Cammino di San Francesco from Rimini to La Verna (25-31/05/2019)

After having requested time off from work both Ania and I decided to do a week trip somewhere together. I had thought of a possible multi-day hike we could do and stumbled upon this overlooked trail part of the larger St Francis Way, which instead of following the more popular and traditional route from Florence to Assisi, started from the other side of the Apennines, in Rimini to be exact, and ended at the Sanctuary of La Verna. Right after Ania's landing in Venice Treviso Airport, my mom drove us as fast as she could all the way to the train station in Mestre where we were able to take the only direct train taking us in Rimini in less than three hours without having to switch in Bologna. After arriving, we first headed to our accommodation for the night, Hotel Jana, to check-in. After a quick check-in we headed out; the beach was just a few blocks away so we decided to head there first. Despite it being a cloudy day (rain and clouds would follow us for most of our trip, unfortunately) the view was nice as the beach umbrellas were all closed and nearly nowhere around. After we decided to head and visit the old town, and on the way stopped at a place called Piada e Cassoni Ciada e Monda. Here we learned the difference between a Cassone and a Piadina: they are the same in ingredients, but the former is cooked and closed with the filling inside (like a large raviolo) while the latter has the filling added after the dough is cooked and is not sealed but left open (like a sandwich). We both took a tasty and cheap Cassone and enjoyed it on the go. After a little bit of walking, we reached the southern end of the old town, marked by the impressive Arch of Augustus. Rimini was in fact founded by the Romans back in 268BC, called then Ariminum, and was a major city and a key communications link between the northern and southern parts of the peninsula throughout the Roman era. This is why there are still several testimonies to its ancient past, such as the case of the gate mentioned before. Erected in 27BC and dedicated to Emperor Augustus, the arch marked the end of the Via Flaminia which connected the capital Rome, to the city and the surrounding Romagna region. The battlements of the upper part date to the 10th century, when the gate was incorporated into the medieval walls built around the city center. After walking under it we entered the town proper and walked along its pretty streets. We then reached the Tempio Malatestiano, the city's cathedral, but found it closed due to the late time of the day. We then turned into a side street and arrived at a large square, the Piazza Tre Martiri, so-called as it was dedicated to three partisan fighters brutally hanged in the square during WWII. The square featured mostly reconstructed post-war buildings with a few notable exceptions. First, the clock tower, built in 1547, which was then reconstructed in 1759. It was badly damaged during an earthquake in 1875 and finally received its current aspect in 1933. It still features the original clock dating to 1562. Then the small Tempietto di Sant'Antonio, a chapel built in 1518 and rebuilt in the Baroque style after an earthquake that occurred in 1672. From there, we walked onwards and reached another square, Piazza Cavour. This is considered as the city's main square since the 13th century, as it features buildings dating from different centuries. Particularly noteworthy are the three buildings on the northern side of the square, the town hall hosted inside Palazzo Garampi dating to the 16th century, the Palazzo dell'Arengo dating to the 13th century and once hosting the citizen's council during the Middle Ages, and the Palazzo del Podesta' built in 1334 for the town's administrator. On the other side, to the south stands the nice baroque portal of what used to be the old fish market. To the west stands the 19th century Teatro Amintore Galli, unfortunately heavily damaged during WWII. At the center of the square stands the really nice Fontana Della Pigna. Originally built during the Roman times, it suffered a complete makeover in 1543 as three years before it had been damaged by fireworks used to celebrate the future Pope Julius III. It served as the only point for the water supply of the city until 1912 when the public aqueduct was built. Behind the theatre, we then reached the castle, Castel Sismondo. Built during the 16th century for the Malatesta family, who ruled over the city, it now presents just the central structure, once surrounded by another set of walls and a moat. Walking onwards we then reached the Ponte di Tiberio, a Roman bridge built in 20AD. It once served as the crossing over the Marecchia river, then diverted, during the 1930s, a little further north in order to spare the city from flooding; it now crosses over a canal still ending in the sea. After crossing the bridge we reached a really pretty area, called Borgo San Giuliano, and featuring nicely colored houses, once belonging to fishermen and port workers but now refurbished and the place where many young people meet for aperitivo. After walking around for a while, we then headed back through the city center as the sun started to set. We passed under the Arch of Augustus once again and then reached our accommodation where we fell asleep quickly after. The following day, after waking up relatively early and an average breakfast we then headed out, backpack ready and legs stretched, to start our hike. We first gave one last look at the beach before crossing into town and stopping at the Tempio Malatestiano, unlike the previous day, now open. Originally a 13th-century Gothic building and dedicated to St Francis, it was rebuilt at the expense of Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta, at the time ruling over the city, who commissioned it to the famous architect Leon Battista Alberti in 1450. Even though unfinished, the facade was never completed as can be clearly seen, it was built following the Renaissance principles of geometry and structure also following ancient roman ideals and characteristics. The interior featured a mix of Gothic and Renaissance styles, with some impressive side altars including Sigismondo Malatesta's sepulcher. During WWII, the church had been heavily bombed and it was impressive to see how much restoration had been done to salvage what possible. After the visit to the Cathedral, we then headed southwestwards and started to leave the city's suburbs behind us, heading slightly uphill. We reached the Santuario Santa Maria Delle Grazie, located on the hills overlooking Rimini, and built during the 15th century. Here the priest stamped our pilgrim passport and was happy to know we were taking up the pilgrimage to La Verna. Walking further along the hills, under a cloudy sky, we decided to stop at a ruined building surrounded by beautiful poppy fields and have our lunch there. On the way down we met a super cute dog who greeted us through the fence and was super happy to receive some scratches and rubs. As we continued on it started to rain so we grabbed our ponchos and put them on so as not to get too wet. The wind and size of the poncho did not really help but nonetheless, it was better than not having it at all. As we followed a bike path that ran along the Marecchia river we could see the waters swelling from the huge amount of water which had been falling today and in the previous days (a thing which we would also notice during the upcoming days). After a few hours of walking in relative peace, we eventually reached the town of Villa Verucchio, a modern group of houses set close to the river. We crossed the town and then had to walk a little further uphill in order to reach the Convento Santa Croce, a monastery set right above Villa Verucchio which was going to be our accommodation for the night. The priest came to meet us as we arrived and showed us where we would be sleeping, he then told us to leave the offering and keys in the post box the following morning before leaving. Then he waved goodbye and left us alone in that huge building. After showering, and preparing our stuff for the night, we explored the many rooms filled with bunk beds (mostly used by scout groups, which due to the weather were now completely empty except us two). Then we also gave a look at the small church, dating to the 14th century. The monastery is supposed to be the oldest Franciscan building in the whole of Romagna and the first, but obviously not the last, Franciscan site of our hike. At the center of the monastery's cloister stood high and strong (but supported by extra wooden poles and metal pulleys) a beautiful cypress, which the legend says, was the branch that St Francis had used during his walk and planted here to give us the tree we see now. We started to become quite hungry so we decided to head back into town and look for a place for dinner. We stumbled upon a large gathering of people at a place called Bar Zanni Caffetteria. We decided to pop in as we spotted some nice looking dishes on the countertop. Probably one of the best decisions ever, we figured out we had stumbled upon an amazing apertitivo, which for just 12 euros per person granted us a drink of our choice plus a free food buffet. After taking a spritz and a Hugo, we dug in the many dishes coming out of the kitchen including, pizza, pasta, cold cuts, second courses, desserts, and even Nutella crepes and delicious mini ice-creams, literally the best aperitivo I ever had. After filling up and feeling very satisfied we decided to head back up the hill, a hard feat after so much food, and reaching the monastery where we got ready to sleep. The following day, after seeing a little longer, we started our hike by heading towards Verucchio, a historic town set above a hill overlooking the more modern Villa Verucchio. Once we reached the town, we first headed to see the main parish church, the Collegiata San Martino, built during the 19th century. Then, we walked through the pretty old town streets and reached the highest point where the Rocca Malatestiana is located. Ania decided to wait outside, while I headed in after paying an entrance ticket. The castle was built during the 12th century and further expanded under the rule of Sigismondo Malatesta. The structure featured a small courtyard and a keep that hosted a small museum of archaeological objects. The view from there was spectacular, with the town and its medieval structure on one side and the open hilly countryside with the Marecchia river flowing through on the other. Once my tour of the castle was over I rejoined Ania and together we headed to a small place called Piadastyle on the town's main square. There we got a tasty Cassone each and enjoyed it while sitting down. After lunch, we got back on our feet and resumed our walk this time diverting from the pilgrimage route in order to have an extra day and visit the country of San Marino, only a few kilometers away.  We headed south and walking along verdant hilly fields, eventually reaching the border with the small state. Known as the oldest constitutional republic, it does not differ much from Italy as it has the same language of the surrounding Romagna region and the same food as well. I had been there many years before on a school trip but had promised Ania we would deviate in order for her to see it as well. After reaching the foot of Monte Titano, the large solitary mountain on which the city of San Marino stands, we decided to take the cable car which would bring us to the peak. The weather was such a mess that a huge mist had completely enveloped the area making it seemly impossible to see anything, nonetheless, we still enjoyed the ride and appreciated the fact that we had skipped a large hike uphill in order to reach the city. After reaching the peak, we then started to wander around the old town's streets. The first monument we encountered was the Basilica di San Marino, originally built in the 4th century it needed to be fully rebuilt during the 19th century, precisely in 1807, due to the terrible conditions in which it stood. This clearly showed in its typical Neoclassical structure, with tall slender columns characterizing its exterior and interior. Inside a plaque remembers the visit of Pope John Paul II in 1982 and that of Pope Benedict XVI in 2011 both of whom decided to homage the remains of Saint Marinus. From the cathedral, we then continued on and reached the small Piazza Della Libertà, the town's main square. Also surrounded by a thick fog, it featured the elegant Palazzo Pubblico at its northern end. It is where the official ceremonies of this tiny Republic take place and the main seat of several of the country's governing bodies. An older palace used to stand here, dating to the 14th century, however, it was torn down and rebuilt at the end of the 19th century. From there we continued on and walked further along the winding streets all built on top of each other on the steep rock on which the city stands. We passed by the medieval walls and decided to stop and have dinner at a place called Giulietti KmO, as everything seemed all the same and quite touristy. Ania's dish was not so good while my hamburger was slightly better but definitely nothing compared to all the amazing food we had and would have during the rest of the trip. The fog started to get thicker and thicker and we could barely see a few meters ahead of us. We decided to head to the warmth and comfort of our accommodation, Hotel Joli, which turned out to be a positive surprise. The following morning, after an early rise and a filling breakfast we were relieved to see the shining rays of the sun had decided to show themselves. We headed out and decided to walk through the town once more this time being able to appreciate the architecture with much greater visibility and warmth. After a bit of walking, we finally reached one of the three peaks overlooking the town of San Marino; the Guaita. On top of it stands the Guaita fortress, the oldest of the three constructed on each of the peaks, the best preserved and probably the most famous. From up there, we could enjoy a beautiful view both down the western slope and to the eastern one in the direction of the Adriatic Sea. A path, which we followed, followed the crest of the mountain and reached, among pretty trees and splendid views, the second fortress, Cesta. The path to reach the third and last tower was not easily accessible so, after admiring the view from that spot we decided to head back and walk through the town. Then we started on our hike in the direction of the next town along the Via di San Francesco. We crossed once more the border and entered into Italy, continuing among nice verdant hills. The weather was much nicer than the day before, with rays of sunshine often peeking out among the meager clouds. As we joined once more the official path we followed once more the way close to the Marecchia River. We reached the small town of Pietracuta, where we were able to buy some food from a supermarket right before closing time. We then set ourselves on a bench and enjoyed our food while giving a well-deserved break to our legs.
After lunch,  following a sharp turn left we followed the path this time leading uphill in a final stretch towards our destination for the day. The clouds had decided to come back but it was not threatening to rain yet. Finally, our destination, the town of San Leo was in sight, far in the distance. We followed the path leading through lush fields, starting to feel the weight of the day on our already tired legs. After a bit of walking, we then reached the convent of Sant'Igne just outside of San Leo. I took a quick deviation to take a look while Ania kept on the path. The convent was closed (used mostly for celebrations) but its architecture was noteworthy even from the outside. Built during the 13th century,  it features a nice Romanesque structure with some Gothic additions and a nice cloister which was closed off by a fence. After having a quick look around I turned back and rejoined with Ania as we approached the town of San Leo. We could clearly admire its structure from this side as a solitary rock jutting out among the forest-covered hills. At its top, the fortress overlooking the area and right below it to the right the small town that had developed. Particularly interesting was also the fact that this side of the rock showed a large rockslide that might have been caused recently. I then checked up later on online and found out that in fact in 2014 a whole portion had abruptly sliced down causing much unrest but luckily no harm to people or buildings. As we continued on we finally reached the Porta di Sopra, the medieval city gate marking one of the entrances to the old town. We walked up the street and approached one of the houses where, after waiting for our host, a kind lady, opened her B&B and let us in to check into our room. Our room looked really nice and comfortable, with its own bathroom and a window view over the old town and the fortress on top. After showering and changing into fresh clothes we then headed out again and decided to explore the streets. Right next to our accommodation, the pretty Piazza Dante Alighieri opened out with at its center a nice renaissance fountain and the back of the apse of the Piece di Santa Maria Assunta. The sun had decided to briefly show itself once more granting a bit of warmth and a nice view of the typical stone buildings characterizing the town. We continued on and passed by the Cathedral of San Leone, unfortunately already closed, and the Civic Tower, detached from the cathedral as it was once part of a complex made up of a small fortress guarding this part of the town. A little further we then reached a nice little park which served as a beautiful panoramic point. From there we had an incredible view over the hills to the north and the river Marecchia flowing strong down below. Behind us the old town with the fortress overlooking it and shining in the sunlight. We decided to head there after enjoying the view for a while. As we headed up the hill we passed by the so-called Pozzo di Cagliostro. Count Alessandro di Cagliostro, alias of Giuseppe Balsamo, was an adventurer and self-styled magician from the late 18th century. Due to the period and the nature of his dealing he often got into trouble, such as in France, where he was imprisoned in the Bastille for nine months. Then his travels took him through England and then back in Italy where he was again imprisoned in Rome in the Castle Sant'Angelo for heresy by the Church, tried and sentenced to death. The sentence was modified into life imprisonment in the fortress of San Leo. Here he was put in the worst cell possible, known as the pozzetto or little well, as the only way in was by lowering a rope down from the tiny trapdoor on top. He died after nearly 4 years of imprisonment and was buried without a ritual due to his anticlerical feelings. The corpse on the way to the burial place was laid down on the well just below the fortress which is now known as Pozzo di Cagliostro, and a plaque mentions that occasion. From there, we then decided to head up a steep set of stairs which eventually brought us to the Fortress, high above the rock. It was unfortunately already closed due to the late time but we nonetheless enjoyed seeing it from the outside and admired its impressive fortifications. We also had a nice view of the town below and the surrounding hilly landscape. As we descended back into town, we decided to look for a place for dinner; being the town so tiny we didn't really have to think too much where to eat as one restaurant was closed so we just opted for another, the Taverna Delle Guardie. Here we had a really great dinner, with a very tasty cheese platter with different jams as an appetizer and then a first course each accompanied by local red wine. After a good night's sleep the following day we woke up with pouring rain. We decided to wait a little before heading out and hope it would stop or at least become less strong. In the meantime, we headed to visit the Pieve di Santa Maria Assunta as it was now open. Built during the 9th century it is the oldest religious building in the Montefeltro, the historical hilly region of which San Leo is part. It featured a simple interior with nice columns, some of which re-used from the ancient Roman period. Then, next door, we also visited the Cathedral of San Leone. This one, built during the 12th century over a pre-existing church, features a beautiful romanesque structure. The interior featured Langobard capitals some of which were not just at the top of the column but also at its base. The crypt also features some interesting decorations on the capitals, representing mythological animals and human figures. Once outside the church, the weather had not seemed to improve so we decided to set ourselves on the path nonetheless. It was misty, rainy, and damp; we passed then through a small hamlet called Poggio and then reached an area surrounded by badlands. The landscape was impressive but, as you can imagine, due to the rain, the path was all muddy, wet, and slippery. We proceeded as slow as we could but nonetheless, each time risked a fatal slip. Eventually, we were able to pass that part, having thought often if not to turn back instead. The luckily the path turned into gravel, right after a small church of St Roque, and descended down along a forest. To our surprise though, as we reached the end of the valley, we found out that the bridge that was supposed to cross a little river had completely collapsed and disappeared. We were dismayed, we certainly didn't want to hike back up all the way and attempt the crossing of the muddy badlands once more, but on the other hand crossing the river, which had now become an impetuous flow of water, looked hard if not impossible. I scouted the area walking along the bank and seeing if there seemed to be a bend that could be more easily crossed, but the flow of water was constant, the banks far from each other and the bushes and trees made it also painful to get through. I then had an idea and attempted to start moving large rocks and piling them up on the side of the bank to attempt to create a platform. The rush of the water was so strong that most, even the larger ones, were being carried off. Eventually, though I was able to have a little part jutting out from where I could stand. The other side seemed still very distant, so I decided to leave the bag to Ania first and attempt to jump to the other side. I managed to land just past the water and quickly attempted to make a platform on the other side as well to make it easier for Ania to cross. She then threw me both bags and attempted the jump herself. She made and after panting and cheering at the same time we left ourselves down on the ground to recuperate. After a bit of walking, we then reached the town of Novafeltria, right across the Marecchia River. This time the bridge, carrying also cars and made in cement, had not had the same fate as the one we encountered previously. Once we reached the main square, we considered our options, as we were still halfway through the hike for the day and the rain seemed not to stop at all. We thought that now since the hike would head uphill, that mean slippery slopes full of mud, possible slides, and worse. We decided then to wait there and catch the next bus which would take us to our destination: Sant'Agata Feltria. We didn't need to wait long and eventually managed to board the bus which in little time brought us there. Once off the bus, we decided to head to our accommodation first and try to wash, change, and dry our wet clothing. We thus headed to Capuchin Convent, which I had called in order to ask for two beds. Once there, the priest led us in, showed us the large kitchen, and then to the rooms upstairs. There were several small rooms with 2 to 4 bunk beds each. We chose the rooms randomly and found out we were going to be the only two there that night. We then showered, changed, and unpacked our stuff, using our tiny hairdryer to dry out what we could of our shoes and socks. The room was quite cold and damp and the heating had been turned off as it was May and such weather was very rare then. We then decided to head out and explore the town a little, by heading first to Piazza Garibaldi, the town's main square. Though small, it was quite nice particularly thanks to its Baroque palace, Palazzo Fregoso, now the town hall. From there we then went past an alleyway and then up a staircase which led us right at the foot of the Rocca Fregoso, the town's castle. We decided to pay the ticket price and see the interior; the museum inside is dedicated to fairy tales. Each room presents and describes popular fairy tales from around the world through the use of media, lights, and interactive material. Among the exhibit, we could also see the remaining traces of the original 12th-century castle and its 15th-century additions, such as decorated fireplaces. The view from the top was also nice and despite the weather, we could admire the surrounding lush hilly landscape. Once out of the castle we then decided to look for a place to have dinner. We opted for a place called Trattoria Bossani, just outside the medieval nucleus, and the lady owner told us she would have to see as we were the only clients there. In the end, she decided to open her kitchen and served us some homemade tagliatelle; with meat sauce for me and with mushrooms for Ania. After a filling meal, we then decided to head back to our accommodation and finally give our legs some rest.
The following day, after waking up at a decent time, we grimly noticed the weather had not changed, and the constant mist, clouds, and rain were still ever-present. We first had a quick breakfast at a local bakery and then set ourselves on the path. We followed a cement road for quite a while, without luckily seeing any cars, but that meant a respite from the mud drenched gravel paths. Then through a forest, we followed a gravel path which luckily was untouched by the rain and made the walk pleasant and fast. After a nice trail meandering through the forest, we eventually reached a cemented road once again and approached a large rock formation part of the larger Monte Fumaiolo. The name, recalling that of the smoke and thus clouds, was quite apt as we noticed the mist had decided to descend once more. As we walked through the tiny center of Balze di Verghereto, our destination for the day, we noticed some street signs indicating the spring where the Tevere river, the one flowing through Rome, is born. It seemed so strange that in this mountainous area, away from all kinds of chaos and large cities, one of the largest and most important rivers in Italy starts its course. After reaching our accommodation, the Appartamento Montefumaiolo, the owner, a super nice and kind man, showed us in and even offered to dry our shoes and wet socks next to his fireplace. So after a nice hot and relaxing shower and changing into fresh clothes we set ourselves to look for a place to have dinner. We opted for the Ristorante Pizzeria Sorgente del Tevere, where we had an incredible and cheap meal. We took a pizza each, which were huge, and an antipasto for me which ended up being for 2 people so Ania helped with it as well. To that, we added some water and a nice house wine. We ended up paying less than 10 euros each. As we then headed back to our accommodation a beautiful sunset, with a partly clear sky had decided to show itself, illuminating the rocky formation of the nearby Monte Fumaiolo and giving a nice orange hue to the sky. The morning after, our last day in this pilgrimage, we woke up early to a clear blue sunny sky. Being at 1091m above sea level it was still very chilly but at least the end of May sun helped heat up a bit. We first had breakfast in town and then set ourselves on the path to our final destination. As we walked alongside verdant fields, our view could finally gaze far in the distance and spotted some beautiful hilly formations, clear in the crisp and windy weather. We descended down until we crossed right above the freeway, and then continued on this time walking uphill. All around us were just forested covered hills; at one point we even encountered a herd of sheep, but as soon as we heard the guard dogs barking decided to leave quickly. As the hill became steeper and steeper we decided to stop for lunch in a nice sunny spot and sat on a log while eating the sandwiches we had prepared in the morning. Getting then back on our feet we reached the top of the hill from where we had an incredible 360 degrees panorama. We then noticed that the path continued downhill once more so we reluctantly followed it as that meant it would eventually go uphill once more. We had unknowingly crossed the border between Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany and only by looking at the map did I notice that. We had then reached the highest point in that area, the Poggio Tre Vescovi, located at 1238m above sea level. We continued on and further into a nice oak forest and then out again in the open field. Eventually, after a series of ups and downs, we finally reached our destination: the Sanctuary of La Verna. It was here in fact, that we started to encounter the first pilgrims for the whole duration of our pilgrimage. These pilgrims, however, were heading in the opposite direction as the more popular route was the one starting at La Verna or Florence and ending in Assisi. As we approached the religious site, we were awed by its impressive architecture and sense of peace and serenity it permeated. The Sanctuary was in fact built in complete isolation on top of a rock formation called Monte Penna at 1128m during the 13th century. It was here in fact that St Francis of Assisi is said to have received the stigmata in 1224. A church was then built in that location and a monastery was then formed around that church incorporating structures that can still be seen today. As we reached the entrance to the monastery we went to check-in and were shown to our pilgrim accommodation: a large room with several single beds all aligned next to each other. Then after taking our respective beds and unrolling our sleeping bags, we decided to explore the monastery. We first headed out to a large opening called Quadrante, where a large wooden cross was set. This space opened up in front of the church and granted an incredible view over the valley below and the surrounding hills. From there we followed the so-called Portico Delle Stimmate, a 16th-century passageway with paintings from the 20th century replacing the original ones. The passageway then led to a stair that took us down to the small Cappella Della Stimmate, a chapel built on the site where in 1263 St Francis received the stigmata. The interior holds two glazed terracotta sculptures, one medallion representing the Madonna with child and the other a Crucifixion both by the famous Andrea Della Robbia and dating to the late 15th century. Then a small passageway led outside on an outcrop that jutted out from the rock and granted us another beautiful view of the surrounding landscape. A plaque, on glazed terracotta, says that once when the devil tried to throw St Francis down this outcrop, the rock behind the saint received his body and saved him from the fall. This is why the form of the rock takes that of a human body, specifically that of St Francis. We followed the passageway to the end and got back out in front of the church. Known as the Basilica Maggiore, this building was begun in 1348 and was only completed in 1509. A mix of styles, it features a renaissance portico and inside several glazed terracotta altars and sculptures by the famous Andrea Della Robbia. In one of the chapels, behind a glass window, is the robe that St Francis used to dress. After the visit to the Basilica, we then headed back through the monastery, passing by several small cloisters of different periods, the gothic one of which was particularly nice looking. Next to it, in a side room, there was even a historical reconstruction of apothecary's shop with the typical furniture and objects. We were now quite famished, and so after heading to the dining hall, seated down at some tables assigned to us together with other pilgrims who were spending their night there. Some nuns then joined as well and dishes starting to be carried over. We had a warm and hearty vegetable soup (I asked for a refill two times) and then several cooked vegetables and fish (for those who wished for it) as second course. We then finished off with some fruit and dessert. The atmosphere was quite homely, with the servers moving around and carrying dishes, the nuns quite silent yet friendly, and the other pilgrims from all over the world discussing and talking about their respective hikes. After a nice filling dinner, we were ready to hit the bunk the end of our long and exciting hike that took us from the town of Rimini on the Adriatic Sea all the way to the solitary and important monastery of La Verna.

The Arch of Augustus in Rimini

The Tempio Malatestiano's unfinished facade

The Castel Sismondo

The ancient Roman Ponte di Tiberio

The pretty Borgo San Giuliano

The green wheat fields around Rimini

The Santa Croce Convent and St Francis' Cypress

View of the old town of Verucchio

The fog in San Marino

Early morning view of San Marino's Palazzo Public

The Guaita fortress and walls

View of the Guaita fortress from the Cesta fortress

The rocky outcrop on which the town of San Leo sits

San Leo's Main Street and Fortress

The Cathedral of San Leone in San Leo

San Leo's fortress

The Badlands close to San Leo

View from Sant'Agata Feltria's castle

The castle of Sant'Agata Feltria

Weed covered houses

The foggy atmosphere before reaching the town of Balze

Sunny view of the landscape around Balze

The rocky outcrop above Balze

A horse grazing among the verdant fields of the Apennine Mountains

The rocky formation of the Sanctuary of La Verna

View of the surrounding landscape

La Verna's sanctuary

Normandy Trip (18-19/05/2019)

For a work trip, I had to head to the northern French city of Caen where I spent a few days before then doing a weekend trip around Normandy with some of my coworkers. After leaving Venice Airport early on the 15th, we reached Paris and from there took a train taking us to Caen. The event ran over three days, and we managed to have very little free time. However, in the spare moments I had, I decided to quickly visit the city center. As our work was taking place in the beautiful settings of the Abbey of Sainte-Trinité, also known as Abbaye aux Dames, home to the regional council of Normandy, I decided to visit the church first. It was founded in the 11th century by William the Conqueror and his wife Matilda of Flanders as a benedictine monastery for nuns, thus the name "aux dames" the "hommes" one for men being on the opposite side of town. Construction started in 1062 from the apse, as all churches were constructed this way, and was completed around 1130. It features a gothic structure with a tall facade flanked by towers, whose original spires were destroyed in the Hundred Years' War. Of note was the crypt below the main altar with columns topped with impressive capitals depicting all kinds of figures. Next to the altar, on the choir's floor, is the black marble slab where queen Matilda was buried. After heading out and towards the city, I then passed by the Collegiate church of the Holy Sepulchre, built during the 13th century but with later additions. It was unfortunately closed so that meant continuing on and reaching than the impressive structure of the castle. The Chateau was originally built around 1060 by William the Conqueror and his son Henry I continued the work by adding a keep, a hall for the ducal court, and the church of St John, now the info point and ticket office for the local museums. The keep was torn down during the french revolution, and the whole complex was heavily bombed during world war 2, nevertheless, it is still well preserved and its massive walls are a sight to marvel at. I entered through the eastern gate, the Porte des Champs and walked across the large open space reaching the edge of the western walls from where I had an excellent view over the city. Then I headed up the southern walls and gazed to another part of the center. Two museums had been set in some buildings specifically made, the Musee de Normandie and the Musee des Beaux-Arts. There was no time to visit them so instead, I decided to exit the chateau and walked through the old town. The small neighborhood just east of the castle is the oldest part of the city and the best preserved. It holds some beautiful houses, some of which with the typical timber-framed structure. As I walked through I admired the lovely streets and nice cafès which, with hotter weather, would be a welcome stopping point.

After the three intensive days in Caen, we decided to rent two cars and left in the morning of the 18th to reach the infamous Omaha Beach, a stretch of sand between the towns of Sainte-Honorine-des-Pertes and Vierville-Sur-Mer. This place was the location of one of five sectors of the Allied invasion of German-occupied France that occurred on June 6, 1944, and the code name Omaha was given to it. After reaching the waterfront, we parked the car and continued on foot. Right off the main road, on an opening, stands a monument to the allied invasion in this area and particularly to the 1st US infantry division which suffered the most casualties. Right in front of it, on the shore, is a memorial called Les Braves consisting of stainless steel columns depicting three elements: Wings of Hope, Rise Freedom and the Wings of Fraternity. After walking along the shore, we got back in the car and drove a little further to reach the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial. We parked and entered the grounds on foot. The park is really large and features a long avenue sided by trees with all the tombstones lined around it. 9388 people are buried there each one signaled by a white cross or Jewish star, due to the army's diverse composition. A memorial close to the entrance includes maps and details of the Normandy landings and military operations which followed. In the same area, a semi-circular garden was built with engravings to commemorate 1557 service members who were declared missing in action (either lost at sea or dead with the sinking of the SS Leopoldville). After a moment of recollection in that sacred ground, we decided to head further and downhill to the nearby beach. As we descended, we passed by some grazing cows and the remains of the defensive system set up for D-day. There were dug up trenches, bunkers, battlements, and cannon positions. After reaching the seashore we explored around and then decided to head back uphill to the car and continue our trip. After a bit of driving through peaceful countryside and a few farms selling typical local cider, we reached our next stop: Pointe du Hoc. After reaching the parking lot, we left out the car and continued on foot. Following a path, we reached the first artillery bunkers overlooking the English Channel. The Pointe du Hoc is, in fact, a promontory hill jutting out to the sea and at the time of world war II was the highest point between Utah Beach to the west and Omaha Beach to the east, making it thus a valuable strategic location. The relatively small area was dotted with remains of casemates and artillery pits and was also covered in what seemed to be bomb holes from the war. As before in Omaha beach, it was mesmerizing yet eerie to stand in a place so iconic during the Normandy landings where many had lost their lives on both sides. After exploring the bunkers and walking around we headed back to the car and continued on our trip, reaching then our next stop about 2h of driving later. Mont St Michel, the famous tidal island topped by its impressive castle/abbey, was easily visible in the distance across the flat tidal lands. I had long dreamed and hope to be able to see the site, so being there at that moment was a great joy for me. In order to reach the island, a new causeway had been built but could only be reached by bus or on foot. We then parked the car in the dedicated car spaces to the south and decided to make the commute on the bus and reach the island. After getting off we were in close sight of the impressive rock with the splendid gothic structures jutting out on top of it. We entered the small historic part by passing through the southern gate and walking along the very crowded main street, Grande Rue. We decided to head up first and reach the Abbey in order to see it before the closing time. We took minor side streets leading upwards and quickly reached the entrance to the complex. After buying the tickets, we headed inside the Abbey and explored its many rooms spread throughout several levels. Originally known as Monte Tombe, it was believed that the rock had been inhabited since Roman times and well through the Frank invasions. A legend tells that the Archangel Michael appeared in 708 to the bishop of Avranches, Aubert, instructing him to build a church on top of the island rock. Thus the change in the name into Mont St Michel au peril de la Mer (Mount Saint Michael at the peril of the sea). From then on the Abbey witnessed borderline changes and different patrons. Benedictine monks took up residence and established their order over the abbey, turning it into a thriving complex. The notorious Italian architect Guglielmo da Volpiano was chosen by Richard II of Normandy to build the church of the Abbey on the highest spot of the rock in 1060. The Abbey reached its apex during the 12th century, particularly during the time of the abbot of Torigni when the structure was further developed. Its importance waned throughout its subsequent existence as it also became a state jail under the reign of Louis XI; the abbey was then finally closed in 1791, during the French Revolution, and fully turned into a prison (its position and structure made it very suitable for such an end). The prison was then closed in 1863, under the pressure of influential figures such as Victor Hugo, and the abbey restored. After becoming a national historical monument in 1874 it was then inscribed in the Unesco world heritage site list in 1979. So our visit began by reaching the highest spot of the rock, from where we had an amazing view of the structures and town below and the surrounding tidal landscape. Up there we then entered the Abbey church proper, featuring an 18th-century facade that had been rebuilt after a fire destroyed the original one. Once inside, I marveled at the elegant simplicity of its original Romanesque structure.The choir had been reconstructed in flamboyant gothic style at the end of the 15th century after the original romanesque had collapsed. Next to the church proper is a three-story building known as the Merveille, built in gothic style during the 13th century. It was the monk living area and features several structures. Through a door in the northern nave of the church, I reached the cloister first, a beautiful courtyard featuring a mix of romanesque and gothic styles. A door then led to the refectory where the monks used to have their meals. From there, descending down a staircase, I reached the Salle des Chevaliers (Knights' room), one of the nicest in the whole complex featuring beautiful gothic arcades. Then several smaller rooms included chapels, rooms and other service quarters. One part even featured a large treadwheel crane which was used during the abbey's time as a prison to haul in needed supplies. After seeing the whole complex I then went out and got back together with the rest of the group. From there we descended a series of steps on the northern side and reached the structures of the town. It was incredible to notice how just a couple of hours before the surrounding tidal land was completely dry and we could not even spot the sea in the distance while now the tide had quickly swept in reaching the rock and surrounding it. We walked on top of the eastern walls that had for centuries defended the town that had grown at the foot of the abbey, from there we were granted a view over the rooftops on one side and the now completely water-covered tidal landscape on the other. The streets were now nearly empty as most of the daytrippers had left before the waters came. We walked around a bit finally having the place mostly to ourselves and then decided to head back to the cars ourselves. We found out though that the gate we had come in through was now flooded and tried to figure out a way to exit without getting wet. I proceeded to take my shoes off in fear of having to wait there for several hours before the tide decided to change its course. Luckily though, in recent years, a secondary entrance had been made where the man-made causeway was built as they had specifically arranged it in case of the common high tides which hit the area. This way we were able to exit the complex with dry feet. After reaching our cars glad to have visited such an incredible monument we then drove a few minutes south until we reached the town of Pontorson where we had booked a place to sleep at the hotel Le XIV. After checking in we left our luggage and then headed out into town to find a place to eat dinner. We found a place called Le Grillon where we tried the local specialty: Galettes, a Norman and Breton type of crepe made with buckwheat. After a tasty dinner, it was time for us to head back to our accommodation and sleep. The next day, our last day on the trip, we woke up early in order to drive all the way back to Caen and hand back our rental cars. Then getting on a train we switched in Rouen and reached the town of Vernon in the early afternoon. We had decided to come here as most of the group components wanted to see Monet's garden and home in the nearby town of Giverny. However, as Adrian, the Czech guy, and I didn't wish to head there, we decided to stay in Vernon instead. Two of the other girls also stayed with us as they had booked an earlier flight from Paris and wouldn't have managed to see Giverny in time. We decided to have lunch at the café right in front of the station where we had a really tasty North African couscous with cooked vegetables. After that, the girls left to take their train while Adrian and I asked the owner if we could leave everyone's luggage there while we headed out to explore the town. We set to explore the center on foot, heading first across the river Seine to reach the other side where a beautiful and interesting building was set. A timber-framed mill was, in fact, standing on a stone arch which was once part of a bridge spanning the river. Only five pillars are all that remain of that bridge providing interesting photo opportunities. Right behind the mill stands also a nice medieval castle called Chateau de Tourelles featuring fortified towers and built at the end of the 12th century to guard the passage along the river. Giverny was set on the same side of the river as we were now, but that meant a long bit of walking so instead we decided to head back across and into Vernon itself. We reached the Collegiale Notre Dame, a nice gothic church serving as the main religious edifice of the town. The interior was light and airy and featured some beautiful details. Once outside, we face the neoclassical town hall built at the end of the 19th century and to the right a pretty street filled with timber-framed houses which we decided to walk along. Reaching the northwestern end of town we came across a medieval round tower known as the Tour des Archives originally built in 1123 by Henry I of England, son of William the Conqueror, and then replaced by a similar structure by Philip II of France.

The Abbaye aux Dames

Interior of the church

The walls of the Chateau

View from the top of the walls

One of the lovely streets of the old town

  

Another old town street

  

The complex of the Abbaye aux Dames

One of the cloisters of the Abbey, now site of the Regional government

Omaha Beach

The Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial

The bunkers overlooking Omaha Beach

View of Pointe du Hoc

The Mt St Michel

View from the monastery of the surrounding tidal flats

The cloister of the monastery

   

The refectory

The Knights' Room

View of the walls and the rising tide

  

The Mt St Michel in the distance

   

The timber frame mill in Vernon 

The Chateu des Tourelles

  

View of the Collegiale de Notre Dame from the back   

The Collegiale and timber frame buildings

The Tour des Archives

Castelfranco Veneto & Cittadella (01/05/2019)

After being back in Vicenza, I decided to do a day trip on the 1st of May holiday. So after an early wake up, I took the regional train and reached the first town of the day, Castelfranco Veneto. After getting out of the train station I headed towards the Villa Bolasco, located eat of the old town. A Venetian villa, it dates from between the 16th and 19th centuries. Originally, in fact, a group of buildings dating to the 16th and 17th centuries used to be located there, and the count Francesco Revedin rebuilt it at the end of the 19th century by adding a large English-style garden around the villa. After buying the entry ticket, I walked along the path and reached a large circular area lined by 17th-century statues which used to belong to the villa's early period. That area once used to serve as a horse-riding arena for the villa's owner. After walking around the large central pond sided by nice types of plants and trees. Then I passed by a Moorish revival styled building which serves as a glasshouse for plants and finally circled back to the entrance of the park. After exiting I then headed towards the city center and reached the eastern part where I could notice the red brick medieval walls which completely encircle the old town. The eastern part is also characterized by the Civic tower, an elegant structure dating between the 12th and 13th century like the rest of the walls. It was then elevated to its current height of 43m during the 14th century when a clock and the lion of st mark, due to having fallen under Venetian dominance, were added. After passing under the gate, I walked through the elegant architecture and reached the central Piazza San Liberale, flanked by the cathedral at its eastern end. I decided though to enter the Museo Casa Giorgione first, a 14th-century townhouse which is said to have been where the artist Giorgione used to live. After seeing the nice display among the house's decorated rooms, I headed right in front of the building where the Cathedral was located. The church itself, built in a Neoclassical style during the 18th century didn't possess anything particularly noteworthy apart from a very famous painting, by Giorgione itself, located in the Costanzo chapel. Known as the Pala di Castelfranco, it dates to 1504 and was commissioned by the condottiero Tuzio Costanzo for his son's death during a military campaign. It represents the Madonna on the throne holding the baby Jesus above the sarcophagus of the Costanzo family and with St Francis and St Nicasius on either side. After admiring the beautiful painting I then headed back out and through the southern walls where I followed a path alongside the moat and with a nice view of the walls. I circled around and then went back into the old town where I decided to have a quick lunch at a small osteria where I took a few Cicchetti, or small dishes, to eat. After that, I went back out of the city center and started walking westwards in the direction of Cittadella. I passed by the Villa Chiminelli, right outside the town limits, but found out it was closed so continued on. The weather was perfect and the sky was extremely clear, as I walked through the fields I could admire the mountains ranges to the north, which, due to the previous rainy days had meant the peaks and tops were still covered in snow. Passing through some rather bland towns I then reached Cittadella a few hours later. I had been there before but decided to visit the walls which I hadn't seen in ages and admire the view of the mountains from an even better perspective. As I reached the ticket office, located on the northern part of the walls, I found out there was already a long line, due to it being a holiday. I managed to get in after a few minutes and then started my walk on top of the walls counterclockwise. Built during the 13th century, the walls have a diameter of 450 meters and a total of 1461 meters in circumference. They are some of the best-preserved in Europe with just a tiny breach at the northwestern part which they fixed by building a wooden structure. Nonetheless, they are impressive to look at and grant an amazing view of the old town and the surrounding landscape from their 16 meters of height. After going around the whole perimeter I quickly walked through the town once more and reached the train station just in time to take my ride back to Vicenza.

The 17th century statues at the horse riding arena of Villa Bolasco

The Neo Mooresque glasshouse and the Villa Bolasco in the background

The english style garden of the Villa Bolasco

The walls of Castelfranco Veneto

The Civic Tower of Castelfranco Veneto

  

The Pala di Castelfranco by Giorgione

     

The town's main square and the Civic Tower

Castelfranco's walls

The southern gate of Cittadella       

View of the old town and the mountains in the background from the top of the walls

The impressive medieval walls

Castello di Govone (20/04/2019)

After leaving for Rome in the direction of Alessandria, I reached the station with a 6-hour train ride and after met up with my brother to do a small afternoon trip. We opted for the Castello di Govone, located just south of the city of Asti. After reaching the small town of Govone, located on top of a hill, we parked the car and then headed up to reach the castle. More of a palace than a castle, it is part of the Residences of the Royal House of Savoy and inscribed in the Unesco list. A medieval fortress used to sit on the site and was transformed during the 17th and 18th centuries into its current state. After first serving as a residence for the Solaro family it then passed under the house of Savoy and remained one of their summer residences until 1870 when they sold it to the town. Dominating the top of the town, we had a wonderful view of the surrounding landscape with fields starting to show the spring vegetation. We then decided to enter the palace itself, through the lavish southern prospect with the main door standing at the top of a nice staircase decorated with telamon statues. Through the main door, we entered the main and largest room, which once served as a ballroom. Then we continued on through some smaller rooms, once having diverse uses, such as bedrooms, study-rooms, audience rooms, etc. Some were well kept while others were quite run-down. Particularly noteworthy and extremely well kept were the last few rooms which were all decorated with wallpaper representing Chinese landscapes and figures. After visiting the building, we then headed out back through the ballroom and the main door and reached the small terraced garden in front of the palace. From there we admired the view and then walked a bit downwards through the old town of Govone. Consisting mainly of 18th and 19th-century architecture it felt like the typical Piedmontese hilltop town. Once we had walked around for a bit we then decided to head back to the car and drive back to Alessandria in time for dinner.

The vineyards around the town of Govone

View from one of the rooms of the castle

The Chinese themed room

View of the castle

The town of Govone and the surrounding vineyards