Tom`s travels: Morocco (15-24/01/2018)

After leaving Vicenza after lunch, we reached the city of Bergamo where we took a stroll around the old town before heading towards the airport. The flight took approximately three hours and once we reached Fes Airport, we decided to look for a place to change some money. After getting enough cash we then headed out to look for a grand taxi, a kind of share taxi which for usually a fixed price takes you to a common landmark or point. We met three friendly Serbians there and together decided to share the ride. Many taxi drivers were pestering us for really high prices and I sternly told them I would not pay over 150 dirhams. After a bit, one of the drivers accepted our offer and took us all the way to the train station. From there we went separate ways and Ania and I took another taxi, after bargaining a bit down to 20 dirhams, which took us to Bab Bou Jeloud, also called the Blue Gate, probably the most emblematic entry point to the old town of Fez. From there it was a short walk through the main street and then through tighter alleys to our accommodation, the Pension Katwar. We were a bit worried as it was late and I got reminded of the first day in Mexico, however after being followed by a man who offered to guide us to our place and managing to send him away we found our way and quickly checked in and went to sleep. After waking up and feeling super cold, due to our room being close to the rooftop which was, typical of the area, open to the sky, and being there no heating, we hoped for at least a hot shower. Then we went to the rooftop where we had a tasty breakfast and a hot mint tea with a nice view of the old town. After eating we decided to head out and start walking around the center, admiring the many instances of social life, the markets, the rush of people on their daily work. The city is a complete maze, so unlike European cities, it was hard to look at the map and head to the intended landmark. Instead, we just followed the flow and hope to end to one of the main sights and if not continue on. The first thing of note we encountered was the Sidi Ahmed al.Tijani Zawiya, a zawiya being an Islamic religious complex for education and commemoration. Even though we could not enter, the exterior was noteworthy due to the highly ornate wooden facade and the turquoise minaret. Nearby we then entered a building in a side street which granted us a view of one of the three tanneries, the Chouara tannery. These tanneries have the made the city known throughout the world, and this one, in particular, is the largest in the city and was built in the 11th century. It was impressive to see the numerous stone vessels where the hides of animals are soaked with the dyes together with cow urine, pigeon feces, quicklime, salt, and water to stick the color. They are then dried out in the sun either on rooftops or mostly on the hills surrounding the old town. Because of that, particularly in the tannery, the smell was very strong and guides would give mint leaves to people to soften the blow. As we entered in fact, a man offered us the same thing and after declining, proceeded to follow us, once on the rooftop though we then descended another way thus preventing the man from asking us money for showing us the entrance to the tannery which we obviously would have found ourselves easily. After exiting the tanneries we walked further through the maze of the streets and managed to enter the Al-Attarine Madrasa, the madrasa being a kind of educational institution. Built during the 14th century during the Marinid dynasty, it holds a tiny yet impressive courtyard with a large basin at its center and walls decorated with traditional patterns, carved stucco ornamentations, mosaic tiles, and Arabic calligraphy. At one point, by coincidence, a large group of Portuguese tourists entered the area and I surprisingly spotted my Portugues teacher from university there. I went to say hi and talked a while about my studies and life, and then waved goodbye when she exited with her group. We then climbed some stairs and reached the rooms which used to host the students studying at the madrasa. From the top, through a window, we had a nice view over the old town and of the minaret of the Zaouia Moulay Idriss II. After exiting the madrasa, we passed in front of the University of Al Quaraouiyine, considered to be the world's oldest. We weren't allowed in it as it was an Islamic building, thus confirming the fact that it is not truly the oldest university but rather more like a religious school. As we headed further into the medina, we encountered the Funduq al-Najjariyyin a traditional inn used by merchants and traders. Right in front of its entrance is the decorated fountain which was used by the caravans for water supply. We entered the funduq, by paying the entrance fee, as it now houses a museum about traditional wooden arts and crafts. The interior courtyard was very impressive and held three floors of museum space, from wooden ornamentations to traditional tools. Once we reached the rooftop we then had a great view over the old town and grabbed a drink at the local cafe up there. After the visit to the museum, we walked along the streets and decided to stop at a small place to have lunch with traditional food. We were brought many dishes wish cooked vegetables, chickpeas, couscous and bread. After filling up we walked further and ended ip at the Bou Inania Madrasa which we decided to visit. Another great example of Marinid architecture from the 14th century, it is the only madrasa in Fez with a minaret. Like the other madrasa we visited, it had beautiful wooden carved decorations and exquisite tiles. Once outside again we walked out of the Blue gate and walked along the walls to reach the Jnan Sbil gardens, a nice oasis of nature and calm away from the hustle and bustle of the medina. After relaxing there for a bit we decided to head on and crossed through the so-called Mellah, or what used the be the Jewish quarter of Fez, basically a fortified medina by itself o the western end of town. We then passed by the Royal Palace, owned by the king of Morocco and thus not accessible to the public, and went to the large Borj Fes shopping center where we bought some food. Heading back into the city, we passed under the Bab Al Amer, a 13th-century gate close to the Mellah. After a bit of walking, we then managed to reach out accommodation and went to the rooftop terrace to enjoy another hot tea while admiring the sunset and hearing the adhan calls to the mosques. The following morning after suffering again the cold of the night without heating, we woke up and had again breakfast with a great view. After exiting the city from the western walls, we then climbed uphill and passed by Borj Nord, a 16th-century fort based on the Portuguese ones built by the Saadi dynasty. A little further on we then reached the Marinid Tombs, ruins of monumental tombs belonging to the Marinid dynasty and sitting on top of a hill overlooking the old town. The view from there was really great and we enjoyed it together with some sun for a while. All around the hill, workers were setting and taking the animals skins used to make leather for the tanneries as the site is probably good for drying them. After descending the hill to the east and walking among a pretty cemetery, we entered the medina through the Bab Guissa and walked further among the maze of streets. After that, we headed back to our accommodation where we rested a bit before giving one last tour of the streets at night and a quick dinner.
The following morning we woke up early and had our last breakfast in Fez before catching the train which took us to Meknes, once the capital of the Moroccan Kingdom during the 17th century. After reaching the city's train station, we took a local taxi and asked to be dropped off at Bab Berdaine which we crossed under to then reach our accommodation, the Ryad Bab Berdaine (which ended up being the best of all our trip in Morocco). After checking in, we were giving a whole suite for ourselves all decorated in the typical Moroccan style. We left our luggage and decided to head out to get a grand taxi which would take us to the town of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, some 30km north of Meknes. The place is famous for being the place where Moulay Idriss arrived and brought Shiism to what would then become Morocco, and where his mausoleum is located, making it thus a holy site. Once there we then took a local taxi which quickly brought us to our desired destination, the archeological site of Volubilis. Originally a Berber settlement is it thought to have become capital of the Kingdom of Mauretania, before then falling under Roman control and prospering as a full-fledged city. After paying the entry ticket, we walked through the small museum detailing the site's history and findings and then walked through the ruins. We admired, the remains of Basilicas, temples, a still standing triumphal arch and impressive mosaics once belonging to sumptuous villas of the Roman nobility. After exploring the archeological area, we then headed out and finding no taxis, decided to walk towards the town of Moulay Idriss. Luckily right before reaching the town we noticed a bus headed to Meknes, and ran to catch it. Successfully managing to board it, we then reached the city a bit later deciding then to explore the medina. As we approached the city center, we passed by the impressive Bab Mansour, a monumental gate built during the 18th century with impressively decorated reliefs. Right in front of it stands the large Lahdim Square which had all the hustle and bustle of a large Moroccan city, unfortunately including chained ostriches and monkeys dressed with soccer jerseys. We crossed the large square, and surprisingly met the Serbians we had encountered in Fez and with whom we had shared the taxi. After a quick talk and a good luck, w entered the maze of streets and souks which characterize all Moroccan cities. At one point we reached and entered the Bou Inania Madrasa, after paying a tiny entrance fee: we were the only visitors at that moment making it an extremely peaceful and interesting visit. Though small, the Islamic school resembled those we had seen in Fez and in fact was built during the 14th century by the Marinid dynasty and is an extremely exquisite example of that period particularly thanks to its wooden carvings, marble decorations, and tiles. During our visit, we were even able to climb to the rooftop where we had a nice view of the surrounding old town. After strolling around for a while, we then decided to have dinner and as there weren't many options online we opted for one of the few listed which was also on the way to our accommodation. To call this Aisha a restaurant is most surely an exaggeration, as it is simply a small room open on one side to the street where a lady, probably the one who named the restaurant, cooked right on the spot on a stove located in that same tiny room. After sharing a tasty tajine, with plums and raisins but probably overpaying, we then headed back to our Ryad where we enjoyed the privacy our extremely sumptuous and large room.
The next day after a hearty breakfast in the beautiful interior courtyard, we then headed to the train station and caught the next outbound train to Rabat. After reaching the country's capital, we decided to head to our accommodation which we had booked through Airbnb. After reaching the place and finding out nobody was answering the door we called the host and had to wait half an hour before his arrival. In the meantime, we were lucky to find a Moroccan guy who spoke Italian as he had been living in Italy for quite some time, who let us at least inside the building to wait for the host. After checking in the room, which was not the cleanest and had a strong smell of smoke, we decided to head and visit the city. We first passed through the Bab Laalou, one of the many gates dotting the medieval walls, and entered the medina proper. We walked along a large Avenue and came in sight of the Kasbah of the Udayas, a large fortress containing the core of the old town. Located at the mouth of the Bou Regreg river, it was built during the 12th century by the Almohad Caliphate over a previous Almoravid kasbah. Due to its strategic location, it was the starting point of what would the become Rabat and it is separated from the rest of the medina by a large avenue lined with neat palms and well-kept hedges. As we entered through the Oudayas gate, we explored the small yet picturesque streets lined with beautiful white and blue houses giving it a pleasant Mediterranean feel. We then reached the ramparts where we had a great view, despite the cloudy weather, of the Atlantic ocean and the waves crashing on the beach below. Across the river, we also managed to spot the rooftops and minarets of the nearby town of Salè. Descending through the maze of alleyways, we reached the Andalusian garden, a large area n the southern part of the Kasbah which had been turned into a beautiful garden full of various types of plants, including orange trees which due to the period had their juicy fruits ripe and colorful. After exiting the fortress we walked for a while and then reached the large complex of an incomplete mosque. This is the site where the Hassan Mosque was supposed to be built after the Almohad Caliph had decided to build the largest mosque during the 12th century. Unfortunately, the project was never completed and now the remains of the columns which were started lay there in resemblance to a tiny maze. The only structure which was carried on but still not completed is the Hassan Tower, supposed to become the largest minaret, it was built halfway to 44m in red sandstone and with typical carvings and decorations. The interior had a ramp instead of stairs in order to allow the muezzin to ride his horse instead of walking to the top and call to prayer. Opposite the tower stands the impressive Mausoleum of Mohammed V, built in 1971 and containing the tombs of two kings and a prince. It is built in a modern style while recreating still an older one more typical with that of the medieval Moroccan dynasties. From there we walked for about half an hour through some really nice neighborhoods filled with villas and gardens and reached the southern end of the city where the Chellah is located. Once a Phoenician trading emporium and then a Roman colony, it later became the site of a medieval fortified necropolis named Chellah. After paying a small entrance fee, only for non-Moroccans, we entered the site which includes a large garden turned into a park, archaeological ruins and impressive medial walls encircling the area. We explored the archaeological remains including baths, houses, a forum, and a mosque. Of the mosque a beautiful minaret and structures dating to the 13th century are still remaining, all of which are taken as nesting grounds by many storks. After exploring the place we enjoyed the sunset and then headed back out into the city taking a stroll before then heading back to our accommodation where we decided to have dinner at a nearby cafè.
The morning after we took an early train and reached Casa Port, the second main station in Casablanca. After exiting the station we walked through the old medina, passing by the typical souks and past the 18th-century mosque of Ould el-Hamra. Not much further we reached the monument we had intended to visit, the Hassan II Mosque. The largest in Africa, and the fifth largest in the world it has the tallest minaret standing at 210m. It was built in 1993 and despite having a modern look to it, it has some really interesting carvings and decorations and is really impressive to look at. It stands right next to the Atlantic ocean and from there the sound of the waves can be easily heard giving it a calming and peaceful ambiance. After enjoying the sun, which after a few days of clouds, was warmly welcome, we headed to a nearby cafè where we had a tea sitting down. After the relaxing the tea, we headed back into the city and after crossing the medina once again found a place close to the main train station, Casa Voyageurs, where we had a really tasty vegetable tajine. After lunch, we caught the train headed to El Jadida where we would then spend the night. Once we reached the destination, we had to take a local taxi to the center as the station was quite outside the city center. We had booked an accommodation at a place called Dar El Jadida, right inside the famous Portuguese fort which is also the oldest part of the city. A friendly Venetian man, who was the owner, let us check in and talked a while with me about Venice and other things. After leaving our luggage we then headed to explore the small fortified center and started with one of the main attractions, the Portuguese Cistern. In fact, the city of El Jadida, which mean "the new" in Arabic, once used to be a Portuguese stronghold before falling in Muslim hands in 1769. The stronghold, known as the Citè Portugaise, or the Portuguese city, was held for about 250 years by the Lusitan country and was known as Mazagão. To sustain a siege, they built an impressive cistern, which we entered by paying a small fee. An old man, which we thought was the guardian, followed us inside and detailed its interesting history with a constant monotonous voice in a not so perfect french. After finishing the description he left us to explore the large room by ourselves; it was really impressive to look at the vaulted arches where a large oculus in the center would let rainwater in and be collected at the central pool below it. Due to its depth, there was also a small constant puddle surrounding it, giving an impressive sight and interesting reflections. As we exited, the old man followed us out and insisted we pay him for the "service" to which I thought was not really so as he just followed us and we assumed was part of the museum. I reluctantly gave him a few coins and went on to explore. As a self-respecting stronghold, Mazagão had its own religious building, the church of the Assumption built during the 16th century and surviving time, to be then turned recently into a hotel. From there we then climbed the ramparts and walked above the old town, admiring the view from the bastions, the hungry seagulls hovering over the rooftops and the sunset setting behind the horizon of the Atlantic ocean. We then decided to walk to the "actual" Moroccan city and exited the Portuguese fortress walking through the streets of the town. We later considered El Jadida to be the most traditional and relaxing of the cities we visited, as it was far from the main tourist sites we were never pestered or looked at as it occurred in the other places and people seemed genuinely friendly. We deiced, in fact, to buy some pottery right here, thinking we would get the best prices and the most genuine products. We ended up buying a large bowl each and paid very little for them. After that, we tried different street foods fining out the lowest possible prices for a kind of vegetable-filled dough of all our trip. After walking around for a bit we then headed back to our accommodation and woke up the next morning to have breakfast on the rooftop. Taking another taxi we headed to the station where we took a train to Marrakech our final city of the whole trip. The train took a while as we had to switch one is Casablanca and we reach our destination in the late afternoon. After exiting the station, we walked further to avoid the tourist ripoffs and intercepted a cheap taxi which took us close to our accommodation. From there we walked through tight alleyways among people staring at us and others trying to guide who knows where, and eventually reached our accommodation, the Riad Chennaoui. We checked in and then decided to explore a little of the surroundings. Completely different from the other cities, here were more tourists yet not as many as I had expected, probably due to it being low season. However many of the sellers were much more aggressive and other people just wandering the streets would try to distract you, press you to change way or simply called out to you in an annoying manner. After eating some street food we decided to head back and go sleep early, tired from our long ride. The next morning, sleeping in a room on the highest floor of the riad, we exited to the terrace where we had an incredible view of the city and the amazing snow-capped Atlas mountains which looked so close you could just reach your hand out to touch them. We descended down to the courtyard where we had a nice and filling breakfast before heading out. The weather had become much warmer throughout our trip, and we were now comfortable with no sweater on; nonetheless, I decided to take my jacket with me as it provided extra safety in case of pickpockets. Once out in the streets, we walked for a while passing by a nice and large square called
Place des Ferblantiers which gave us temporary respite from the insistence of sellers. Nearby we then entered the large complex of El Badi Palace, for a fee which we noticed was much higher than in other monuments in other cities of Morocco. The palace was built by the Saadian dynasty during the 16th century thanks to ransom paid by the Portuguese following their defeat in the battle of the Three Kings. Though partly in ruins, the structure was still maintained and now hosts some rooms with artifacts recovered in the area and from other sites around. At the center stands a large pool surrounded by orange trees with delicious fruits hanging from them. We walked around the complex and admired the buildings, including a nice walk up of one which granted us a nice view of the city, the whole complex and the Atlas mountains in the background. After exiting the place, we walked on and passed by the Koutoubia Mosque which was unfortunately closed. Built during the 12th century under the Almohads, it has a beautiful minaret 77 meters in height which has inspired others such as the Giralda in Sevilla. We then walked back inside the maze of the medina and wandered aimlessly until we chanced upon a nice shop, more like an outlet, of pottery. The prices were good and the quality excellent, and observing other places around the following days prompted to come back on the last day and buy around twelves small cups to bring back to my parents. Following further strolling, we then entered the Bahia Palace after paying the entry ticket. Quite filled with tourists, this 19th-century palace, as large as the previous one we visited but with many more rooms, was intended to be the greatest palace of its time. It features some small gardens, several large and tiny courtyards, pools, and all kinds of decorated rooms. After visiting the complex we then looked for a place to eat and ended up trying a cafè overlooking the Place des Ferblantiers which we had previously passed through. Following a tasty meal, we headed back and enjoyed a beautiful sunset from the terrace of our riad. The morning after, we woke up early, had a filling breakfast down in the courtyard and then proceed to visit the Saadian Tombs. We passed by the historical Kasbah Mosque, built in the 12th century and probably the most important in the city after the Koutoubia one. It stands in a nice open square with interesting houses and features a noteworthy minaret with typical decorations. Right next to the mosque, on the southern side, is the entrance to the aforementioned tombs. They were built at the end of the 16th century during the reign of the sultan Ahmad al-Mansur belonging to the Saadian dynasty. About sixty members of that family were interred in splendid mausoleums, featuring intricated decorations and all built in beautiful Italian Carrara marble. The place was a bit crowded, and there was a line to see the main mausoleum chamber as it features a narrow corridor that could only be accessed by a couple of people at a time. After the visit, we continued walking and shortly after were approached by a young well-dressed man who immediately told us he was not trying to sell us anything but rather asked us if we needed help to find a certain place. I was not really trusting him, and in fact, after telling us a bit about the area and walking with us, eventually brought us to a local soap shop showing us how the typical soaps are made into nice fragrances. He then just left and the shop owner, surely one of his friends came to us to offer several of his wares, we then explained we had no intention to buy anything, thanked and left off, followed by annoying and insulted grins. As we had still some time to spare we then decided to head to the Ensemble Artisinal Marrakech, a group of shops which had gathered together into a union to sell wares at higher prices but with certified guidelines and better working standards. After browsing around for a while, I decided finally to head to the pottery outlet we had seen the previous day and there bought some cups to bring back to my parents. After a final stroll around the medina, tasting several street foods here and there, we then retired to our accommodation to rest as we had both our respective fights back to Vicenza and Hamburg.