Sunday, February 4, 2018

Besançon (12/04/2017)

Taking an early bus, we left Strasbourg and reached the city of Besançon nearly four hours later. Unfortunately the bus stop was far from the city center so we had to take a tram headed in that direction. After reaching the city center, we decided to begin our visit on the left bank of the Doubs river, where the 18th century Eglise de Sainte Madeleine stands as parish for the small neighborhood on this side of the river. After visiting the church's interior we walked uphill and reached the Fort Griffon, dating to the 16th century and one of the many forts present all around the city. From there we had a relatively nice view of the city and enjoyed the sunny weather. Walking back down towards the city, we passed by a small square which had a fountain at its center called Fountain of Bacchus, and then passed by and entered the courtyard of the Hotel de Champagney, a 16th century palace. From there we took a left turn and passed the city's synagogue before reaching the river once more. Crossing the main bridge, the Pont Battant, we reached the main part of the city. We then reached the large Place de Revolution, with the Fine Arts Museum building which was unfortunately closed. Nearby we glanced at the old building of the Université de Franche-Comté and the covered market right in front of it. Walking further we passed and entered the Eglise de Saint Pierre also dating to the 18th century. Not far from there we admired the beautiful facade of the 16th century renaissance building of the Palais de Justice which used to be the parliament building of the Franche Comté. Walking along the main street, Grand Rue, we passed and entered the Eglise Saint Maurice from the 18th century. Not to far on we then came across the birthplace houses of Vicot Hugo on the right side of the main street, and right across from it the birthplace of the Lumiere brothers. Just a little further was the Square Castan, a park created around the archaeological remains, a few columns, of the roman city of Vesontio. Right next to the park in fact, stands, as a city gate, the Porte Noire, a gallo-roman triumphal arch built during the 2nd century. Passing under the gate, we had to walk uphill for a bit eventually reaching the impressive and imposing Citadel. A Unesco world heritage site, the Citadel is a 17th century fortress dominating the city fom the top of a rocky outcrop surrounded by the Doubs river on either side. The site is part of the larger extended site including all of Vauban's fortifications around France. Entrance to the main area was paid, and as it included a zoo, we decided not to visit but were still able to see part of the fortifications and a large area between the entrance and the main part of the citadel. We also enjoyed the sun and had our lunch in the park located there. As we were heading back down into the city we noticed some movement close to the street and were surprised to spot a Chamois just running around freely, we were worried it might have run from the zoo, though i doubt it as the exhibits were on the total opposite side of the fortress and it might just be an animal which strayed around as the mountains are not that far. Nonetheless, continuing our walk, we reached the river once more, where the 16th century Porte Rivotte was located. From there we had to walk quite a while and mostly uphill eventually reaching the spot where the Saint Leonard Caves are located. The cave we entered was very dark so we decided not to venture too far in despite having torchlights on our phones. The view from up there was really nice, with both the Citadel and the city on sight. Once back in the city, we headed to the Cathedral. Built in the Gothic style with some Romanesque features remaining from its earlier costruction it interestingly features two choirs; one Gothic and the other Baroque on each end of the church. The interior also hold a Virgin and Saints by Fra Bartolomeo, as well as a beautiful astronomical clock dating to the 18th century. After the visit to the church our last stop of the trip was the Musee du Temps. Hosted inside the Palais Granvelle, a Renaissance palace from the 16th century, this history museum hold several objects, including a large number of clocks as the name of the museum suggests, but also maps, objects, furniture and paintings relating to the city itself. The view from the upper part of the palace was also a pleasant addition. Entrance was free for students so it was really worth it.

The Palais de Justice

View of the Grand Rue

Typical housing along the Grand Rue

The Porte Noire

Entrance to the Citadel

View of the Citadel from river level

View of the Citadel and city from the Grottes de Saint Leonard

The Baroque choir of the Cathedral

View of the city from the Musee du Temps

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