Tom`s travels: Trento (14/02/2018)

As my aunt had to work in Trento on this day, I decided to join her to visit the city. After having breakfast my aunt went to work and I headed to visit the Cathedral first. Built during the 13th century in the Romanesque style, it features some Gothic additions such as the large rose window on the facade and a few features in the interior. Particularly interesting is the baldachin of the main altar built in the 18th century in the Baroque style. Unfortunately, the interior of the Cathedral was being refurbished and the whole left nave was covered in scaffolding. I decided to visit the small archaeological site below the main nave and whose entry ticket was combined with the diocesan museum; this is the site where the early Christian Basilica of St Vigilius used to stand before the present Cathedral was built. The Basilica was built during the 4th century and features mosaics, many old tombs, and a larger room which then served as crypt to the Cathedral. After exiting the Cathedral I passed through the large Piazza Duomo, the main and largest square of the city. At its center stands the beautiful Fountain of Neptune dating to the 18th century. On the southern side is the Cathedral, and annexed to it, on the eastern side of the square is the impressive Palazzo Pretorio. Built in the 12th century it was then modified during the 17th century with a Baroque facade which was then returned to its medieval state only in the 1950s. Next to it juts out the Civic tower also dating to the same period which can be climbed for a view over the city. After viewing the beautiful square I then entered the Palazzo Pretorio to visit the diocesan museum hosted inside. The collection is very large and ranges from the 11th to the 19th century and there is also a section dedicated to the Cathedral's treasury hosted inside one of the rooms overlooking the church's main nave. Once I toured the museum, I walked along Via Rodolfo Belenzani, one of the most beautiful in the city. This is due to the fact that many of the most important palaces are located there and the church of St Francis scenically closes the street to the north. I first came by the Palazzo Quetta Alberti-Colico, with beautiful frescoes from the 16th century covering the facade. A little further up the street Palazzo Thun, dating to the 16th century and still with parts of its facade covered in frescoes. It is the city town hall and holds a nice courtyard which can be accessed freely and holds a niche with the original statue of the fountain of Neptune which was substituted by a bronze copy. Right in front of the Palazzo Thun, on the opposite side of the street is, in my opinion, the most beautiful palace in the city: Palazzo Geremia. Built between the 15th and 16th centuries in the Renaissance style, it holds some really impressive frescoes covering the facade, including one depicting the Holy Roman Emperor, Maximilian I. At the end of the street I then entered the Church of San Francesco Saverio, built at the beginning of the 18th century in the Baroque style. It holds a nice interior yet a plain white ceiling. After exiting the church I walked past some more palaces, such as the Palazzo Fugger Galasso and the Palazzo Salvadori, and then reached the most known landmark of the city: the Buonconsiglio Castle. Originally built in the 13th century, it is an extensive monument encompassing several buildings from different centuries. The Castelvecchio core, located on the northern part, dates to the 13th century; next to it is the Magno Palazzo a 16th-century Renaissance addition wanted by the Prince Bishop Bernardo Clesio. To the south stands the Torre Aquila, a medieval tower decorated with a group of frescoes called the Cycle of the Months and considered as one of the most fascinating profane themes of the middle ages. After entering the premises, I head to the ticket office located close to the older Castelvecchio part and bought the entry ticket for 6 euros. I first entered the tight courtyard which was surrounded by rooms filled with archaeological remains dating to the early middle ages, including column decorations, statues, and stone fittings. As I ascended the stairs leading to the higher floors of the court, I admired the few remaining frescoes decorating the inner side of the walls. Once up I reached the impressive Loggia built in the Venetian Gothic style with beautiful arches overlooking the city. I then entered the large Bishops' room, filled with frescoed portraits of local bishops starting from the year 1000 until 1800. Annexed was also a small chapel with a few traces of the fresco dating to 1475 that used to fully cover its walls. In the two rooms were displayed some really nice ceramic stoves from the 17th and 18th centuries. Walking up one more level, to reach the top I visited the beautiful room with frescoes by Fogolino representing cherubs and some decorated wooden beams. From there a narrow corridor led to the 16th-century addition of the Magno Palazzo. I passed through and admired the large Sala Grande, with decorated beams and frescoes, and the Sala degli Specchi, circular in shape because hosted inside one of the towers, with rococo decorations from the 18th century. I then passed through the library, whose frescoes, unfortunately, are not in their best condition and after descending the Scala del Giardino, I reached the impressive Loggia del Romanino. This impressive arched hall was frescoed by the famous Girolamo Romanino in 1532 and features an array of Biblica stories and mythological figures excellently painted. Next to it opens up the Cortile dei Leoni, a nice small courtyard with two statues of lions which were once part of a 16th-century fountain and which gave the name to the courtyard. From there I entered several other rooms: the Camera del Torrion da Basso, with frescoes by Fogolino detailing the episode of the life of Julius Ceasar, the Stua delle figure, with terracotta decorations, the Sala delle Udienze, with frescoes by Romanino detailing Roman emperors and one depicting Charles V. Next on I passed and admired the Camera del Camin Nero, named so from a large and unfortunately lost black chimney, with a nice frescoed ceiling, the Stua della Famea, frescoed by Dosso and Battista Dossi, which used to be where the Tribunal tried and condemned to death the irredentist Cesare Battisti during WWI. From there I exited through a door and reached the nice garden of the castle. A small door led to the what used to be the prison of three irredentists: Battisti, Filzi, and Chiesa. All three of them were killed in the castle's moat. After the visit to the castle, I was quite hungry so I then met again with my aunt to have lunch in the city and then head back home to Vicenza.