Tom`s travels: Georgia (14-30/07/2022)

Ania and I decided to spend a couple of weeks of our vacation visiting the country of Georgia. I flew from Venice while Ania from Berlin, meeting up in Frankfurt where we switched to the direct flight to Tbilisi, Gerogia's capital. After a long flight, we arrived at our destination, around 4am, and after ordering a taxi through the app managed to get into the city and into our accommodation, the Freedom Square Apart Hotel. Once there we immediately went to sleep as we were extremely tired and wanted to still visit some things later in the day. After sleeping the whole morning we then woke up around midday with not much sleep but at least enough to get by the day and still visit something. We left the accommodation and then reached the nearby Freedom Square, one of the main hubs of the city, and the site of various mass demonstrations including those for Georgia's independence, and the Rose Revolution in 2003. From the square, we then moved on walking through the old town and reached another busy square, Vakhtang Gorgasali Square the core of the old town. From here we had a nice view of part of the old town with the Narikala fortress towering above. Behind the square, we then walked over the Metekhi bridge, which crosses over the Kura river, and led us to another square, Europe Square. Here, right on the bank of the river standing on top of a rocky outcrop was the picturesque Virgin Mary Assumption Church of Metekhi, a Georgian Orthodox Christian church built between 1278 and 1289 AD under the reign of King Demetrius II of Georgia. The church was closed so we moved on, walking to the other side of the square where a curious art sculpture was located, a metal tree with a bench and a dog. Then we walked through the nearby park, Rike Park, and crossed over the Kura river on the Bridge of Peace, a pedestrian-only modern bridge from 2010. Walking along one of the pretty old town streets we then came across one of the city's most unusual buildings, the so-called Leaning Tower of Tbilisi. This tower appears to lean quite a bit with only a steel beam to hold it up and features a huge clock in the center and a leaning column on its side. Despite its appeal and seemingly timeless appearance, it is actually a modern tower from 2011 connected to the nearby puppet theatre. We were getting hungry so we decided to look for a place to eat. Of the ones Ania had saved previously, we ended up choosing the Mama Terra Veggie Corner, where I had some kind of fried corn mini pancakes topped with sprinkled cheese dip on top and tomatoes and cucumber on the side. After lunch, we then decided to head on to get a sim card for the whole duration of our stay. We headed to the nearest Magi shop, one of the phone providers in Georgia, and found a whole lot of other tourists waiting to get theirs as well. It took us nearly an hour to get ours but ended up being worth it as we then had plenty of internet and calls for the days we were in the country. After that, we were back to exploring the city, stopping on the way at one of the many random street stalls of old Georgians selling fruit and veggies. We got a few handfuls of cherries for a really cheap price and enjoyed them while on the go. After crossing once more to the other side of the river we reached the aerial tramway station where we then took a gondola lift that quickly took us to the top of the mount just above the old town where the Narikala fortress is set. Once up we had a great view of the old town below and the rest of the city all around. There was also a 20m tall aluminum figure of a woman in Georgian national dress called the Kartlis Deda, or Mother of Georgia. After enjoying the view we then walked back down through the old town passing some nice typical houses with wooden balconies. We walked back to our accommodation for a quick shower before then heading for dinner for Ania's birthday. We got to the place, Living Vino, where I had a burger and we tried several typical Georgian wines, all of which were really tasty. Our favorite though was the amber wine, produced only in the country. After dinner, it was time to head to the thermal baths. We went to Sulphur Bathhouse N°5, one of the many, all located in a specific spot in the old town, as the city was specifically founded there because of the hot springs that run beneath the earth which also inspired its name: in fact, Tbilisi means warm place. We had a whole room to ourselves, with a changing room, and the bath proper with a cold shower and hot tub. Ania then also booked for a scrub, and a tough-looking lady came in, made her undress, and scrubbed her well for quite a bit. We then enjoyed the warmth of the water despite the scorching temperatures of Tbilisis on those days. We finished around 11pm and then finally headed back to the accommodation to sleep, ready for the next day of exploring.

The next day, we woke up early and booked a trip with a known portal used in Georgia, Gotrip which allows you to book a car with a driver to drive you to specific spots for a fixed price. It was really convenient and we ended up using it for many of our visits during the whole vacation. Our driver Gela came to pick us up at our accommodation, and despite not speaking any English, we got along with the little Russian we knew (mostly Ania). Our first stop was the Jvari Monastery, just north of Tbilisi nearly half an hour away from the city center. This important monument is a sixth-century monastery that has largely remained unchanged since its founding. It sits on Jvari Mount at 656m above sea level, dominating the valley created by the Kura River below and the city of Mtskheta, our next stop. Of the monastery complex only the church survived fully intact while the other buildings around are now mostly ruins. The church interior is rather plain and simple featuring a central cupola and a cross plan with the exterior features varied bas-relief sculptures with Hellenistic and Sassanian influences. Together with other historic structures of Mtskheta, the monastery was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1994. After the visit to the monastery, we got back in the car with Gela who then drove us down to the city of Mtskheta, which took me several tries to eventually pronounce correctly. One of the oldest cities in Georgia, for nearly a millennium until the 5th century AD, it was a large fortified city and a significant economic and political center of the Kingdom of Iberia. Because of this, it is considered Georgia's first capital, before King Dachi of Iberia moved the capital from Mtskheta to the more easily defensible Tbilisi in the early 6th century AD. Nowadays due to its historical significance and its several outstanding churches and cultural monuments, the city became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994 and was also declared the "Holy City" by the Georgian Orthodox Church in 2014. Our friendly driver Gela dropped us off next to the old town and we were off to visit the impressive town. We arrived quite early, just as the first souvenir shops were starting to open their stalls. By the look of it, it seemed like the town was quite touristy as the small main street was lined with all kinds of wares catered to tourists. Our first stop was the small Antioch Church, located just to the east of the old town, right next to the river Kura. Dating back to the 4th and 5th centuries its interior, quite small and simple, featured modern frescoes. It is nowadays used as a nunnery and in fact, we noticed a few black-robed nuns walking around. Heading back into town we walked the length of the main street and reached the main monument, the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral occupying a really large area right in the center of town. A masterpiece of the Early and High Middle Ages, it is currently the second largest church building in Georgia, after the modern Holy Trinity Cathedral in Tbilisi. The present cross-in-square structure was completed between 1010 and 1029, although the site itself dates back to the early fourth century and has been used well into the 19th century as the burial place for kings. A notable reconstruction was carried out at the end of the 14th century after it was destroyed by Tamerlane. The next large renovation came at the beginning of the 15th, when the current dome was built, being subsequently renovated again in the middle of the 17th century. Furthermore, the cathedral was then surrounded by a defensive wall during the reign of King Erekle II in 1787. It survived to this day the invasions of Arabs, Persians, and Timurids, and latterly during Russian subjugation and the Soviet period. The legend goes that Elias, a Georgian Jew bought Jesus' robe from a Roman soldier in Jerusalem. Upon returning to Georgia, his sister Sidonia touched the Robe and died. She was buried with it, as it could not be removed from her hands, in the site where the Cathedral is now. An enormous cedar tree grew from her grave and then St. Nino had the tree chopped down and made into seven columns for the original church foundation. St Nino's church was in fact found below the current cathedral during the 1970s. The cathedral interior walls were once fully adorned with medieval frescoes. However, in the 1830s, when Emperor Nicholas I was scheduled to visit Mskheta, Russian authorities razed the galleries and whitewashed timeless frescoes, a move typical throughout the country as we came to learn during our stay, as part of an effort to give the cathedral an appropriate look. In the end, the Czar never even came. Some frescoes still survive to this day, including a 13th-century depiction of the "Beast of the Apocalypse" and figures of the Zodiac. Inside is also a 4th-century stone baptismal font and a mock of the Chapel of Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem built between the end of the 13th and the beginning of the 14th centuries. Svetitskhoveli was not only the site of the coronation of the Georgian kings but also served as their burial place, with ten kings known to have been buried here, although only six tombs have been found. After visiting the impressive Cathedral, we then left the complex and headed on to visit the rest. On the way to the next site, we noticed a limping dog, who followed us for quite a while. Ania decided to head to a nearby market to get him something as he was really young and thin. I waited in the shade with the dog first looking at me and then lying right next to me. She came back with sausages which we gave him and he ate really quickly. He then followed again for a bit hoping for more food but eventually seeing we didn't have anything else, he gave up. We on the other hand reached the Samtavro Monastery, another important monument. Built presumably in the 4th century, and reconstructed in the 11th century it is a complex that combines the main church, a nunnery, and a small church dedicated to St Nino. The dome was reconstructed between the end of the 13th and the beginning of the 14th century and the bell tower was added in the 16th century while no original frescos survive with new ones painted in the 16th and 17th centuries. Inside the church are the tombs of King Mirian III and his wife Nana, however, we could not see much as there was a mass going on and we could only admire from the threshold. Once we were done visiting it was time to head back to Gela and the car. He then drove us to the city of Gori located about an hour westwards. Once there, he dropped us off close to the city center and we started exploring. The city is known for being the birthplace of Joseph Stalin, with many tourists coming specifically here to visit the museum dedicated to him. However, we thought it weird to have a museum dedicated to such a controversial figure and were here to visit the city instead. We first passed by the museum and briefly stopped to see it from the outside without heading inside. The two things that we could see and surprised us were Stalin's house, a small wooden hut that was preserved and exhibited here, and Stalin's personal green railway carriage. Moving on we then passed by the Cathedral, which wasn't open, and then the city's main monument, the Gori Fortress, located on top of a rocky hill right in the middle of the city. Originally dating to the 13th century it took its current form between the 17th and 18th centuries. Nowadays only the two sets of walls survive, but it was nonetheless nice to hike up to the top from where we had a great view over the city below and the surrounding landscape. Despite a bit of summer haze and a few clouds, we could spot the snow-capped mountains to the north contrasting with the partly barren and desertic brownish hills around the city. After the visit to the fortress, it was time to look for a place to eat. We walked around a bit and then also found a money exchange booth which had a really favorable exchange rate, we changed some cash and then eventually found a place called Cafe 22 where we had lunch. I had an interesting milky soup with dumplings in a tiny clay pot. After eating it was time to head back to the car, driving then on to the last stop of the day, the nearby settlement of Uplistsikhe. We reached the place in just over 20 minutes drive. This ancient rock-hewn town was built on the high rocky left bank of the Mtkvari River and is considered one of the oldest urban settlements in the country. It features structures dating from the Early Iron Age to the Late Middle Ages and is notable for the unique combination of various styles of rock-cut cultures from Anatolia and Iran, as well as the co-existence of pagan and Christian architecture. Its history began in the I-II millennium B.C. growing during the Hellenistic and the late Antique periods and reaching its heyday between the 9th and 11th centuries before being ravaged by Mongols during the 13th century. Once there we bought the entry ticket and followed the path in order to try to see the whole area. The layout of the place, more of an open-air museum, was really interesting as rather than actual structures it consisted of caves that had been dug out or modified in order to obtain buildings suitable for a settlement. In order to get up to the central area we took a cool narrow rock-cut pass which seemed like a really long tunnel, once used to also get water from the nearby river, that eventually led us up to the settlement area. The higher part of the town is where the main structures and caves are located. Among the structures in town, the pillared hall with two adjacent rooms is one of the most important. Its ceiling was supported by two pillars and a stone bench probably served as a ruler's seat. The majority of the caves/structures don't feature any decorations, while some of the larger structures have coffered tunnel-vaulted ceilings, reminding me a bit of the ancient Roman structures. Some of the larger structures also have niches in the back or sides, which may have been used for ceremonial purposes. The only actual building in the whole settlement was the 10th-century Christian basilica built in brick and stone located on the summit of the town. from there we had a beautiful view of the caves around us, the river below, and the whole surrounding panorama. Interestingly the weather wasn't as warm anymore as there was a strong breeze blowing continuously which also explained the mostly barren landscape, with trees growing only along the river's banks. As we walked around the site we then noticed some funny-looking lizards which seem to be native to this area and central Asia known as sunwatchers, or sunwatcher toad-head agama. They were quite large and not really afraid to come quite close to us so I managed to take some good shots of them. After walking around some more and exploring even the tiniest of caves it was time to head back. We left through another route circling around the settlement and passing by the traces of old wine presses, some of the oldest in existence. After reaching the car, Gela then finally drove us back to Tbilisi and after thanking him and saying goodbye we headed to the accommodation to shower and change. For dinner, we chose a place we had walked past the previous day, Ezo, a lovely restaurant in a small courtyard with open-air seating and really tasty food. I had the grilled shashlik with a typical Georgian green sauce, bread, and onions on the side. After dinner, we then decided to stroll around the old town for a bit before heading back to sleep ready for the next day.

The following morning we decided on another day trip using the same service, Gotrip, with another driver, Shalva. He was older and also didn't speak English, but nonetheless, with the little Russian we had found him very friendly. So after leaving Tbilisi around 8am, we drove east, and after about two hours, reached the first donation of the day, the Bodbe Monastery. We arrived just as the place was opening, and while Shalva waited in the car, we then went inside to visit the complex. Originally built in the 9th century, it was later refurbished, especially during the 17th century. Currently, it functions as a nunnery and is one of the major pilgrimage sites in Georgia, due to its association with St. Nino, the 4th-century female evangelist of Georgians, whose relics are shrined inside. What is really nice about the place is that it sits on a steep hillside overlooking the Alazani Valley and with views of the Greater Caucasus mountains in the distance. We first visited the old building, the three-naved basilica, made of brick during the 9th century and as mentioned modified during the 17th century. Its interior featured some frescoes but we didn't manage to take pictures as it was forbidden and they were constantly walking around looking. Right next to the church, a tall bell tower was built at the request of the Czar Alexander I of Russia in the 19th century. Also on the large opening in front of the church, a much larger church was just being completed, which looked really impressive from the outside, while the interior felt empty and modern. After visiting the monastery Shalva then drove us to the nearby town of Sighnaghi, a jewel set on the hills, just like the monastery overlooking the splendid panorama. We got dropped off in the center and then walked around exploring the old town. It featured picturesque landscapes, pastel houses, and narrow, cobblestone streets, and despite being very touristy was quite empty maybe because of the early hours. At the center of town was a nice square with a fountain at its center and nice buildings around. Nearby was also a terrace from where we could observe the picturesque core of the old town with the spire of the church of St George, the medieval walls, the typical wood and brick houses, and the mountains in the background. We then headed in that direction, walking through the nice gate part of the medieval walls which led us into the oldest part of the town. The church was closed so we then headed back from where we came. Some of the houses particularly in the southern part of town were really beautiful with these wooden balconies jutting out on the street creating a picturesque sight. The town is known for having many places serving typical wines from the region around, Khakheti, but as it was still rather early for it and we were nonetheless driving to a winery later we decided to skip it for now. After heading back to the car we then drove on to the next stop, Nekresi. From Sighnaghi, located at around 836m above sea level, we then drove down into the vast Alazani Valley oriented northwest to southeast and straddling over into nearby Azerbaijan. The valley on the Georgian side occupies a large part of the Khakheti region and is known for its wines, making it the prime wine region of the country due to its climate and terrain. We drove to the other side of the valley and reached the aforementioned Nekresi Monastery. Located on top of a hill at the foothills of the Greater Caucasus mountains, this historic site can only be reached with a minibus. So after parking the car down at the parking lot we waited with a few other old people from the area and a couple of other tourists for the little bus to come down, pick us up, and bring us to the site. Once there we started exploring the place. The monastery is part of the larger historic site of Nekresi, once a flourishing town of Late Antiquity with a sun temple located on the plain below and a few other buildings scattered around the surrounding hilly area. The monastery itself was constructed starting in the 6th century and consists of a three-church basilica and a mortuary chapel both from the original construction, a centrally-planned church built in the 8th or 9th century, and a bishop's palace of the 9th century, as well as a 12th-century refectory, a 16th-century defensive tower, and remains of storehouses and other accessory structures. We started by visiting the Dormition Basilica first with some nice frescoes inside from the 16th century and then moved on to see the church of the Archangel which was empty inside. Another interesting feature was the wine cellar of the bishop's palace which featured a number of circular holes in the pavement. These were the famous Kvevri or Qvevri, earthenware vessels resembling large, egg-shaped amphorae without handles, either buried below ground or set into the floors of large wine cellars and used for the fermentation, storage, and aging of traditional Georgian wine. They are typical of the Khakheti region and can be found everywhere, spreading now to other areas of Georgia as well. We walked then around the complex and admire the nice view over the Alazani valley. Then the bus came back to pick us up and we all descended back to the car. After that, we drove a little more and reached Gremi, a historic site on a little hilltop, once the capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti in the 16th and 17th centuries. It functioned as a lively trading town on the Silk Road and royal residence until being razed to the ground by the armies of Shah Abbas I of Persia in 1615. After that, it never regained its past prosperity and the kings of Kakheti transferred their capital to nearby Telavi in the mid-17th century. The site now consists of a keep and the Church of the Archangels surrounded by walls. Once there, Shalva parked the car and waited for us while we walked up the short hill to reach the citadel. A baptism was just terminating so we decided to walk through the small courtyard first, admiring the citadel first, which consisted of a tall thick tower keep and the walls around it. After the baptism was done we then visited the church, constructed in 1565 and frescoed by 1577. Most of the frescoes are gone either from the passage of time, from the Persian attack, or from the typical Russian whitewashing later in the 19th century. After visiting the complex we then headed out and drove to the nearby village of Gremi where we had booked a wine tasting and lunch at a local winery called Temi Community. This place is a social enterprise and is home to approximately 70 people some of which with mental disabilities, young people from the orphanage who no longer have any social support after their compulsory schooling, people in need of help from broken families, and carers that help and support them. Once there we met with Susanna, an older lady from Switzerland who is also one of the caretakers. She showed us around the winery, where they have several Qvevri vessels buried and fermenting the wine. Then she let us sit down on the nice open patio and brought us four wines to try. Our favorite was the amber wine, a local specialty and really tasty. Then the food came, and we were brought around 10 dishes. Jonjoli salad, khachapuri bread with cheese, potatoes, cucumber and tomato salad with walnut paste, eggplant with walnut paste, bread, cheese, beef stew, and shashlik. It was super tasty but definitely too much for the two of us so we thought to call over Shalva and ask him if he maybe wanted to eat with us too. He at first was not sure but then accepted, starting with just having a bit of the bread but after some convincing ate also the rest. After the great lunch, we thanked Susanna and the others and got back in the car to drive to the next destination. We reached the Alaverdi Monastery located in the open flat countryside right by the Alazani River. Originally dating to the 6th century, the present-day cathedral was built in the 11th century and was damaged then many times by earthquakes. The first great restoration took place during the 15th century when the dome was completely restored. In 1742 another earthquake damaged it and a following restoration took place. Nowadays the site features a central church surrounded by tall thick walls giving it the impression of a fortified citadel. As the monastery is one on the more conservative side, not only women had to cover themselves when entering, but also men had to wear long pants and sleeves. The little souvenir shop right by the entrance had several pairs to lend for visitors entering so I wore some overside black pants over my shorts and just pulled down the sleeves of my shirt. The church's dome reaches a height of over 55m, making it the second tallest in the country. The interior is quite large and spacious and features some traces of frescoes, those that managed to survive the usual passing of time and Russian whitewashing. After the visit to the complex, it was time to head to the last place on the trip, the nearby town of Telavi. Once there we got dropped in the city center, right next to the town's main monument, Batonis Tsikhe. Literally, the castle of Batoni, which is the Georgian word for master or lord, the complex consists of a square-shaped fortress surrounded by low walls, with at its center the royal palace and chapels. The original palace was built at the behest of King Archil of Kakheti during the 17th century. Following political turmoil, the palace was damaged and reconstructed several times during the same century and the following one. Its design and structure, due to the final reconstruction under King Erekle II, are rather different from other palaces in the country and in fact, were modeled on Safavid palaces from Persia. We walked around the castle grounds but didn't head inside the palace itself as it could only be visited on a guided tour. Instead, we decided to head back out into town and explore some more. As we walked around we spotted a sign leading to a small family winery, the Rostomaant Marani. It looked like a normal house and when we entered the front yard, two men were talking sitting on a pair of chairs. We asked if this was the winery and one of them, the owner invited us inside his cellar. We sat down and he proceeded to bring a few bottles of wine, together with some bread and homemade jams. We tried a bit from each bottle, and then some more, while the other man and the owner talked to us. The owner spoke some English, while the other man was just speaking to us in Georgian. The owner translated and we had a fun time conversing this way, in the meantime cheering and drinking at each new phrase. After the tasting, we thanked the owner, paid him the due, and then waved goodbye to him and the other man. We had then one last stroll through the rest of town before heading back to the car and Shalva who then drove us all the way back to Tbilisi. Once there we thanked him kindly and headed to our accommodation. We just got some fruit and veggies to eat at home as we were still full from the large lunch and the plenty of wine.

The following day we woke up really early as we had booked an organized tour with the local travel company, Friendly.ge. The meeting point was at 8:30 at Europe Square. Once there, we met up with the tour organizer Alex, a Russian who is also one of the owners, and Iona, a Georgian. We were apparently split into two 6 people groups into two 4x4 wheel cars. Two old Mitsubishi Delicas, one an older model than the other, which were apparently very common as off-road cars in Georgia. We were in the newer model, which had a fully functional AC while the other only partly, and were with the guide Iona, the driver Atchiko, and two ladies from South Africa. Once we were all full, we got in the car and drove on towards our destination, back in the Khakheti region, this time in its southern part. On the way, we stopped close to the industrial city of Rustavi where we got something to eat for breakfast. Then we were off, at one point leaving paved roads to drive off-road, eventually reaching Mravaltskaro Lake in the middle of a desertic landscape. Here we got off the cars and started walking up a hilly territory eventually getting to a point where we could observe the famed Rainbow Mountains, a series of tall hills composed of clays, sandstones, and other minerals which give them these red, brown, gray and other hues. After walking a loop we got back to the cars and once inside drove on to reach the Natlismtsemeli Monastery, located on top of one of the hills. Unfortunately, as we got there, our car could not manage to drive all the way up the rocky and steep terrain full as it was, while the other Delica easily managed. So we got off and walked the last couple hundred meters. Once inside we were greeted by a monk, one of the few who permanently live here, fully isolated from society which just occasional visits from friends and family or from tourists like us. The monastery, dedicated to St John, consists of a central church and numerous caves once used as churches and temples. We first hiked up to reach the watchtower located on the rocky part above the complex, it was partially ruined and the entrance was so low that we had to crawl to get inside. From the top, we had a great view of the surrounding semi-desertic landscape. Then heading back down we stopped to observe one of the caves, looking quite abandoned with broken furniture, some traces of decorations and frescoes, and the graffiti of Soviet soldiers that were once stationed there. We then entered the church, half of which was a proper building, the other half built inside the rock. Originally dating to the 7th century, the main structure is from the 12th century, as well as some of the traces of frescoes left, while the rest of the decor including the iconography is from the 18th century. After seeing the interior we thanked the monk, got back in the cars, and then drove on to the next monastery, the David Gareja monastery complex. Also consisting of a rock-hewn monastery, this one is much more famous and more easily accessible than the previous one. Located on the border with Azerbaijan it stretches over the surrounding hill, and as it has become subject to a border dispute between the two countries only the main part can be visited, while the caves up at the top are now inaccessible and constantly guarded by the military of the two countries. Founded in the 6th century it was then further developed during the 9th and then between the 11th and 13th centuries when the monastery reached its highest economic and cultural development. The interior was fascinating with several cells, churches, chapels, refectories and living quarters hollowed out of the rock face. We walked through the complex and admire the architecture while listening to Iona explain the history to the whole group. After the visit, we then got back in the cars and drove to the nearby village of Udabno where we stopped at a place called Oasis Club, owned by a Polish couple who had basically revitalized the whole village, developed tourism in the area, and now do all kinds of things from organized tours to renting huts and cabins, and to owning the hostel/restaurant where we stopped for lunch. We had really tasty food and then moved on to the last stop of the trip. We had a break at the KTW Winery, one of the largest in the country, where we stopped for some wine tasting. One of the young friendly owners brought us to the wine tanks in the large warehouse from where we could then taste several wines directly from the tap. Some of them were quite tasty while others were not so much. After the nice break, it was time to head back to Tbilisi. Once there said goodbye to the group and see you soon to the organizers as the following day we would have another tour with them. We then strolled through town looking for a place to eat and opted for the Kiwi Vegan Cafe, where Ania had a tofu and veggies bowl while I had a veggie wrap.

The next morning, again after an early rise, we met up with Friendly.ge at the usual spot on Europe Square and this time went inside the older Delica car as Alex had told us the offroading would be even tougher than the previous day. Of the previous group only one person, Marina, a Belarussian lady was with us, while all the others were different. In the car with us were a South African teacher, and two German girls. We left the city and after some driving reached a spot along the road with a few kiosks and souvenir shops from where we had a beautiful panorama of the Zhinvali Reservoir a man-made structure holding the waters of the Aragvi River, surrounded by green mountains. From there we then drove onwards following the main road winding its way northwards and up through the tall mountains that form the border with Russia. Eventually, we reached the village of Gudauri where a ski resort, the most popular in the country, is set. Obviously, without snow, the place was rather deserted but the main ski lift was functioning for tourists. We bought the ticket and then after a switch halfway, reached the Kobi Pass. From the base station at around 1993m, we reached the 2946m above sea level of Kobi Pass. From the top which I had expected to be much colder, but which was extremely windy, we had an amazing view of Mount Kazbek and the surrounding peaks. Despite the clouds covering the tip, it was nonetheless great to see the snowcapped peaks, with Kazbek's one reaching 5,034 m making it the third highest in the country. After enjoying the view we then took the lift heading in the other direction, down into the village of Almasiani where we met up with the cars and those who hadn't come up the mountain with us. Here we then followed a treacherous road through the Truso Gorge with rocks the size of wheels and overhanging the Terek River, which curiously eventually ends up in the Caspian Sea. The road was really tough and at several points, we were right on the edge with the car titled nearly 45 degrees right above the river. We even met some cars coming from the opposite direction as it was the only way in and out and our driver was really great at managing the whole way. Eventually, we came out of the gorge and into an open area, the Truso Valley with lush greenery all around. There was a little cafe that serves hikers and campers who come to the area for really nice walks. We left the car there and hike a short way among beautiful colored flowers to reach the nearby Abano Lake, a tiny mineral lake where people had stopped to take a dip in its freezing water. Its waters in fact create small red rivulets due to the minerals contained in the surrounding soil. Far in the distance, looking eastwards I could make out the shape of some old medieval towers belonging to the villages of Ketrisi and Abano and contrasting with the snow-capped peaks right above them. Too bad we didn't have time to head there as that would've been a really cool hike. Once we headed back to the car we then drove back through the gorge and on to the next destination, the town of Stepantsminda. This mountain town, once known as Kazbegi, right on the border with Russia at 1740m above sea level is very popular due to being surrounded by beautiful mountains including the imposing Kazbek. Once in town, we first stopped for lunch at the Restaurant Panorama Kazbegi where I had a good shashlik. From there we then drove up a nearby mountain which usually is serviced by a paved road but since 2021 due to a landslide it has been inaccessible and so the only way up is offroading. The way was tough and rocky and we even saw normal cars trying to go up eventually destroying their suspensions and other things as well. After a bit, we then made it up and reached the parking lot which was funnily full of Delicas like ours. Here was the Gergeti Trinity Church, located at about 2170 meters, right under Mount Kazbek so obviously a very touristy spot. Built in the 14th century the church features a typical central planned church with a tall cupola and detached thick bell tower. Its iconic view on top of a mountain and with the view of the mountains and of Kazbek is one of the best examples of the harmonic combination of architecture and the landscape, so typical for the architecture in the country. After visiting the church's interior we admired the beautiful surrounding panorama and then took some photos from a distance of the church surrounded by mountains. There was a bit of cloud cover but the peak of Kazbek was now in sight and really magnificent to look at. It was then time to go; we got in the car and then drove down to Stepantsminda, and southwards along the main road. On the way, we briefly stopped at some interesting Travertine Mineral Springs right next to the road. Continuing onwards we arrived close to Gudauri again, stopping along the road to see the Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument built in 1983 to celebrate the bicentennial of the Treaty of Georgievsk and the then ongoing friendship between Soviet Georgia and Soviet Russia. Inside the monument is a large tile mural that spans the whole circumference of the structure and depicts scenes of Georgian and Russian history. The monument is very popular and is obviously now quite controversial, especially after the Russian invasion of Georgia in 2008 and the fact that two regions, Abkhazia and South Ossetia are still self-proclaimed territories not part of the country. One very strange thing about the place was also that it was full of Arabic visitors and many kiosks and huts on the side of the road next to the monument promoted halal food and barbecues. After the brief stop, we were back in the car and onwards towards Tblisis, after quite some driving we then had the last stop of the day, Ananuri located on the western shore of the Zhinvali Reservoir. This castle-like complex consists of two churches encircled by walls with high towers. We entered the impressive complex which seen from afar creates a picturesque setting with the waters of the reservoir and the surrounding lush green mountains. We walked around the inner courtyard admiring the view and the two churches from the outside, both from the 17th century. Unfortunately, we realized later that the site was just about to close so we only had time to see it from outside without being able to enter the churches as the custodians, two ladies ushered out without many compliments. Nonetheless, it was a great stop and worth admiring the beautiful structure of the castle. Finally, after a short drive, we reached Tbilisi where we were dropped off. We thanked Alex and the team for those two great day trips and then headed off for dinner. We stopped right by our accommodation at a restaurant called Pasanauri, which was also a chain suggested by Alex, where I finally tried the typical Georgian dumplings, the Khinkali. They were tasty but not my favorite among Georgian dishes.

The next day, our last in Tblisis, was dedicated to visiting the city proper. We woke up later, having to catch some sleep from the previous early wake-ups. We still had another tour with Friendly.ge which was included in the package. It was a walking tour of the city with the nice and friendly Khatuna. She first led us across the Kura River on the Bridge of Peace to the nice park on the other side. Then back through the old town showing us the main sights again. We also stopped to see a small archaeological museum that holds some Roman baths, a cellar, and ruins of some other buildings found under a church. Nearby we then walked through the Abanotubani neighborhood characterized by the brick domes of the bathhouses that pop out of the earth like molehills. The many bathhouses dotting the area had all different styles, ranging from the typical Ottoman brick ones to the opulent Chreli-Abano looking like a Timurid Renaissance Islamic building like those found in Iran or Uzbekistan. A little onwards we walked through the nice Leghvtakhevi Canyon at the end of which was the nice waterfall, the Leghvtakhevi Waterfall which forms then the river flowing down the gorge and through the bathhouses. Khatuna then finished the tour at the nearby lovely Meidan Bazar, an underground little market that sold all kinds of typical stuff for tourists. After waving goodbye to our guide we explored the rest of the city. We first took some steps heading to the upper part of the old town, passing by the Lower and Upper Bethlehemi churches both of which were closed. The former was built in the 14th century and rebuilt then in the 19th century and functioned as an Armenian church until 1991 when it underwent a heavy process of "Georganization", during which time all evidence of Armenian religious iconography was destroyed or removed and was replaced with Georgian ones. The upper one, built in the 18th century over a previous church, also suffered the same fate going from an Armenian religious building to a Georgian. Walking onwards we passed some nice wooden houses and buildings and stopped to admire the nice view over the city from a terrace filled with plants and flowers. A little further we then followed a ramp leading up to the Narikala fortress as the last time we were there we hadn't managed to visit it properly. Once on top, we visited the church of St Nicholas newly built in 1997 to replace the 13th-century church that was destroyed by a gunpowder explosion during the Soviet era when a Russian garrison was stationed at the castle and the church was used as a gunpowder magazine. After seeing the church interior we got up on the fortress walls for a nice view over the city. Then we walked back down into the old town and stopped to visit Saint George's Church, one of the two functioning Armenian churches in Tbilisi out of around 26 that were once in the city for the Armenian community. Founded in the 13th century it was refurbished in the 17th century, and then again in the 19th century. The interior featured late 18th-century paintings as well as more modern ones from the beginning of the 20th century. Next up we visited another church, the Sioni Cathedral, initially built in the 6th and 7th centuries, the current church is based on a 13th-century version with some changes from the 17th to 19th centuries. The interior is quite rich and appealing and features paintings and murals from the 19th century which mostly replaced medieval frescoes. After the visit to the Cathedral, we walked a little further and visited the Anchiskhati Basilica, the oldest surviving church in the city. Dating to the 6th century, with refurbishments occurring in the 15th through 17th centuries, it is the only church in a traditional basilica form instead of the cross-in-square typical around the country. The interior frescoes dated to the 17th century in the apse while all others were from the 19th century. Next up, we left the old town and headed to the new town, dating mostly to the 19th and 20th centuries. Here we then visited the Georgian National Museum, with the main building holding the archaeological exhibitions. After paying the entry ticket, we visited the nice large collection which included a gold hoard from the 5th century BC exhibiting unique examples of jewelry and decorations blending local Georgian and ancient Persian motifs. Then we visited a couple of rooms that had a nice showcase of drawings by the Italian Theatin priest Cristoforo Castelli who, traveling around the country in the mid-17th century made some drawings of the architecture and the people of the region. Finally, a large room was dedicated to the more recent history of the country, from the Bolshevik revolution onwards including the recent Russian invasion and occupation of two territories, Abkhazia and South Ossetia. After visiting the museum it was time for dinner, we opted for the Pasaunari restaurant, this one located on the northern side of the old town right by the only remaining parts of the medieval walls. The food was good but the service was terrible as it took them really long, often thinking they had forgotten us, and bringing the dishes at completely different times and even the wrong one at first. We then headed to the accommodation, sleeping in early as the next day we had a train to catch.

The following morning after an early rise we booked a Yandex, a kind of Uber, and traveled to the main train station where we then got on the train that would take us to the seaside city of Batumi, on the other side of the country. The travel time was about 5 hours, with a modern yet quite slow train, as the distance is just over 370km. Batumi's long-distance train station was quite far outside the city so we had to order a Yandex to the city. Once there we first checked in our accommodation, Hotel Terrace, close to the old town. The place was a bit run down and our room smelled a lot of smoke. We complained to the owner but they didn't have any other rooms available so we left the window open trying to air the place out and got at least a discount. We also found later that evening that the mattress was terrible with the lower half literally sinking to just a few mere cm. After airing out the room we then headed out to visit the city. The weather was completely different from Tbilisi. It was constantly raining, that light drizzle typical of the Black Sea coast, and the temperature a whole 10 degrees lower. Nevertheless, we still enjoyed the city and its impressive contrasts, the small old town with old and low buildings and the super modern seafront with immense skyscrapers and many cranes hinting at a whole array of new ones under construction. What also impressed us was the lush greenery that dotted the city and the surrounding area, a telltale from the city's weather. As the rain was a bit too much for our taste we decided to head back to the accommodation, and rather than spending time looking for a place for dinner we resorted to getting a khachapuri with some veggies and fruit to eat at our place.

The next day, again with rain this time not as strong as the day before, we decided to head back to the city to explore. First, we had brunch at the Go Vegan Cafe where I took an açaí bowl with fruit and granola. The walking along the shorefront we passed the city's main landmarks like the Batumi Octopus, a mosaic sculpture, the Japanese Garden, the Sheraton Hotel, inspire the Lighthouse of Alexandria, the 145m high Alphabetic Tower, celebrating Georgian script and writing, the small lighthouse, and the statue of Ali and Nino. This last sculpture consists of a figure of a woman and of a man constantly turning and occasionally crossing through each other. "Ali and Nino" is a famous 1937 novel by Kurban Said, an Azerbaijani author. It is about a love between a Muslim boy Ali and a Georgian princess Nino. Although they had different religions, they overcame all difficulties and married. However, they were separated by Soviet Russia's invasion of Azerbaijan. When Ali had to choose between his family and country, Ali chose to die bravely for his country and so the statue celebrates that story. From there we then decided to take a Yandex to the Batumi Botanical Garden, located several kilometers north of the city right on the seafront. Once there we bought the tickets, which were rather expensive, and walked around the beautiful park, located on the hilly cliffside overlooking the sea. Due to the rain, greenery, and types of trees, it felt like being in a tropical forest or Jurassic Park. Despite the hefty prices it was still really nice and kept us busy and entertained and fit, as we walked quite a lot, for a couple of hours. Once we had done a nice round of the garden we then decided to visit the nearby beach. The weather was a bit cold for a swim, but as the sun peered slightly through the clouds it made it quite pleasant to stay there. We then decided to head back into the city, this time taking a local marshrutka, a kind of bus van which for a few coins brought us back to Batumi. Here we had another stroll through the old town and the seafront once more as there were just a few clouds and the sun was shining occasionally in fact the city beach had filled up quite a bit. After enjoying the view and weather for a while we then headed back into the city, crossing the large main square, Europe Square, surrounded by nice and elegant buildings, and then started to look for a place to have dinner. After a bit of looking around and discarding the majority we opted for a restaurant called Barakoni where I had a super tasty beef stew and then shared a great mixed grilled veggies. Then we were off to sleep early as we had an early rise the next day and a long drive ahead of us.

The following morning, obviously the sun was out. We had breakfast and then as we had booked a transfer from Batumi to Mestia found out we would have a driver take us to Samtredia first, and from there switch cars and join some more people coming from Kutaisi and headed to Mestia. We left a still-sleeping city and after nearly two hours got dropped off in Samtredia. Here, apparently, the group had already arrived and was waiting for us. As we got off the car I asked if I could quickly go to the toilet as we still had a long drive ahead of us, but a really rude old German lady passenger said no and that they had waited enough as if she was the one deciding. After over six hour's drive, and just one bathroom break, we finally reached the mountain town of Mestia located at about 1500m above sea level and deep in the Caucasus mountains. Once in town, we got off the car and then headed for our accommodation, the Sana Guest House. The owners were not there and after calling them they told us an old lady, their neighbor, would let us in. She didn't speak any English nor really any Russian but she looked nice and kind and showed us inside. The place was nice and on the northern side of town with also a great view of the mountains to the south. After unpacking our stuff we then headed out for lunch and chose Lile one of the many restaurants located around the central main square. Here I had a really tasty Tashmijabi consisting of mashed potato mixed with a lot of melty local cheese. After that, as the weather was quite cloudy we decided to have a walk around town. The weather forecast had predicted rain for the whole four days we were spending there. Luckily though it turned out great for the most part and much warmer than the 10-15 degrees that had been forecast. We walked around the town center and then across a bridge over the Mestiachala which created an impressive gorge. From the other side on top of a low hill, we could then admire the beautiful stone defensive towers, known as Svan Towers, which dominated the surrounding countryside. These medieval stone towers which had both defensive and residential functions were used by the local Svan communities who adapted to life in mountain regions. Once Mestia was full of them but now many have disappeared and only some remain with most of them located out in the surroundings. We walked around the town admiring the different views and then headed back to the accommodation for a short nap. Then for dinner, we chose to eat at a place called the Blue Mountains where I took a cheese platter, lobio (a bean stew) and then shared red beet with Ania who had also taken eggplant rolls and cabbage, plus both red wine glass. The place was nice but the food was just decent and not the best for me.

The next day we woke up at sunrise, before 8am, and decided to do a day hike and head eastwards. We left town, heading on a path that marks the first stage of a long-distance hike that heads all the way to Ushguli, another Svan town with the typical medieval towers located at 2100m at the foot of Shkhara, Georgia's highest mountain. Due to its rather inaccessible location, the town has maintained most of its medieval character and is an alluring place for tourists and hikers alike. We were not planning to walk the entire route as that would take multiple days, but instead wanted to walk the first stage and then head back to Mestia. The sky was mostly covered in clouds that morning, which helped keep the temperatures lower as we started a slow ascent. We reached then a small pass across the hill from where, turning around, we could admire Mestia down in the valley in the distance. Continuing onwards, we could see to our left through the clouds a bit of snow from the surrounding peaks, imagining how nice it would be on a sunny day. At one point we reached another viewpoint from where we could see the next valley below in front of us. The cloud cover was starting to slowly dissipate and we could make out the Sgimieuki peak slightly covered in snow. At the foot of it was the village of Zhabeshi, where most hikers finish the first leg of the long-distance walk. We on the other hand were planning to walk only half the valley and then turn around and head back to Mestia. As we descended the hill, the sun started peering through the clouds warming us up and allowing us a great view of the many villages dotting the valley and sporting the typical medieval towers. At one point, passing close to one of the villages, we spotted a few baby pigs on the path. At first, they seemed a little afraid, but then after stopping for a while they came close to us to sniff us curiously. A little further we then reached the largest village in the area, Lakhiri. It featured a large number of Svan towers and simple old and low houses. What surprised me was that the streets were all muddy and none of them with asphalt so the locals would just be walking around in constant mud especially after or during rain. Two curious kids came out of one of the streets and greeted us with a loud hello in English, they actually knew a few words and that was quite nice to hear. We then left the village and from that point decided to start heading back to Mestia. We had to walk a little uphill, though we managed to admire some beautiful views of the villages and their towers contrasting with the surrounding mountains. We passed by a few other villages, such as Artskheli, Zardlashi, and Ghvebra, and from there then descended towards the road to walk a different way from where we came from. We followed the road, with just a few random cars driving by, and eventually came back to Mestia. Here we then decided to have a late lunch at Cafe Laila where I took pork with potatoes, Ania a vegetable stew, and together we shared a lobiani (bread filled with beans). After that, we headed back to the accommodation, buying just a few small things for dinner later, showered, and then went to sleep early.

The morning after the sun was out and shining despite still a few clouds around which obviously covered most of the major peaks including Mount Ushba. We left our accommodation and walked to the other side of town where we then took the Hatsvali Cable Car as soon as it opened at 10am. A group of Latvians were also wishing to buy the ticket and we found out that they offered a discount to groups of 10 or more people so we ended up buying a ticket together giving both us and them a small discount (we ended up just paying 16gel each). We thanked them and then reached the top of Mount Zuruldi, after a switch of cable car mid-way. In winter this is a popular skiing resort while in summer it's used by tourists to get up high and enjoy great views without having to hike uphill. Once on top, at 2347m, we enjoyed the beautiful view of the surrounding mountains. We then decided to walk along the crest of the ridge, eastwards, to get away from the cable car and crowds and enjoy a bit of hiking while admiring the panorama. The walk was just a couple of kilometers but was nonetheless great, walking along fields covered in beautifully colored flowers and with the constant view of the mountains and snow-capped peaks in the background. We sat down in one of the open fields while eating some fruit and enjoying the view. After a bit more walking we then reached Mentashi one of the peaks of the range we were on, at 2472m and covered in three large antennas. From here one could take a path leading down to Ughviri Pass and to the valley which we had walked the previous day. Instead, we turned around and headed back to the cable car. On the way back we stopped again at one of the flowered-covered fields to admire the view which by now was getting better as the clouds were slowly dissipating around some of the peaks. We then reached the cable car where we stopped for lunch at the restaurant located right next to it. I had an Adjarian khachapuri (with egg), while Ania had the lobiani. We sat outside and the warm sun made us feel really comfortable while admiring the beautiful view of the mountains all around. We stayed there quite a bit and more of the peaks revealed themselves through the clouds as the hours passed. It was then time to head back down as the last cable car would depart at 4:30pm. We left just half an hour before the last ride enjoying the last sight of the snowcapped peaks. Despite that Ushba never revealed itself, something I had hoped would eventually happen during the day. It was nonetheless a great day and worth the cable ride up to the top. Once back down we had a little walk around town before then heading back to the accommodation for a shower. For dinner, we headed back to the main square and picked Seti restaurant. I had a beef stew with tomato and paprika sauce and shared potato wedges, a grilled vegetable salad, and Ania then had a bean stew. While eating we also had a nice local band playing Georgian tunes which made dinner even more enjoyable coupled with a nice amber wine.

The next day, another bright and sunny one, we decided to do another hiking trip, this time to visit the Chalaadi Glacier. Generally, people tend to arrange transport to the start of the hike due to the fact that the first 8 km to get there are along a boring valley with construction around. The prices were exorbitantly high and so we decided to just walk there. We left Mestia in the early morning admiring some nice medieval towers as we headed northwards. We passed the local airport and, turning around, towards Mestia admired a beautiful view of the snow-capped peaks in the distance. The way along the valley turned out to be quite nice and after nearly two hours we then reached a small wooden precarious bridge that allowed us to cross over the river and from the other side start the hike towards the glacier. The way began deep through a nice pine forest with rocky terrain and constantly uphill. We met a few hikers, going both up and coming back down. Eventually, out of the forest, we reached an opening with the river flowing down from the melting glacier on the side. From where we could now clearly make out the large glacier sitting below the peaks nestled at the end of the valley. We then reached the lower part of the glacier yet the whole of it extended well up the side of the mountain for several kilometers. Here we could occasionally hear the rumble of the ice moving and sometimes some rocks detaching from the structure. In fact, most of the hikers there, including us, stayed a bit back from the ice wall due to the risk of falling rocks from above. The ice wall was mostly brownish/gray due to the soil that covered it, but we also managed to see some pure white and blue in its lower part as well. We found a spot on a rock and then had the lunch we had brought with us, a large bowl of tomato and cucumber salad and some bread. After that I decided to climb a bit more, on the side of the glacier, to see if the view from further above was worth it. After a bit of climbing through the rocky terrain, I found that the landscape wasn't changing much, and not wanting to risk falling into a hidden crevice or having some rocks fall on me from the moving terrain I decided to head back. We then walked back through the forest and down across the bride once again. From here we then followed the road which we had taken previously taking us back to Mestia. On the way, at two different times, two cars stopped to ask us if we wished for a lift. They were locals and very kind but we refused as the way was straight, easy, flat, and not far from the destination. Once back in town, we reached our accommodation and after a shower and a short nap headed out to dinner, choosing again the Cafe Leila. Where I had Tashmijabi, the potato and cheese dish, plus a beef tomato stew with dumplings inside and then shared bread and grilled vegetables.

The following day, our last one, we took it easy and decided to get up late and stay in town. We had brunch at a place on the main square called Erti Kava, owned by some Russians, which was quite expensive but still nice. I had bread with salmon and herbs on it with some olives and salad on the side. Then we had a walk around time admiring the views on another sunny day. After relaxing a bit we then had a kind of late lunch/early dinner with some lobiani before getting on the transport that took us to Kutaisi in an impressive time, much faster than what google maps had predicted. The driver, Irakli, drove really fast but was nice and friendly. Together with us was also another tourist, a guy from the United Arab Emirates who was also quite friendly and asked to stop along the way to buy some honey to bring back to his wife. We eventually reached our destination and got dropped off at the accommodation, Hostel Lviv, where the friendly owner showed us our room.

The next morning, we woke up early as we had a group tour booked with Budget Georgia, the same company that had arranged the transport from Mestia to Kutaisi. Surprisingly the driver was Ika again and we greeted him when we got picked up. We then stopped to get two more passengers, a mother, and her daughter from the U.S. After leaving the city we drove eastwards and on the way stopped close to the town of Surami on the side of the road to try Nazuki, a local sweet bread. Here an old lady used a wooden barrel filled with charcoal and covered with pelts to create a hot and smoky environment for cooking the bread. It was really tasty and well worth the stop. Close by as we drove we then also noticed the construction of the highway, which is supposed to slash the travel time from Tbilisi to Kutaisi which currently stands at around 3h 30 and would then go down to just 2 hours. In fact, currently, we had to take a windy road up a mountain and over a pass; it is a one-lane road and thousands of trucks go on it daily making it a nightmare for drivers. One sad thing though was that the construction is basically financed and managed by Chinese companies meaning the country would then be in debt with them in the future. Driving onwards, towards the south we then reached our first stop of the day, the town of Borjomi. A resort town since the 19th century, it is noted for its mineral water industry, which is the number one export of the country, and for being a retreat for the Russian imperial family, still holding a Romanov summer palace in its western neighborhood. Once there we parked the car and then headed on foot through the town, with its beautiful wooden 19th-century architecture, and onto the main park, Borjomi Central Park. Here we bought the entry tickets and walked along the main way while Ika explained to us the history of the place. We then stopped at the Ekaterina Spring, one of the main spots where the local thermal water sprouts out from. We tried its warm and lightly fizzy water, tasting the sulfur in it. It is said that water is often consumed for medicinal purposes. After that Ika suggested we head back instead of walking the whole way through the park as that would take an additional hour and we wouldn't then have enough time for the other two stops. After a nice drive through a valley sided by lush green forests, we then came out to a rather drier and browner countryside to reach the town of Akhaltsikhe. Here we visited the large Rabati castle, which standing on a hilltop, dominates the town below. Originally dating to the 9th century, it was further expanded during the 12th century and survived the Turko-Mongol invasion led by Tamerlane in 1393. In recent times, between 2011 and 2012 the fortress was heavily restored and reconstructed giving its current grandeur yet a modern and sometimes fake feel, better observed from afar than up close. We entered the complex through the eastern gate and from there had a great view of the fortifications and the main buildings. Then to visit the interior and main part we were required to buy a ticket. We then entered the upper castle, where we then walked through a well-cured garden, clearly of Ottoman inspiration, since the town and castle had remained under Ottoman rule for quite some centuries. Another Ottoman feature was the Pasha room, a wooden room used by the ruler to have audiences. Right in from of it we then entered the Ahmed Mosque built in 1752 but converted into a church when the Russians arrived less than a century later. Its large central dome betrayed its previous function. Next up was the old madrasa, right next to the mosque, the Islamic school. From there we then climbed to the top of the main keep from where we had a great view of the surrounding fortress complex and of the city around and the surrounding mountainous landscape. After the nice view, we headed back down and crossed the gardens once more finishing the visit to the complex. We got back in the car and then drove on along a really nice way following the Kura river (the one that then flows through Tbilisi). It was really picturesque as the river provided water for many trees which grew abundant and verdant along its banks, however, the rest of the landscape was rocky, dull, and brown creating a sharp contrast. Along the route, I then asked Ika to stop briefly so I could admire and take pictures of the Khertvisi fortress, built in the 10th century and one of the oldest in the country. Located on a rocky outcrop right next to the river it dominates the surrounding landscape and guards the narrow valley. A little further on we then stopped along the road to admire an amazing view. The road had gone uphill on the side of the rocky valley and from here we could admire the river cutting a deep gorge down below us. It was truly an amazing sight and well worth the stop. A further drive brought us finally to our last destination, Vardzia. First, though, we stopped at the restaurant right on the river to have lunch. I had khinkali and grilled meat. Then we were off to the ticket office where we bought the entry to the site and then another ticket for the little bus that brought us up the road. Here we then entered the site proper, a cave city built on the side of the rocky cliffs similar to Uplistsikhe. Unlike the latter though, Vardzia wasn't an actual city but rather a complex of rock-cut monasteries all cluttered together. The site consisted of churches, shrines, monk cells, and other religious buildings. In the surrounding valleys, there were older cave cities like that of Uplistsikhe but Vardzia itself was constructed later, between the 12th and 13th centuries, as a religious site instead. We walked through the amazing complex which consists of about 500 caves and is divided into an eastern and a western part by the Church of the Dormition that stands in the middle. We walked through dwellings, chapels, wine cellars, ovens, a refectory with a bakery, a forge, a meeting room, a reception room, and a pharmacy (where we could still see the shelves that looked like dovecots). We then also visited the church, the main building, and the central spiritual and monumental focus of the site. Carved similarly from the rock, its walls reinforced in stone, it measures 8.2 meters by 14.5 meters, rising to a height of 9.2 meters. Its interior features well-preserved 12th-century frescoes depicting episodes of the life of Christ and portraits of the royal founders, Giorgi III and Tamar, dressed in Byzantine ceremonial clothes, in crowns, with halos, and holding the church model. We thoroughly enjoyed admiring this magnificent complex, walking up and down its many levels, and crawling through narrow hallways, tunnels, and spaces. We then walked back down from the site and reached the car. A long drive then awaited us with Ika speedy as always taking us back in a flash. Once we reached Kutaisi he dropped off the other two and let me and Ania down in the city center. After thanking him we then looked for a place to have dinner but ended up just getting some stuff from the market and eating it at home.

The next day, our last one in Georgia, we decided to explore the city and its surroundings. We started out with a visit to the central market where we met a nice lady with her stall and where we bought some spices to bring home, including the really tasty adjika. From the market, we then crossed the Rioni River which cuts through the city and hiked up the nearby hilly area where we then reached the Bagrati Cathedral. This 11th-century was a masterpiece of medieval Georgian architecture but suffered heavy damage throughout centuries and was reconstructed to its present state through a gradual process starting in the 1950s, with controversial conservation works concluding in 2012. It used to be a Unesco world heritage site but was removed in 2017 because its major reconstruction had been detrimental to its integrity and authenticity. In fact, once we were there we clearly noticed the modern parts that had been reconstructed which contrasted with the older stonework. However, it was still an impressive site and well worth a visit. The interior was even more evidently modern so we quickly visited it and then went back outside to admire the architecture from afar. At that point, we then ordered a taxi and had the driver take us to Gelati Monastery, a couple of kilometers outside the city. This monastic complex, which consists of a central large church, some minor churches, and other monastic buildings, used to be part of the Unesco site with Bagrati. Luckily, Gelati did not suffer major reconstructions and thus remained on the Unesco list to this day. Once there we entered the complex through the small gate in the walls that encircle the area. It was founded in 1106 by King David IV of Georgia as a monastic and educational center and is an exemplar of the Georgian Golden Age with some frescoes dating back to the 12th century. We first visited the main central Church of the Blessed Virgin, completed in 1130, which had partial scaffolding on the outside and full scaffolding on the inside due to restoration works so we weren't able to fully enjoy it. However, once inside we admired the beautiful Byzantine-style mosaic from the 12th century depicting the Virgin Mary holding the baby Jesus, which dominates the apse of the main church. The rest of the central plan was covered so we could make out the other frescoes through the scaffolding. The annexes to the sides though also held some nice frescoes, ranging from the 13th to the 18th centuries, depicting saints and other religious motifs and tombs of Georgian kings. Right outside the main church is the detached bell tower, with its first two floors dating to the 12th century while the third floor, with the arched openings, dates from the 14th century. Next to it and in front of the main church is the Church of St. Nicholas, a two-story building dating from the 13th and 14th centuries. Behind it is the building of the former Academy, which had an extensive library, where numerous books were written and translated. Moving on we then stopped to see the grave of King David IV the builder, located right below the southern gate and dating to the 12th century. One of the doors of the gate had Arabic writing as it came from the city of Ganja in Azerbaijan and was brought to the monastery by David’s son, Demetre I, in the 12th century, after he took the city. After that, we then visited the last of the churches, the church of St George, dating to the 13th century and with an interior covered in frescoes from the 16th century depicting scenes from the New Testament, as well as historical figures. After the visit to the complex, it was time to leave. Instead of heading back to Kutaisi immediately we decided to try to visit another monastery located nearby, Motsameta Monastery. To get there though we first had to walk down through the village of Gelati. Then cross a bridge over the Tskaltsitela River and from there headed back uphill through the village of Motsameta. To shorten the way we also walked along some train tracks, meeting then three tourists who were doing the same but going on the opposite direction to Gelati. Once we reached the monastery, we marveled at its location, perched on a rocky cliff right above the river which at that point forms an impressive gorge. A basilica was built during the 11th century on the spot where the princes David and Constantine were buried after refusing conversion following an Arab invasion in the 8th century. The basilica and the monastery that grew around it due to its popularity were refurbished and restored several times throughout the following centuries eventually taking their current form and structure. The location and exterior of the complex were incredible to look at while the central cross-dome church dedicated to the Annunciation was quite simple and modern, particularly in its interior, as it was rebuilt during the 19th century. After the visit to the monastery, it was time to head back to Kutaisi. We ordered in a Yandex on the app and after its arrival drove back to the city. Here we had a little walk around town and then had a late lunch, early dinner as we were planning to go to sleep really early as our flight was before sunrise the next day. We chose the restaurant Palaty where I had a really tasty dish consisting of chicken in a blackberry sauce and then shared spinach Pkhali with bread. After that, we then headed home and got ready to sleep for the early flight.