Salerno (11-12/01/2020)

 After the Christmas break, I returned to Rome for work and on a nice sunny January weekend, decided to go see my aunt, uncle, and cousin in Salerno. I left work and took the metro to the Anagnina station, and from there took a bus which in about 3 hours brought me to Salerno. I arrived quite late on Friday night, so decided to head to sleep right after reaching my relatives' house. The following morning, I slept quite a bit, and then woke up to a nice sunny day and decided to take a stroll around the neighborhood with Rosebud, my aunt's dog. Then I spent lunch and the rest of the day with my aunt and cousin around town running errands. During the afternoon, I then decided to head to the port and stroll along the seaside admiring from the pier as the sun set behind the Amalfi Coast mountains. Then I headed towards the city center, and stopped at the church of Sant'Anna, right by where my aunt used to live and visited the small nativity scene museum located inside. Then I walked over to the Villa Comunale park, where a beautiful arrangement with lights was set up. I had in fact taken the chance to see Salerno during this period because of the annual Luci d'Artista show; during the Christmas period, some squares and streets of the city feature lights conceived by contemporary artists, who qualify for the high scenographic value or for strongly symbolic and conceptual values. The arrangement set up at the Villa Comunale portrays the theme of a fairy-tale garden, this year with figures of animals from all over the world. I saw deer, flamingoes, panda, giraffe, lion, fox, whale, and even colorful parrots. The arrangement was really well made and amazed me as I did not expect it to be so spectacular. The park was in fact full of people and especially kids who enjoyed the view as I did. From the park I then walked through the city center admiring the rest of the lights; I particularly like the one in Largo Campo which featured a sea of blue lights and sea animals hanging from it as if swimming in the ocean. Walking through Via Mercanti, the city's main street, I admired more light and then reached Piazza Flavio Gioia where a huge light tree was set up to cover the entire round square. I then decided to head back to my aunt's house for dinner and later to sleep. The next day I woke up early deciding to head to the nearby town of Vietri Sul Mare on foot. I had walked that way several times during the summer and fall, but never in January. The sky was clear and the sun warm, so I only took a shirt with me. After passing through the city center, I walked up the road that overlooks the port and a few minutes later was in sight of the first houses of Vietri. After descending down through the old town, I reached the beach and walked along the waterfront where some people were enjoying the sun while basking in the sun. I then walked back uphill and passed by the 16th century Torre d'Albori, set up for defense against pirate incursions, like many other towers along the coast. Right after the tower I then spotted a small staircase leading down, which I followed until I reached the beach below. Despite it being Sunday and sunny, I was alone down there and had the whole beach for myself. It was funny to think that once, during summer, when I had walked by, I had seen it so full of sunbeds and people that I had thought it impossible to even reach the water. Now I could just lay on the sand or on the rocks beside enjoying the sound of the waves and the warmth of the sun. At one point I had the crazy idea of taking a swim in the water; it had gotten so hot standing right on the rocks that the idea didn't seem so crazy, and in fact, after getting off my shirt and pants I jumped in the sea. The water was not as cold as I expected it to be and being there no wind I was able to dry off without any wind standing close to the rocks. After enjoying the sound of the sea among this beautiful spot I decided it was time to head back to Salerno for lunch. So after putting my clothes back on I ascended the stairs and from there walked back towards the city. Finally, after reaching my aunt's house I had lunch with her and my cousin. Not long after, I had to pack my bag and head to the train station where I took the bus back to Rome after a great weekend in the south. 

View of Salerno from the Marina

Sunset and sailboats

The penguin christmas lights

Deer christmas lights

Some animal lights at the Villa Comunale

Lights in the old town

A beautiful tree of lgihts

The beach in Vietri sul Mare

View of Vietri sul Mare

The small secluded beach near Vietri sul Mare

Iseo (26/12/2019)

After spending Christmas in Alessandria with all the relatives we drove towards Vicenza stopping at the airport of Bergamo on the way to pick up Ania who was spending a bit of time with me here in Italy. On the way back home from the airport, we decided to spend a little time visiting the town of Iseo and its lake. This small town is located on the southern bank of Lake Iseo, between the cities of Bergamo and Brescia. Among the main lakes of Northern Italy, this is one of the smallest but nonetheless beautiful and surrounded by historic towns. At its center stands the impressive Monte Isola, a large and tall island topped by some small towns. This island is Italy's largest lake island and it is the highest island of a lake in all of Europe. So after reaching the town of Iseo, we parked the car in one of the available parking areas and continued on foot through the historic center. We first decided to find a place for lunch and ended up heading to a restaurant called Trattoria da Rocco where we had some typical regional foods. After lunch, we then decided to explore the little town and headed first to its main square, Piazza Garibaldi. At the center of the square stands the statue of the Italian General Giuseppe Garibaldi, and interestingly the statue is the first statue ever cast of him, the first now of many which dot nearly every city in Italy. Around the square are the typical colored porticoed houses which characterize the urban aspect of most of the towns around the lakes in this part of Italy. From the main square, we then headed further and reached the Pieve di Sant'Andrea, the town's main church. This area is particularly interesting as there are three churches located one in front of the other creating this kind of religious core of the town. We first entered the Pieve, begun during the 5th century, which now featured a beautiful Romanesque exterior, dating to the 11th-century reconstruction. The bell-tower is not commonly built on the side of the church or away from it, but rather juts out from the center of the church right above the main portal. The interior was refurbished during the 19th century in the neoclassical style and maintained very few traces of its ancient past. Across the church on the other side of the street is the small church of San Giovanni Battista which featured a small simple interior with some interesting paintings and altars. Next to it is the Romanesque church of San Silvestro, now deconsecrated, which still features a Danse Macabre fresco, found in 1985. This so-called Dance of Death is a depiction consisting of the dead or a personification of death summoning representatives of all social classes to dance along to the grave. It was produced as memento mori, to remind people of the fragility of their lives and how vain were the glories of earthly life and the universality of death no matter one's richness or nobility. After visiting those three churches we then headed further through the town and reached the Castello Oldofredi, but at the southern edge of town on higher ground. Dating to the 12th century it still features the typical squared structure and made with local stone. As we walked through the main gate we entered the small courtyard which was presently being restructured: the building in fact nowadays hosts the town's public library. Right in front of the castle we then quickly had a look at the church of the Madonna Della Neve with a Baroque interior and a small trace of a medieval fresco depicting the Madonna. From the highest spot in town, we then headed back down through the winding streets until we finally reached the lakeside. As it was afternoon the sun was starting to set and there were still some clouds covering the sky so we weren't able to see it under the sunlight, but the view of the surrounding mountains and the far-away edges of the lake looked incredible from that point. After admiring the view for a while, the sun was nearly behind the horizon and the temperature cold enough to prompt us to head back to the car and drive in the direction of Vicenza.

The main square Piazza Garibaldi

Another view of the main square with the statue of Garibaldi

The Pieve di Sant'Andrea

The Danse Macabre fresco inside the church of San Silvestro

The lakefront

View of the Monte Isola island across the lake and the snowcapped mountains in the background

The Oldofredi castle

Monterano (08/12/2019)

 On another weekend from Rome, we took a day trip to visit the town of Monterano to the northwest of the capital, close to Lake Bracciano. After catching the train we got off in Manziana and from there started walking in the direction of our destination. We crossed through the center of Manziana and then reached the town of Canale Monterano which we also passed through in order to reach Monterano, a few kilometers to the west. Canale Monterano is in fact the modern town of Monterano that sprung up following the slow abandonment of the old town. This process was carried over gradually over a few centuries and the final blow came in 1770 when the town was hit by a malaria epidemic and later assaulted by the troops of the French army. After leaving Canale Monterano we followed a trail taking us through the forest and down where the small Cascata Della Diosilla is set. This little waterfall feeds a small river that goes through the Riserva Naturale Regionale Monterano, a whole nature reserve surrounding the ancient town. A little further on we then reached the Zolfatara, an area of volcanic activity that gives off sulfurous steam creating a small lake. The smell was obviously quite strong but the sight was worth it. The stream coming out of the ground also helped warm us up as we passed by. From there we then followed the trail further and passed through a via cava, an ancient Etruscan way dug out of the rock. This area has in fact been inhabited since ancient Etruscan times and is rich in such archaeological treasures. At the end of the trail we then finally reached the ancient town of Monterano. Today it is a ghost town and a popular attraction due to its proximity to Rome and for having been the backdrop of a few movies. From its Etruscan past, it then grew during the Middle Ages until it reached its highest splendor during the 17th century, then a slow decline started due to the area being mostly exploited for the sulfur mines present around it. Then, as mentioned, the diseases and foreign occupation sanctioned the end of the town and its depopulation until it became a ghost town. As we approached the ruins, we came across the large structure of the aqueduct, built in Roman times, that brought water to the town throughout its history. Next to it stands the ruins of the Ducal Palace, once a castle belonging to the Orsini family which was later transformed into a palace by the Altieri family which made the town grow during the 17th century. The development of the castle into a palace saw the hands of the famous sculptor and architect Gian Lorenzo Bernini who also sculpted a fountain with a lion, now in the town of Canale Monterano, and whose replica stands attached to the ruins of the palace, in its original location. We entered the ruins of the palace and climbed to the terraces to admire the old town and the surrounding landscape. Despite the cloudy weather, the view was still great and gave it a more authentic atmosphere of old and abandoned. From there we then reached the western end of town where a large open field held the ruins of the church of San Bonaventura with the replica of Bernini's fountain, now in Canale Monterano, standing in front of it. We then walked through the church's ruins and admired the interior filled with vegetation growing among the crumbling chapels. After that, we then walked back through the ruins of the ancient town and decided to head back through the trail we had followed previously. After walking back through Canale Monterano and reaching Manziana shortly after we caught the next train back to Rome. 

The Zolfatara sulfur springs

The trail through the Zolfatara

View of the ruins of Antica Monterano

The ruins of the palace

Inside the palace ruins

The view from the top of the palace

The ruins of the church of San Bonaventura with the replica of Bernini's fountain

A dog among the ruins

Attigliano, Mugnano & Bomarzo (30/11/2019)

On a nice end-of-November sunny weekend, my brother and I decided to do a day trip and visit a few places north of Rome. In about an hour by train, we reached the train station of Attigliano, a small town in the Umbria region. From there we decided to head on foot and reach our first stop of the day. We first passed by a supermarket where we bought some stuff to have lunch later in the day, then after just a few kilometers we crossed the Tiber river and reached the small town of Mugnano in Teverina located in the Lazio region. The fog which had settled in during the morning started to fade out as we reached the top of the hill where the town was located and a nice shining sun would accompany us from then on. From there we had a great view of the surrounding landscape, consisting of gentle hills on one side and the Tiber river and its surrounding plain on the other. We walked through the tiny center of the town and admired the old architecture including a surviving medieval tower once part of the wall that encircled the town. At the center stands the imposing Palazzo Orsini, a 16th-century palace once belonging to the powerful Orsini family and nowadays turned into a hotel. The southern side features a nice loggia which we could see from the street and which seemed to have frescoed walls as well. From the town, we then followed a trail that took us through the forest and up a hill passing along a nice via cava, an ancient trench built inside the rock during the Etruscan period. From the top, we had a great view of the valley below and decided to then follow a tight trail that took us through the forest and rocky terrain down below. We then approached an incredible sight, the Etruscan Pyramid, a large volcanic rock that featured a set of steps leading to its top. Not much is known regarding it, but it is believed to be probably an ancient sacrificial rock or religious temple from the Etruscan period. After exploring the pyramid and its surroundings we then headed back up the same trail and continued onwards through the forest until we came in sight of the town of Bomarzo. Here we decided to visit its old town characterized by the typical tufaceous buildings. At its center stands the large Palazzo Orsini, a 16th century palaced build over a pre-existing medieval castle which in fact gives the impression of a defensive structure rather than a palace. Behind the palace, facing the tiny pretty central square is the Duomo. Built in the renaissance style it features a nice elegant facade and a simple interior. After walking around and admiring the center we then headed downhill and in the direction of the town's main attraction. The Sacro Bosco or sacred forest, also known as the Park of the Monsters is a garden located in a wooded valley bottom beneath the town of Bomarzo. Created during the 16th century by Pier Francesco Orsini to cope with his grief after the death of his wife. it features grotesque sculptures and small buildings all made from the local bedrock. After paying for the entrance ticket, we headed into the park and started exploring the interesting sculptures inside it. The first sculptures we encountered were a pair of sphinxes that feature a welcome inscription for the visitor. The park was also supposed to astonish and confuse and not please the guests, as it also contains many references to ancient literature and a large array of arcane symbolism. Continuing on the trail we then encountered the statue of Proteus and that of Hercules and Cacus fighting, the latter being the largest sculpture in the whole park. Then come the statues of a tortoise and that of a fountain with Pegasus, the first symbolizing stability and longevity and the second, passion and instinctive impetuosity. Then followed a few other statues such as a theatre, a nymphaeum, and Venus before reaching the interesting Casa Pendente, or leaning house. One of the most interesting attractions of the Park, this small building was built on a sloping boulder and therefore deliberately leaning; the interior thus features an irregular slope causing a loss in those who enter it. A little further we then encountered the statues of Ceres, Neptune, Proserpina, Echidna, a dragon, an elephant holding a roman legionary, and a few other minor ones. In the midst of all of them stands probably the most interesting and famous statue of them all, the one representing Orcus. It is a large stone face with a wide-open mouth representing the god of the underworld on whose upper lip the words "ogni pensiero vola" ("all thoughts fly"), are inscribed. This suggests how the acoustics of the mouth allow any whisper made inside to be clearly heard by anyone standing at the base of the steps. Inside the mouth is also a stone table/bench onto which people dined, producing the effect of simultaneously eating and being eaten. The last structure, located on the highest point of the park, is a small temple and memorial to Giulia Farnese, Francesco Orsini's wife whom he dedicated the park to. It is an octagonal building with a mixture of classical, Renaissance, and Etruscan genres. It currently houses the tombs of Giovanni Bettini and Tina Severi, the owners who restored the garden in the last century. In fact, during the 19th and 20th centuries, the garden became overgrown and neglected, with an old photo showing sheep grazing among the sculptures, which were at the time all amassed closed to each other. The Bettini family purchased the site and then implemented a restoration program that lasted throughout the 1970s setting up the sculptures in the place where they are today. After going around once more through the park we decided it was time to head back. We retraced our steps up to the town and then continued on along the main road until we were back in the town of Attigliano. Here we walked through the tiny old town, admiring the sun setting in the distance, before finally catching our train back to Rome. 

The Palazzo Orsini in Mugnano in Teverina

View of Mugnano in Teverina

The Tiber river valley

View of Mugnano in Teverina and the Tiber river valley

The Etruscan pyramid

The way to Bomarzo

A street in Bomarzo

Bomarzo's Duomo

The view from Bomarzo

The statue of Hercules and Cacus inside the Park of the Monsters

The tilted house

The statue representing Orcus

The elephant with a legionary and a dragon

The small temple dedicated to Giulia Farnese

View of Bomarzo

Orte (24/11/2019)

 After moving to Rome for work in mid-November, I took the chance on my first weekend to take a day trip to the small town of Orte less than an hour north by train. After arriving at Orte's train station which is located a few kilometers from the city, I had to walk uphill to reach the city center. After nearly an hour I reached the old town, characterized by the typical medieval houses built on top of a high tuff cliff, present in many other cities of the area. I first encountered the church of Sant'Agostino, which was unfortunately closed, and then the church of San Silvestro, also closed, which holds the museum of the diocese. A little further I then arrived in the central square, Piazza Della Libertà, with the nice town hall crowned by the clock tower on one side and the Co-cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta on the other. Built on top of a previous medieval one, it was reconstructed during the 18th century in a mix of Baroque and Rococò styles. The interior is quite empty and unimpressive but features a nice airy cupola. As I walked further I then reached another church, that of San Francesco, also unfortunately closed, but I was able to at least admire the nice medieval cloister set next to it. As I continued through the city center, I reached some nice panoramic points from where I could admire the surrounding landscape. Despite the gloomy weather, the view was nice, particularly from the northern ramparts as I was able to see the Tiber river just below me. As I reached the western end of town, where the castle, now just a renaissance palace, used to stand, I had another great view this time of the countryside to the south of the city. The walls of the city were quite visible from this side, as they were probably built higher and stronger than the other side once protected by the river itself. As I completed my round around town, I finally headed to the tourist info point where I bought my ticket to see the city's main attraction: the underground city. Orte is in fact famous, like other places around the area, for its rich and vast amount of tunnels, caves, rooms, and structures which lay right below the houses. The entrance was through a guided tour with a few other tourists, all coming from the surrounding areas. The guide was in fact quite surprised I came from the north of Italy. The tour began right below the main square, where an underground fountain is set dating most probably to ancient roman times. Orte in fact boasts a continuity of life from the end of the Bronze Age to today's times. Inside the cliff on which the city is built upon, during almost 2500 years of uninterrupted life, the water supply network (tunnels, cisterns, wells) and wastewater drainage, warehouses, storerooms, cellars, stables, dovecotes, some living quarters, craft workshops and fountains have been created. This particular fountain is the main one receiving water from the aqueduct that dates to the 4th century B.C., so during the Etruscan period. As we circled the fountain, we passed through a tiny gate and entered the tunnels proper, dating both to the Etruscan and Roman periods. The guide showed us the difference between an Etruscan and Roman one, the former having conical shaped holes in the ceiling and the latter having ones shaped like roof tiles. As we meandered through the complex tunnel system the guide explained the history and use of each of the parts. The system was extensively used until nowadays, with a hospital even being set up which operated well until the end of world war II, when the population took refuge underground to escape the bombings which targeted the nearby train station. Nowadays the site is an important tourist attraction and some houses and enterprised still use part of it as their garage/cellar. Particularly noteworthy were the dovecotes found on the northern slope, towards the Tiber river, where pigeons and doves were held during the medieval times as a system to communicate with the outside and as a food supply. They were very similar to those I had previously seen in the underground system of the city of Orvieto, not far from there. Once the tour was over we popped out in the street near the castle, where our guide thanked us and waved goodbye. From there I decided to walk through the center and exit by the same street I had come in through. I headed downhill and then took a little deviation to the nearby hill where the Santuario della Santissima Trinità is located. Built on the side of the hill, partly inside the rock, this little sanctuary dates to the 14th and 15th centuries and features a nice little interior with a fresco dating to 1460. From the terrace, in front of it I was able to admire the old town of Orte on the hill right in front of it. It was then time for me to head back to the train station from where I was able to take the next ride back to Rome. 

View of the houses built on the high tuff cliff

A street in the old town

The church of San Silvestro

The main square, Piazza Della Libertà, with the town hall

Another street in the old town

A terrace with a view and an old cart

View of the town and the tuff cliff

One of the Etruscan tunnels of the underground city

View of the river Tiber

The dovecotes in the underground city

An old house in the old town

View of Orte