Tom`s travels: Aquileia & Grado (30/04/2016)

Together with my mom and brother we decided to do a day trip to Aquileia and the nearby town of Grado so we got in the car and drove for 1 hour and 50 minutes and reached the first destination. Right before reaching the town of Aquileia we decided to have lunch at a restaurant called All'Anfora where I had some pasta with seafood. We then parked the car in town and headed on foot towards the Basilica, there we bought the combined ticket (9eur reduced) and entered the Baptistery first. The building is connected to the Basilica through a hall that leads to the center of the Baptistery with the baptismal font at its center; the Baptistery was rebuilt thrice and lost its cupola in the 18th century so now the roof is replaced by some brownish cloths that create an evocative atmosphere. Next to the Baptistery is a building called the Aula Cromaziana, or Sudhalle, which was a hall built by the Bishop Cromazio at the end of the 4th century which still hods an interesting mosaic representing animals such as sheep, goats, and even a peacock. From there we entered the actual Basilica building; the first church was built at the beginning of the 4th century and was later reconstructed four times while the present building dates to the 11th century. Once inside we marveled at the immense and amazing floor mosaic, considered to be the largest early christian mosaic in the world, and being it a Unesco world heritage site and so important it is covered by a glass floor on which to walk on. Throughout the floor there are several stories told through the mosaics, such as the fight between the tortoise and the rooster, the shepherd and the flock, and then many other figures such as fishermen, benefactors, and many different fish. Along the sides are the 5th century columns, on top the 15th century ceiling, and far to the end the apse with a 11th century fresco with Mary and some saints. Below the apse, a 9th century crypt with 12th century frescoes with stories of Saint Ermagora and others of Christ. On the northern side of the Basilica, below the bell tower, is an area with several layers of archaeological remains from different periods. Mosaics of a roman house from the 1st century, and then several splendid mosaics from the 4th century detailing animals such as a lobster on a tree, a plate of snails, another with the rooster against the tortoise, and several birds. We then started our ascension of the 11th century bell tower, that had a well kept mosaic on the ground floor; reaching the top after 73m and 126 steps we had an incredible view of the surrounding landscape with the peaks of the mountains still full of snow. After exiting the tower, we then walked along the old roman road that passed through the old roman river port sided by beautiful trees and countryside. We then turned around and passed through the roman forum with some columns still standing. Further on another open air archaeological area with roman houses and oratories which were used as private altars of the local families. After that we entered the National Archaeological Museum, with several objects of the daily life of the ancient roman population of Aquileia such as glassware, coins, utensil etc. In the gardens of the museum were displayed, though quite dusty and abandoned, some really interesting mosaics depicting different scenes such as one with Clymene a river nymph.

From Aquileia we drove onwards, crossing the lagoon, and reaching the town of Grado. The town is considered to be the first Venice, as it was the first place the roman refugees sought out after the invasion of Attila. We parked the car and continued on foot, passing through its small and lovely streets which reminded me much of the lesser known parts of Venice. We reached the small main square, called Campo dei Patriarchi, with the two important Basilica's on either side, We first entered the Basilica of Saint Eufemia, that used to be a Cathedral before the suppression of the Grado Patriarchate, the church was built in the 6th century with a 5th century Baptistery, and a 15th century bell tower. Inside it has many roman columns, a 13th century moorish styled pulpit, and an amazing floor mosaic dating to the 6th century with human and animal figures. Next was the Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie, also dating to the 6th century, with a empty yet beautiful interior with roman columns and floor mosaic. Walking on through the town we passed by the remains of a third Basilica, also dating to the 6th century, with only a few pieces of wall remaining and some parts of the floor mosaic. We then walked along the seafront and ended the night with a nice dinner with fish and seafood.