Tom`s travels: Catalonia and Aragon (05-13/11/2022)

For my 30th birthday, I decided to have a week-long trip in Spain to see a few sites and have the chance to visit my cousin spending his Erasmus in Zaragoza. We took a plane from Berlin and after landing at the Barcelona airport immediately took the local train to the train station Barcelona-Sants. We had a few minutes to spare so we got lunch inside the station and then proceeded to take our train. What surprised me throughout the trip was that to get on the long-distance trains you always have to go through security in Spain which is quite strange and takes quite a bit with the queues and the x-ray scanning. I believe this was made after the past bomb attacks the country suffered in the past years. In just about an hour we then reached the first stop of our trip, the city of Lleida. Once there we exited the station and headed immediately up the hill located at the center of the city where the large Castell de la Suda, originally a Moorish castle later conquered and turned into a medieval and later modern fortress, and the Seu Vella, the old Cathedral. Heading up the hill we noticed the modern 17th and 18th-century walls built around the two buildings as the city was the site of battles both during the Reapers' War and the War of the Spanish Succession. The city, and consequently fortress, suffered attacks during the Napoleonic invasion of Iberia as well as during the Spanish Civil War, the latter of which caused much damage to the city and its inhabitants. Once we reached the top, we then arrived at the Cathedral which we decided to enter and visit. The price was a little hefty, at 7 euros, and quite surprising, as we would find out throughout the trip most other Cathedrals were also paid, unlike in Italy, for example. Currently, it is just a museum, as the cathedral status was moved in 1707 when the building became a barracks and a new cathedral was built down in town. Originally a mosque, starting in 1203 a Romanesque church was then built over it, being then completed in 1278, with the cloister only finished in the 14th century, the bell tower in 1431, and the main exterior portal, the Porta dels Apòstols completed in the 15th century. The building then was mostly Romanesque with several Gothic features. We first ascended the tall octagonal tower, around 60m tall, and from there had a beautiful view over the complex and the surrounding fortress, the city, the barren landscape around Lleida, and the Pyrenees in the distance to the North, with many peaks already snow-capped. Despite the wind felt at the top of the tower, the weather and temperature were perfect, sunny and not cold, I felt pleasantly with just a sweater on. Descending back down, we then walked through the beautiful cloister, with its large ornate windows, which interestingly was placed in front of the church instead of next to it, and is one of the largest in size in the country. Entering then the church proper through the main portal, we came to a long, tall, and rather dark interior, as is typical of the architectural style. As the church was used as barracks from the 18th century onwards, the interior was rather plain and empty but still interesting in its ancient architecture. There were still some traces of medieval frescoes remaining as well as decorated Romanesque capitals and Gothic arches, portals, and decorations. Furthermore, there were also some nice tombs in the side chapels, mostly between the 14th and 16th centuries. Our visit to the cathedral was then complete, and we headed outside during a wonderful golden hour, which as I like about Spain, always happens late, even in winter due to its extreme western location. From the fortress walls, we enjoyed the nice panorama of the city and surrounding landscape. From the hilltop we then descended back down, and walked quickly through the old town, passing by some of the main monuments such as the new cathedral and the city hall. After reaching the train station, we then went through the usual security check and managed then to get our train to Zaragoza, which brought us to our destination in around an hour. We arrived just as the sun was setting, and it was already 6pm. Once in Zaragoza, the main train station was a bit out of the city center, but we had booked an accommodation right between the center and the station so the walk there was not too long. Once at our place, the Pensión La Estrella, we checked in, left our bags, and after a shower headed out into the city for dinner. We opted for Baobab Restaurant, a vegetarian place that had really tasty dishes in a nice elegant setting. We first shared some tacos as an entree, and then as a first course, I had ravioli filled with pumpkin in a cheese sauce, while Ania had falafel in Thai curry.

The following morning, after getting up, I called my cousin and told him to meet us in front of the Aljafería as our plan was to visit it. Once there, after greeting my cousin and asking him about his Erasmus in the city, we found out that as it was the first Sunday of the month, the museum was free but was already fully booked out for the whole day. That was unfortunate so we decided to visit it on the last day in Zaragoza instead. From there we headed towards the city center, passing by the large church of Nuestra Señora del Portillo, and later the 16th-century Renaissance Palacio de los Luna with a really nice portal decorated with the statues of Heracles and Geryon. Moving onwards we walked along one of the main streets and reached then the large plaza de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, dominated by the impressive Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar. The second largest church in the country, after the Seville Cathedral, and one of the largest in Europe, it occupies the whole northern part of the square along the Ebro River, measuring 130 m in length and 67 m in width. Supposed to have been built as a chapel in 40 AD by Saint James, it is considered the oldest church dedicated to Mary. The building was then expanded and reconstructed in Romanesque, then Gothic then Mudéjar styles, before finally taking its size and Baroque form between 1681 and 1872. The main building was in fact completed by 1730 with further additions and expansions around mid 18th century, including the important Holy Chapel inside, while the domes and towers were erected for the most part between 1796 and 1872, and the four main angular towers were not completed until 1961. Once inside we marveled at its size and impressive decoration and headed up close to admire the beautiful main altarpiece made in polychrome alabaster, with a wooden cover between 1509 and 1518. Behind it was then the focus of the building, the Santa Capilla de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, known as the Holy Chapel. Built by Ventura Rodríguez between 1750 and 1765 in a Baroque style to house the column or pillar, hence the basilica's name, on which, according to tradition, appeared Mary to Saint James in the year 40, and which now holds the 39cm tall wooden statue of the image of the Virgin. After visiting the Basilica, we then headed back out into the square and walked to the nearby Lonja a 16th century Renaissance style building once used as an enclosure for economic activities. It is now used as an exhibition hall, and we visited its interior to see a free art exhibition. Next to it we then passed by the Neoclassical Episcopal Palace, and the Cathedral, known as the Seo del Salvador en su Epifanía, which had a mass going on so we decided to come late, Moving onwards we then reached the church of Santa María Magdalena, built in the 14th century in Mudéjar style, a type of ornamentation and decoration used in the Iberian Christian kingdoms, primarily between the 13th and 16th centuries, and applied to Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance architectural styles as constructive, ornamental, and decorative motifs derived from those that had been brought to or developed by the Muslim Al-Andalus. The city of Zaragoza, along with many other centers around the Aragon region, have in fact been inscribed in the Unesco world heritage list for the Mudejar style which developed there. The church of Santa Maria Magdalena in fact presented a typically decorated bell tower in such a style, mostly in brick with green decorations and typical Islamic-inspired motifs and patterns. The interior, on the other hand, was mostly 18th-century Baroque. Next up was the church of the Real Seminario de San Carlos Borromeo, a building hiding a magnificent baroque gilded interior from 1723. Not far from the church, we then reached the Roman Theater, one of the many traces of the ancient Roman town of Caesaraugusta. Built in the first half of the 1st century AD, it had a capacity of 6,000 spectators, and it is in a really well-preserved state, despite many of its materials were used to build walls and other buildings in the city. As it was the first Sunday of the month, entrance to the site was free, and we got to see also the little museum annexed which presented its history and the objects found within during the archaeological excavations. A little walk further brought us to another Mudejar church, that of San Miguel de los Navarros, made in brick with the typically decorated bell tower. The interior held a nice Renaissance altarpiece made of polychrome gilded wood. After that, we went to visit another museum, the Museo de Zaragoza, also free, with a collection ranging from the prehistoric to the modern era and including archaeology, fine arts, ethnology, and Iberian ceramics. The objects and paintings inside were quite nice, as was the nice inner courtyard enclosed by a neo-renaissance patio. Once back out in the streets, we then walked past another Mudejar church, San Gil Abad, which was closed, and started to look for a place to eat as we were getting hungry. We opted for Uh Mami, a vegan place, where Giovanni and I had falafel with taco wraps and Ania had a kind of vegan lasagna. After lunch, we continued our walk through town and visited then the Cathedral, which was paid and required a quite hefty entrance of 9 euros. Built on top of the ancient Roman forum and over the Moorish mosque, the building presents a mix of styles that show its long history. The apse is in fact from the 12th century, its exterior presents a mostly Mudejar style with some gothic additions as well, while the bell tower is baroque and the facade neoclassical. The interior, also a mix of styles, presented a mostly Gothic appearance in its pointed vaults, while the sumptuous chapels and altars were mostly Renaissance and Baroque. The complex was really impressive to marvel at, starting with the main altarpiece with an impressive size of 16 by 10 meters made in alabaster between 1434 and 1480. Then came a series of baroque chapels including the 18th-century one to St Augustine, the late 17th-century San Valero, and the mid-17th-century Chapel of the White Virgin. Also impressive was the alabaster 16th-century Renaissance chapel dedicated to St Bernard. After visiting the beautiful interior of the cathedral, the entry ticket allowed us to go to the museum annexed which presented religious objects as well as a beautiful and impressive tapestry collection, mostly from Belgium and France. After that, we exited the museum, but our ticket still allowed us to climb on top of the northwestern tower of the Basilica del Pilar, from where we then had a splendid view over the city of Zaragoza, the river Ebro below, and the surrounding landscape. Once we had enjoyed the view we went back down to street level and walked across the large square, passing by the church of San Juan de los Panetes, and reaching the western end of town where part of the ancient Roman walls still remain. At that point we then walked over the Puente de Santiago, which crosses over the Ebro River, to admire the city, and especially the Basilica del Pilar, from the other bank. From there we then walked back into the city by crossing over the Puente de Piedra, the only non-modern bridge, dating back to the 17th century after the previous medieval one got destroyed after a flood in 1643. Back in the city we then visited one last museum, the Museo de los Faroles y Rosario de Cristal, located inside a 20th-century church it holds lampposts and floats that parade on the night of October 13 through the streets of the old town of Zaragoza, constituting a deeply rooted tradition that has been followed since 1890 to celebrate the Virgin of the Pilar. The lampposts were really nice, colorful, and decorated, and worth a quick stop. From the museum we had a last stroll around town, passing by two more churches, both of which closed: the baroque churches of San Felipe y Santiago el Menor, Santa Isabel de Portugal, the latter holding a beautifully decorated facade. We then ended the day by heading to a tapas bar called Barrio Sur and had several tasty tapas for dinner, including patatas bravas, tomato, and veggie sauce, mini sandwiches, etc. After dinner, we waved goodbye to my cousin who was off home and told him we would see each other again in two days. From the place we then strolled through the city by night and headed back to our accommodation to sleep.

The next morning, we woke up early and headed to the main train station, Zaragoza-Delicias, where we had booked a car rental for the next two days. Once we managed to get it we then left the city and drove southwards, in the direction of Daroca. As soon as we left the city the landscape changed and we were then driving in a rather endless arid and barren landscape covered in just yellow-grayish wheat fields as far as the eye could see. What surprised me was that despite the landscape seeming quite flat we were actually driving on a high plateau at around 1000m altitude. Around us, mostly to the south and west were the gentle and rounded peaks of the Sistema Iberico, a mountain range that straddles between Aragon and nearby Leon. After about one hour's drive, we reached the town of Daroca, with a signboard at the entrance of town signaling this as a Celtiberian municipality. The town had in fact a long history, but now it's known for its quaint and lovely old town. After parking the car we then entered the town through its eastern gate, the Puerta Alta, one of four medieval city gates part of the walls that encircle the whole old town. Next to it, running along the crest of the surrounding hill was the rest of the walls and several defensive towers, including Torre de la Carretería and the Torre de las Cinco Esquinas, creating a picturesque sight as we approached. After walking through the city gate we walked then on through the main street, noticing that, despite the early hour the town, due to the altitude and closeness to mountains was much colder than Zaragoza. As we walked along we noticed a signboard mentioning the Judaria, where once the local Jews lived before being expelled from Spain following the Alhambra Decree by Isabella and Ferdinand in 1492. Moving on we then reached the main church in town, the Basílica Santa María de los Sagrados Corporales, a nice Romanesque temple expanded during the 16th century. Unfortunately, it was closed so we moved on, heading slightly uphill behind it past another church, San Juan, also closed, but feature an interesting apse considered the first preserved example of the transition from the Romanesque to the Aragonese Mudejar period. Behind it, further up, we then reached the Mirador San Miguel, a nice viewpoint from where we had a great panorama of the old town. From there we also could see the Castillo Mayor, the castle that once stood directly to the north of the old town, and now mostly in ruins, and the outline of the walls that still encircle the town and which are quite impressive due to their well-preserved status and length going around the whole hilly area surrounding the town. Nearby we passed another church, from which the viewpoint took its name, San Miguel, another nice Romanesque structure, also unfortunately closed. Walking onwards we then reached the western end of town where the other impressive city gate, Puerta Baja, is located flanked by two tall thick 15th-century towers. Back into town we then walked through the main street once again, stopping at a local mini supermarket to buy some food to then eat later for lunch. We got back in the car and after about one and half hours drive, again through a mostly barren landscape, came to our next stop, the town Albarracín, picturesquely located in some canyons among a rather mountainous terrain. Before visiting the town though we drove a little further in order to stop at a parking near some wooded hills where I had planned to visit some interesting rock paintings. The parking was quite full but apparently, most people were there because it seemed to be a very nice and popular spot for bouldering. We got off the car and then sat on a rock in the sun surrounded by nice pines to enjoy the food we had bought, a sandwich with olives and a Sevillian thin, crunchy, flaky sweet pastry known as tortas de azeite. After eating we were off to explore the aforementioned rock paintings supposed to be part of the larger Unesco world heritage site, Rock Art of the Iberian Mediterranean Basin. Following a trail through the forest, we reached the typical red rocky terrain of the area, and among some of the boulders we found traces of the paleolithic rock art. The first one was the Abrigo de la Cocinilla del Obispo which featured a series of bulls on the left side and that of a large cattle on the right side of the rock face. Next up was the Abrigo del Arquero de los Callejones Cerrados with an impressive stylized form of a naked archer with a type of hat on top of his head. A little further ahead along the trail, we then reached the Mirador Pinares De Rodeno, a beautiful scenic point with a view over the surrounding tree-covered rocky landscape. From there we then walked back to the car and then drove to nearby Albarracín, where we parked the car right outside the old town. The town is among the most beautiful villages in Spain and started out in the 11th century as a Moorish settlement with its own Berber taifa kingdom, the Taifa of Albarracín. Conquered by Peter III of Aragon in 1284, it then was officially incorporated into the Kingdom of Aragon around 1300. Today its architecture is a clear reflection of that long history and mixing of cultures and, as we noticed a rather popular place even on a November Tuesday. From the street down we then walked up some stairs and entered the old town proper with its picturesque narrow streets, stone houses, and wooden balconies. We reached the small main square, the Plaza Mayor, with its low and simple 16th-century town hall. From there a narrow street led us out of one of the city gates, and to the western edge of town from where we had a beautiful view of the old town on a rocky outcrop formed by the curve of the Guadalaviar River flowing through the canyon. The autumn colors of the leaves with their reds, oranges, and yellows mixed with some still-green trees made the sight even more spectacular. From here we could also make out the impressive set of walls that extended to the north, encompassing a large part of empty rocky land overlooking the city. On the other side, on the southern part of the town, right on the spot where the river forms the curve, was the Cathedral and the castle, or Alcázar, as it was built during the Moorish period. Heading back through town we then reached the Cathedral whose construction began in 1572. Unfortunately, it was closed, as was the nearby castle, and would only open later in the afternoon, though we had other plans to see the next town so we skipped the visit altogether. We moved then on and reached the southern end of town where the Torre de Doña Blanca, one of the medieval towers part of the defensive structure of the town is set. From that spot we then turned around to walk back through town, admiring the picturesque architecture on the way, and reached the car. We left Albarracín and about 40 minutes later reached the last stop of the day, the city of Teruel, regarded as the "town of mudéjar" due to its many sites and monuments representative of that style. After parking the car close to the train station we headed on foot to the city center entering from its southern side by walking up the impressive Escalinata del Óvalo, built in the early 20th century in a colorful and decorated neo-Mudejar style. Behind it, in one of the streets of the old town, was the Tower of the church of San Salvador, a magnificent 14th century Mudejar tower, part of the Unesco world heritage site, and rising high above the rooftops with its glistening decorated tiles among the brick structure. The peculiarity of it was that its lower part formed an archway which the street passed under it. Following that street led us then to the central Torico Square, with the iconic fountain at its center topped by a small bull, hence the name, and nice elegant houses and buildings around the perimeter. Here we stopped at one of the bars and sat outside to relax a bit and enjoy tea for Ania and a Coke for me. After that, we moved on and reached another Mudejar-style monument, the Torre de San Martín, built in 1316 and renovated in the 16th century, when the stone basement was added, featuring the typical brick structure and decorated with greenish tiles. Further on we passed the church of San Miguel next to which were traces of the old city walls and the 16th-century Renaissance Los Arcos aqueduct. Our next stop was the Cathedral, probably the most impressive example of the Mudejar style in the city. Entry was only through a guided tour, in Spanish, so Ania decided to wait outside while I headed inside to visit. The building was constructed starting from a Romanesque church in 1171, with the Mudejar tower already added by 1257. During the 14th century, it was then expanded and modified, and in 1538 the lantern cupola was added. The interior presented an impressive wooden Renaissance main altar from 1536 and some nice Baroque chapels with gilded altars. The Cathedral's highlight though was the Mudejar ceiling, which we then got to see up close by climbing up to the gallery or matroneum. From that point, we had a great view of the beautifully decorated coffered ceiling which has been called the "Sistine Chapel" of Mudéjar art, for its great architectural and pictorial value. Measuring 32 meters in length it dates from the 14th century. In its coffers are paintings of officers, craftsmen, historical figures, fantastic beings, and even Islamic characters, all of which are well preserved because as were covered by a false Neoclassical ceiling in the 18th century, which protected the paintings from inclement weather. After visiting the Cathedral and thanking the kind tour lady, the ticket also granted me access to the nearby Cathedral museum which exhibited some nice religious objects such as gothic altars, crosses, liturgical vestments, etc inside what was once the bishop's residence. After the visit, I then met up again with Ania and we strolled the remaining part of the old town, passing by the church of St Peter, with its nice Mudejar-style bell tower. Below it was a peculiar mausoleum known as the Mausoleo de Los Amantes, which houses the medieval mummified bodies of Isabel de Segura, a wealthy woman, and Diego de Marcilla, a poor man who battled at Crusades to earn some money with the intention to return to get married to Isabel, but whose love ended tragically. We decided not to visit the mausoleum, despite many people coming from all over Spain to visit it. After that it was time to head back; we reached the car and then drove all the way back to Zaragoza parking the car not too far from our accommodation. For dinner, we then decided to head to a place called Ramen Shifu where we had some quite tasty ramen.

The next day, after another early rise, we picked up our car and this time drove northwards towards the city of Huesca, which we reached in less than an hour. Before getting to the city we first stopped at a supermarket to get some food to take with us for lunch later. Once in Huesca, we parked the car and then headed on to explore the city on foot, though that day the weather was cloudy unlike the previous sunny day. Huesca dates from pre-Roman times and started out as the Iberian city of Bolskan. It then became a Roman colony under the rule of Quintus Sertorius and was then known as Osca. The city was then conquered by Moors by the late 8th century when it came to be called Washqah before then being conquered again in 1096 by Peter I of Aragon and eventually tying its history to that of Spain. After reaching the city center we first passed by the Romanesque convent of San Miguel located just outside what were once the walls that once encircled the town. Now not much trace of those defensive structures remains apart from the nearby Torreón del Amparo and part of the walls. Not far ahead we then reached the Plaza de la Universidad where the city's university and the local city museum are located. We entered the museum and happily found out it was free to visit. It is hosted inside two buildings: in a baroque one that was once the Sertorian University of Huesca, featuring an octagonal patio, and in the 12th-century Palace of the Kings of Aragon. The collection inside was quite nice featuring archaeological objects from the pre-Iberian period, as well as ancient Roman ones, all the way to medieval, renaissance, and Baroque paintings. Particularly nice were also the old parts of the Palace of Kings which was built over a previous Islamic tower, the Torre de la Zuda, and developed as a Romanesque building. The rooms were the Throne Room, the Bell Room, where the legend of the Huesca Bell originated, and Queen Petronila's Hall. The latter is a room decorated with Romanesque capitals where, according to tradition, the wedding between Petronila, daughter of Ramiro II of Aragon, and Ramón Berenguer IV, Count of Barcelona, was held. The Bell Room is where the legend of the Huesca Bell originated; a legend describing how Ramiro II of Aragon, the Monk, cut off the heads of twelve nobles who did not obey him. Ramiro II had become so concerned about his nobles abusing his patience that he had them told he wanted help in order to build a bell that could be heard all over Aragón. As the nobles arrived, the king cut off their heads, building a circle with the heads, with the chief noble's head suspended as the bell clapper. After visiting the museum we then walked on and reached the central Plaza de la Catedral, where the Cathedral is set. Begun in the 13th century and terminated in the 16th century it shows an impressive Gothic style with a large main portal from the early 14th century featuring sculptures of saints on the sides and Mary and Jesus at the center. The interior, as impressive as the exterior, featured a beautifully decorated altarpiece made in alabaster in 1520 and nice baroque chapels with wooden gilded altars. Unfrotunately, the annexed diocesan museum was closed for renovations so I could not visit its collection and the room featuring a Mudejar-style ceiling. Moving onwards through the town we then reached another church, the Monasterio de San Pedro el Viejo, erected between 1100 and 1241 in a Romanesque style. We had to pay to enter it, and once inside, explore the little church, with the nice polychrome 17th-century altarpiece. The highlight though was the beautiful cloister built in 1140 and featuring wonderfully decorated column capitals around the whole of its perimeter. To the side of the cloister was also the chapel of St Bartholomew which currently serves as the royal pantheon and contains the tombs of two kings of Aragon: Alfonso I, the Battler, and his brother and successor Ramiro II, the Monk. After the visit, we continued on and visited yet another church, the Basílica de San Lorenzo, built between 1608 and 1703 in a Baroque style with a large gilded altarpiece. We had then completed the tour of Huesca and it was time to head to our next stop, the town of Bolea, about 20 minutes drive from there. Once there we parked the car but as Ania felt a little tired she decided to wait for me in the car while I explore the town on foot. I walked around the narrow picturesque streets and then reached the main monument in town, Colegiata de Santa María la Mayor. The church was built in the 16th century in the Gothic style on the grounds of the ancient Moorish castle palace that served as a defense of Al-Andalus against the Christian kingdoms to the north. The entrance was paid but well worth it as it had a beautiful interior. In fact, each and every side chapel presented a nice polychrome gilded altar, all from the 16th century, and the altarpiece was a masterpiece made between 1490 and 1503 by Gil de Brabante. After visiting the church I then walked up the little hill at the center of town from where, despite the cloudy weather, I could admire a beautiful panorama of the surrounding landscape and the mountains to the north. Back at the car we then drove on to reach the next site, the famous Castillo de Loarre. Despite its renown, as it was used in the 2005 film Kingdom of Heaven, we luckily found it nearly without any visitors. Before heading to visit it though we first had the lunch we had brought with us. Some bread, cucumber, tomatoes, and Jamon for me. After food, we then entered the castle grounds after paying for the entry ticket and were amazed at the size and grandeur of the complex. The castle was built largely during the 11th and 13th centuries, with the building beginning around 1020 when Sancho el Mayor reconquered the surrounding lands from the Muslims and began construction due to the site's strategic position on the frontier between Christian and Muslim lands. Despite being partly in ruins, the castle still stands strong and is considered one of the largest and best-preserved Romanesque fortresses in Europe. The castle's location on a rocky outcrop affected the layout as it was not possible to have one unified structure, and like many castles, Loarre was a collection of buildings bounded by curtain walls. Due to its position on a rocky outcrop, it was impossible for the castle's layout to feature a unified structure, thus, as with many castles, Loarre was composed of various buildings enclosed by curtain walls. Of the many towers part of the complex, apart from the ones connected to the walls, only three survive, the Torre del Homenaje which functioned as a keep, the Torre de la Raina, and the Torre Albarrana which is detached and stands on the slope between the castle and encircling walls. Heading then inside the core of the fortress we visited the buildings that composed the complex including the church of St Peter, the barracks, the church of Santa Maria, and then climbed to the top of the keep from where we enjoyed the great view. After visiting the castle we got back in the car and then drove downhill to reach the nearby village of Loarre where we then visited the church of San Esteban, included in the castle's entry ticket. This 18th-century church featured a nice interior with traces of the previous 16th-century gothic church including the bell tower and one of the chapels and decorated baroque gilded altars. We climbed the bell tower to have a view of the surroundings and Loarre Castle perched on a rocky outcrop in the distance. At that point, back in the car, a short drive took us to the small village of Las Peñas de Riglos known for the Mallos de Riglos, a set of conglomerate rock formations all around the area. These humongous boulders towered above the village and created a magnificent scene as we approached the village. From up close, right below them, the rocky formations looked even more impressive and we then noticed were a popular sight for free climbers who could barely spot them attempting to climb some of the tall pillars. After enjoying that exciting view it was time to drive back to Zaragoza, drop the car off, and end the nice trip driving around Aragon the past two days. Once back in the city, we then met back up with my cousin Giovanni and together headed to eat dinner at La Miguería where we had migas, a dish traditionally made from stale bread, but which in our case was made of a type of cous cous with different toppings. Mine included an egg, peaches, and grapes, while Giovanni took it with octopus and Ania with veggies. Once we had finished dinner we had a stroll around town and waved my cousin goodbye wishing him luck on the rest of the Erasmus.

The next morning, we woke up and before leaving for our train in the late morning, we then decided to visit the Palacio de la Aljafería which we had not managed to see on our second day in Zaragoza. This fortified medieval palace was built during the second half of the 11th century in the Taifa of Zaragoza in Al-Andalus and is the only conserved large example of Spanish Islamic architecture from the era of the independent kingdoms known as Taifas. After the reconquest of Zaragoza in 1118 by Alfonso I of Aragón, it became the residence of the kings of Aragón and then underwent several restructurings that would turn it into a military fortress. It currently houses Aragon's regional parliament but can be partly visited and at specific times when the court isn't in session. Once inside we followed the tour direction and listened to the provided audioguide which detailed the palace's history and described each of the rooms. We started out with the Courtyard of Santa Isabel, an open space planted now with orange trees lined by porticoes with typical intricately decorated Moorish arches. North of the courtyard are the Moorish halls including the Golden Hall and the mosque and oratory all with beautifully decorated arabesques. Heading up to the first floor, the Christian reconquest was evident in the style of the rooms, mostly from the 15th-century Mudejar style, which included minor rooms and the Throne Room with its elaborately decorated ceiling measuring 20 by 8 meters. Once we had visited the whole complex it was time for us to leave. We headed to the Delicias train station and from there eventually took our train to Barcelona. Once there it was lunchtime so we ate at a place not too far from the Sants station called Alive Restaurant where I had a legume soup while Ania had tofu with veggies, plus both of us got a salad and then we shared a dessert. After lunch, we then checked into the accommodation which was very central but the room was a bit too tiny. We then left the apartment and headed on to walk a bit around the city center. We had both visited Barcelona before so we just strolled around enjoying the sites and views. We passed through the Raval neighborhood, past the Plaça del Pedró and the church of Mare de Déu de Betlem, before reaching then the central square where the beautiful Gothic Cathedral and the ancient Roman city gate known as the Portal del Bisbe. Behind it, we then walked under the nice neogothic Pont del Bisbe, past the Basílica of Sants Màrtirs Just i Pastor, and past the Basílica of Santa Maria del Mar. We then headed back and after a bit of strolling decided to head for dinner. We chose the restaurant Sesamo, not too far from the accommodation, where I had ravioli and Ania a cauliflower dish.

The next morning we woke up, had breakfast at the apartment, and then took a metro to the Estació Barcelona Nord where we then took a bus that brought us up along the coast to the town of Tossa de Mar. Once we got off the bus we first stopped at the local supermarket to get some stuff for later and then started exploring the old town. We first reached the main beach, and despite the slight cloud cover, it was still a great sight. From the beach, we then moved to the old town characterized by its typical Mediterranean feel with white houses and yellow stones. We passed the small chapel of Mare de Déu dels Socors and the church of Sant Vicenç. Then we entered the Vila Vella enceinte the fortified medieval part of town, which is also the only remaining example along the Catalan coast. Its present appearance dates back to the end of the 14th century and features battlemented stone walls around its perimeter, four turrets, and three cylindrical towers with parapets as well as a lighthouse on its highest spot where the castle used to stand. We walked through the pretty streets inside, heading then uphill to enjoy the view from the battlements. The sun had started to shine through the clouds which were beginning to dissipate, and even in November, the beautiful blue and green water of the Mediterranean glistened scenically. After enjoying the view we headed back through town and then started our hike in the direction of Lloret de Mar. The trail led us up hilly terrain along the coast, first with low shrubs and prickly pears, and then in the cover of Mediterranean pines and forest. We started to feel the heat and were already in short sleeves after the first climb. After a bit of walking, we finally reached a tiny beach called Cala Llevadó where we had a short break and ate our lunch. As I felt warm enough, I decided to have a quick swim in the frigid yet beautiful waters. There was no one around so I did it naked so as not to wet my underwear and then dry my body faster once outside. From there we then walked along a walkway right by the water and reached a larger beach close by from where we then followed a path through some houses and then back through the forest. We walked on the main road and then some minor country roads until we eventually reached Lloret de Mar. Here we just walked along the waterfront and then through the city, which consists of just apartments and many bars, that obviously during that season were all closed. Then we took a local bus and reached the nearby city of Blanes. We walked to the beach and here climbed a small rocky outcrop right on the water called Sa Palomera which symbolically marks the beginning of the Costa Brava. A monument in the shape of a half arch called "Portal de la Costa Brava", was in fact erected on the spot to mark the beginning of the Costa Brava which extends all the way to the border with France. From there we then headed back through town and climbed up to reach the nice church of Santa Maria built in a Gothic style during the 15th century. We enjoyed the sunset from there and then decided it was time to head back. We reached the train station after a bit of walking as it is located quite far from the city center and then managed to get a regional train back to Barcelona. Once there it was time for dinner so we opted for Avinyó 10 Restaurant where we surprisingly had a really tasty paella, with veggies for Ania and with shrimp and clams for me.

The following day we woke up late as we were planning to just spend the day in the city. I first had a haircut and then we were off to explore. We walked by some of Gaudí's most representative buildings, Casa Batlló and Casa Milà with their peculiar and lavish architecture. Not too far from there we then reached the famous Sagrada Familia, the incomplete church, which was so crowded it was hard to even walk by. The entry price was insanely high so we decided to skip it and instead admire it from the outside, as both of us had already seen it during our respective school trips. It was then lunchtime so we headed back to the city center and then got food at a place called Veggie Garden where I got soup and thali, some rice with bread and sauces in a metal tray a kind of typical Indian dish, and finished off with a little crumble cake in a cup. After lunch, it was time for more visiting and we headed to the Plaça d'Espanya built on the occasion of the 1929 Barcelona International Exposition together with the Venetian Towers and other buildings of the Fira de Barcelona. From there we walked up Montjuïc, a hill just south of the old town, to reach the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya which we then visited. Hosted inside the scenically built Palau Nacional, a huge, Italian-style building dating to 1929. the museum features a beautiful collection of Romanesque art as well as Catalan art and design from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The Romanesque collection is one of the most important in the world and in fact, I marveled at the beautiful church murals dating to the 11th to 13th centuries, many of which once originally adorned rural churches in the Pyrenees and other sites in Catalonia. I also thoroughly enjoyed the Gothic collection with altarpieces, paintings, and other objects from that period. Also nice was the collection of 19th and 20th-century art on the upper floor. We spent quite a bit inside and once we came out the sun was already setting.

In the morning we did our last day trip from Barcelona. We took an early train to the city of Girona and once there from the train station headed to the city center on foot. After a bit of walking, we reached the old town proper and stopped to admire it from a vantage point on a bridge crossing over the Onyar River. Along its eastern bank, the houses were all aligned next to each other and with the Cathedral in the distance on a hilltop and with the bell tower of the Basílica de Sant Feliu jutting out from the rooftops it was quite nice to look at. We walked along the main street and found it surprisingly very clean and with many nice and interesting looking shops. It seemed still a city made for its citizens rather than for tourists like Barcelona. Walking onwards we then reached the aforementioned Basílica de Sant Feliu which required an entry ticket combined with the Cathedral and with an audioguide provided. Its construction started during the 12th century and proceeded all the way to the 17th century giving its current aspect which is mostly a mix of Romanesque and Gothic. Its baroque facade and gothic tall bell tower with a spire were impressive to look at from the outside. Once inside, we found it quite empty and simple, as is typical of its architectural style but noteworthy were the eight ancient Roman and early Christian sarcophagi of the 3rd and 4th centuries, and the Gothic tomb of Saint Narcissus. Right behind the church we then admired the nice Portal de Sobreportes originally an ancient Roman city gate turned into a medieval one. Nearby, past the small church of Sant Lluc which was closed, I then entered the Banys Àrabs, while Ania decided to wait outside for me. Despite the name, these baths were actually built already during Christian rule in the 12th century in a Romanesque style as an imitation of Muslim baths. Obviously, Muslim baths were themselves a development of ancient Roman ones, and in fact, these ones featured the typical rooms such as the frigidarium, tepidarium, and caldarium. From the baths, we then walked a little further and reached the nearby Romanesque Chapel of Sant Nicolau which was closed. In front of it was another Romanesque building, and much larger, the Abbey of Sant Pere de Galligants, originally dating to the year 950 but refurbished around 1130 to its current appearance. Nowadays it is home to the city's Archaeology Museum of Catalonia which we then visited. It featured nice medieval objects inside the premises of the church and included the beautiful Romanesque cloister with its decorated capitals to visit. We were getting hungry so we opted for a place nearby called Chef Guevara where we got some really tasty empanadas while basking in the sunlight on the outside seating. After eating we then walked on the ramparts of the northern walls from where we had a great view of the old town. Back down at street level we then headed back through the main street and up the famous scenic staircase which leads to the city's Cathedral, popularized by the tv series Game of Thrones. The Cathedral's construction was begun in the 11th century in the Romanesque style and continued in the 13th century in the Gothic style which eventually came to take most of its form then. Of the original Romanesque edifice only the 12th-century cloister and the northern bell tower, which is quite hidden, remain. The main bell tower nest to the facade was completed in the 18th century while the baroque facade itself dates to the beginning of the 17th century. The interior, mostly Gothic, which required the ticket we had bought in St Felix, was impressive to look at. In fact, its nave is the widest Gothic nave in the world, with a width of 23 meters, and the second-widest of any church after that of St. Peter's Basilica. Noteworthy were the 14th-century silver altarpiece and canopy and the romanesque bishop's chair as well as several tombs and sarcophagi such as those of Ermessenda of Carcassonne, Ramon Berenguer II, Bishop Berenguer de Anglesola, and Bishop Bernardo de Pau. Through an archway, we then went on to visit the beautiful 12th-century cloister with interesting figures on its capitals and built not in a regular square form but in a trapezoidal one to fit the terrain. Finally, we completed the visit with the small museum that showcased some interesting objects such as the Gerona Beatus, a 10th-century illuminated manuscript, and the impressive Tapestry of Creation, an 11th or early 12th-century piece depicting a series of theological scenes related to the Christian creation myths and considered amongst the masterworks of Romanesque tapestry. From the Cathedral we then continued walking through the rest of the old town, through the maze of alleyways that characterize the ancient Call Jueu, or Jewish quarter. After that, it was time to head back to the train station where we then took a train back to Barcelona. Once there we looked for a place to have dinner and chose Gonzalez & Co where we had some really tasty filled soft nachos and tortilla chips with guacamole. To finish it off we then walked to a nearby churreria where I then took churros with hot chocolate which was really tasty.

The next day, our last of the trip, we woke up slowly and took our time, had breakfast, and then headed towards Montjuïc to see the Museu d'Arqueologia de Catalunya. It was quite small but still had a nice collection of objects found in the city and the surrounding region as well as a nice temporary exhibition on naval and marine archaeology. From there we then walked in the direction of the city center and stopped to check out the church of Sant Pau del Camp. Built in a Romanesque style during the 13th century over a previous one it is quite simple and has a Greek cross plan but still nice to see. A mass was taking place so we could only briefly peer inside though the interior looked quite empty. We then continued on through the old town and eventually reached the port. We walked a little further and then reached Barceloneta Beach, which as it was very sunny and quite warm, was full of people. We hung there for quite a bit enjoying the sun and view as well until it was then time to head back to our accommodation to pick up our bags. Eventually, we then made it back to the airport after taking a bus and from there flew back to Berlin.