about my longest hike so far.

Treviso's main square, Piazza dei Signori

The church of Santa Maria Maggiore

The route from Treviso to Jesolo along the Sile River

The river just outside the old town of Treviso

The burci cemetery

The church of Casier

The Sile river near Casier

The path through a forest

The church of San Martino in Lughignano

Another section along the river

The church of Casale sul Sile

View of Musestre

The river near Portegrandi

The lagoon at last

The path between the river and the lagoon

Flamingos


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