Trip around Friuli (03/08/2024)

On another trip from Jesolo, I headed north to visit a bit of Friuli. My first stop was the town of Zoppola, which I hadn't included when first planning my itinerary, but seeing as the itinerary passed close by and it featured a small but nice historic town I decided to include it as well. I parked the car next to the modern hall and saw a lot of stands and tents set up around the area. It was still rather early and no one was around but it seemed like a food festival would take place here later in the day. Continuing on I reached the town's castle, dating to the 14th century but perhaps originally built around the 11th century. Owned by the Panciera counts it also features an inner courtyard with 16th-century frescoes on the walls similar to the nearby Spilimbergo castle. As the castle is still a private property I could only see it from outside but was still impressed by its structure. Back in the town center I then entered the parish church, dedicated to St Martin, rebuilt between the 18th and 19th centuries in a neoclassical style. After the round of the town, I got into the car and drove onwards to reach the town of Sequals. Here I stopped briefly to see the house of Primo Carnera, one of the most important and famous boxers, active until WWII, who was born and then died in the town. Nearby Sequals, on a hilltop at 303m, I then reached after following a forest path, the castle of Solimbergo. Built around the 12th century it was then abandoned during the 17th century. It currently stands partly ruined, with the outer walls and the keep refurbished recently. From there I had a great view of the mountains to the north and the Meduna river below. A short drive then brought me to the small town of Toppo, part of the municipality of Travesio. It is among the most beautiful towns in Italy. Here I strolled through the sparse town, consisting of stone houses with arched porticoes and courtyards and interior gardens typical of the area. I then tried visiting the church of San Lorenzo, built in the 19th century over a previous church but found it closed.  I passed by the Palazzo Toppo-Wassermann, a nice example of a country mansion from the 16th century and refurbished in the 18th century. From here I then followed a path heading uphill through a forest and eventually leading me to the castle of Toppo. An important example of fortified architecture from the 12th to 14th century in Friuli, it was recently refurnished as despite being partly in ruins it is in a good state of preservation. It features a circular wall enclosing the central mighty tower-keep while outside stands a little church. From here the castle, and now the view, dominates the surrounding landscape, mountains behind and plains ahead. After heading back down and reaching the car I drove on to get to the town of Meduno. Here I saw the nice Palazzo Colossis, built between the 16th and 17th centuries, with two inner courts, and nowadays hosting local administration offices as well as a police station. Above the town I then visited the castle of Meduno, built in the 12th century it was first damaged a century later during a war, and in the 18th century by an earthquake. Nowadays it is in ruins with just the foundations remaining. Back in the car, I drove to the nearby town of Navarons, located on hilly terrain between the mountains and above the Meduna river. It features a nice historic center, with stone houses and the church of San Pellegrino. The town is also known as its population in 1864 organized an uprising marching down in the plains to the towns of Spilimbergo and Maniago with the aim of attacking the Austrian garrison, occupying the gendarmerie barracks, raising the tricolor banner there, and inviting the populations to rise up against the Austrians. Unfortunately, they succeeded only in disarming the Austrian gendarmerie but not in getting the population to rise up. The people did not join the uprising and thus the uprising failed, having to wait two more years for the area to join Italy. From Navarons, I drove further uphill, eventually reaching the town of Poffabro set at over 500m and right below a backdrop of mountains. Featuring a nice historic town it is part of the club the most beautiful towns in Italy and has a great view of the mountains to one side and the plains to the other. After parking the car I continued on foot and walked through the nice narrow streets lined by typical stone houses with wooden balconies and exposed beams. I entered the church of San Nicolò, rebuilt at the end of the 19th century, and which stands at the northern end of the town's main square. The square also features a nice fountain at its center and like a large balcony a beautiful view of the surrounding landscape. After strolling around the pretty town a short drive took me to Frisanco, part of the same municipality of Poffabro and acting as the municipality center. Also characterized by stone and wooden architecture it is slightly less nice than the other town but still picturesque. I first visited the parish church, that of Sante Fosca e Maura, dating to the 17th century but refurbished in the following centers and with a tall slim bell tower. I then wandered through the nice streets of the old town admiring the architecture including some interesting houses and palaces with old stones and decorations. Once back in the car I then drove south heading downhill and reaching the plains once more. I entered the city of Maniago and stopped at the supermarket to grab some food. I then parked the car and strolled through the city center. I walked through Piazza Italia, formerly also known as Piazza Maggiore, one of the largest squares in the region with at its center a 19th-century fountain and surrounded by the town's main landmarks and other buildings. To the north of it, I saw the Loggia Centrale, built in 1661 to replace an earlier building used for the assemblies of heads of families. The loggia was used as the seat of the courthouse and the city market while today holds the monument of the fallen soldiers of all wars. From the square, I followed a road heading uphill, past an area known as Centa dei Conti sided by medieval walls, and the small church of the Santissima Trinità built in the 17th century. The area is called Voltapicara, which, according to popular tradition, refers to the hangings that took place here since the Middle Ages. Following the road onwards I eventually reached the castle, standing on a hilltop, above the town but still overlooked by Jôuf mountain behind it. Built in the 12th century it was then damaged in a disastrous earthquake in 1511 and eventually completely abandoned a century later. Once a grand complex, it now stands partly in ruins with many of the stone structures and walls still standing. In front of it is also the small 13th-century church of San Giacomo. I headed into the ruins but found it hard to walk around as it was all overgrown and with knee-deep grass, bushes, and sometimes spiky plants. However, it was still exciting to explore the ruins, and the view from there was great with the town of Maniago below and the surrounding plain. Heading back down into town from another path I then entered the small church of the Immacolata Concezione, built in 1778 in a neoclassical style. Next to it, facing the square is the Palazzo d'Attimis-Maniago, dating from the 18th century and consisting of a central body, the stables, and the barns. On the facade facing the square, there's a 16th-century loggia and a fresco by Pomponio Amalteo, depicting a lion holding the noble coat of arms of the Counts Attimis Maniago under its paw. Walking across the square I then reached the Duomo, one of the most significant examples of late Gothic architecture in Friuli. It was erected in 1488 on the remains of an earlier building dating from the time of the Lombards and features an 18th-century pointed-arch portal with decorative figures from the 8th century stuck in the facade as well as gothic central rose window, and the 36m high 15th-century bell tower refurbished between the 17th and 18th centuries. The interior is also noteworthy consists of a single nave with wooden trusses and several pieces of art. Among them, are several Renaissance stoups, paintings from important artists, as well an altarpiece by Pomponio Amalteo from 1558 and choir frescoes by the same painter dating from 1572. After the visit I headed back to the car and drove on, crossing over the Cellina river, at the Ravedis bridge. Here a dam created the Ravedis Lake and the Cellina River formed some pools where lots of people were swimming in its crystal clear waters to fight off the heat. Not far ahead I then stopped at the church of San Rocco along the road surrounded by a cemetery. Built on a pre-roman religious site, the church was initially dedicated to St. Mary of the Assumption and dating to the 12th century, but then dedicated to St Roch when it was refurbished in the 16th century. In this latter period, the church took its current form and remains unchanged. Inside are in fact some beautiful frescoes decorating the chancel, dedicated to the life of the Madonna and painted by Giovanni Maria Zaffoni, known as Calderari between 1559 and 1563. Continuing on I passed through the town of Montereale Valcellina with its 18th-century neoclassical parish church, and then had a brief stop in front of the A. Pitter hydroelectric power plant. Built in 1903 and active until 1991. At the time of its inauguration, the power plant could boast several records: it was the first three-phase plant in Italy, it had the highest output voltage in Europe, at 30 kV, and it was connected to the longest power line in the world, a full 87 km all the way to Venice, which also allowed the streetlights of St. Mark’s Square to be lit. It was also the second-largest power plant in the world in terms of installed power, and the one equipped with the most powerful alternators ever built. In 2006 it was turned into a museum and can now be visited. Driving on I followed the foothills and eventually drove uphill to reach the Santuario della Madonna del Monte. This sanctuary, according to tradition, was built on the site where the Madonna appeared to farmer Antonio Zampara in 1510. The shrine was consecrated in 1615 and refurbished in the early 20th century. Nowadays its also a popular site as it grants a beautiful view of the plain below which I enjoyed as well. Heading back down by car I then stopped in the town of Aviano, here, on the main square is the imposing 18th century Villa Menegozzi-Brazzoduro, as well as the Duomo, built between the 18th and 19th centuries to replace a smaller Renaissance church. The town is also known for holding a large Air Base, an Italian military facility used by the USAF, the U.S. Air Force. Continuing on my drive I reached the nearby town of Castello d'Aviano. Here was a small but nice historic center with a square with a fountain in its center surrounded by old buildings. Like in nearby Aviano, a wonderful view of the Monte Cavallo massif towering above the plains. Here was also the castle, originally built in the 10th century on a hill, which gave the name to the town, but which closed due to restructuring. Rather than a castle, it is a fortified structure, consisting of two towers, remains of the keep, and part of the city wall within which are the church of Santa Maria e Giuliana and some dwellings. In town is also the Villa Policreti, a neoclassical villa now home to a golf club. Once back in the car, I drove on following the foothills until I reached a parking lot close to the main road. Here I stopped and first visited the sanctuary of the Santissima Trinità, supposedly a very ancient place of worship. Legend has it that in the 5th century, the Trinity supposedly appeared here to Emperor Theodosius, who urged Pope Sixtus III to build a shrine at the site of the apparition. The area was also most probably home to early Christian and perhaps pre-Roman cults related to the presence of the spring waters of the Livenza River. The current sanctuary building was refurbished in the 16th and later 18th century taking its current form due to a large influx of pilgrims. The church features a beautiful altar and fittings as well as a gilded main altarpiece and Renaissance frescoes. Nearby are the Santissima springs which as mentioned were the source of the cults in the area. Still today they are a marvel to admire, with their crystal clear water and deep light blue color. I followed a path along the stream and then returned to the car. It was then time for me to head to my final stop. I continued west following the mountain line and arrived in the town of Caneva. Here I followed a road uphill and reached the castle. I had to park along the road and walk the last part on foot. Dating to the 11th century, it stands on a rocky spur in a strategic and commanding position, offering magnificent views of the surrounding valleys and mountain ranges. Once on top, in fact, the sunset was approaching giving the view an ever more beautiful golden hue. Consisting of an outer wall ring, and an inner one, at its highest point stands the keep, and the church of Santa Lucia with its bell tower turned into a fortified tower and with the bas-relief of the lion of St. Mark's symbol of the dominance of Venice. After belonging to different entities throughout its history, from the Church of Aquileia to the da Camino family, and later Carraresi, it was taken by Venetian troops in the year 1420. From the 17th century the decline of the castle began, and today all that remains of the complex are the walls, tower, and church. After enjoying the view for a bit it was then time to go, heading back to the car and driving home. 

The castle of Zoppola

The castle of Solimbergo

View from the castle

The old town of Toppo

The castle of Toppo

The town of Navarons

The main square in Poffabro

View of the old town

A street in the old town

Another street in the old town

Yet another street

View of Frisanco

The castle of Maniago

View of Maniago's old town

The main square

The Duomo

Interior of the Duomo

The Ravedis Dam

The church of San Rocco in Montereale Valcellina

The Sanctuary of the Madonna del Monte di Marsure

Aviano

The old town of Castello di Aviano

The church of the Santissima Trinità near Polcenigo

The Santissima springs

View from the castle of Caneva

Ruins of the castle

Trip around eastern Veneto (28/07/2024)

Leaving Jesolo I headed north along the plain and decided on seeing a few sites around eastern Veneto. My first stop was the Military Memorial of Fagarè della Battaglia, located right next to a main road. A first monument was erected here a year after the end of WWI. During the fascist period, in 1933 a new memorial was built to honor the over ten thousand fallen soldiers who died during the battle for the Piave River, nearby, and who now rest there. Also resting here is an American Red Cross officer, Lieutenant Edward McKey, a personal friend of writer Ernest Hemingway and the only U.S. who died on the Italian front. Next to the ossuary are also two preserved wall fragments from a house once located close to the river on which unknown people wrote, during the Battle of the Solstice, two famous inscriptions: "It is better to live a day as a lion than a hundred years as a sheep ‘ and ’All heroes. Either the Piave or all slugged". Once inside I stopped to talk with two volunteers who in turn kept the ossuary open. They are alpini, the Italian Army's specialist mountain infantry, now retired, and were surprised and happy to see a young visitor. We spoke a bit and then I toured the building, admiring also the nice small museum of WWI in one of the rooms. After the visit, I got back in the car and drove on to reach the church of San Giovanni Battista in the town of Tempio. Built in the 12th century it was an important stop along the ancient Roman road, Via Postumia, and owned by the Templar order. It then passed to the Knights Hospitaller order, and despite being refurbished throughout the centuries it kept most of its Romanesque style and form. The interior holds some traces of frescoes but it's the exterior, with the portico, which has an interesting cycle of frescoes, painted in three successive phases from the 12th and 13th centuries to the 16th century. A short drive led me to the nearby town of San Polo di Piave where I visited the church of San Giorgio surrounded by a tiny cemetery. Originally dating to the 11th century the current building is from the 15th century and preserves some beautiful frescoes in the interior by Giovanni di France, including an evocative Last Supper on whose table appear, next to bread and wine, crayfish and river fish from the area. In the town center of San Polo di Piave, I visited the parish church dedicated to St Paul rebuilt in a neorenaissance style in 1922 after being damaged during WW1 and following the collapse of its bell tower in 1917. Facing the parish church is the picturesque Papadopoli-Giol castle, rebuilt in neo-Gothic style in the 19th century and with an English garden surrounding it. A brief stop in the nearby locality of Rai brought me to a small motte and bailey on top of which stands the ruins of a medieval tower. Originally part of a larger complex and probably of Roman origin it had a very long history and remained almost intact until 1918, but was destroyed by the retreating Austrians at the end of the Great War as well as suffering serious damage by a hurricane shortly after in 1925. After that I drove on, passing through the town of Tezze di Piave which is an impressive but abandoned Villa Giamomini, Biscaro, Zanon. Not far from there I then reached and visited the Borgo Malanotte, a small village frozen in time. It consists of a main villa, Villa Dirce, flanked by what were once the living quarters of the servants and peasants who cultivated the villa's estates under a latifundial first and later sharecropping arrangement. The place is now a picturesque array of old houses lining a main street and really feels like stepping back in time. After some driving, I stopped at a supermarket to grab some food for lunch and then moved on to the next destination. I reached the town of Nervesa della Battaglia, and after parking the car next to the church of San Giovanni Battista with the town's cemetery I started heading uphill. I was in the Montello, a large 13km long hill that reaches a height of 400m at its highest point, due to its size it's neither a hill nor a mountain but something in between. After following the path uphill I then reached the Abbey of Sant'Eustachio a Benedictine monastery founded during the 11th century but suppressed in the 16th century. It still functioned as a place of prayer and culture until WWI when it was heavily damaged and nowadays stands mostly in ruins. The complex was never rebuilt but its ruins went through a thorough conservative restoration work which consolidated it. Nowadays it stands as an impressive monument, surrounded by vineyards owned by the Giusti Family which own the abbey ruins and helped restore and allow people to visit it. Once there it was just me and a small family as well as two workers setting up a stage and a beer pavilion mot probably for an event. I visited the grounds and admired both the architecture and the nice panorama around. Nearby I then visited the Montello Memorial, one of the main charnel houses collecting the remains of Italian fallen soldiers during World War I. Completed in 1935 on a high point overlooking the plains it contains the spoils of nearly 10 thousand soldiers who died on the Piave front. A typical brutalist structure made up of a tall cubic form it had several floors with long hallways containing the tombs. However, it was a bit run-down with some sections fenced off. A small museum up the stair ramp presented some exhibits from WW1. After visiting it I headed back to the car and crossing over the Piave River reached the small town of Collalto, set among the hills. At its highest point, it features a castle consisting of outer walls and inside a small park with a church and the main castle keep. Unfortunately, the keep was closed due to restoration work, so I was only able to walk around the church and park between the keep and the outer walls. Built around the 12th century it grew until the Collalto family, which owned it, expanded their territories in the surroundings and moved their main residency elsewhere. It served as a defensive structure expanding its size. However, like most of the surroundings, suffered great devastation during WWI. After the visit, I got back in the car and drove on to reach the town of Pieve di Soligo. Also badly damaged during the Great War it still holds some surviving parts and buildings. The Duomo which was built in 1924 was actually built anew as the previous main church was demolished in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries because it was dilapidated. Rather than a main city, the town consisted of a series of old villages, which were unified together to form a larger urban area found nowadays. Evidence of these streets and buildings can be found here and there especially along the Soligo river flowing right through town. After a nice walk around town, I got back in the car and drove to the nearby hills to reach the Pieve di San Pietro di Feletto located on a hilltop in a panoramic spot. It was closed but a note on the door said to call a number to have it opened. After a bit an old man arrived and opened the church for me, two French tourists who also had arrived on the spot entered as well and the old man started speaking about the church while I translated for the other two tourists. Erected around the 11th century, but mostly probably already serving as a meeting place of the faithful since the 7th and 8th centuries it is one of the oldest in the area. Featuring a large portico that opens up to a beautiful panorama of the surrounding hills and mountains it also features some exterior frescoes. The most important and interesting is the so-called Christ of Sunday, a very rare iconography and better preserved here than elsewhere. It depicts the bleeding Christ, due to the wounds inflicted on him by numerous work tools, arranged around him and connected through streaks of blood; this iconography is intended to communicate the message of the third commandment, according to which working on the day dedicated to God entails for Christ a second martyrdom; placed in the portico, the image serves as a warning to every visitor. The interior was even more fascinating, divided into three naves, the central one presents frescoes on both of its upper parts performed and layered between the 13th and 15th centuries. They were discovered in the 20th century and only refurbished between the 90s and 2000s. They used to cover the whole walls but were damaged over time and only three-quarters survive. The left wall holds the oldest, of Byzantine inspiration and dating to the 13th century, as well as over the semicircular apse depicting Christ Pantocrator. On the right wall are the 15th-century ones, as a sort of poor man's bible depicting the articles of faith. Another incredible feature inside was the chapel of St Sebastian, gothic in style and frescoed in the second half of the 15th century it is fully painted and details the life of the saint. After the nice tour, I thanked the old man, took my leave of the other two tourists, and drove onwards. Along the way, I took a brief stop in the town of Codogné to admire the picturesque 18th-century Villa Toderini from the outside. Then for my last stop of the day, I reached the city of Motta di Livenza. Just outside the city center I first visited the Sanctuary and Basilica of the Madonna dei Miracoli. It was erected following Our Lady's apparition to a humble peasant in 1510 and presents a typical Renaissance Venetian lagoon style. It consists of a three-nave Basilica with a rounded gable facade and a portico all around the complex. The interior is simple yet features some important pieces of art including Sansovino's stunning altarpiece, a Nativity by Bernardino d'Asola, and the Assumption by Palma il Giovane on the altar of the Chapel of the Madonna, Behind the chapel a small passageway led to the crypt where the apparition occurred. Next up was the main cloister, one of four actually, with the typical arched passageway and a nice view of the bell tower. Heading on to visit Motta di Livenza's old town I then walked through the streets, visiting the Duomo, originally built in the 11th century but rebuilt in its current style during the 16th century. The interior was nice and featured two impressive Renaissance paintings, by Pomponio Amalteo and Francesco Bassano. Just outside the Duomo some old houses one of which had a nice frescoed facade. Walking around I also passed by the Toresin, once the city gate facing Treviso, now flanked by red stone lions sculpted recently but imitating older ones. After the visit it was time to go, I walked along the bank of the Livenza river, flowing through town and then got back in the car to drive home to Jesolo.

The Fagarè della Battaglia War Memorial

The church of San Giovanni Battista in Tempio

Frescoes of the church

The church of San Giorgio in San Polo di Piave

Interior of the church

The Papadopoli-Giol castle

Borgo Malanotte

Another view of the village

The entrance to the  Abbey of Sant'Eustachio in Nervesa della Battaglia

The ruined abbey

View from the abbey

The Montello Memorial

The town and castle of Collalto

View of Pieve di Soligo

Interior of the Pieve di San Pietro di Feletto

the frescoes of the church

Villa Toderini in Codogné

The Sanctuary and Basilica of the Madonna dei Miracoli in Motta di Livenza

Interior of the basilica

The cloister

Motta's main square and Duomo

Interior of the Duomo

A street in the old town

Bodetal hike (14/07/2024)

On a partly sunny weekend, Ania and I decided to go on a day trip to the Harz mountains. With a direct train from Berlin in the early morning we reached the town of Thale at the foot of the mountains where we would start our hike. We left the train station and headed to reach the cable car; here we bought a one-way ticket to the top and rode on a cabin enjoying the view as it took us from 187m to 431m above sea level. Once at the top we enjoyed the panorama towards the plains of the north and the town of Thale below, and then started our hike, We reached a spot known as the Hexentanzplatz, or Witches′ Dance Floor, a plateau where a restaurant was built and some kiosk set up as it is a popular tourist attraction. The place is believed to be an Old Saxon cult site, at which pagan celebrations were held in honor of the forest and mountain goddesses. Nowadays it seems more like a Disneyland park but at least the view over the Bode Valley below was impressive. We started following a trail heading south through the semi-forested landscape. We were on relatively flat terrain, high above 500m. After a short while, we took a detour and reached the Prinzensicht a viewing point above the Bode Valley. After enjoying the view we headed back the way we came and rejoined the main trail continuing onwards. Following the trail, we eventually reached a vantage point above the village of Treseburg. Here we stopped at a bench to have our lunch while enjoying the view. After eating we then headed down and reached the village, situated in a picturesque location, at a bend of the Bode river and surrounded by forest. We walked through the picturesque village admiring the nice wooden and timber-framed houses. From that point, we started to follow the trail which meandered its way parallel to the Bode River, flowing downwards but northwards. The trail didn't stand at the level of the river but instead meandered its way through forest, rocky terrain, and with lots of ups and downs. This part of the hike had many more people as it is one of the most popular in the area. Nevertheless, it was never crowded, and on many occasions, it was just the two of us. We admired the nice landscape as we continued pushing on. We saw some nice rock formations as well as many waterfalls along the way. The highlight was also the beautiful viewpoint at one of the tightest bends of the river, right below the Hexentazplatz. Nearby we then crossed over the river on the Teufelsbrücke, the devil's bridge, and continued on the trail till we reached another bridge, the Jungfernbrücke from which we had a picturesque view of the valley and river and to the side of which was a small restaurant. Continuing on the last part of the valley we passed by a youth hostel and then eventually got back to the place we started from where the cable car station was located. As we still had some time we decided to have a snack and picked a cafè in Thale where we had a piece of cake. It was then time to go, we headed to the station and eventually got our direct train back to Berlin. 

The church of St. Petri in Thale

The cable car up to the Hexentanzplatz

A view from the top

Brocken in the distance

A view of the village of Treseburg

View of the village

The Bode river flowing through

Another part of the river

View of the Bodetal

Another section of the canyon

A bridge over the river