Tom`s travels: Walk along Lake Garda (28/09/2018)

As my aunt had to drive in the direction of Lake Garda, I decided to join her and ask her to drop me off in the town of Peschiera del Garda. From there I started walking along the coastline following a lovely path that winded its way right next to the beach. It was slightly chilly as the sun was still low and there were several trees still providing shade. In spite of that, I still took off my shoes and walked inside the water up to my knees, the water was pleasantly chilly and clean. After walking a few kilometers I then reached the first town: Lazise. As I approached I immediately notice the medieval walls which encircle the small lake town and the impressive castle. Built during the 14th century the castle is a typical structure of this part of Veneto as it used to be ruled by the Veronese family of the Scaligeri. The walls, dating to the same period, and that once encircled the whole town still remain in large part with just a section of the eastern wall and the ones facing the lake having been demolished throughout history. I entered next to the castle, which was not accessible, through the southern gate, Porta Lion, named so because of the Venetian lion. I then walked along the walls and admired the eastern section where the Porta San Zeno is located. As I walked further I then visited the town's main church, Santi Zenone e Martino, a neoclassical building dating to the end of the 18th century which replaced a much older structure. Further on I then reached the small harbor, the core of the town, which featured typical colored houses and a small church which I visited. Dedicated to St Nicholas, it dates to the 12th century and features a rather empty interior, with just a few traces of the medieval frescoes. Right next to it, on the lakeshore, is the Dogana Veneta, a 14th-century low building which was used as customs house during the period the town was under control of the Republic of Venice. I walked a little bit admiring the view over the lake and enjoying the sun which has started to heat up the air quite a bit. After walking through the old town I then went out through the northern gate, called Cansignorio and walked a few kilometers until I reached a small shop in the town of Cisano. This shop sold all kinds of olive oils and related foods and also featured a small oil museum which I decided to visit quickly. All objects related to the oil extraction were exhibited, mostly coming from the nearby area. As I then entered the shop proper I decided to buy a bottle of oil to take to Ania's parents in Hamburg. Obviously, all the clients there were German families on holiday in the area and wishing to buy some oil to bring back home. As I then continued on I passed through the center of Cisano and stopped to have a look at the Pieve di Santa Maria. Dating to the 12th century it featured a nice white stone Romanesque structure. The interior, though, was highly modified and presented a mix of Baroque and Neoclassical styles. Continuing on I then stopped at a supermarket to buy some food which I took with me and looked for a small spot to eat it. I found a nice empty beach, laid down and enjoyed my lunch while dipping my legs into the water and soaking in the sun. After eating I got back on the path and reached the town of Bardolino right after. Once encircled by medieval walls like its neighbor Lazise, now just a few traces are remaining of that period. After walking along the harbor I passed by the tower which marked the northwestern corner and then walked through the pretty streets of the old town. I reached the main church, San Nicolò, and visited its interior, built during the 19th century in the Neoclassical style and replacing an older structure. As I headed out I then took a look at the church of San Zeno, quite unseemly from the outside as it was incorporated into a group of houses, but presenting a rather interesting Pre-Romanesque structure from the 9th century with traces of the ancient frescoes. Further on, right by the road I then reached yet another church, San Severo, built between the 11th and 12th centuries in the Romanesque style. It was unfortunately closed so I was only able to admire it from the exterior, and felt quite disappointed as I had read it had nice frescoes and well-preserved crypt. Walking on I then started to pass by large groups of camping grounds, the favorite spot of German and Dutch tourists. I then took a path away from the main road and started to ascend a hilly area covered in beautiful olive groves and overlooking the lake. As I walked on the path started to become steeper and I then continued on until I reached the top of a large rocky outcrop known as Rocca di Garda. This 283m mound just out into the lake and overlooks the town of Garda which gave its name to the lake. Garda, in fact, derives from the Langobard word "Warda" which means guard, due to a defensive structure being located on top of that mount. The view from up there was amazing and spaced all along the lake's coast. A narrow path then led down the mount from the other side of the one I came from which I decided to follow until I reached the town of Garda. Here I took a look at the church of Santa Maria Assunta which was originally built in the 11th century. The present structure dates to a later period and features a 16th century Renaissance cloister while the church itself, rebuilt in the 18th-century features a neoclassical interior. I then continued on and walking along the shore I reached the old town where I walked through the pretty streets. I passed by some nice buildings including a 16th-century Loggia built by the architect Sammicheli. It was time to go, so after enjoying the view of the lake for a bit and a nice 20km of walk throughout the whole day, I then took a bus which brought me to Verona where I switched and took the train all the way to Vicenza.