On an early September warm and sunny weekend, Ania and I decided to head to the Baltic Sea coast. We took a train from Berlin, and after several hours and a switch in Zussow, crossed the border into Poland and reached the seaside town of Świnoujście. Here we first walked through the city center, with a mix of some old houses from the 19th and early 20th centuries together with more modern ones. Heading on, we left the city center and walked through the large Park Zdrojowy, made up of nice tall deciduous trees. At its edge, right next to the Swina River, which gave its name to the city, we came upon the Angel's Fort, built between 1845 and 1858 when it was part of Prussia. Not far from it, we passed another fort, the Western Fort, originally built between 1843 and 1863, but having been modernized particularly during WWII. After the fort, a short walk brought us eventually to the beach. Here was a short jetty to separate the beach from the Swina River/Canal with at the end of it a 10m high beacon in the form of a white windmill. We decided to walk along the beachfront for a bit, also dipping our feet in the water, and noticed there were many tiny transparent jellyfish all around. The Polish part of the beach was really crowded and at one point we decided to head back into the city to look for a place for lunch. Right after exiting the sandy part, we came upon the waterfront promenade with many tall and new buildings facing the sea and many more still under construction. We found a restaurant and decided to stop there. Ania had a curry salad while I had seabream with potatoes. After lunch, we walked along the promenade for a bit and then decided to head back to the beach. Following the waterfront, we eventually crossed into Germany as the long sandbar extended for several kilometers westwards. Here, due to no buildings in the interior, there were many fewer people, and we decided to stop for a short break. I then chose to go for a quick swim, though the water was quite shallow so I had to head out quite a bit. The water was nice and clean, rather darkish in color, but much clearer as I headed out. It was also quite chilly but rather nice and the outside temperature was still rather warm and the sun beating strong. After drying out, we set ourselves back on track, walking along the waterfront and eventually reaching the Ahlbeck Pier, a 280m long pier, considered the oldest one in Germany having been built in 1899. It was refurbished and partly reconstructed several times since then, specifically to strengthen it, following disastrous winter freezes. Continuing along the beach, after a couple kilometers we reached another pier, that of Heringsdorf. This bridge, which at the time of its construction in 1893, in wood, was the longest in Europe, unfortunately burned down in 1958. It was then replaced by a new one only in 1995 and now measures 508m in length. We walked along the whole length of it and then turned back to head into the city. We had a walk around town admiring the nice late 19th century and early 20th century buildings, in a style known as resort architecture and typical of this part of the Baltic coast. In the end, it was then time for us to go; we reached the train station and after another switch in Zussow eventually we came back to Berlin.
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The city center of Świnoujście |
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Another view of the city center |
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Through Park Zdrojowy |
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The Angels Fort |
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The beach and beacon in the form of a windmill |
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The large Polish beach |
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Walking along the beach on the German side |
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The beach in Heringsdorf |
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The Heringsdorf Pier |
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The center of Heringsdorf |