Tom`s travels: June 2025

On another trip from Jesolo, I headed north to visit a bit of Friuli. My first stop was the town of Zoppola, which I hadn't included when first planning my itinerary, but seeing as the itinerary passed close by and it featured a small but nice historic town I decided to include it as well. I parked the car next to the modern hall and saw a lot of stands and tents set up around the area. It was still rather early and no one was around but it seemed like a food festival would take place here later in the day. Continuing on I reached the town's castle, dating to the 14th century but perhaps originally built around the 11th century. Owned by the Panciera counts it also features an inner courtyard with 16th-century frescoes on the walls similar to the nearby Spilimbergo castle. As the castle is still a private property I could only see it from outside but was still impressed by its structure. Back in the town center I then entered the parish church, dedicated to St Martin, rebuilt between the 18th and 19th centuries in a neoclassical style. After the round of the town, I got into the car and drove onwards to reach the town of Sequals. Here I stopped briefly to see the house of Primo Carnera, one of the most important and famous boxers, active until WWII, who was born and then died in the town. Nearby Sequals, on a hilltop at 303m, I then reached after following a forest path, the castle of Solimbergo. Built around the 12th century it was then abandoned during the 17th century. It currently stands partly ruined, with the outer walls and the keep refurbished recently. From there I had a great view of the mountains to the north and the Meduna river below. A short drive then brought me to the small town of Toppo, part of the municipality of Travesio. It is among the most beautiful towns in Italy. Here I strolled through the sparse town, consisting of stone houses with arched porticoes and courtyards and interior gardens typical of the area. I then tried visiting the church of San Lorenzo, built in the 19th century over a previous church but found it closed. I passed by the Palazzo Toppo-Wassermann, a nice example of a country mansion from the 16th century and refurbished in the 18th century. From here I then followed a path heading uphill through a forest and eventually leading me to the castle of Toppo. An important example of fortified architecture from the 12th to 14th century in Friuli, it was recently refurnished as despite being partly in ruins it is in a good state of preservation. It features a circular wall enclosing the central mighty tower-keep while outside stands a little church. From here the castle, and now the view, dominates the surrounding landscape, mountains behind and plains ahead. After heading back down and reaching the car I drove on to get to the town of Meduno. Here I saw the nice Palazzo Colossis, built between the 16th and 17th centuries, with two inner courts, and nowadays hosting local administration offices as well as a police station. Above the town I then visited the castle of Meduno, built in the 12th century it was first damaged a century later during a war, and in the 18th century by an earthquake. Nowadays it is in ruins with just the foundations remaining. Back in the car, I drove to the nearby town of Navarons, located on hilly terrain between the mountains and above the Meduna river. It features a nice historic center, with stone houses and the church of San Pellegrino. The town is also known as its population in 1864 organized an uprising marching down in the plains to the towns of Spilimbergo and Maniago with the aim of attacking the Austrian garrison, occupying the gendarmerie barracks, raising the tricolor banner there, and inviting the populations to rise up against the Austrians. Unfortunately, they succeeded only in disarming the Austrian gendarmerie but not in getting the population to rise up. The people did not join the uprising and thus the uprising failed, having to wait two more years for the area to join Italy. From Navarons, I drove further uphill, eventually reaching the town of Poffabro set at over 500m and right below a backdrop of mountains. Featuring a nice historic town it is part of the club the most beautiful towns in Italy and has a great view of the mountains to one side and the plains to the other. After parking the car I continued on foot and walked through the nice narrow streets lined by typical stone houses with wooden balconies and exposed beams. I entered the church of San Nicolò, rebuilt at the end of the 19th century, and which stands at the northern end of the town's main square. The square also features a nice fountain at its center and like a large balcony a beautiful view of the surrounding landscape. After strolling around the pretty town a short drive took me to Frisanco, part of the same municipality of Poffabro and acting as the municipality center. Also characterized by stone and wooden architecture it is slightly less nice than the other town but still picturesque. I first visited the parish church, that of Sante Fosca e Maura, dating to the 17th century but refurbished in the following centers and with a tall slim bell tower. I then wandered through the nice streets of the old town admiring the architecture including some interesting houses and palaces with old stones and decorations. Once back in the car I then drove south heading downhill and reaching the plains once more. I entered the city of Maniago and stopped at the supermarket to grab some food. I then parked the car and strolled through the city center. I walked through Piazza Italia, formerly also known as Piazza Maggiore, one of the largest squares in the region with at its center a 19th-century fountain and surrounded by the town's main landmarks and other buildings. To the north of it, I saw the Loggia Centrale, built in 1661 to replace an earlier building used for the assemblies of heads of families. The loggia was used as the seat of the courthouse and the city market while today holds the monument of the fallen soldiers of all wars. From the square, I followed a road heading uphill, past an area known as Centa dei Conti sided by medieval walls, and the small church of the Santissima Trinità built in the 17th century. The area is called Voltapicara, which, according to popular tradition, refers to the hangings that took place here since the Middle Ages. Following the road onwards I eventually reached the castle, standing on a hilltop, above the town but still overlooked by Jôuf mountain behind it. Built in the 12th century it was then damaged in a disastrous earthquake in 1511 and eventually completely abandoned a century later. Once a grand complex, it now stands partly in ruins with many of the stone structures and walls still standing. In front of it is also the small 13th-century church of San Giacomo. I headed into the ruins but found it hard to walk around as it was all overgrown and with knee-deep grass, bushes, and sometimes spiky plants. However, it was still exciting to explore the ruins, and the view from there was great with the town of Maniago below and the surrounding plain. Heading back down into town from another path I then entered the small church of the Immacolata Concezione, built in 1778 in a neoclassical style. Next to it, facing the square is the Palazzo d'Attimis-Maniago, dating from the 18th century and consisting of a central body, the stables, and the barns. On the facade facing the square, there's a 16th-century loggia and a fresco by Pomponio Amalteo, depicting a lion holding the noble coat of arms of the Counts Attimis Maniago under its paw. Walking across the square I then reached the Duomo, one of the most significant examples of late Gothic architecture in Friuli. It was erected in 1488 on the remains of an earlier building dating from the time of the Lombards and features an 18th-century pointed-arch portal with decorative figures from the 8th century stuck in the facade as well as gothic central rose window, and the 36m high 15th-century bell tower refurbished between the 17th and 18th centuries. The interior is also noteworthy consists of a single nave with wooden trusses and several pieces of art. Among them, are several Renaissance stoups, paintings from important artists, as well an altarpiece by Pomponio Amalteo from 1558 and choir frescoes by the same painter dating from 1572. After the visit I headed back to the car and drove on, crossing over the Cellina river, at the Ravedis bridge. Here a dam created the Ravedis Lake and the Cellina River formed some pools where lots of people were swimming in its crystal clear waters to fight off the heat. Not far ahead I then stopped at the church of San Rocco along the road surrounded by a cemetery. Built on a pre-roman religious site, the church was initially dedicated to St. Mary of the Assumption and dating to the 12th century, but then dedicated to St Roch when it was refurbished in the 16th century. In this latter period, the church took its current form and remains unchanged. Inside are in fact some beautiful frescoes decorating the chancel, dedicated to the life of the Madonna and painted by Giovanni Maria Zaffoni, known as Calderari between 1559 and 1563. Continuing on I passed through the town of Montereale Valcellina with its 18th-century neoclassical parish church, and then had a brief stop in front of the A. Pitter hydroelectric power plant. Built in 1903 and active until 1991. At the time of its inauguration, the power plant could boast several records: it was the first three-phase plant in Italy, it had the highest output voltage in Europe, at 30 kV, and it was connected to the longest power line in the world, a full 87 km all the way to Venice, which also allowed the streetlights of St. Mark’s Square to be lit. It was also the second-largest power plant in the world in terms of installed power, and the one equipped with the most powerful alternators ever built. In 2006 it was turned into a museum and can now be visited. Driving on I followed the foothills and eventually drove uphill to reach the Santuario della Madonna del Monte. This sanctuary, according to tradition, was built on the site where the Madonna appeared to farmer Antonio Zampara in 1510. The shrine was consecrated in 1615 and refurbished in the early 20th century. Nowadays its also a popular site as it grants a beautiful view of the plain below which I enjoyed as well. Heading back down by car I then stopped in the town of Aviano, here, on the main square is the imposing 18th century Villa Menegozzi-Brazzoduro, as well as the Duomo, built between the 18th and 19th centuries to replace a smaller Renaissance church. The town is also known for holding a large Air Base, an Italian military facility used by the USAF, the U.S. Air Force. Continuing on my drive I reached the nearby town of Castello d'Aviano. Here was a small but nice historic center with a square with a fountain in its center surrounded by old buildings. Like in nearby Aviano, a wonderful view of the Monte Cavallo massif towering above the plains. Here was also the castle, originally built in the 10th century on a hill, which gave the name to the town, but which closed due to restructuring. Rather than a castle, it is a fortified structure, consisting of two towers, remains of the keep, and part of the city wall within which are the church of Santa Maria e Giuliana and some dwellings. In town is also the Villa Policreti, a neoclassical villa now home to a golf club. Once back in the car, I drove on following the foothills until I reached a parking lot close to the main road. Here I stopped and first visited the sanctuary of the Santissima Trinità, supposedly a very ancient place of worship. Legend has it that in the 5th century, the Trinity supposedly appeared here to Emperor Theodosius, who urged Pope Sixtus III to build a shrine at the site of the apparition. The area was also most probably home to early Christian and perhaps pre-Roman cults related to the presence of the spring waters of the Livenza River. The current sanctuary building was refurbished in the 16th and later 18th century taking its current form due to a large influx of pilgrims. The church features a beautiful altar and fittings as well as a gilded main altarpiece and Renaissance frescoes. Nearby are the Santissima springs which as mentioned were the source of the cults in the area. Still today they are a marvel to admire, with their crystal clear water and deep light blue color. I followed a path along the stream and then returned to the car. It was then time for me to head to my final stop. I continued west following the mountain line and arrived in the town of Caneva. Here I followed a road uphill and reached the castle. I had to park along the road and walk the last part on foot. Dating to the 11th century, it stands on a rocky spur in a strategic and commanding position, offering magnificent views of the surrounding valleys and mountain ranges. Once on top, in fact, the sunset was approaching giving the view an ever more beautiful golden hue. Consisting of an outer wall ring, and an inner one, at its highest point stands the keep, and the church of Santa Lucia with its bell tower turned into a fortified tower and with the bas-relief of the lion of St. Mark's symbol of the dominance of Venice. After belonging to different entities throughout its history, from the Church of Aquileia to the da Camino family, and later Carraresi, it was taken by Venetian troops in the year 1420. From the 17th century the decline of the castle began, and today all that remains of the complex are the walls, tower, and church. After enjoying the view for a bit it was then time to go, heading back to the car and driving home.