I had been thinking of walking along a long-distance walk once again and had a few ideas in my mind. After consulting a few books and researching online I ended up picking the Via di San Francesco which runs from Rome to Assisi or vice versa. As I was now in Rome visiting my brother this was the perfect moment to walk along this pilgrimage way so after plotting out the route and contacting each locality to book a sleeping spot I set myself on this 9 days journey. The pilgrimage starts in Rome but the first leg would be mostly through the northern suburbs of Rome to the town of Monterotondo. So I decided to take a train instead and get ahead of a day to start from the train station of Passo Corese and reach the second stop on the first day. After taking an early train I reached the small uninteresting town of Passo Corese in less than one hour. From here I started my 9-day hike which would lead me to Assisi. The weather was very pleasant and not too hot; I started my walk through some beautiful fields dedicated to fruit farming from where I was even able to pick some prunes and peaches from trees scattered around. After a while, I then reached the first town: Montelibretti. As I walked through the nice 18th-century gate topped by a clock tower, I reached the town's main square where the large Palazzo Barberini was set. Built for the famous Roman family the Barberini, it was constructed above what used to be the Orsini castle, some traces of which can be found in the outer defensive walls. Here I stopped and sat on a ledge to have my packed lunch while admiring the view of the surrounding landscape from this small hilltop town. All around the field were covered in either olive trees or vineyards. After lunch and a small break, I finally got back on my feet and continued onwards, this time managing to officially join the way to Assisi which was now clearly marked by blue and yellow signals. As I proceeded along the walk the day started growing hotter and surrounded by olive trees and cicadas it felt like a typical scorching summer day. I then reached the town of Nerola not long after and decided to head to see its main monument, the castle. The Orsini Castle originally dates to the 11th century but was later refurbished several times particularly in the following two centuries which granted it its current aspect. It was also an official residence for several popes around the 12th century and then again during the 18th century. It now serves as a luxury hotel and so I was just able to see it from the inside and explore its courtyards and gardens without being noticed. Just a couple of kilometers later, I finally reached the destination of that first day: Ponticelli in Scandriglia a small town with nothing particularly interesting. I had tried finding accommodation here, however, there seemed to be no pilgrim housing but just rather expensive b&b's especially for just one person. I had managed though to contact Riccardo, the owner of the local bar who had offered me his attic to sleep in for a modest prize. I gladly accepted and after reaching his bar was let in through a back staircase which brought me up to his little cozy apartment. Upstairs he showed me the attic where he had laid a mattress for me and told me to go ahead and shower and rest if I needed to. The place was really nice and even had a pretty large rooftop terrace which granted nice views over the town and surrounding landscape. After showering and letting my legs rest for a bit, I was then called downstairs where I had dinner with Riccardo and his friend. We had a large tasty meal and discussed several topics particularly about the pilgrimage I was undertaking and about the fact that Riccardo, though living here for a long time, had a grandma who came from Veneto so knew my region quite well, having been there often as a child. After the long talk I was quite tired and feeling the many kilometers of this first day so decided to head and sleep early to get a nice rest.
The following day. after an early wakeup, I headed down to the bar where Riccardo offered me breakfast as well. I thanked him kindly and after bidding farewell, set myself along the path. The sun was shining bright that day as well, and the landscape featured yet again an array of fruit trees and mostly olive groves. At one point, following a rocky path I was stuck for a long 10 minutes when a herd of sheep came rolling down guided by their shepherd and followed by 3 faithful dogs. It was a funny sight and a nice way to have a forced break under the shade of trees. After just forest and desolate hills, I finally reached another town: Poggio Moiano. As I walked through the pretty old town made up of typical stone buildings, I found a small grocery store where I asked the owner two make me two sandwiches. I also then bought some fruit and vegetables and had my lunch while admiring the town's bustle during a nice sunny day. As I left the town, I passed by the nice church of San Marino, only first mentioned during the 14th century but probably dating to a little earlier as it had some Romanesque features and some ancient roman architectural pieces reutilized in its construction. Not too far ahead I then came across the remote Sanctuary of Santa Vittoria which was unfortunately closed (most probably open only on specific days of the year due to its remoteness). I still admired its Romanesque structure dating to the 11th century from the outside and could peer in through the door holes at the beautiful frescoes inside. Just up the road I then reached the impressive ruins of a Roman Amphitheater just like that in the middle of nowhere close to the town of Monteleone Sabino. Despite only part of the structure being still visible, it was quite interesting to be able to visit it freely without anyone around. It is not certain when this large amphitheater was built but some inscriptions that were dug out confirm it was refurbished during the 2nd century A.D. It was here that the roman town of Trebula Mutuesca was located. I walked then further and crossed through the small town of Monteleone Sabino before walking then again through a thick forest out of which I finally reached the last town for the day: Poggio San Lorenzo. Another small town along the Via di San Francesco, for this one I had been able to book a bed in the pilgrim accommodation which was located right on the town's main square. Luciano, a local inhabitant, had the key to the place, and after showing me the rooms and the small kitchen bade me farewell. The building consisted of about 4 rooms with about 3 to 4 beds each. I was the only one there so it felt quite comfortable but a bit strange as well, particularly at night when I would be sleeping alone. After showering, washing my clothes, and laying my stuff on the bed I then headed out and looked for a place to have dinner. There was just a bar/pizzeria in the whole town, so I decided to eat a pizza there on a table set right in from of the main church. Though exciting and in a way more practical to walk alone in such a pilgrimage, whenever dinner comes it does sometimes feel strange to sit down and eat alone. Nevertheless, I didn't really feel like chatting up with the locals that evening so after finishing my pizza, headed straight to bed feeling tired from my second day hiking.
The following day, I had bought a few things for breakfast the day prior, so I ate it quickly and then got ready to start my day. The sun was substituted by clouds and light rain but that didn't hamper my spirits and actually made the hike less tiring and less hot. My first stop, after walking through a dense muddy forest, was the town of Ornaro with its hilltop castle. The town was very tiny and the castle could not be visited as it was privately owned. I stopped at the local bar, had a doughnut, and decided to buy a magnet. The owner talked with me a while and was impressed with the pilgrimage I was undertaking. After bidding farewell I returned to the path and continued onwards until I reached the Ponte Sambuco, an ancient Roman bridge along the Via Salaria which served as the main roadway until well into the 19th century. The sun had come out once again, but luckily the road ahead was now easy and flat. I passed by the town of San Giovanni Reatino where a very large scout group had gathered, in order to probably spend a few days in these calming hills. I heard mostly Italian amongst them with the occasional Spanish, German, and even Polish spoken. As I continued further, the path started to follow the side of the main road eventually taking me into the city of Rieti. Just south of the city center, right below the hills, I stopped at a place called Antiche Fonti Cottorella. It is here in fact that a local spring gathers to give out some extremely tasty and healthy waters. I refilled my bottle for free and then moved in the direction of my accommodation. I had booked a room at a local B&B, La Terrazza Fiorita, managed by an amiable and energetic lady, Rita, who is also the owner of a local tourist association that organizes tours through the underground of the city. She showed me the room and the kitchen and then bid me farewell. It was about lunchtime so I decided to go out and shop for some food to cook back at the B&B before heading out to explore the city. So after heading out to the supermarket and coming back with enough food for lunch and dinner I had a nice and filling meal and went on to explore Rieti. The city, which has ancient origins, sits at the southern edge of a fertile valley that was once nearly completely covered by a lake. Now just a fraction of this lake is left in the northern part and is split into two smaller bodies of water. The town was thought to be the geographical center of Italy during ancient times, but now the exact location has been confirmed to be a little further west. I started my exploration with the small nearby Piazza San Rufo where a small monument on the ground marks the "apparent" geographical center of Italy. From there, a few blocks away, I then reached the larger Piazza Cesare Battista where the Cathedral is located. Dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta, it was built during the 12th century over a pre-existing basilica. It was later fully refurbished during the 17th century and so the interior is nearly completely Baroque. The crypt survived and still dates to the original building with some beautiful Romanesque capitals and medieval frescoes; so does the bell tower which is also Romanesque in style. Right by the Cathedral on the opposite side of the square is the beautiful Palazzo Vincentini with a 16th century Renaissance loggia built above an Italian garden overlooking the town's rooftops. The view from there was great and a light breeze helped bare the heat just a little bit more. To the side of the Cathedral, I walked by and admired the Bishop's palace, built slightly after the Cathedral during the 13th century; it now holds the Cathedral museum. Walking onwards I reached the southern end of the old town where the church of St Francis is located. Unfortunately, it was closed so that prompted me to continue onwards until I reached the eastern end of town. Here the Porta d'Arci, a medieval gate marked the entrance for those coming from that direction. I then followed the walls which were perfectly preserved until the other end of town and protecting the city to the north. Along the walls, I then decided to head back into town and visit the Basilica of Sant'Agostino, built in the 13th century with a Romanesque/Gothic structure and a single nave typical of the monastic orders' buildings of the time. After strolling further west, I then retraced my steps and reached once more the garden of the Palazzo Vincentini from where I admire the view of the town at sunset. It was then time to head back to the B&B where I started cooking my dinner. There, I met a group of pilgrims who were heading south towards Rome but just covering a few of the legs of the journey at a time. After finishing my food I realized I had eaten a bit too much and felt sick not long after. My original plan to stroll the city by night one last time was ditched for the option of just laying in bed and complaining about the excessive amount of food eventually falling asleep.
The next day, feeling much better, I had a large breakfast (the lesson of the night before was not learned) and then gathered my stuff to continue on my journey. I exited the town walls to the north and walked past the suburbs of the city eventually reaching a nice hilly area. After walking through a shaded forest with views overlooking the valley I then reached the Santuario di Santa Maria Della Foresta, one of the four sanctuaries founded by St Francis. The monastery stood in a little valley among the hills with a view over the mountains just east of Rieti and with a splendid orchard tilled by some monks. As I approached the complex, I visited the church inside which featured some medieval frescoes. Right outside, I decided to have a quick snack with some fruit I had brought with me, sitting on the grass and with the company of a cat. After getting back on my feet I continued on, walking up and down through the hilly landscape, luckily shaded by the thick forest which covered that area. Not long after I soon approached the small town of Cantalice. Built on the side of the mountain it looked just like a nativity scene, with its typical stone architecture and the castle tower jutting out from the top. I stopped at a grocery store to ask for the pilgrim stamp and the few locals inside were quite curious as to me being there. After having told them of my pilgrimage to Assisi they wished me farewell and offered some fruit as a kind gesture; I gladly accepted and waved goodbye. After reaching the small main square, surrounded by stone houses and the castle on one side and the Basilica of San Felice da Cantalice on the other, I then sat down on one of the benches and had my lunch while admiring the view over the whole Rieti valley. The place and views were truly incredible and I was tempted to remain there for a long time to enjoy it all. However I still had a few kilometers to go, so reluctantly, after finishing my lunch, I got back up and started my descent of the series of steps taking me to the modern part of the town. From there another ascent brought up and over another hill and guiding me through a thick forest shielded from the hot sun. I then reached an opening, sided by olive trees, from where I could see my destination high above me: the town of Poggio Bustone. After a tough hike up I then finally reached the town and the Convento San Giacomo, another one of St Francis' monasteries. It was here I was going to spend my night. After trying to reach the priest in vain and waiting outside I was finally let in. The priest, a young and friendly guy, showed me inside and told me that unfortunately, due to the fact that there was a large French religious group, there wasn't much space and all the beds had been taken. I was then given two options, either sleeping on the floor of the cloister or outside in a little wooden hut that had been built for the earthquake that had hit the surrounding a few years ago. I obviously chose the hut and it was actually really comfortable despite not having any electricity, not that I needed it as I still had my backup charger for the phone just in case. I then met the two dogs and three cats who lived with the priest in the large monastery and were all given names of protagonists from Lord of the Rings as the priest was a big fan. After unpacking I then decided to head out and walk up a path that took me to a small rural chapel set right above the monastery and built on the rock wall. On the way, I met some of those French kids part of that religious retreat, none of which were even friendly enough to say hi. Nevertheless, as I was then alone, I really enjoyed the peace and quiet of that location and relaxed a bit while listening to the sounds of nature. Once back down to the monastery, I then enjoyed the view from there, which was extremely beautiful and covering the whole valley all the way in the direction of Rieti, before then getting ready for dinner. The priest had invited me to join him and some local religious individuals in eating upstairs. We recited a prayer and then shared food amongst ourselves. I then offered to wash dishes while telling of my journey so far. Then after dinner, I finally headed back to my hut where I fell asleep not long after, tired after a lot of hiking up and down that day.
The following morning, after waking up relatively early I had found most of the kids from the religious group already gone, probably heading for an early morning prayer. I left my donation in the donation box and then headed out of the monastery and through the town of Poggio Bustone which I had barely seen as I approached it the day before. Nothing particularly interesting characterized the town despite being also famous as the birthplace of the late Italian singer Lucio Battisti. The path then took me along a road empty of any car and at one point began winding its way up the side of the mountain. I decided to skip that part and instead head down through a few turns, saving myself a long and tough hike uphill. So I first approached the small town of Rivodutri: here I visited a quite interesting Alchemical Door, just standing there by itself and marking the entrance to a little park. It is decorated with esoteric and alchemical symbols still not fully revealed and was once part of a palace which has long since disappeared. The small local church dedicated to St Michael the Archangel held some nice frescoes worth seeing as well. After descending the hill on which the town was set, I crossed through a large plateau with a few sparse houses that granted a nice view of the Rieti valley. From here I could easily spot the two small lakes once part of that large one I had mentioned filled the valley. Further ahead, I then reached another small hilltop town: Labro. Its typical grey stone architecture contrasted well among the dark green of the surrounding forests and the blue sky of that day. I headed first to its highest point where the Nobili Vitelleschi Castle is located. Built between the 9th and 10th centuries, not much is left of the original structure apart from the walls and one of the towers while the rest was mostly turned into single buildings not held privately. Right by the castle is the small church of Santa Maria Maggiore which holds some nice medieval frescoes. From there, I then descended through the narrow streets which meandered among the typical stone architecture. After exiting the town I then walked through a forest and some fields, eventually crossing over into the region Umbria; I had now left the Lazio region. Not long after I soon approached the town of Piediluco, located on the northern banks of the lake of the same name. But before heading into town, I decided to take a little deviation and climbed up the hill that dominated the town just to the north. On top of it there was the Rocca di Piediluco, an 11th-century castle that once dominated the whole area. It was mostly abandoned, and despite being refurbished during the 14th century it was now mostly in ruins. I climbed the low fence and decided to explore it from the inside. The grass was overgrown so I watched my step and I walked through the partly crumbled walls. The view was incredible, I could easily see the whole lake below me and the town of Labro standing on the hill town with the mountains behind it jutting out. I then descended through a path in the woods which took me directly into town. As I walked through the old town, I then decided to visit the main church, dedicated to St Francis. Built in a Gothic style it features an interesting cycle of 15th-century paintings. Right beside the church, I then entered the convent where I was shown to the rooms of the pilgrim accommodation. As it had occurred before, I was the only pilgrim there and so would have the whole building all for myself. I decided to grab some stuff from the supermarket as a snack and for breakfast the following morning and then headed to explore the rest of the town. Beautifully situated on the banks of the lake, Piediluco is an attractive tourist spot, particularly for those living in the area and wishing to have access to a nice body of water close by. As I followed the path running alongside the lake I then reached a restaurant located just by the water. I had lunch there consisting of tasty pasta with local fish. Then I looked for a spot on one of the beaches to lay down and enjoy the long-earned rest in the sun. After reading for a while and basking in the sun I then also took a quick dip in the water which was quite pleasant. The view from there was incredible and I could easily spot the town of Labro on its hilltop and the surrounding mountains. After the relaxing time spent on the beach, I then headed back to the accommodation to have a shower and go out for dinner. I found a spot in a local pizzeria where I had a tasty pizza with a view of the lake. The only issue was that being it freshwater and after sunset, I was literally eaten alive by mosquitoes. After dinner, it was time to head back and get some sleep for the next day's hike.
After an early wake-up, as I had decided to merge two legs of the journey into one, I was already walking at 7am, the earliest so far. I circled the lake and followed the path running alongside the Velino river. In less than a half-hour, I had reached the famous Cascata Delle Marmore. As it was still very early, the park of the waterfall had not yet opened, and I couldn't afford to wait until the opening and then visit the park which would take at least 2 hours. So as I followed the path I was able to admire the falls from a vantage point which still granted a nice view. Built by the ancient Romans to have the Velino river flow into the nearby Near river which had formed a deeper valley, it stands at 165m making it thus the tallest man-made waterfall in the world. I was quite disappointed in not being able to see it up close as I had always hoped to once come and see the flow turned on and the full wrath of the waters, but I promised myself I would eventually in the not too distant future. After admiring the falls I then continued onwards and entered the Valnerina, a beautiful lush and green valley which is formed by the Nera river that flows through it, a river which I would see for the most part of the next 2 days. I was particularly surprised by the greenness of the valley which I had thought would be much drier particularly in this period of the year, and which contrasted highly with the dried landscape I had seen in the previous days and would see later on towards Assisi. While walking I was able to spot some lovely hilltop towns on the other side of the valley, namely Collestatte and Torreorsina. Visiting all of them would mean spending extra hours on the walk and I obviously could not do that, so alas I continued onwards. I then reached the small town of Casteldilago, sitting right on top of a small hill dominating the valley. I decided to climb up and walk through its pretty streets filled with stone houses and decorated with lovely plants and flowers which is a delight all around Umbria. The town featured a little church at its highest point and from there I had a great panoramic view of the surroundings. I then descended the town on the other side and shortly after passed by the Convent of St Francis, a Gothic monastery now turned into a police station. A little further I then reached the town of Arrone. This was supposed to be one of the stops on the way but due to the short distance, I had decided to join it with the next leg in a single day. Like the previous town, Arrone was built on top of a hill and featured a nice defensive wall surrounding it. As I walked through the pretty old town, I reached the highest spot where the Torre degli Olivi is located, a medieval tower functioning also as the town's clock tower. Descending back down I then visited the church of Santa Maria Assunta, the largest in town. Built in a renaissance style during the 15th century it features a grand facade and a nicely decorated interior. I then decided to ask a local if he had seen the priest as I wished to get my pilgrim passport stamped. He said he had just seen the priest leave for lunch and told me to wait while he tried calling someone else who could help. A kind lady then arrived not long after and decided to drive me to the pilgrim accommodation which was located just east of the old town. There I had my passport stamped and then thanked and waved goodbye to the lady. After getting back on the track, I continued on along the valley, shielded by the sun while following the path that ran along the Nera river covered by trees. After quite some walking I then reached the next town: Ferentillo. The town is actually made up of two small towns, Matterella and Precetto, which are divided by the river and both located on hilltops. I started out by visiting Precetto and its lovely stone buildings. I first entered the church of Santo Stefano, built during the 18th century on top of a previous one. Right below it, through a small door, I was then able to visit the Museo Delle Mummie di Ferentillo, an odd museum dedicated to the mummies of the town. In fact, during the 19th century, while excavating the crypt of the aforementioned church, several corpses came to light and were deemed exceptional and odd due to the particular circumstances in which they were found. Most corpses were in fact perfectly preserved, with many still having their well-preserved clothes on and some with hair, teeth, and even skin still attached to their bodies. In time though, once exposed to the outside air, the corpses started to suffer some deterioration and so further care was taken in order to preserve them. It was very strange and eerie to see all those bodies perfectly preserved and it was particularly interesting to read the stories behind them. Two of the mummies are in fact of two Asian individuals, most probably Chinese, who seemed to have spent their honeymoon in Italy during the Jubilee of 1750. They most probably fell ill and died in the town where they were later buried. Another case is that of a lawyer which is the only corpse not shown to the public as his descendants are still alive and wish it to be so. He was murdered by three men, one of whom died as well in the act, was also buried there, and is now shown just next to the coffin of the lawyer. Together with the corpses, there are also many bones and skulls set on to a pile at the end of the crypt and two mummies of animals, including an eagle, which were supposed to be an experiment after the crypt was discovered, to see how and why the corpses would mummify so easily. The cause is to be found in the type of soil rich in iron silicates and alumina silicate, sulfate and calcium nitrates of magnesium and ammonia, the fact that the crypt is well ventilated and most importantly due to a bacterium that dehydrates bodies. After the visit to the eerie museum, I then crossed the river and explored Matterella on the other side. I found the Collegiate di Santa Maria open so went ahead and visit it. Built between the 13th and 14th centuries, it holds some nice paintings inside. I then decided to climb up and visit the castle. As I reached the top I found it was mostly sealed off due to the structure being not static and unsafe. I visited what I could and admired the view from up there. Then I descended back into town and decided to walk back towards Precetto and see the castle on that other side. This other defensive structure was mostly still standing and featured a beautifully preserved set of walls running down along the side of the hill. Among the castle's structures were several olive trees making the atmosphere extremely picturesque. Once back down again I decided it was time to have lunch. The local supermarket was luckily still open so I decided to grab some stuff to eat. I then found a nice spot on a small beach formed by the Nera river where I had previously seen some local kids jumping and smashing happily. As I finished my sandwiches, salad, and fruit, I decided to refresh myself by having a quick dip in the water. As soon as I put my legs in though I felt a sharp sting and had to quickly jump out. The water was freezing, and having walked so long made my legs feel it even more. After a moment of indecision, I then thought to jump in quickly run back out. The water felt really refreshing and a nice way to fight the extreme heat. As I dried and relaxed on the beach, I met a Moroccan guy whom I talked with for a while about my journey and life in general. After that pleasant talk, it was time for me to go, I waved goodbye and set myself back on the track. The path then followed the left bank of the river but I decided to take a small deviation and instead visit an abbey located on the opposite bank. After a bit of walking, I finally reached the Abbazia di San Pietro in Valle, an 8th-century monastery which has recently been turned into a luxury hotel, set in a solitary vantage position and surrounded by beautiful greenery. The abbey's church was open and thanks to the ticket I had bought for the mummy museum I was able to visit it as well. Built by Faroaldo II duke of Spoleto it was then refurbished several times due to the importance and power it gained throughout the centuries. It features a Romanesque style and its interior holds some beautiful decorations such as the many re-used Roman sarcophagi and the longboard marble plutei. The apse also featured a nice cycle of frescoes dating to the 12th century and once dating to the 15th century. After visiting the church, I then left the Abbey following a path running alongside the mountain which eventually took me to the small town of Macenano. I walked through its medieval streets which also held a medieval tower and then crossed the river Nera once again to rejoin the original pilgrimage route from which I had deviated previously. After one last push which started to be felt by my legs, I finally reached the town of Ceselli, my stop for the day. As I approached the accommodation which I had booked for the night, I then met a group of 3 pilgrims from Bergamo who told me they had started their walk in Piediluco and were heading to Assisi as well. The lady in charge of the accommodation then reached us and showed to the little building built right next to the local soccer field which was extremely bare with just four beds and a corner filled with old covered furniture. We had been told it was not really an accommodation but rather an emergency shelter but that was quite sufficient for us and we were glad not to have to spend the night outside. To our dismay, at the time of dinner, we found out the tiny town had no trace of any bar or restaurant, but luckily the lady was able to contact the owner of the only grocery store in the area who was able to at least make some sandwiches for us. Twice eating on sandwiches that day was not the most optimal meal for me but I was happy nonetheless and would surely not starve like that. After the meal, it was time to go to bed, as I felt really tired after combining two legs into one and seeing so many towns on the way.
The following morning, after an early rise the other pilgrims waved goodbye and were off to their next stop: Spoleto. I decided not to head to Spoleto as I had already been there the previous April and instead thought about joining two legs into one again and walk directly to Poreta where I would spend the night. So after setting myself on the path, I started walking further up the Nera valley. A while after I then reached the small town of Scheggino with its nice historical center. I walked through the town and climbed to the highest point where the castle was located. Just the outer walls and the keep´s main tower remain from the original structure however still quite well preserved. The view from there was great and I could clearly see the whole valley ahead. After heading back down and through the town once again I continued walking further north until I reached the next town: Sant´Anatolia di Narco. Built on a low hill it featured a small historical center surrounded by walls and with the typical stone architecture of the area. The town also featured a small hemp museum (grown in this valley for many centuries in the past) which was unfortunately closed, but a nice decorated cart that served as transport was set right outside the entrance. A few minutes from there I then reached Castel San Felice another historic small town. Right before reaching it, I passed over a medieval stone bridge crossing the Nera river where I decided to take a quick refreshing swim in its crystal clear ice-cold waters. Right next to the bridge stands the church of Santi Felice e Mauro a 12th-century monument that was currently under refurbishment. Once through the town, I stopped at a local grocery store to grab some food and have lunch by the riverside. After eating I got back on track and continued further starting my ascent of the northern part of the valley. Then once I reached the highest point I then started the descent of the other side, having now entered the hot and rather barren valley of Spoleto. I had left the lush and green Nera valley and was now among the typical olive grove covered landscape of central Umbria. I passed by the sparse town of Bazzano and then reached the destination for that day: the town of Poreta. I first reached the highest spot where the castle is located. At that moment it was closed as it is now a restaurant and open only during dinner time. Right below it, among the olive groves, is the small town made up of a few typical stone houses. At the foot of the hill was my accommodation, the Casa di Francesco. A nice lady mother of two was the owner who showed me to the room and told me we would have dinner later in the courtyard. Right next door, the lady's mother. who also lived on the grounds, had a grocery shop from which I bought some fruit to snack in the meantime. After showering and unpacking, it was finally dinner time and a table was arranged in the courtyard. I also met a couple of pilgrims coming from, guess what, Valdagno near Vicenza, who were also staying in another room. We talked about the pilgrimage and other stuff for a bit while enjoying the nice dinner prepared by the host. It was then time to head to sleep to be ready for the following day.
After an early wake up to try to beat the heat which made itself felt much more in this valley, I started my hike by heading north until I reached the small fortified town of Campello Alto. Set upon a hilltop and fully surrounded by thick walls, this little hamlet was founded in the 10th century and has been well-preserved till today. As I reached it I entered through the northern gate and walked through its pretty streets, even being able to climb a part of the defensive walls from where I had a great view of the olive grove covered valley below. Walking further on, I then reached the small town of Pissignano, built on the hillside and featuring the typical stone houses and a partly surviving medieval keep with outer walls. Right below the town, next to the springs of the Clitunno river, stands the Temple of Clitumnus. This small early medieval church was built around the 5th century over a pre-existing ancient roman sacred site dedicated to Jupiter Clitumnus, hence the name of the river. The church, which resembles a Roman temple, is part of the Unesco site The Longobards in Italy as it was built during the time the area was under their dominion. The church itself was closed but I was able to see it at least from the exterior up close. A little further ahead, while rejoining the official pathway of the pilgrimage, I passed by the impressive S. Emiliano Olive Tree, which is said to be the same tree St. Emiliano was tied to and sentenced to death in 304 A.D. It is 5m tall and has a diameter of about 9m. From the tree, a slight uphill hike brought me then to the town of Trevi, set upon a hilltop with its medieval architecture clearly visible from a distance. As I approached the town I entered the lower part by passing through the pretty streets lined with stone buildings. After heading up the main street, I reached the highest point where the Duomo of St. Emiliano is located. Dating to the medieval times it was later refurbished in the neoclassical style but with some Renaissance and Baroque decorations and altars still remaining. After visiting the church, I reached the town's main square Piazza Mazzini with the elegant buildings surrounding it and the civic tower jutting out from its southeastern end. I found then a grocery store from which I got a bit of food to have lunch. I then sat on a bench and enjoyed lunch under the shade of a tree. It was then time to head on, and while I left the town heading north I passed by the monastery of St Martin set right outside the city walls from where I had a great view of the old town. After walking for a little while among a nice hilly landscape covered in olive groves I reached the plain by entering through the small town of Sant´Eraclio. Surrounded by a well-preserved medieval wall it features a nice little old center and a civic tower jutting out from its core. From there on the way was easy and straight, passing through the suburbs of Foligno, my destination for the day. I entered the city through the southeastern entrance gate, the Porta Romana, and continued straight along the main street until I reached the city's main square, Piazza Della Repubblica. Not far from there, on a small side street, I got to my accommodation, an Airbnb room I had booked in the small lovely apartment of a young couple. After showering and changing into fresh clothes I then decided to head out and visit the city center. As I walked through the main square once more, I passed by the Cathedral which was unfortunately closed probably for some restoration work. Further on, I then reached the northern end of the old town where the city is sided by the small funnily named Topino river. I then walked past the Monastery of St Lucia, also closed, and later arrived at the pretty Piazza Garibaldi. At its southern end stands the church of St Augustine which I proceeded to visit. Built in the Baroque style, it features a nice gilded altar and some later neoclassical additions. As I continued my walk through town, I then passed by and entered the church of St Francis, built during the 19th century in the Neoclassical style but with no particularly interesting feature inside. Not far I then encountered a nice well-preserved medieval house among some other beautiful renaissance and baroque palaces. I was quite surprised by the large quantity and beauty of the palaces that dotted the city center, much more apparent in a renaissance city of north-central Italy than in this area. After a little wandering through the streets, I then reached the western end of town where the large Piazza San Domenico is located. The church of St Dominic was unfortunately closed as it had been turned into an Auditorium; the other church, the Basilica of Santa Maria Infraportas was open and so I headed inside. Built in the romanesque style between the 11th and 12th centuries it features some nice medieval frescoes ranging from the 13th to the 15th century. I then retraced my steps and reached the main square once again. Here I decided to visit the Palazzo Trinci and the museum inside. After paying for the entrance ticket I entered the building through the beautiful courtyard. The Palace was built during the 14th century over a pre-existing older medieval one and featured some restructurings due to damage suffered throughout the centuries. The Neoclassical facade was built in 1847 to substitute the older one which was damaged in the 1832 earthquake while other parts were repaired after the 1944 bombings hit the city heavily. The interior still features the original frescoes dating to the beginning of the 15th century when Ugolino III Trinci commissioned the famous painter Gentile da Fabriano to lavishly decorate the rooms of his palace. Each room after the other featured some vivid and extraordinarily painted frescoes, some partly damaged or missing but impressive nonetheless. I passed through the Loggia which had stories from the founding of Rome, then the Hall of Liberal Arts and of the Planets which featured paintings on such topics, then the Hall of the Emperors and Hall of the Giants which depictions of famous figures of the time and from the past, and finally the Chapel with stories of the Virgin. After visiting all the rooms, most of which also hosted some paintings part of the museum's picture gallery, and a part dedicated to archaeological remains I decided to head outside. Down the stairs, to my surprise, I was baffled to see my Portuguese language teacher from back in the day when I had spent my Erasmus year in Coimbra. After a moment of confused looks, we both greeted each other and asked why we were there. Turns out, his wife and him were also doing the pilgrimage but in their case from Assisi to Rome. So after catching up on life and discussing tips and suggestions on the walk we took a photo together and then parted ways after a goodbye and farewell. After leaving the museum I headed back to the accommodation where I cooked some dinner while talking with the owners about my pilgrimage; then I had one last night stroll before heading to sleep.
The following day, after an early wake up I started to head out of the city in a northern direction stopping by the Church of San Giacomo which was open that morning. With a Renaissance-style exterior and a Baroque interior, it featured a nicely decorated cupola. Once outside I then crossed the Topino river and walked a few kilometers before reaching the nearby town of Spello. Part of the club of the most beautiful villages of Italy, it sits on top of a low hill and features the classic stone architecture of the area. After reaching the southern end of town, I walked through the Porta Consolare, an ancient Roman city gate that was used also throughout the middle ages that had then received a tower for defense. Spello was in fact already a large and well-known town during the Roman Empire and its archaeological remains greatly testify to that period. Upon entering through the old city gate, I started heading up the main street passing by some beautiful buildings all decorated with plants and flowers so typical of this region. I then passed by some churches which were still closed so I continued upwards until I reached the church of San Lorenzo which was open. Dating to the 12th century, I visited its interior which was remade in the Baroque style but which still features some traces of its past such as Renaissance altars and some Gothic frescoes. Once outside I then continued along the pretty streets and after reaching the northern end and highest point in town turned around and descended back down through another way. Here I came upon the impressive Venus' Gate, a 1st century B.C. perfectly preserved ancient roman gate flanked by Romanesque towers which must have substituted previous similar roman ones. The view from there was also nice giving a glance at the plains that spread eastwards from the town. Then back through the town, I passed by the two churches which were previously closed, now finally open. I entered the church of Sant'Andrea first, built during the 13th century it still features the original Romanesque facade while the interior suffered refurbishments during the 17th and 18th centuries. There is also a painting by Pinturicchio featuring the Madonna with child from 1508, inside. Next door, I then visited the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, also dating to the 13th century. The interior was mostly covered in scaffolding due to the ongoing restoration, but the main highlight, the Cappella Baglioni was free of any kind of covering. This chapel is known for being completely covered by a cycle of frescoes from the childhoods of Mary and of Jesus by Pinturicchio and dating to 1501. One side features the Annunciation, another the Adoration of the Shepherds, and the last the Dispute with the Doctors. The details and colors of the frescoes were incredible to look at and kept me there for quite a while. After the visit to the church, I then headed out and crossed through town once more passing by the town hall and main square, and exiting the town to the north. From then on the path winded its way through a hilly terrain covered in olive groves. Midday was approaching and the heat was getting stronger by the hour. Eventually, after a few kilometers, Assisi, my final destination was in sight. I reached the eastern end of town and entered the city center by passing through the Porta Nuova, a medieval gate. I then reached the large Piazza Santa Chiara, with the Basilica of the same name which was already closed for lunchtime, from where I had a great view of the surrounding landscape. What I noticed immediately was the large crowd of tourists, particularly foreigners, which were present here, a completely different feeling I had so far during my pilgrimage which was mostly out of the main tourist areas. This made the visit to the city much less enjoyable, despite the beauty of its buildings. A little onwards I then passed through the central Pizza del Comune once the spot of the ancient roman forum. At its eastern end stands the 18th-century fountain and close to it, at the center of the square, is the church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. Called so because it was built over the temple dedicated to the goddess Minerva, the facade featuring in fact still the original Corinthian columns and tympanum. The interior which was refurbished during the 17th century does not feature anything particularly noteworthy. Next to the church/temple is the Torre del Popolo with the Palazzo del Capitano, two 13th century Romanesque buildings that were the seat of the local government at the time. Walking then along the main street I finally reached the so long-awaited objective, the Basilica of St Francis, and the end of my pilgrimage. After the ritual photo posing in front of the church, I decided to enter and explore it. Built in 1228 it actually consists of two churches, one upper and one lower one, built on top of each other and featuring a crypt where the remains of St Francis are located. This is why the Basilica is one of the most important places of Christian pilgrimage in Italy. The building, together with other Franciscan sites around town is inscribed in the Unesco world heritage site list. Once inside I started by visiting the upper church which featured a large long nave covered in frescoes by famous artists such as Giotto, Cimabue, and other artists. On the 26th of September 1997, an earthquake had hit the central regions of Italy and unfortunately, the Basilica was hit as well with a section of the vaults of the upper church collapsing. The whole building was restored in just two years and most pieces were put back into place. After descending a series of steps I then reached the lower church which to my eye look even more impressive than above. Here more frescoes by the same famous artists as the rest of the church are present and below them the crypt where the spoils of St Francis are kept. After the visit to this impressive monument, I exited through the lower door and headed to the pilgrims' office where I was able to collect the testimonium which certified my pilgrimage to Assisi. From the front of the Basilica, I then followed a street that eventually took me to the top of the town where the Rocca Maggiore is located. a large fortress from the 12th century which dominates the surrounding landscape. After taking a few pictures of the panorama I asked a man to take a picture of me and after telling him about my pilgrimage I found out he is a teacher in Krakow so I told him about my time there by speaking a little bit of Polish to which he was quite surprised. I then descended back into town and reached the Cathedral of San Rufino, a beautiful Romanesque church built in 1140. Its facade was impressive with rose windows and a portal featuring typical medieval representations of mythical and non-mythical creatures and figures. Unfortunately, the interior, which was remade in the 16th century was quite empty and unappealing with just some nice side altars. Next on was the Basilica di Santa Chiara which had by now reopened after lunchtime. Built in a Gothic style during the 13th century, it features a single long nave with frescoes behind the main altar. Below it is the crypt where the spoils of Santa Chiara are held. I then continued onwards through town and visited the Baroque church of Chiesa Nuova first, with its nice painted cupola, and not far on the church of Santa Maria Maggiore a Romanesque church with a crypt that holds ancient roman columns. After reaching the western end of town I then visited the church of San Pietro with a nice gothic facade with rose windows and a simple vaulted interior. Right in front of the church, below the Basilica of St Francis was the bus stop from where I was able to catch a ride that brought me down to the town of Santa Maria Degli Angeli where the train station is located. But before heading onwards, I decided to have a look at the Basilica of Santa Maria Degli Angeli. This impressive and large church, built during the 16th century is famous because it was constructed around the so-called Porzincuola, a tiny church originally dating to the 4th century which is said to be where Saint Francis started his religious movement. So after seeing the interior of the tiny church with its gothic altar depicting the pardon of St Francis I then viewed the rest of the Basilica with its typical Renaissance architecture. It was then time for me to head to the train station from where I took the next ride towards Perugia. In fact, I had originally planned to sleep in Assisi, but because of the tourist season most places were booked and those free were either too far out or extremely expensive. So I took the chance to book a cheap place in the nearby city of Perugia to be then easier for me to go back home with a direct bus the following day and visit the city in the meantime. So once I arrived at Perugia's train station, I then took a local bus which brought me right below the city center. There I then took one of the many elevators and arrived in the core of the city. I walked through the main square, Piazza IV Novembre, with its many beautiful buildings encircling it such as the Gothic Palazzo dei Priori, the Cathedral, and the masterpiece that is the Fontana Maggiore at the center of the square. I tried to enter the Cathedral but a mass was taking place so I just had a quick peek inside and then decided to head to my accommodation to check in and shower. On the way, I passed through some nice medieval streets and then stopped to have a look at the Gothic church of Sant'Ercolano that featured a lavishly decorated Baroque interior. I then reached the Airbnb I had booked which turned out was the house of three Brazilian friends that were living in Perugia to study Italian and get their Italian citizenship as all of them had an ancestor who had come from Italy. We spoke Portuguese and I told them a bit about my pilgrimage to which they look quite interested in doing in the future. Then after a nice shower and dinner, I had one last stroll of the city at night before heading to sleep. The following day after a rather early wake up I decided to visit a few more things before catching my bus back home. I first visited the Basilica of San Domenico which was just around the corner from the accommodation. This large church was built in the 13th century but features a mostly baroque interior and its cloister is now the archaeological museum. I then walked through the main square once again and this time managed to see the Cathedral. Built in the Gothic style it features an unfinished facade while the interior was covered with marbles and decorations during the 18th century. From there I continued onwards and then passed through the impressive so-called Arco Etrusco, one of the city gates that surround the old town. The arch is actually an Etruscan gate, and one of only two surviving from that period. It was built in the 3rd century B.C. and restored by the Roman Emperor Augustus in 40 B.C: when the city came under Roman control.Still surviving to this day it is quite a sight to marvel at. From there I followed a street which granted a nice view of the neighborhoods to the north and then reached the church of San Filippo Neri with a nice baroque facade and interior. It was then time to go, so I headed out of the city center and then reached the bus station from where I was able to take the bus to Mestre and then there switch for another bus to my beach house in Jesolo.
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