Cammino di San Francesco from Rimini to La Verna (25-31/05/2019)

After having requested time off from work both Ania and I decided to do a week trip somewhere together. I had thought of a possible multi-day hike we could do and stumbled upon this overlooked trail part of the larger St Francis Way, which instead of following the more popular and traditional route from Florence to Assisi, started from the other side of the Apennines, in Rimini to be exact, and ended at the Sanctuary of La Verna. Right after Ania's landing in Venice Treviso Airport, my mom drove us as fast as she could all the way to the train station in Mestre where we were able to take the only direct train taking us in Rimini in less than three hours without having to switch in Bologna. After arriving, we first headed to our accommodation for the night, Hotel Jana, to check-in. After a quick check-in we headed out; the beach was just a few blocks away so we decided to head there first. Despite it being a cloudy day (rain and clouds would follow us for most of our trip, unfortunately) the view was nice as the beach umbrellas were all closed and nearly nowhere around. After we decided to head and visit the old town, and on the way stopped at a place called Piada e Cassoni Ciada e Monda. Here we learned the difference between a Cassone and a Piadina: they are the same in ingredients, but the former is cooked and closed with the filling inside (like a large raviolo) while the latter has the filling added after the dough is cooked and is not sealed but left open (like a sandwich). We both took a tasty and cheap Cassone and enjoyed it on the go. After a little bit of walking, we reached the southern end of the old town, marked by the impressive Arch of Augustus. Rimini was in fact founded by the Romans back in 268BC, called then Ariminum, and was a major city and a key communications link between the northern and southern parts of the peninsula throughout the Roman era. This is why there are still several testimonies to its ancient past, such as the case of the gate mentioned before. Erected in 27BC and dedicated to Emperor Augustus, the arch marked the end of the Via Flaminia which connected the capital Rome, to the city and the surrounding Romagna region. The battlements of the upper part date to the 10th century, when the gate was incorporated into the medieval walls built around the city center. After walking under it we entered the town proper and walked along its pretty streets. We then reached the Tempio Malatestiano, the city's cathedral, but found it closed due to the late time of the day. We then turned into a side street and arrived at a large square, the Piazza Tre Martiri, so-called as it was dedicated to three partisan fighters brutally hanged in the square during WWII. The square featured mostly reconstructed post-war buildings with a few notable exceptions. First, the clock tower, built in 1547, which was then reconstructed in 1759. It was badly damaged during an earthquake in 1875 and finally received its current aspect in 1933. It still features the original clock dating to 1562. Then the small Tempietto di Sant'Antonio, a chapel built in 1518 and rebuilt in the Baroque style after an earthquake that occurred in 1672. From there, we walked onwards and reached another square, Piazza Cavour. This is considered as the city's main square since the 13th century, as it features buildings dating from different centuries. Particularly noteworthy are the three buildings on the northern side of the square, the town hall hosted inside Palazzo Garampi dating to the 16th century, the Palazzo dell'Arengo dating to the 13th century and once hosting the citizen's council during the Middle Ages, and the Palazzo del Podesta' built in 1334 for the town's administrator. On the other side, to the south stands the nice baroque portal of what used to be the old fish market. To the west stands the 19th century Teatro Amintore Galli, unfortunately heavily damaged during WWII. At the center of the square stands the really nice Fontana Della Pigna. Originally built during the Roman times, it suffered a complete makeover in 1543 as three years before it had been damaged by fireworks used to celebrate the future Pope Julius III. It served as the only point for the water supply of the city until 1912 when the public aqueduct was built. Behind the theatre, we then reached the castle, Castel Sismondo. Built during the 16th century for the Malatesta family, who ruled over the city, it now presents just the central structure, once surrounded by another set of walls and a moat. Walking onwards we then reached the Ponte di Tiberio, a Roman bridge built in 20AD. It once served as the crossing over the Marecchia river, then diverted, during the 1930s, a little further north in order to spare the city from flooding; it now crosses over a canal still ending in the sea. After crossing the bridge we reached a really pretty area, called Borgo San Giuliano, and featuring nicely colored houses, once belonging to fishermen and port workers but now refurbished and the place where many young people meet for aperitivo. After walking around for a while, we then headed back through the city center as the sun started to set. We passed under the Arch of Augustus once again and then reached our accommodation where we fell asleep quickly after. The following day, after waking up relatively early and an average breakfast we then headed out, backpack ready and legs stretched, to start our hike. We first gave one last look at the beach before crossing into town and stopping at the Tempio Malatestiano, unlike the previous day, now open. Originally a 13th-century Gothic building and dedicated to St Francis, it was rebuilt at the expense of Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta, at the time ruling over the city, who commissioned it to the famous architect Leon Battista Alberti in 1450. Even though unfinished, the facade was never completed as can be clearly seen, it was built following the Renaissance principles of geometry and structure also following ancient roman ideals and characteristics. The interior featured a mix of Gothic and Renaissance styles, with some impressive side altars including Sigismondo Malatesta's sepulcher. During WWII, the church had been heavily bombed and it was impressive to see how much restoration had been done to salvage what possible. After the visit to the Cathedral, we then headed southwestwards and started to leave the city's suburbs behind us, heading slightly uphill. We reached the Santuario Santa Maria Delle Grazie, located on the hills overlooking Rimini, and built during the 15th century. Here the priest stamped our pilgrim passport and was happy to know we were taking up the pilgrimage to La Verna. Walking further along the hills, under a cloudy sky, we decided to stop at a ruined building surrounded by beautiful poppy fields and have our lunch there. On the way down we met a super cute dog who greeted us through the fence and was super happy to receive some scratches and rubs. As we continued on it started to rain so we grabbed our ponchos and put them on so as not to get too wet. The wind and size of the poncho did not really help but nonetheless, it was better than not having it at all. As we followed a bike path that ran along the Marecchia river we could see the waters swelling from the huge amount of water which had been falling today and in the previous days (a thing which we would also notice during the upcoming days). After a few hours of walking in relative peace, we eventually reached the town of Villa Verucchio, a modern group of houses set close to the river. We crossed the town and then had to walk a little further uphill in order to reach the Convento Santa Croce, a monastery set right above Villa Verucchio which was going to be our accommodation for the night. The priest came to meet us as we arrived and showed us where we would be sleeping, he then told us to leave the offering and keys in the post box the following morning before leaving. Then he waved goodbye and left us alone in that huge building. After showering, and preparing our stuff for the night, we explored the many rooms filled with bunk beds (mostly used by scout groups, which due to the weather were now completely empty except us two). Then we also gave a look at the small church, dating to the 14th century. The monastery is supposed to be the oldest Franciscan building in the whole of Romagna and the first, but obviously not the last, Franciscan site of our hike. At the center of the monastery's cloister stood high and strong (but supported by extra wooden poles and metal pulleys) a beautiful cypress, which the legend says, was the branch that St Francis had used during his walk and planted here to give us the tree we see now. We started to become quite hungry so we decided to head back into town and look for a place for dinner. We stumbled upon a large gathering of people at a place called Bar Zanni Caffetteria. We decided to pop in as we spotted some nice looking dishes on the countertop. Probably one of the best decisions ever, we figured out we had stumbled upon an amazing apertitivo, which for just 12 euros per person granted us a drink of our choice plus a free food buffet. After taking a spritz and a Hugo, we dug in the many dishes coming out of the kitchen including, pizza, pasta, cold cuts, second courses, desserts, and even Nutella crepes and delicious mini ice-creams, literally the best aperitivo I ever had. After filling up and feeling very satisfied we decided to head back up the hill, a hard feat after so much food, and reaching the monastery where we got ready to sleep. The following day, after seeing a little longer, we started our hike by heading towards Verucchio, a historic town set above a hill overlooking the more modern Villa Verucchio. Once we reached the town, we first headed to see the main parish church, the Collegiata San Martino, built during the 19th century. Then, we walked through the pretty old town streets and reached the highest point where the Rocca Malatestiana is located. Ania decided to wait outside, while I headed in after paying an entrance ticket. The castle was built during the 12th century and further expanded under the rule of Sigismondo Malatesta. The structure featured a small courtyard and a keep that hosted a small museum of archaeological objects. The view from there was spectacular, with the town and its medieval structure on one side and the open hilly countryside with the Marecchia river flowing through on the other. Once my tour of the castle was over I rejoined Ania and together we headed to a small place called Piadastyle on the town's main square. There we got a tasty Cassone each and enjoyed it while sitting down. After lunch, we got back on our feet and resumed our walk this time diverting from the pilgrimage route in order to have an extra day and visit the country of San Marino, only a few kilometers away.  We headed south and walking along verdant hilly fields, eventually reaching the border with the small state. Known as the oldest constitutional republic, it does not differ much from Italy as it has the same language of the surrounding Romagna region and the same food as well. I had been there many years before on a school trip but had promised Ania we would deviate in order for her to see it as well. After reaching the foot of Monte Titano, the large solitary mountain on which the city of San Marino stands, we decided to take the cable car which would bring us to the peak. The weather was such a mess that a huge mist had completely enveloped the area making it seemly impossible to see anything, nonetheless, we still enjoyed the ride and appreciated the fact that we had skipped a large hike uphill in order to reach the city. After reaching the peak, we then started to wander around the old town's streets. The first monument we encountered was the Basilica di San Marino, originally built in the 4th century it needed to be fully rebuilt during the 19th century, precisely in 1807, due to the terrible conditions in which it stood. This clearly showed in its typical Neoclassical structure, with tall slender columns characterizing its exterior and interior. Inside a plaque remembers the visit of Pope John Paul II in 1982 and that of Pope Benedict XVI in 2011 both of whom decided to homage the remains of Saint Marinus. From the cathedral, we then continued on and reached the small Piazza Della Libertà, the town's main square. Also surrounded by a thick fog, it featured the elegant Palazzo Pubblico at its northern end. It is where the official ceremonies of this tiny Republic take place and the main seat of several of the country's governing bodies. An older palace used to stand here, dating to the 14th century, however, it was torn down and rebuilt at the end of the 19th century. From there we continued on and walked further along the winding streets all built on top of each other on the steep rock on which the city stands. We passed by the medieval walls and decided to stop and have dinner at a place called Giulietti KmO, as everything seemed all the same and quite touristy. Ania's dish was not so good while my hamburger was slightly better but definitely nothing compared to all the amazing food we had and would have during the rest of the trip. The fog started to get thicker and thicker and we could barely see a few meters ahead of us. We decided to head to the warmth and comfort of our accommodation, Hotel Joli, which turned out to be a positive surprise. The following morning, after an early rise and a filling breakfast we were relieved to see the shining rays of the sun had decided to show themselves. We headed out and decided to walk through the town once more this time being able to appreciate the architecture with much greater visibility and warmth. After a bit of walking, we finally reached one of the three peaks overlooking the town of San Marino; the Guaita. On top of it stands the Guaita fortress, the oldest of the three constructed on each of the peaks, the best preserved and probably the most famous. From up there, we could enjoy a beautiful view both down the western slope and to the eastern one in the direction of the Adriatic Sea. A path, which we followed, followed the crest of the mountain and reached, among pretty trees and splendid views, the second fortress, Cesta. The path to reach the third and last tower was not easily accessible so, after admiring the view from that spot we decided to head back and walk through the town. Then we started on our hike in the direction of the next town along the Via di San Francesco. We crossed once more the border and entered into Italy, continuing among nice verdant hills. The weather was much nicer than the day before, with rays of sunshine often peeking out among the meager clouds. As we joined once more the official path we followed once more the way close to the Marecchia River. We reached the small town of Pietracuta, where we were able to buy some food from a supermarket right before closing time. We then set ourselves on a bench and enjoyed our food while giving a well-deserved break to our legs.
After lunch,  following a sharp turn left we followed the path this time leading uphill in a final stretch towards our destination for the day. The clouds had decided to come back but it was not threatening to rain yet. Finally, our destination, the town of San Leo was in sight, far in the distance. We followed the path leading through lush fields, starting to feel the weight of the day on our already tired legs. After a bit of walking, we then reached the convent of Sant'Igne just outside of San Leo. I took a quick deviation to take a look while Ania kept on the path. The convent was closed (used mostly for celebrations) but its architecture was noteworthy even from the outside. Built during the 13th century,  it features a nice Romanesque structure with some Gothic additions and a nice cloister which was closed off by a fence. After having a quick look around I turned back and rejoined with Ania as we approached the town of San Leo. We could clearly admire its structure from this side as a solitary rock jutting out among the forest-covered hills. At its top, the fortress overlooking the area and right below it to the right the small town that had developed. Particularly interesting was also the fact that this side of the rock showed a large rockslide that might have been caused recently. I then checked up later on online and found out that in fact in 2014 a whole portion had abruptly sliced down causing much unrest but luckily no harm to people or buildings. As we continued on we finally reached the Porta di Sopra, the medieval city gate marking one of the entrances to the old town. We walked up the street and approached one of the houses where, after waiting for our host, a kind lady, opened her B&B and let us in to check into our room. Our room looked really nice and comfortable, with its own bathroom and a window view over the old town and the fortress on top. After showering and changing into fresh clothes we then headed out again and decided to explore the streets. Right next to our accommodation, the pretty Piazza Dante Alighieri opened out with at its center a nice renaissance fountain and the back of the apse of the Piece di Santa Maria Assunta. The sun had decided to briefly show itself once more granting a bit of warmth and a nice view of the typical stone buildings characterizing the town. We continued on and passed by the Cathedral of San Leone, unfortunately already closed, and the Civic Tower, detached from the cathedral as it was once part of a complex made up of a small fortress guarding this part of the town. A little further we then reached a nice little park which served as a beautiful panoramic point. From there we had an incredible view over the hills to the north and the river Marecchia flowing strong down below. Behind us the old town with the fortress overlooking it and shining in the sunlight. We decided to head there after enjoying the view for a while. As we headed up the hill we passed by the so-called Pozzo di Cagliostro. Count Alessandro di Cagliostro, alias of Giuseppe Balsamo, was an adventurer and self-styled magician from the late 18th century. Due to the period and the nature of his dealing he often got into trouble, such as in France, where he was imprisoned in the Bastille for nine months. Then his travels took him through England and then back in Italy where he was again imprisoned in Rome in the Castle Sant'Angelo for heresy by the Church, tried and sentenced to death. The sentence was modified into life imprisonment in the fortress of San Leo. Here he was put in the worst cell possible, known as the pozzetto or little well, as the only way in was by lowering a rope down from the tiny trapdoor on top. He died after nearly 4 years of imprisonment and was buried without a ritual due to his anticlerical feelings. The corpse on the way to the burial place was laid down on the well just below the fortress which is now known as Pozzo di Cagliostro, and a plaque mentions that occasion. From there, we then decided to head up a steep set of stairs which eventually brought us to the Fortress, high above the rock. It was unfortunately already closed due to the late time but we nonetheless enjoyed seeing it from the outside and admired its impressive fortifications. We also had a nice view of the town below and the surrounding hilly landscape. As we descended back into town, we decided to look for a place for dinner; being the town so tiny we didn't really have to think too much where to eat as one restaurant was closed so we just opted for another, the Taverna Delle Guardie. Here we had a really great dinner, with a very tasty cheese platter with different jams as an appetizer and then a first course each accompanied by local red wine. After a good night's sleep the following day we woke up with pouring rain. We decided to wait a little before heading out and hope it would stop or at least become less strong. In the meantime, we headed to visit the Pieve di Santa Maria Assunta as it was now open. Built during the 9th century it is the oldest religious building in the Montefeltro, the historical hilly region of which San Leo is part. It featured a simple interior with nice columns, some of which re-used from the ancient Roman period. Then, next door, we also visited the Cathedral of San Leone. This one, built during the 12th century over a pre-existing church, features a beautiful romanesque structure. The interior featured Langobard capitals some of which were not just at the top of the column but also at its base. The crypt also features some interesting decorations on the capitals, representing mythological animals and human figures. Once outside the church, the weather had not seemed to improve so we decided to set ourselves on the path nonetheless. It was misty, rainy, and damp; we passed then through a small hamlet called Poggio and then reached an area surrounded by badlands. The landscape was impressive but, as you can imagine, due to the rain, the path was all muddy, wet, and slippery. We proceeded as slow as we could but nonetheless, each time risked a fatal slip. Eventually, we were able to pass that part, having thought often if not to turn back instead. The luckily the path turned into gravel, right after a small church of St Roque, and descended down along a forest. To our surprise though, as we reached the end of the valley, we found out that the bridge that was supposed to cross a little river had completely collapsed and disappeared. We were dismayed, we certainly didn't want to hike back up all the way and attempt the crossing of the muddy badlands once more, but on the other hand crossing the river, which had now become an impetuous flow of water, looked hard if not impossible. I scouted the area walking along the bank and seeing if there seemed to be a bend that could be more easily crossed, but the flow of water was constant, the banks far from each other and the bushes and trees made it also painful to get through. I then had an idea and attempted to start moving large rocks and piling them up on the side of the bank to attempt to create a platform. The rush of the water was so strong that most, even the larger ones, were being carried off. Eventually, though I was able to have a little part jutting out from where I could stand. The other side seemed still very distant, so I decided to leave the bag to Ania first and attempt to jump to the other side. I managed to land just past the water and quickly attempted to make a platform on the other side as well to make it easier for Ania to cross. She then threw me both bags and attempted the jump herself. She made and after panting and cheering at the same time we left ourselves down on the ground to recuperate. After a bit of walking, we then reached the town of Novafeltria, right across the Marecchia River. This time the bridge, carrying also cars and made in cement, had not had the same fate as the one we encountered previously. Once we reached the main square, we considered our options, as we were still halfway through the hike for the day and the rain seemed not to stop at all. We thought that now since the hike would head uphill, that mean slippery slopes full of mud, possible slides, and worse. We decided then to wait there and catch the next bus which would take us to our destination: Sant'Agata Feltria. We didn't need to wait long and eventually managed to board the bus which in little time brought us there. Once off the bus, we decided to head to our accommodation first and try to wash, change, and dry our wet clothing. We thus headed to Capuchin Convent, which I had called in order to ask for two beds. Once there, the priest led us in, showed us the large kitchen, and then to the rooms upstairs. There were several small rooms with 2 to 4 bunk beds each. We chose the rooms randomly and found out we were going to be the only two there that night. We then showered, changed, and unpacked our stuff, using our tiny hairdryer to dry out what we could of our shoes and socks. The room was quite cold and damp and the heating had been turned off as it was May and such weather was very rare then. We then decided to head out and explore the town a little, by heading first to Piazza Garibaldi, the town's main square. Though small, it was quite nice particularly thanks to its Baroque palace, Palazzo Fregoso, now the town hall. From there we then went past an alleyway and then up a staircase which led us right at the foot of the Rocca Fregoso, the town's castle. We decided to pay the ticket price and see the interior; the museum inside is dedicated to fairy tales. Each room presents and describes popular fairy tales from around the world through the use of media, lights, and interactive material. Among the exhibit, we could also see the remaining traces of the original 12th-century castle and its 15th-century additions, such as decorated fireplaces. The view from the top was also nice and despite the weather, we could admire the surrounding lush hilly landscape. Once out of the castle we then decided to look for a place to have dinner. We opted for a place called Trattoria Bossani, just outside the medieval nucleus, and the lady owner told us she would have to see as we were the only clients there. In the end, she decided to open her kitchen and served us some homemade tagliatelle; with meat sauce for me and with mushrooms for Ania. After a filling meal, we then decided to head back to our accommodation and finally give our legs some rest.
The following day, after waking up at a decent time, we grimly noticed the weather had not changed, and the constant mist, clouds, and rain were still ever-present. We first had a quick breakfast at a local bakery and then set ourselves on the path. We followed a cement road for quite a while, without luckily seeing any cars, but that meant a respite from the mud drenched gravel paths. Then through a forest, we followed a gravel path which luckily was untouched by the rain and made the walk pleasant and fast. After a nice trail meandering through the forest, we eventually reached a cemented road once again and approached a large rock formation part of the larger Monte Fumaiolo. The name, recalling that of the smoke and thus clouds, was quite apt as we noticed the mist had decided to descend once more. As we walked through the tiny center of Balze di Verghereto, our destination for the day, we noticed some street signs indicating the spring where the Tevere river, the one flowing through Rome, is born. It seemed so strange that in this mountainous area, away from all kinds of chaos and large cities, one of the largest and most important rivers in Italy starts its course. After reaching our accommodation, the Appartamento Montefumaiolo, the owner, a super nice and kind man, showed us in and even offered to dry our shoes and wet socks next to his fireplace. So after a nice hot and relaxing shower and changing into fresh clothes we set ourselves to look for a place to have dinner. We opted for the Ristorante Pizzeria Sorgente del Tevere, where we had an incredible and cheap meal. We took a pizza each, which were huge, and an antipasto for me which ended up being for 2 people so Ania helped with it as well. To that, we added some water and a nice house wine. We ended up paying less than 10 euros each. As we then headed back to our accommodation a beautiful sunset, with a partly clear sky had decided to show itself, illuminating the rocky formation of the nearby Monte Fumaiolo and giving a nice orange hue to the sky. The morning after, our last day in this pilgrimage, we woke up early to a clear blue sunny sky. Being at 1091m above sea level it was still very chilly but at least the end of May sun helped heat up a bit. We first had breakfast in town and then set ourselves on the path to our final destination. As we walked alongside verdant fields, our view could finally gaze far in the distance and spotted some beautiful hilly formations, clear in the crisp and windy weather. We descended down until we crossed right above the freeway, and then continued on this time walking uphill. All around us were just forested covered hills; at one point we even encountered a herd of sheep, but as soon as we heard the guard dogs barking decided to leave quickly. As the hill became steeper and steeper we decided to stop for lunch in a nice sunny spot and sat on a log while eating the sandwiches we had prepared in the morning. Getting then back on our feet we reached the top of the hill from where we had an incredible 360 degrees panorama. We then noticed that the path continued downhill once more so we reluctantly followed it as that meant it would eventually go uphill once more. We had unknowingly crossed the border between Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany and only by looking at the map did I notice that. We had then reached the highest point in that area, the Poggio Tre Vescovi, located at 1238m above sea level. We continued on and further into a nice oak forest and then out again in the open field. Eventually, after a series of ups and downs, we finally reached our destination: the Sanctuary of La Verna. It was here in fact, that we started to encounter the first pilgrims for the whole duration of our pilgrimage. These pilgrims, however, were heading in the opposite direction as the more popular route was the one starting at La Verna or Florence and ending in Assisi. As we approached the religious site, we were awed by its impressive architecture and sense of peace and serenity it permeated. The Sanctuary was in fact built in complete isolation on top of a rock formation called Monte Penna at 1128m during the 13th century. It was here in fact that St Francis of Assisi is said to have received the stigmata in 1224. A church was then built in that location and a monastery was then formed around that church incorporating structures that can still be seen today. As we reached the entrance to the monastery we went to check-in and were shown to our pilgrim accommodation: a large room with several single beds all aligned next to each other. Then after taking our respective beds and unrolling our sleeping bags, we decided to explore the monastery. We first headed out to a large opening called Quadrante, where a large wooden cross was set. This space opened up in front of the church and granted an incredible view over the valley below and the surrounding hills. From there we followed the so-called Portico Delle Stimmate, a 16th-century passageway with paintings from the 20th century replacing the original ones. The passageway then led to a stair that took us down to the small Cappella Della Stimmate, a chapel built on the site where in 1263 St Francis received the stigmata. The interior holds two glazed terracotta sculptures, one medallion representing the Madonna with child and the other a Crucifixion both by the famous Andrea Della Robbia and dating to the late 15th century. Then a small passageway led outside on an outcrop that jutted out from the rock and granted us another beautiful view of the surrounding landscape. A plaque, on glazed terracotta, says that once when the devil tried to throw St Francis down this outcrop, the rock behind the saint received his body and saved him from the fall. This is why the form of the rock takes that of a human body, specifically that of St Francis. We followed the passageway to the end and got back out in front of the church. Known as the Basilica Maggiore, this building was begun in 1348 and was only completed in 1509. A mix of styles, it features a renaissance portico and inside several glazed terracotta altars and sculptures by the famous Andrea Della Robbia. In one of the chapels, behind a glass window, is the robe that St Francis used to dress. After the visit to the Basilica, we then headed back through the monastery, passing by several small cloisters of different periods, the gothic one of which was particularly nice looking. Next to it, in a side room, there was even a historical reconstruction of apothecary's shop with the typical furniture and objects. We were now quite famished, and so after heading to the dining hall, seated down at some tables assigned to us together with other pilgrims who were spending their night there. Some nuns then joined as well and dishes starting to be carried over. We had a warm and hearty vegetable soup (I asked for a refill two times) and then several cooked vegetables and fish (for those who wished for it) as second course. We then finished off with some fruit and dessert. The atmosphere was quite homely, with the servers moving around and carrying dishes, the nuns quite silent yet friendly, and the other pilgrims from all over the world discussing and talking about their respective hikes. After a nice filling dinner, we were ready to hit the bunk the end of our long and exciting hike that took us from the town of Rimini on the Adriatic Sea all the way to the solitary and important monastery of La Verna.

The Arch of Augustus in Rimini

The Tempio Malatestiano's unfinished facade

The Castel Sismondo

The ancient Roman Ponte di Tiberio

The pretty Borgo San Giuliano

The green wheat fields around Rimini

The Santa Croce Convent and St Francis' Cypress

View of the old town of Verucchio

The fog in San Marino

Early morning view of San Marino's Palazzo Public

The Guaita fortress and walls

View of the Guaita fortress from the Cesta fortress

The rocky outcrop on which the town of San Leo sits

San Leo's Main Street and Fortress

The Cathedral of San Leone in San Leo

San Leo's fortress

The Badlands close to San Leo

View from Sant'Agata Feltria's castle

The castle of Sant'Agata Feltria

Weed covered houses

The foggy atmosphere before reaching the town of Balze

Sunny view of the landscape around Balze

The rocky outcrop above Balze

A horse grazing among the verdant fields of the Apennine Mountains

The rocky formation of the Sanctuary of La Verna

View of the surrounding landscape

La Verna's sanctuary

Via Francigena (16-22/07/2018)

After our hike from Siena to Rome in 2016 along the Via Francigena, my brother and I decided to take another leg of this pilgrimage, this time in its first part from the Great St Bernard Pass to Santhia. We asked our cousin, Giovanni, who accepted after a bit of convincing. After leaving Vicenza, and sleeping one night in Alessandria at our relatives´ house, the next morning our aunt and uncle kindly drove us all the way to the Great St Bernard pass where we would start our hike. We first decided to see the Great St Bernard Hospice, a historical hospice located in Switzerland which was used since early times by pilgrims and travelers alike and set at an impressive altitude of 2469m above sea level. After my brother and cousin bought their pilgrim credential inside (i used my old one) we exited the building and started noticing some dogs being carried around on leashes. We noticed that they were all belonging to the same race, St Bernard: it is here in fact where they are raised. So after waving goodbye to our aunt and uncle, we set ourselves to start our hike. We circled the small lake set right next to the hospice, where I even put my feet and legs in to test the extremely cold water and crossed then into Italy. From there the whole way was now downhill, with impressive views over the surrounding Pennine Alps. After a bit of walking through nice areas patched with flowers and small rivulets, we reached the Don Angelo Carioni House, a pilgrim hospice, and the first coming into Italy. We continued on still heading downhill, and the first trees started to appear as we reached an appropriate height for their growth. We crossed a road and then entered the small village of Saint-Rhémy-en-Bosses where we had a small break to eat our lunch. After the brief stop, we continued on through the small hamlet and gave a look at its 18th-century church of San Lorenzo. A bit later we reached the slightly larger village of Saint-Leonard-en-Bosses. here we gave a brief look at the 19th-century church of St Leonard and the Bosses Castle, which stands right next to the church. It is more of a single keep tower and dates between the 14th and 15th centuries. Further on we passed the small hamlet of Cerisey, which consisted of a few sparse houses, and then through the village of Saint-Oyen with its castle called  Château-Verdun. The castle which served as a defensive structure was used as a hospice for travelers and nowadays serve the same function. Not much later we finally reached our destination for the day: the town of Etroubles. We first decided to head to our accommodation, as we had booked a place at the Campground Tunnel. Once there, we were given one of the small wooden huts which barely fitted the three of us but was quite cool nonetheless. We even had a pool in the camping which I immediately tested despite the slightly chilly temperature which had come as the sun was now covered by clouds. After taking a shower, washing our clothes and hanging them on the clothesline, we were now ready to explore the old town. Part of the club the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy, Etroubles has a characteristic center filled with beautiful stone houses featuring wooden beams. We walked through its pretty medieval streets filled with flowers hanging from balconies and set on the side inside pots. We also had a look at the main church of Santa Maria Assunta dating to the beginning of the 19th century with the bell tower dating from the 15th century which used to belong to the previous church. We then decided it was time for dinner, and as my brother really wanted to eat at a restaurant we decided to look for one. Having there just about three in the whole town we opted for the one in the Hotel Col Serena, where I had a fonduta, or fondue, with bread. Being in the mountains and in a quite touristy town,  the prices were quite high and the food did not fill me up much. After dinner, we went back to the camping where we then later went to sleep ready for the next day of walking.
The following morning, after a difficult rise up from the pain of the walk, we got our stuff and left Etroubles. We first passed by the small hamlet of Echevennoz and then walked through a nice forest which covered us from the already hot weather. Along our path, we were sided by a typical Ru, a water canal which is exclusive of these areas and which served since the middle ages to bring water from the many rivers to areas where the water was not present due to the fact these mountains are very dry compared to other parts of the Alps. Along the way, we also encountered some cows which were herded by a shepherd. Two barking dogs were following him as well as an unlikely pair of goats. After reaching an opening in the forest we had an incredible view of the Pennine mountains and took a few photos. Later on, we reached again some buildings, and then the church of Sant´Ilario in the town of Gignod with its nice medieval frescoes, and dating to the 15th century. A few streets down we then admired the Gignod Tower, a surviving medieval tower which used to be one of many located in the valley to guard the entrance from the north. From there on the way was mostly on asphalt and on sidewalks, until we finally reached the city of Aosta. As we headed to the Airbnb we had booked, we stopped at a large supermarket where we bought food to make lunch, dinner and for breakfast the next day. After checking in, we quickly showered washed our clothes and then made a nice lunch with gnocchi, salad, and fruit. Finally an appetizing and filling meal. After lunch, we decided to explore the city, while Giovanni chose instead to stay home and relax. After walking along the main street reached the Porta Pretoria first, one of the best testimonies to the Roman past of the city. It once used to be the eastern entry gate while now stands nearly at the center of the city. Built in 25 B.C.it is considered as one of the best preserved Roman gates and features two arches with the road running below them. Around it are medieval stone buildings which were built on top of parts of the gate. Not far ahead we then reached a small square where the Basilica of San Lorenzo and the Collegiata di Sant´Orso are located. The former was closing and had an entry fee while the latter was still open so we decided to visit it. Originally dating to the 9th century in the Ottonian style, a bell tower was added in the 12th century and refurbishments were made making the church mainly in a mix of Romanesque and Gothic styles. The interior reflects the styles perfectly and presents some nice preserved frescoes. However, the main part of the church is actually the cloister which we then proceeded to visit. Built during the 12th century in the Romanesque style, it features beautiful columns with an iconography representing scenes from the old testament, stories from the life of St Ursus, but also animals, mythological creatures and so on. 37 of the original 52 capitals are there with an additional 3 added later in the 18th century. Once back out we then continued walking through the city center and reached another roman monument: the theater. Unfortunately, as it was part of an archaeological site the entrance required a ticket and the booth was closing down, however, the kind sir manning it allowed to give a quick look inside for free. Built around the same time as the Porta Pretoria, it still features the cavea, where the people sat and the southern facade. After thanking the man at the entrance we headed out and passed through the large Piazza Emile Chanoux, the main square of the city. A little further on we then reached another square, the Piazza Papa Giovanni XIII, with the Cathedral which we entered as it was still open. Originally built in the 4th century, it was then replaced by an 11th-century church which later modified in the 15th and 16th centuries. The interior was, in fact, a mix of all styles and presented some nice remains of the original structure including the crypt, two beautiful mosaics, and some frescoes. After we exited, we admired the 16th-century facade which was crowned by a larger facade from the 19th century. Walking on we gave a quick look at the small church of Santo Stefano with a painted facade and a beautiful Baroque altar inside. Then walking through the old town we encountered the Croce di Città, a cross set in the middle of a street during the 16th century as a memorial to the Calvinists who were kicked out of the region in that period. A little further on we then reached the southern part of town where the walls encircle the old town, as in other parts of the city. This is where the Castle of Bramafam used to stand, now just a tower with a part of the walls remains and testimony to the structure. From there we followed the walls and passed by the Leper´s Tower and the Tour Neuve which flank the remains of the Roman walls. We were now close to our Airbnb so we decided to head back and have dinner and relax before going to bed,
The next day, after an early wake-up, we walked through the city center once again and passed by the impressive Arch of Augustus, yet another testimony of the Roman city, which was built in 25 B.C. to commemorate the victory over the Salassi, a Celtic tribe which used to inhabit the area. Just ahead we then crossed over a stone bridge, known as the Roman bridge, also built in the same period and which allowed the crossing of the small Buthier river, now completely dry in this point. We were now leaving the city of Aosta and heading east along the valley with the same name. After walking uphill among some nice vineyards we then reached the isolated church of Saint-Cristophe, with a Baroque structure but with the bell tower dating to the 13th century.  After a while, we then reached the Castle of Quart, which was unfortunately closed for renovation. We nonetheless enjoyed a small break under the cover of the trees and set ourselves to walk further. At one point we encountered a forking, and I decided to take the left path leading uphill while my brother and cousin took the right one leading down. I told them to go ahead and that I would be fast, thinking that by taking the left one I would have a nice view. I was, in fact, right, and I reached a spot where I could clearly see the castle from above with the beautiful mountains in the background. Then I ran back down and rejoined the others, and continued on. After walking along a nice path between open areas and forest we eventually reached the town of Nus. From there we decided to take a small detour from the Via Francigena, and crossing the Dora Baltea River, reached the small town of Fenis, where the famous castle is located. As we reached the building, we had to wait a few minutes before the tour to visit the interior could start, so we decided to eat some sandwiches we had bought in the previous town. The castle was built around the 14th century in its present form and it is one of the best preserved in the whole of Italy. Unlike other castles of the area which are built on top of inaccessible or easily defensible points, this was built on top of a small mound in a mostly flat area confirming the fact it was not just a defensive structure but rather a structure to show prestige. Our tour was beginning and we joined the small group which formed and led us inside the building. The castle is surrounded by two series of walls all supported by watchtowers and the main keep at its center. After walking through the courtyards we entered the keep proper and started our tour of the rooms. The rooms were very nice, and despite a lot of the furniture was a copy or came from another location there were also some originals. Furthermore, there were beautiful frescoes such as those in the chapel, and those on the walls of the small interior courtyard which have been perfectly preserved thanks to the mountain weather. As we finished our tour we descended down the courtyard and admired the beautiful staircase with a large fresco representing St George and the dragon above; along the walls and behind the wooden beamed terraces are frescoes of figures with proverbs and morals written in French. After setting ourselves back on the track we walked further, crossed the river once more and rejoined the Via Francigena in the town of Chambave. We walked uphill again and took a narrow path on the edge of the mountain which led past some groups of abandoned stone houses. After a bit, we finally reached the town of Chatillon, our base for the night. As we had found no pilgrim accommodation we had to book in a hotel, the Hotel Rendez Vous, though it turned out to be extremely great as we had a whole room for ourselves with a wonderful private bathroom which seemed such a luxury in such circumstances.
The following morning after waking up and getting ready we decided to buy some food from a nearby supermarket. Then from there, instead of following the Via Francigena which would take us back to the town center and up the mountain, we decided to cut directly to the next town which was very close to where we were buying the groceries. We thus reached the town of Saint-Vincent, famous for its hot springs, and gave a quick visit at the main church which featured a nice Romanesque structure and preserved medieval frescoes in its interior. After that, we exited the town and rejoined the Via Francigena, which after a few minutes took us to the incredible roman bridge of Saint-Vicent. Relatively well preserved, it was in use until 1839 when, unfortunately, probably caused by an earthquake, the main arch fell down. We walked then through some small villages made up of pretty stone houses and walked through some small patches of forest until we reached the small hamlet of Saint-Germain. From here we could see a tower jutting out from the top of a hill so we decided to head towards it. We passed by the local church which was closed and left our bags before heading further up to see the tower. A gate and fences blocked the way, signaling the place was inaccessible due to natural damage. I climbed it and told the others to follow, and then started to explore the ruins of what was once the Castle of Saint Germain. Most of the walls were still standing, as well as the main tower of the keep. Furthermore, from the southern side, an incredible view opened up towards a large valley where the Dora Baltea flows and the highway towards Piedmont runs. After exploring the castle, we headed back down, took back our bags and continued walking. We passed on a part of preserved Roman road which was sided by a nice setting with vineyards and views over the valley. We then reached the town of Montjovet where we decided to rest in the shade of the main church. After relaxing and eating lunch there we then continued on and had to climb yet another hill. Another hill meant another great view, this time with our final destination for the day in view: the town of Verres. After finally reaching the aforementioned town, we headed to the Collegiate Church of Saint Gilles which was going to be our accommodation for the night and the only real pilgrim one we had on the rip. After calling the priest and waiting, we left our luggage on the bunk beds and met other pilgrims which were staying there. Then we decided to head out to explore while our cousin chose to stay in and relax. We first decided to visit the church itself, which was built around the 10th century but later modified often presenting thus a mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque features. Then we decided to climb a nearby hill and visit the impressive Castle of Verres. Unlike many castles, this one was built as a single defensive cubic structure and doesn´t feature any decorative elements. being it dedicated solely to defensive purposes it was never conquered since its construction in the 14th century, and just slightly modified in the following centuries. As we entered we were able to get the last tour of the day which meant that my brother and I were the only visitors there.  The structure features an enclosed courtyard with a large staircase leading to the upper floors. All around the courtyard are the rooms which in their present form are bare of furniture as none survived to this day. However, it was still impressive and gave a way to concentrate more on the structure which was the most important part of the castle. After the visit, we went back down into the town and looked for a place to have dinner. We opted for the Ristorante le Due Valli, and the three of us satisfyingly filled up our bellies; then we were ready to head back to the church and sleep.
The following day, waking up after everyone else, we headed to the next town: Issogne. As it was quite close, we just had to exit the town, cross the bridge over the river and reached the main attraction, the Issogne Castle. After buying the ticket and following our tour guide, we entered the premises, with just the three of us as participants. This castle was the complete opposite of the one we had visited the previous day; if the other was built for solely defensive purposes, this was built for residential reasons. On site of its location used to be a Roman villa, which was built over during the 14th century by a Gothic residence then turned into a Renaissance one the following century. We first went through the main courtyard, in the typical Renaissance fashion with arches all around it and a beautiful 16th-century pomegranate tree made out of iron. Under the southern arches are a series of perfectly preserved frescoes depicting with realism and humor daily life scenes and trades of the period. One of these lunettes even presents the oldest depiction of the typical local cheese Fontina.  We then entered the castle proper and started touring the many rooms, which were furnished with 19th-century furniture in the fashion of the Renaissance style. We walked through the large kitchens, the rooms for guards, maids, and then up to the first floor where we saw the main living quarters. We also had a look at the chapel and then up to the second floor where more rooms were located as well as one with nice frescoes of imaginary landscapes. A particular thing throughout the castle was the impressive, interesting and sometimes funny graffiti found on the walls of rooms, on the staircases and even on the exterior loggias. After the visit to the castle, we thanked our guide and continued our walk, eventually reached the small sparse town of Arnad. Here we briefly stopped to take a look at the church of St Martin, a perfect example of Romanesque architecture dating between the 11th and 12th centuries. As we were quite hungry, we then decided to look for something to snack, and being in the town of Arnad decided to try the local delicacy, the Lard d´Arnard, a cured pork product which we enjoyed in a sandwich at a restaurant on the way. We explored a bit of the old part of the town with its typical stone houses and then continued on reaching another crossing over the Dora Baltea. The only way across was over a beautiful 18th century stone bridge which was recently restored and provided an interesting way to the other side. Traveling further we then reached the town of Hone, with the bell tower of the church of St George leading us the way into the center. We could now easily see the impressive Fort Bard, which we had already spotted in the distance already since the morning. We walked through the small town called like the fort, Bard, below it with typical stone houses and then started our ascent of the hill on top of which the fort is located. Comprising of a series of structures, despite having there been a defensive structure since the early times, what is shown today is a full reconstruction which took place during the 19th century by the House of Savoy to control access through one of the main entry points into Piedmont. Entrance to the fort was free, and the paid part related to the museum of the Alps which is hosted inside but we decided to skip due to not having much time. We crossed the complex and descended from the opposite side towards our destination. At one point the normal path turned into a familiar rocky road, which we discovered being the old Roman road which used to run through the area. Due to the rocky morphology, the Romans were able to cut through the stone with a perfectly straight line and make the passage through the valley much easier and safer. At the end of it we walked through the small town of Donnas, and then for a couple of kilometers walking along the sidewalk of a busy road until we reached our destination, Pont-Saint-Martin. Our accommodation was located in the southern part of the town, so we had to walk through the old center to get there. Of particular interest was the impressive Roman bridge, spanning the Lys river and built during the 1st century B.C. and still in use today. We continued on and finally reached the accommodation which was provided by the town municipality. The three of us got a room together and immediately went to shower, wash our clothes and so forth. Then as we were hungry we deiced to look for a place to eat. As it had started raining and we were quite tired, we opted for a pizzeria located not too far next to the train station.
The next day we got up and started our walk under a cloudy sky. Luckily the path was right next to our sleeping place and thus started our daily walk to the next destination. A few meters on and we were crossing over into the region of Piemonte. Despite the weather, the way was extremely beautiful passing through and among some typical vineyards supported by pillars which are locally known as "topie". We walked through the first town across the border, Carema, surrounded by vineyards and with typical stone houses.  We passed two small hamlets, Torredaniele and Cesnola, before reaching Settimo Vittone. The way went uphill following a partly dried out rivulet, which was set in a nice setting of vineyards and stone houses. At the top, we then encountered the Pieve di San Lorenzo, a beautiful rural church built during the 9th century in the Pre-Romanesque style. This used to be an important stop for pilgrims along the Via Francigena, and we obviously thought of giving it a look. The gate was however closed, but to our luck, a middle-aged man was standing next to the entrance while talking on the phone. As he saw, he stopped and asked if we wished to see the interior, joyfully we accepted and entered the premises. The structure was composed of the small church and the annexed baptistery, which was as large is size, due to the fact that once most inhabitants were not baptized and thus could not enter the sacred ground without prior baptism. Thus the need to built baptisteries closes to churches, like the beautiful examples in Emilia Romagna and Tuscany. As we entered the structured we admired the nicely preserved frescoes dating mostly from the 12th to the 15th century. After the visit we thanked the man and left the place noticing other people who were coming in, leading us to think the guy had been waiting for them to guide them. After a bit of walking through more vineyards, we passed an area with open fields and a nice group of sheep until we then reached a narrow path cut through the rock in which an abandoned stone building was set. It was dark and eerie and we approached slowly, finally exiting from the other side. We were not on top of a rocky outcrop and could easily see the wide valley down below us. Apparently, the rocky outcrop we were standing on top of was a popular site for rock climbing, as we saw a few people right below us. Descending down towards the valley we then passed by the private castle of Montestrutto and the abandoned church of San Giacomo, built during the 11th century. The landscape had now changed, devoid of vineyards and covered instead with extensive fields. Furthermore, the typical stone architecture we had found until then, was now replaced by the more typical Piedmontese buildings with red rooftops. We then walked through the hamlet of San Germano and then through the town of Borgofranco d´Ivrea with the bell tower of the main church serving as a city gate, and then reaching the town of Montalto Dora. Here we had to take a path leading uphill once more and passing through a wooded area filled with lakes. We passed right below the Castle of Montalto Dora and reached the pretty Lago Pistono, one of the lakes, and stopped there to have lunch. We chose a nice spot along the bank with a view towards the castle on top of a hill. As we finished eating it then started to rain, so we decided to put on our raincoats. After walking through the forest we then reached the outskirts of Ivrea, the largest city in the area. It had stopped raining and the sunshine was beginning to peer out from among the clouds. We took a bit of food from the supermarket and then continued our walk towards the city center.  We reached the Piazza Castello located on the upper part of the city where we had an incredible view over the old town,, with its typical red rooftops. behind us stood the Castle, built in the typical red brick of the area during the 14th century and surrounded by tall towers at each of its corners. The entrance was not open as it can only be visited during special occasions, so we decided to walk to the other side of the square where the cathedral is located. Originally built around the 10th century, it was then modified in later centuries particularly in the Baroque and Neoclassical styles giving its present aspect. In fact, if most of the structure is in the latter style, there are still some parts dating to the earlier building. The bell towers and the partly ruined cloister are Romanesque features which can be seen from the exterior while the interior still features the apse, chorus, and crypt from that period. After admiring the main nave with rich decorations we headed towards the apse and down the crypt where we admired the frescoes which were still intact. After exiting the cathedral, we then headed downhill and reached the central Piazza Ferruccio Nazionale where the Palazzo di Città, or town hall, is located and dating to the 18th century. We then crossed the old town along the central Via Arduino and reached the western part of town where, due to its perfect spot on a curve of the Dora Baltea which created waterfalls, the annual canoeing world championship was taking place. We, in fact, had tried to book the accommodation here in Ivrea, but due to the competition had to opt to a town a few kilometers further. As we watched the competition for a while we then decided to cross the river and head to the other side to explore further. The crossing was done over the so-called Ponte Vecchio, originally a Roman bridge it was then rebuilt during the middle ages and again in the 17th century until it took its present form during the 19th century.  As we reached the other side, we entered an area called Borghetto comprising a group of older buildings which sprang up thanks to the proximity to the bridge. Not much further we then reached an area which had just recently been inscribed in the Unesco World Heritage List. During the beginning of the 20th century, the entrepreneur Camillo Olivetti found a society which he named as his last name that gradually became world famous for its typewriters and electronics. From there all along the mid 20th century, particularly in the 50s, the company grew and it was decided that a whole neighborhood would be created to accommodate both the company´s buildings as well as the residences of the workers. So with an advanced design and planning for the area, such an area was built and which had, at the time of our visit then become a Unesco site for its social project to involve all aspects of the company life. After the visit to that area, we were finally ready to head out of the city and in the direction of our accommodation. After a few kilometers of flat ground, which were incredibly long for out extremely tired legs, we reached the town of Burolo where would be spending the night. The town was however on top of a hill and thus we had to climb all the way up to the top. There we entered a large building right in front of the main church which is used by school groups for activities and serves also as a pilgrim accommodation. The place was huge and just an Italian and a South American lady were living there. The hosted us in and showed us the rooms, the bathrooms and the rest. They then told us to leave the offer for the stay in the post box and asked us if we had eaten. We told them, unfortunately, we hadn´t so they called an old man who drove to a nearby town, as the only restaurant in the town was closed and got us pizza. We ate it in the courtyard and then headed back up to get ready to sleep.
The following day after a good night sleep despite the eerie feeling of such a large and dark place for just the three of us, we got an early start for the next leg of the walk. From the top of the town we had slept in we could clearly see the geography of the area which is formed by a moraine in the form of an amphitheater. We were standing at one of the edges of it and would descend down to its lower parts. After a little bit of walking, we passed by the church of Santi Pietro e Paolo in the small hamlet of Pessano. It was built probably between the 10th and 11th centuries and holds frescoes dating to the 15th century in its interior. Unfortunately, it was only open during the afternoon so we simply admired its exterior. As we passed it, a swarm of mosquitoes, easily visible was roaming in the area so we decided to walk quickly before being eaten alive. We then walked through the town of Palazzo Canavese and reached then a few kilometers later the town of Piverone. We stopped at the main square where a medieval brick gate still stands and decided to get some pastry from a local bakery to eat as breakfast. After a quick rest, we continued on and passed the main church which was closed. We were now walking on open fields surrounded by vineyards and great views. At one point in an isolated setting, we encountered the ruins of a church, known as the Gesiun. Built during the 10th century it was used as a rural church and as the populations of the area moved to settle elsewhere was left to ruins. Despite its state, it is still a great example of Romanesque architecture of the area.  Continuing on we started to spot in the distance a silhouette of a lake, peering out among the vineyards. Being at a higher altitude we could easily spot the banks of it surrounded by the hills and headed in that direction. We passed through the town of Viverone and headed down towards the lake with the same name. Here we walked along the shore admiring the vegetation and fauna present there. Then we reached a part which had a nice shoreline filled with hotels and places to eat and decided to order something to eat. In the meantime, I also decided to take a quick swim in the lake before the arrival of our food. The sun was quite strong so I did not feel cold despite the slightly chilly water.  After lunch we were back on track and heading on, reaching the small town of Roppolo not long after. We climbed a hill and reached its top where the Castle of Roppolo is located. From here we had an incredible view of the moraine and the lake of Viverone. We thought about visiting the castle, but as the visit was only through a guided tour which would only start an hour later we opted to skip it and continue on. After crossing through a forest we came out in view of the first houses of Cavaglia. We crossed through the city center, passing by the large church of St Michele and then detouring a few hundred meters to see an interesting and unexpected circle of Menhirs right next to the main road probably dating to 4000 B.C. We continued on and stopped to give a look at the church of Santa Maria di Babilone, which was unfortunately closed, but featured a nice Baroque exterior. From here the way was straight, flat and quite boring as we walked sided by corn, soy, and wheat fields all the way to the next town and our final destination: Santhia. We were rather tired and had walked the most kilometers in a day, for a total of nearly 40km, and so when we finally reached the Collegiata di Sant´Agata at the center of the city we were extremely relieved. We gave a quick look at the interior which was mostly rebuilt in the neoclassical style but still featured a Romanesque crypt and bell tower. Our aunt and uncle had decided to come and pick us up, so we found them waiting for us at a bar on the main square. After the ritual photo in front of the church, we got in the car and headed back to Alessandria ready to have a good rest.

  

The Great St Bernard Lake

View of the swiss part from the Great St Bernard Pass

Descending down into the Italian side

The mountains in the Italian side

  

The small town of Saint-Rhémy-en-Bosses

    

Flowers in Etroubles

  

View of Etroubles

Small river after Etroubles

View of the Pennine Mountains

   

View of the eastern part of Aosta

The Porta Pretoria, roman gate in Aosta

  

Aosta's Cathedral

The 16th century Croce di Città

  

The ruins of the Castle of Bramafam

  

View of the valley from the vicinity of Saint-Cristophe

Entrance to the castle of Quart

The castle of Quart from above

  

Walking along the paths on the upper part of the calley

View of the Dora Baltea river

The beautiful wooden loggia of the castle of Fenis

  

The staircase with the frescoe of St George

  

View of the caslte of Fenis

     

Approaching the castle of St Germain

View of the valley from the castle of St Germain

   

The ruins of the castle of St Germain

   

Vineyards along the path

The town of Verres

The fortified structure of the Verres castle

The castle of Issogne against the backdrop of the mountains

The courtyard of the castle of Issogne

One of the beautiful frescoes inside Issogne castle

The medieval bridge at Echallod

  

The Dora Baltea river and the Bard fortress

   

One of the old streets of Bard

The Bard fortress seen from the south

The roman road known as the Way of the Gauls

The main street in Donnas

The bridge of Pont Saint Martin

Typical vineyards around Carema

The small hamlet of Cesnola

The Pre-Romanesque Pieve di San Lorenzo

The castle of Montestrutto and the church of San Giacomo

The castle of Montalto Dora and lake of Pistono

Ivrea's castle

View over Ivrea's rooftops

   

The Cathedral of Ivrea

The Dora Baltea near the Ponte Vecchio in Ivrea

View of Lake Viverone from above

  

The Lake of Viverone

  

View from the castle of Roppolo

  

Typical countryside in the area of Santhià