Sunday, November 2, 2025

Trip around central Veneto (12/12/2024)

On a trip from Vicenza, I decided to visit a few places and towns in central Veneto. I woke up early, got in the car and drove northwards, reaching the first destination of the day, the church of San Donato on the outskirts of the city of Cittadella. Originally dating to the 7th century, it was then rebuilt in its current Romanesque form during the 12th century after an earthquake. The interior holds some 14th-century frescoes, which I couldn't see, however, as the church was closed. At that point, I got back in the car and drove then to the city of Camposampiero. I first visited the Santuario del Noce, one of the town's religious sites connected to Saint Anthony, who spent a short period here before his death. The saint used to dwell in a cell next to the church of St John and would then preach at a nearby walnut tree; on that presumed spot, the sanctuary was then built in the 15th century. Inside, I then admired the nice medieval frescoes detailing the life's saint, including his preaching at the walnut tree. From the sanctuary, I then walked to the church of Santi Giovanni Battista e Antonio, better known as the shrine of the Vision. In addition to the church, the complex is made up of the facilities housing the local convent of the Order of Friars Minor Conventual. According to tradition, it is here that the famous vision of the infant Jesus took place, making the shrine one of the main places associated with the cult of the saint. A church originally stood since the 12th century but was refurbished and replaced several times throughout the centuries. Eventually, the current structure took form at the beginning of the 20th century. Inside is the cell where Saint Anthony lived at the invitation of Count Tiso VI for a period of meditation and rest. Once the count, who often went to the cell to meet with the saint, saw an intense glow emanating from the inside. As he approached, he recognized Anthony holding in his arms a child, Baby Jesus. The latter revealed to Anthony that a guest, precisely the Count, was watching them. The Saint, having finished the apparition, begged the count not to speak to anyone about what he had seen; only after the Saint's death would the Count tell of this episode. I visited the church's interior and the cell, and then headed out to explore the rest of the town. I reached the main square, Piazza Castello, where the civic tower, the Torre della Rocca, dating to the Middle Ages, and the Palazzo Tiso, once part of the castle complex, and now the town hall, are located. On the other side of the square, I then visited the small church of the Madonna della Salute. Continuing onwards, I walked along the main street and passed by another medieval tower, the Torre di Porta Padova, once part of the walls of the feudal castle and owing its name to its proximity to one of the five city gates. I then completed my round of town by passing by the 16th-century Villa Querini, before eventually making my way back to the car. After that, I drove on to the next town, San Giorgio delle Pertiche. I had a brief stop here to visit the local church, dedicated to Saint George. Its detached bell tower is actually an 11th-century tower once part of the local castle, while the church itself is a 19th-century neoclassical building. After visiting that, I drove on to reach the nearby town of Borgoricco. The peculiarity of this area north of Padua is its regular subdivision made up of long and straight roads intersecting and forming a checkerboard that, despite the passage of centuries, has retained the form of the ancient Roman grid. In this town, I wished to visit the museum dedicated to this territory, but I unfortunately found it closed. So instead, I just visited the nearby church of San Leonardo, built in a neoclassical style at the end of the 18th century over a much older previous one. On to the next town, Massanzago, I visited the large Villa Baglioni, located at its center, and now holding the town hall. Its interior was open and really worth it as it contained some beautiful early 18th-century frescoes by the then young Giambattista Tiepolo. The ground floor also had some nice frescoes by another artist, Antonio Zucchi. After visiting the villa I walked around its park and then headed to the car to drive to the next city, Noale. The city features a nice historic center with a castle and surrounded by a moat. I first approached the old town from the west, where I had parked the car, and after crossing the moat, reached the central part of town. The weekly market was still ongoing, but the first stalls were starting to close. I decided to enter the main church, Santi Felice e Fortunato, originally from the 12th century but refurbished in the 15th and again in the 18th and 19th centuries. Inside, there were some nice artworks such as a 15th-century baptismal font, works by artists such as Vivarini, Carpaccio, Palma il Giovane, and a 16th-century altar by Sansovino. After visiting the church, I continued on through town and then headed across the square towards the entrance of the castle. I found it closed, so instead I decided to walk along its perimeter and see it from the outside. Dating to the 12th and 13th centuries, the Rocca dei Tempesta was the residence of the Tempesta family, Lords of Noale. It was used for military purposes until the 15th century, then became the seat of the podestà until the 18th century, after which it was left to ruin and its parts used to obtain building materials. Nowadays, despite not being fully complete and partly ruined, it is still a sight to admire. After the walk around the castle,e I headed back into town and explored the rest. I passed by the nice 15th century Palazzo Negro, and then the 32m high clock tower from the 14th century, with the annexed gate that was the eastern and most important entrance to the old town. Behind it was the Palazzo della Loggia, originally a medieval building but rebuilt in its current neo-Gothic form in the 19th century. From there, I then reached another square, Piazza XX Settembre, sided by some nice buildings including the 16th century Palazzo Soranzo-Scotto, the 15th century chiesa di Santa Maria dei Battuti with a fresco of the Madonna, and at its center the Colonna della Pace, once holding the Lion of St Mark's, symbol of the Venetian dominance. Nearby, I then passed by the Loggetta of Largo San Giorgio, built in 1930 to hold the market. From that point, I turned around and headed back into town, walking some minor side streets until I reached the western end, where the Torre delle Campane was set, once the other gate of the city. Built around the 12th and 13th centuries, it was then elevated further during the 19th century, reaching its current height of 43m, making it the tallest building in town. I had then completed the round of the town and headed back to the car to drive on to the next town, Santa Maria di Sala. Here, I visited the main site, the Villa Farsetti. Built between 1744 and 1774 for Filippo Farsetti and included, like many other Venetian villas, gardens, labyrinths, greenhouses, groves, a botanical garden, as well as service buildings such as the court, a guesthouse, a stable, and a church. With a length of 93m, the main palace building is one of the largest in the region; however, as I headed on to explore it, it looked quite run down from the outside. I couldn't visit inside as the villa is usually just open during events and such. After walking around its park, I headed back to the car and drove on for a quick stop in Scaltenigo. Here I visited the church of the Cattedra di San Pietro, built in a Romanesque style during the 14th century and still keeping most of its original form. The bell tower was rebuilt in the 16th century, while the church's interior was refurbished in the Renaissance, baroque, and mostly neoclassical styles and holds a nice ceiling fresco by Tiepolo. A short drive away, I reached the city of Mirano. Here I first had a look at the Duomo, built over a previous church in the 17th century in a baroque style; I couldn't linger much as a funeral was starting, but I still appreciated its nice interior. The tall detached bell tower, reminiscent of the one in Venice, was built in 1737 and towers above the town center. I then walked through the main square, which would look even better if they could manage to close it to traffic. Nearby, I saw a nice well head and the column with the Lion of St. Mark's, dating to the 16th century. Symbol of the rule of Venice, it is considered one of the most beautiful columns still standing in the region. I had a walk around and admired the typical low architecture with the small courtyards typical of the area around Venice, particularly close to the sea. From there I then walked on to see the Villa Morosini, a nice 17th century villa surrounded by a beautiful park which connects to another villa, Villa Belvedere, this latter refurbished in the 19th century. I walked around the lovely park and then past two more private villas, Villa Barbarigo Rendina from the 18th century and Villa Barbarigo Carraro from the 17th century. After walking around town, it was time for one last stop in the town of Salzano. Once there, I first visited the Villa Romanin Jacur, a 17th-century Venetian villa with a nice park and a steam-powered spinning mill, both added in the 19th century. Walking to the center of town, I then visited the main church dedicated to St Bartholomew and built in 1843 with a nice detached 69m high bell tower built between 1712 and 1879. After that visit, it was time to get in the car and eventually drive back home.

The church of San Donato near Cittadella

The Santuario del Noce in Camposampiero

Interior of the sanctuary church

The town's main square, Piazza Castello

The Torre di Porta Padova

The 11th century tower of San Giorgio delle Pertiche

The church of San Leonardo in Borgoricco

Villa Baglioni in Massanzago

Frescoes by the then young Tiepolo inside the villa

The church of Santi Felice e Fortunato in Noale

The Rocca dei Tempesta

Another view of the castle

The Torre delle Campane

The Torre dell'Orologio

Villa Farsetti in Santa Maria di Sala

The church of San Pietro in Scaltenigo

The main square in Mirano

Villa Belvedere

Villa Romanin Jacur in Salzano