Tom`s travels: Eolian Islands (05-20/10/2024)

For a longer trip, we decided to visit the Eolian islands in Sicily. There was a new flight opened up from Berlin to Reggio Calabria, and as we were already in Italy for a wedding in Verona we took a cheap flight from Venice to Reggio Calabria. Once we arrived in Calabria, we got out of the airport and took the local bus which in less than half an hour took us to the city center. We first reached our accommodation, the b&b Arte Mia, in the northern part of the city center, to leave our bags and change as we had brought a jacket with us and it was rather warm. After that, we were off to explore the city. We started out by walking along the beautiful seaside promenade, Lungomare Falcomatà, with the coastline and mountains of northeastern Sicily right in front of us, across the Messina Strait. We enjoyed the stroll admiring the nice buildings to the side, facing the sea, most of which were rebuilt or built newly after the terrible earthquake that hit the area in 1908. We passed by the Venetian neogothic Villa Genoese Zerbi, and in front of it was a nice modern theatre open to the sea, known as the Arena dello Stretto, and with in front of it a statue of Athena Promachos, representing the goddess Athena as a fighter and who stands in defense of the city of Reggio. At that point, after walking for a bit along the seafront we headed through the inner part of the city. The layout is in a grid plan as it was rebuilt like that after the earthquake. We passed by the building of the city theater, which also holds, on its back side, the Pinacoteca Civica, the local art museum. Next to it we went through the central Piazza Italia, where the main buildings and institutions are located, the town hall, the prefecture, and the metropolitan city offices. At the center of the square stands a statue representing Italy. Moving on we walked along the main street and then took a side street passing through the nice Piazza Biagio Camagna. From here the city slightly sloped upwards and we went up to reach the Aragonese Castle, one of the last surviving pre-earthquake buildings. Despite its name, the castle is much older, dating most probably during the early Middle Ages over a previous Greek and later Roman fortification. During the Aragonese period, it was then expanded and a moat around it was dug. It survived with little damage during the 1908 earthquake and today is open to the public and provides a beautiful view over the city. Inside we also saw a small exhibition on bergamot, a citrus fruit native to southern Italy, whose production once was mostly limited to the Ionian Sea coastal areas of the province of Reggio Calabria, to such an extent that it became a symbol of the entire city. After visiting the castle we headed back downhill and entered the Cathedral, built in a neoromanesque style following the earthquake. It was sad to see that the whole baroque structure of the old cathedral was lost, together with so many other buildings in town. We went inside quickly as there was a mass going on so we then continued on our walk. From the cathedral, we headed further downhill and reached the seafront once again. Here we saw the ruins of the massive ancient Greek walls from the 4th century B.C. that once served as a defense for the important port and city. Walking onwards we crossed the entire city center and reached the northern end where we headed to visit the National Archaeological Museum, which exhibits one of the most remarkable collections of artifacts from Magna Graecia. It had a really large collection and was divided into time periods and life aspects. Among the nice objects were statues, temple columns and friezes, coins, vases, mosaics, and most importantly the famous bronzes. The so-called Riace Bronzes, are two full-size Greek bronze statues of naked bearded warriors, cast about 460–450 BC that were found in the sea in 1972 near the town of Riace. The particularity of these is that first, they are two of very few surviving ancient Greek bronzes in the world, as most were melted or lost, and secondly their details and quality make them a particularly noteworthy technical and artistic craftmanship from the time. They are kept inside a microclimate room on top of an anti-seismic platform faced in Carrara marble. Also, next to them are two bronze head sculptures, the Testa del Filosofo and Testa di Basilea, also found at sea in 1969 and also dating to the 5th century BC. After the visit to the museum we then headed outside and it had gotten dark in the meantime. We decided to then look for a place to have dinner and opted for a pokè not far from our accommodation.

The next morning we woke up not too early and had another round visiting the city. We first headed along the main street, passing by the church of San Giorgio al Corso, and then reaching the central Piazza Italia, where visited the small archaeological area below it. It detailed the rich stratographic history of the city, from the ancient Greek times until the Middle Ages. From there we then headed uphill and reached the Chiesa degli Ottimati, originally dating to the 10th century in a Byzantine-Norman style. Despite it being rebuilt after the earthquake the interior holds a beautiful cosmatesque mosaic from the 12th-13th centuries. From there we descended down to the seafront and walked along the beautiful promenade enjoying the amazing sunny and slightly windy day. After the walk we reached the accommodation, grabbed our bags, and then headed off to the nearby port where we caught the ferry that took us to the Eolian Islands. We admire the nice view along the way, navigating the famous Messin Strait and watching the Calabrese and Sicilian coastline as we went. In around a hour and a half we had reached the first island of the trip, Vulcano. The island, hence its name, is known for its volcanic activity and contains several volcanic calderas, including one of the four active volcanoes in Italy that are not submarine. The word volcano, and its equivalent in several European languages, derives from the name of this island, which derives from the Roman belief that the tiny island was the chimney of Vulcan, the Roman god of fire. We saw and felt the activity immediately as we landed, with the typical sulphuric smell and the puffs of smoke coming from the caldera right next to us. It was really amazing and I immediately thought what a great idea it was to come there. I had always hoped to visit these islands and finally, I was there to experience it all. Once at the port, a walk through town led us to our accommodation, the Hotel Orsa Maggiore. We had a room right by the pool which was quite nice. After leaving our stuff and changing we decided to go for a walk around the area. We passed by the natural mud pools set right next to the sea, but which were unfortunately closed at that time. Then we walked a little further and reached the Baia Negra beach, one of two main beaches in town, this one facing west. The sand, as expected, was black, and with the calm sea water and literally no one around felt like paradise. Right ahead as if a continuous part of the island were actually the cliffs and mountains of the nearby Lipari island, and right behind it the two clear cone-shaped volcano mountains of the island of Salina. From the beach, we continued our walk and reached the northern tip of the island, in an area called the Valley of the Monsters due to the solidified lava creating interesting rock formations in the shape of creatures. From there we had the island of Lipari just a stone's throw away and behind it in the distance the islands of Panarea and Stromboli. We were lucky and the days we spent on Vulcano turned out to be the best weather-wise and with the clearest view. The temperature was in fact a bit lower than the following days but the wind made the sky crisp and blue and with a clear view all around. After enjoying the panoramic point we turned around and headed back towards town. We then stopped at the eastern beach, the Spiaggia delle Acque Calde, with a scenic view of the caldera. Here, despite the quite chilly water, we found a super cool feature which was the many cracks in the rocks below the water from which bubbles of hot vapors rise to the surface. This made the swimming in that area much more enjoyable as it was like being in hot springs but in the open sea, a truly unforgettable experience. After drying out we headed back to our accommodation, walking barefoot the whole way as we had forgotten the flip flops, and once there took a shower and got ready to go out again for dinner. We picked one of the few places open, as it was already off-season. We chose Geco Bar where I had a piece of fish in tomato sauce, capers and olives, while Ania had a caponata. The food was ok but not the best.

The next morning we woke up, had breakfast at the hotel and then planned our hike up the volcano. The way up was slightly hot but nice and not to steep though there were quite a lot of people on the trail, most of which foreigners. In less than an hour we had reached the top from which we could clearly see the huge caldera bowl and the amazing view around us. Due to the slight wind and clear weather, we could literally see everything. This was also probably the only spot of all the islands from where we could see all seven Eolian islands. To the west in the distance the cone-shaped island of Alicudi, then Filicudi, Salina, and Lipari in front, and to the north and east, Panarea and Stromboli. Even crazier was that looking behind, to the south we could also clearly see the imposing figure of the volcano Etna on the Sicilian mainland. After enjoying the beautiful panorama we decided to start heading back down. We tried following what seemed like another trail down the other side we had come up from but it wasn't so clear, was quite rocky, and felt steep so we just took the same way from before. At one point I saw a couple with a child coming down from a part that was interdicted due to being very close to the toxic fumes of the volcano. I yelled at them and told them it was stupid and dangerous they told me that they didn't care and that they had insurance. I told them that it didn't matter if they had insurance or not, first if it is written that it is forbidden you follow the rules and if something happens, despite your insurance, there is still a human being that has to risk their life to pick you or your body up. I told them it was shameful and especially what an example to give to their child. They left without a care and told their child in Polish not to be bothered, Ania heard and told them also in Polish that they should feel ashamed of themselves; at that point, they just hastened their pace and left in a hurry. Despite that stupid behavior, we continued on down the volcano and eventually reached town again. We got to our accommodation, changed, and had lunch which I had actually brought up for us during the hike. Then we headed to the beach and again went to swim where there were warm bubbles in the sea. Then we had a stroll around town seeing the mostly closed shops and restaurants and then relaxed a bit at the Baia Negra beach, enjoying the soothing sounds of the waves while reading a book and seeing the sunset. We headed back to our accommodation put on a sweater and then went out for dinner. We pocked the Ristorante da Vincenzino where I had an expensive but tasty spaghetti with tomatoes and shrimp, overall food on the islands was quite expensive, but probably Vulcano and Panarea had the highest prices.

The following day we woke up quite early as we had to catch a ferry that took us to the furthest and most remote of the seven islands, Alicudi. This was also one of only two islands without cars or vehicles, and the only one without any kind of vehicle and just donkeys to carry stuff up and down the steep mountainside. Once there we felt like in a movie, with the little port, the few houses facing it, very few people, and lots of dogs just hanging about, it felt beautiful and relaxing and a complete change from all the others. We stopped at the only bar right on the port and after getting a refreshment asked if we could leave our backpacks till the afternoon. The lady said ok and we were off to climb the mountain. The streets were made of staircases of stacks of volcanic rocks, walked only on foot on by donkeys. The weather was again amazing and as we headed up any sound, which was barely bearable already down at the port, seemed to fade away into the sounds of the Mediterranean. Once in a while, to catch our breath, we would turn around and see the beauty of the immense calm water below, and in the distance the other islands and the silhouette of the Sicilian coastline. As typical as the other islands, but here even more present due to the island being drier than the others, were the thousands of prickly pears scattered everywhere. Also the nice typical eolian houses, in pastel colors, with open loggias sided by columns facing the sea and flat rooftops. As we went up we passed by the church of the Madonna del Carmelo, a baroque church not seemed to be used very often but with a nice view. Further up another church, San Bartolo, seemingly even more abandoned. Around it, like with the church downhill, there were some houses but no one in sight. The view was getting better and better as we ascended, eventually leading us to a semi-flat area. This was once extensively used by the local population as farmland and grazing land, mostly goats and sheep, but now it was overrun with vegetation and the typical walled terraces left to themselves. From there we reached a nice viewpoint overlooking the western side of the island. Below us, through jagged peaks and steep mountainside was the glimmering of the sea. Due to the rocky terrain and steep side, that part of the island was inaccessible and granted a surreal volcanic view. Back on the trail we then headed further up, this time the way being harder, rockier, and steeper. We eventually reached yet another small flat also used for farming and nearby reached the top of the island, the Filo dell' Arpa, at 675m above sea level. From this point we had an amazing view, with six other islands visible in the distance, just Panarea could not be seen as there was the island of Filicudi in between. Also, the main Sicilian coastline and Etna were visible to the right. We had a break there and ate the lunch we had brought up with us. It was so nice and peaceful just the sounds of nature and no one else there. After that we started heading down, passing by a couple of wild goats just munching on a bush while staring at us. We walked down so many steps, passing by an infinite number of prickly pears, some nice houses, and even blooming flowers, including beautiful purple, red, or pink bougainvillea. At the end of i,t we finally reached the port and our legs and knees were trembling due to the steepness. We still had some time before our ferry so we came back to the bar, sat, and had a drink. Then I also decided to take a swim in the water right next to the port. It was slightly chilly but not terrible and quite refreshing after the hike. Eventually, the ferry arrived, and after getting on we reached the next island, Alicudi, where we would be spending the next couple of days. We reached the port, located on the eastern side of the island, and before heading on we bought a couple of things from the nearby grocer to have later for dinner. Then from there, we started walking up some stairs to reach the settlement known as Liscio. Here was our accommodation, the B&B Gregory where we had a nice room with a balcony overlooking part of the island and sea. We were the only guests there so it was really nice and private. We had dinner and then enjoyed staying on the balcony for a little while.

That night it had rained slightly, but as we got up the sun was shining and already getting warm. We had breakfast by getting some croissants from the only nearby cafè/restaurant and then were off on our hike. As we headed uphill we passed through the hamlet of Val di Chiesa, and then that of Serro di Rando all featuring the typical Eolian houses. The view was great, with the view of the port and the little bay around it enclosed by the promontory of Capo Graziano, on the easternmost point of the island. The view in the distance was not the best, the sky was slightly hazy and not blue like the previous days so we could not see the other islands well. Also above us, we could see the mountaintop covered in clouds. We left the villages behind us and walked along the mountainside, on the eastern side of the island. There were low bushes and many prickly pears. Then we passed through the abandoned hamlet of Zucco Grande. From there we headed upwards and eventually entered an area with many low trees, thick bushes, and a general feeling of being in northern Europe, specifically Scotland rather than Sicily. The trail was a bit overrun and at times quite narrow, with the steep slope next to us, making us try to keep our balance lest we fell. Eventually, we made it out and reached a completely different landscape, the clouds were gone giving way to the sun, and there were no more trees but just very low bushes, a clearly Mediterranean setting. Again we could make out the port and bay with the promontory below, as well as the many villages and hamlets scattered throughout below us. Eventually, after a bit more ascent we reached the top of the island, the Monte Fossa delle Felci, at 774m. The sky was a bit clearer but some light clouds still lingered. However, we could see the island of Alicudi on one side and Salina on the other. We decided to have a break there finding the little shade provided by the low bushes in a beautiful peaceful setting with no one around. Then we decided to head back down the way we came as that was the only trail up to a certain point. As we descended we met the first hikers in days, a couple of middle-aged foreigners. At one point we took a different path and reached the hamlet of Portiello. The trail was now stone ways or partly on road and descending further down we eventually reached the village of Pecorini. Here we followed some staircases leading down to the sea where the hamlet of Pecorini Mare was set. An array of houses close to each other formed a picturesque view, with a small port and the sea. We looked for a place to eat but found that of the only two restaurants, one was closed for the season and the other said it was too late and the kitchen had closed. There were just two couples of tourists and we hoped the owners would still make us something but to no avail. Luckily we found a tiny grocer that was open so we bought a couple of things and then sat on a bench at the port to enjoy our lunch with a view. After eating I decided to take a nice refreshing swim in the sea. Despite it being chilly it felt like both the outside temperatures and the water temperatures were rising, at least compared to the days in Vulcano, or maybe it was just the lack of wind which made it seem so. My goal now had become to swim at least once on every island. After the nice break, we headed back up, and then walked along some stone terraces along the southern side of the island. We then eventually reach the eastern end of the island where the Capo Graziano promontory was set. Here we visited an archaeological site which consisted of a neolithic village from between 2300 and 1500 B.C. It was set on a flat terrace area of the promontory mount, looking over to the rest of the island, and featured foundation rings once belonging to a series of huts. The view was great, with the bay below us, the mountain peak behind it, and in the distance the island of Alicudi. Despite the partly cloudy cover, it was approaching sunset and so a golden light was giving it a beautiful hue. From there we hiked back towards the mountain and then walked up the last part uphill to reach our accommodation. For dinner,r we opted for a nearby place called La Canna where we had a tasty, and relatively inexpensive, dinner. I had pasta with zucchini, tomatoes, and shrimp and Aniad had pasta alla norma.

The following morning the hot sun greeted us again and we had breakfast on the balcony enjoying the view. We then packed our stuff and headed down to the port where we were then able to catch our ferry to the next island, Salina. The island features two conical-shaped mountains, obviously volcanic, and is split into two parts, to the east is the town Santa Marina, and in between the two mountains a plain with three villages, Malfa, Valdichiesa, and Leni. Here was also the village of Rinella with its clustered houses around a port. We landed there and then waited a few minutes to get the bus which took us to the town of Santa Marina and our accommodation. I asked the driver if he could drop us off on the road a bit before the city center so we wouldn't need to walk back up to reach the place. After a few minutes hiking up we reached the B&B Sunrise, with an incredible view and a spacious and really nice room. After leaving our backpacks we then decided to have a walk and hike more intensively in the next days. From the bed and breakfast, we headed down towards town and then followed the main road set between the mountain and the coastline on the eastern part of the island. Despite being on the road there weren't many cars but there was quite a difference as in Alicudi there weren't any and in Filicudi we had seen maybe one or two on the whole hike and just a couple of mopeds. In less than an hour we reached the village of Lingua where we decided to eat lunch. We went to the main square with the nice buildings around, many restaurants, and the beach right in front. We chose a place called Da Alfredo where we had the typical pane cunzato, which on the Eolian islands consists of the bottom part of a large piece of bread with several toppings on it. Mine had tomatoes, onions, olives, and capers, while Ania's had artichoke sauce, tomatoes, and eggplants. To finish off the meal we had a tasty mulberry granita. Then we had a walk around the area, admiring the small lake next to the village which was once the saltpans and is thus now a salty inland lake separated by just a tiny strip from the sea. I then also had a swim in the sea and we relaxed a little while more. At that point, we walked back along the road all the way to Santa Marina where I waited for Ania to get a massage from a spa place in town. After that we had a walk through town, the first proper town on the islands so far, with a main street old buildings, and churches. There were many shops, also souvenir ones and we bought some really cool ceramic magnets. We visited the main church of Maria Santissima Addolorata, dating to the end of the 19th century in a neoclassical style, and also the church of Santa Marina, in a beautiful baroque style between the 17th and 18th centuries. We then continued our stroll through town and then headed back up to our accommodation buying some stuff to take with us on the hike the following day. We had a shower and changed and then headed back into town for dinner. We opted for Trattoria Cucinotta where I had an amazing albacore in an almond sauce and Ania had a parmigiana di melanzane with a side salad. Following a night stroll around town we then headed up to watch some TV before sleeping.

The next day was a bit cloudy in the morning but we still had an amazing view while having breakfast with the island of Lipari on one side and Panarea and Stromboli on the other. After eating we started our hike by heading directly uphill from the accommodation following one of the main trails up the mountainside. The clouds helped with the heat and made the ascent more bearable. Along the way, we saw a super cool lava flow that formed a canyon and the rock had different hues of red and black. Nearby we also visited some caves, known as Saracen Caves, they were dug into the tuff as a hiding place against Saracen raids, some of which also still held carvings and votive signs. As we went further up the sun was starting to shine between the clouds. We then eventually reached a forest, the only proper forest so far, with tall cedar and pine trees, and also many deciduous trees. It helped a lot to walk through the forest for the heat and made the last way up easier. After some more hiking we eventually reached the top of the mountain, the Monte Fossa delle Felci, named like the tip of the island of Filicudi. At 962m it is the highest point of the island and also the highest peak of all the Eolian islands. Unlike in the other two islands, there were some people here, a group of Germans and an Italian couple. Soon they left though and so we sat on one of the benches and enjoyed our lunch in peace and quiet. From the peak, we then reached a panoramic point on the western side of the mountain from where had an amazing view of the island's other peak, so perfectly conically shaped. We descended down that part of the mountain after several turns down through the forest protected from the sun we came out to the town of Leni. From there we continued on and descended to Rinella, the port village we had landed on first. We then stopped at a place called Pa.Pe.Ro where we had a tasty lunch. They had a kind of gastronomy where you could pick out dishes to be then eaten at the table. I had squit with tomatoes, some fish balls with onions, an interesting and tasty salad made of cooked fennel, onion, and pine nuts, and then a salty cake, while Ania had a vegetable lasagna and a caponata. For dessert, we then shared a mulberry granita. The rest of the afternoon we then spent at the lovely beach next to the port, reading a book while lying in the shade of one of the docked boats on the beach. I then had a couple of swims and enjoyed some sun tanning. From the beach, we could also admire the islands of Lipari and Vulcano, the latter with the clear large form of its caldera. After a while, we took a bus that brought us back to Santa Marina and then had a shower and change of clothes before heading out for dinner. This time we picked Casa Lo Schiavo which had tasty dishes, I had pasta with shrimp, while Ania had pasta alla norma with a side salad, but my dish was a bit too tiny.

The next day we woke up early and enjoyed a gorgeous sunrise while having our breakfast on the terrace. We then descended into town, walked along the semi-desert street, and reached the bus stop where we caught our ride that took us across the island to the small village of Pollara, on the western side of the island. We walked around the hamlet and visited a semi-abandoned house that was featured in the movie Il Postino from 1994 as the house of poet Pablo Neruda. It overlooks the bay and has a beautiful view, with Filicudi and Alicudi in the distance. From Pollara, we then started the ascent following the main road and reaching a panoramic point next to what seemed like an old lighthouse. From there we finally joined a trail that headed up the mountainside. We walked through thick bushes and low trees that helped us cover from the strong sun. Among the trees the majority were strawberry trees, the national tree of Italy, which gave really tasty fruits. We ate quite a lot of them and of course, we then had too much. Nevertheless, we continued uphill pausing once in a while to admire the beautiful view below us, with the flat plateau where the town of Malfa was set between the two mountains and the sea. Eventually, we reached the top of the Monte dei Porri, at 886m, from where we had an amazing view. To one side the island of Alicudi and Filicudi, to the other, the island's other peak, Monte Fossa delle Felci, and the islands of Panarea, Stromboli, Lipari, and Vulcano. This, together with Vulcano, was the only other spot on the Eolian islands where you could see all seven islands. After enjoying the view we had a quick break and then started our descent. We headed down the other side of the mountain and reached the plain where Valdichiesa is set. We then walked up to the sanctuary of the Madonna del Terzito, dating to 1630 but refurbished in the following centuries. With its baroque appearance, yellow pastel color, small colorful flags hanging and festooned around it, and the green conically shaped volcano behind it, it felt like we were in Mexico. We then followed a trail behind it keeping below the mountain and heading around it. After reaching a panoramic point we then took a steep way that brought us down to the town of Malfa. Here we luckily found an open restaurant, A' Lumeredda, where I had a mixed fried fish and Ania had a mixed salad. We had a short walk around town, seeing the church of the Immacolata, with its neoclassical interior, and the small square in front of it sisde by old buildings and with a great view of the mountain. We then walked up to the main road and followed it passing by some nice vineyards, mainly Malvasia, the local white, and heading around the mountain to eventually get back to Santa Marina and our accommodation. For dinner, we just grabbed a couple of things from the nearby grocer and then headed up to eat on the terrace of our room.

The following day after another gorgeous sunrise we had our last breakfast in Salina and then walked down to the port to catch the ferry. The sky was blue and clear and the visibility was great again so much so we could see Etna on the Sicilian mainland again. The ferry took us to the next island, Panarea, where we were only able to check in the afternoon so we first brought our bags to a partner hotel. They offered us also breakfast which we took advantage of, getting some fruit and tea and coffee. Then we were off to explore a bit in the meantime, heading to the northern part of the island. Panarea is among the smallest of the Eolian islands, probably slightly larger than Alicudi but with not as much difference in altitude so it feels much smaller. The town is spread over the majority of the island's eastern part and the houses here are still typical Eolian but mostly white giving it a picturesque view. It is considered the VIP island but as it was off-season there weren't many people. We noticed it actually got really crowded from right before lunchtime to early afternoon from all the day trippers on boats, mostly German and Russians, but then before and after that, it felt so peaceful and nice. We walked through the port and the old town and then reached the north side where the Calcara beach was located. It was just the two of us and the interesting feature of the beach was that there were several holes scattered around from which hot air came from the magmatic activity below. I obviously had a swim in the sea there and then dried out in the sun. In front of the beach across the water was the small rocky island of Basiluzzo and behind the imposing conical shape of the Stromboli volcano. After a while there we then headed back to town and were able to check in our accommodation, Casa Ambra. It was a lovely mini apartment, with room, kitchen, and bathroom built partly in the rock and with an incredible terrace having an amazing view. We found a grocer nearby and grabbed some stuff to eat and enjoy on the terrace. Then we headed to the port to get an ice cream and found the port full of people, quite a difference compared to the morning. We then explored the rest of town entering the church of San Pietro, built in a neoclassical style at the end of the 19th century. We continued on following the main street heading around the island and through the settlement. Here no cars are allowed but everyone moves in either electric mopeds (so as not to disturb with its sound) or electric golf carts. The island is relatively small so we easily got around on foot. Heading to the southern end of the island we reached the Cala Zimmari beach, where there were quite a few people at the only local beach bar. This beach was also the only beach we found throughout the Eolian islands with proper sand rather than rocks or lavic sand. I took a nice swim, the water was slightly cold, but crystal clear, shallow, and beautiful, and then relaxed a bit in the sun. Then I decided to head to see the nearby viewpoint. I was barefoot but still managed to walk on the rocky path. At the top, I had a great view of the beach and then nearby spotted another beach, Cala Junco, with a promontory on which a neolithic village once stood. Like the one in Filicudi, this too had a series of foundation rings of what were once huts. The water around the promontory was amazing, with the sun glimmering over it it had beautiful hues of blue and green, probably the most scenic of all the Eolian islands. There were also several yachts anchored not too far from the coast signaling the island's VIP status even off-season. After exploring a bit the area I headed back to Ania and relaxed a bit more on the beach. The sun was approaching sunset so I convinced Ania to come and see it from the aforementioned promontory. It was really nice and there was just the two of us there. We then walked back to the beach and back to town. We had a wander through the port and it was now literally empty of people and quite nice and relaxing. Then we sat on the terrace and enjoyed the view as the last light of the day was gone. From the distance we could see a puff of smoke coming out of Stromboli in the distance and as it got darker even managed to see the glimmer of red and orange from the lava pyroclasms. For dinner, we again got some things from the grocer and enjoyed it on the terrace.

In the morning we woke up not too early and had breakfast on the terrace. Then we got ready and started our longer hike. We walked through town and then started heading uphill. We passed some really cool spots from where we could admire the jagged and rocky northern side of the island. Eventually not long after we reached the top of the island, Punta del Corvo, at just 421m, the lowest of the peaks. The view from the top was still spectacular, with Stromboli to one side, Salina and Filicudi to another, and Lipari, Vulcano, and the Sicilian coastline to another. Just Alicudi was not visible, covered by Salina. From the peak we then descended down the southern side of the mountain, passing a typical Mediterranean landscape, low bushes and quite dry and with several prickly pears along the way. after some hiking down we eventually reached the beach of Cala Junco where we stopped for a beak. There were quite a few people there this time but I went to swim in its beautiful crystal clear waters. After the break we then continued on the walk and reached town once again, making a complete circle around the island. We got some food and again ate on the terrace. There were quite some people on the island, and people would just stop by our terrace and take pictures despite us being there to relax. It was mostly Asians or Russians, so I then hung a towel across two trees to just block the view from the street and we weren't bothered anymore. We spent the rest of the afternoon there to relax and then decided to head back to Cala Junco for the sunset. Again there were just the two of us and two yachts anchored a couple hundred meters off. It was really nice and relaxing and worth the walk there. Eventually, we headed back to town and again got some stuff to eat and enjoy a last dinner on the island.

The following day we had our last breakfast and then took the ferry to the next island, Stromboli. The sky was a bit cloudy and hazy that day, the temperatures had in fact risen slightly creating a bit of mugginess. Once on the island we were able to check in and were shown to our accommodation, a small house right by the beach. After unpacking I decided to take a swim and then walked along the beach right below the immense volcano. After showing and changing we then headed up into town to explore a little and visit the main church, San Vincenzo Ferreri, built in a baroque style and located on the highest spot in town and overlooking a lovely square. For lunch, we stopped right in front at the Ingrid cafè where we had a drink and an arancino to eat. After that, we continued walking around the rest of the settlements scattered one next to the other, and then came back to the accommodation. I had another swim, then we relaxed a little, and eventually, we headed back up to the Magmatrek office where we had organized a tour to head up to visit the Stromboli volcano. One can only go alone to 100m and with a guide up to 400m. Once you could go up to the top of the caldera at 900m but as a result of strong volcano activity and paroxysmal explosions in 2019 the municipality barred access to the summit and limited visits to the aforementioned elevations. The problem I had with the tour was that when I had called to book a tour I was asked which language I preferred. I told Italian but once I got there I saw I was put with the French group and so the guide started to talk in French. Out of 20 people, there was only Ania and I and another Swiss couple who weren't French. I asked the guide if he was planning to also speak Italian. He asked that if I really wanted to he could but it would slow down the explanations. At that point, I was obviously bothered and told them they could've told me beforehand. As we were still four non-french speakers he gave the explanation in French and then English but obviously, due to the fact we were also hiking it he wasn't able to translate everything, and lots of info got lost in one or the other translation. As we walked I stayed close to him and asked him questions in Italian or English at least to get some more info, but I still felt it was a bit dumb. In addition, many of the other French tourists were loud and slow so it didn't turn out so well. As we climbed up we eventually reached the first viewpoint and all negative opinions I had of the tour vanished. In fact, we were now faced, despite the distance, with the beautiful sight of the magma bursts coming out from one of the lesser craters. As it got darker the experience was even more wholesome and we admired enthusiastically each and every puff of smoke, every lava sputter, and the once-in-a-while loud booms followed by a tall pyroclastic jet. The only issue was the loudness of the French which oftentimes was annoying as we waited for the sounds of the volcano right before the eruptions. All around us, there were actually many many groups, and we could see them even more clearly as we descended down and saw the many headlights in a line trailing down the mountain. I was quite surprised as I didn't expect there to be so many people off-season. Once back in town, the group broke up each going in their own direction and we stopped to grab a pizza at Da Luciano which we took and then ate at the accommodation.

The next day we had the included breakfast in the partner hotel and we had then a slow morning before eventually getting the ferry that took us to the last island, Lipari. Once there we got off the boat and walked to the nearby old town. The difference was stark, this was a proper city, with many cars, some traffic, and many more people than any of the other islands. However, the city center still felt calm, with barely any tourists or locals around. We walked along the main street and headed towards our accommodation, the B&B Faraglione. The room was nice and spacious and the building had a rooftop terrace from where we could admire a nice view of the city. After checking in and dropping our bags we headed back out to look for a place to eat. We stopped for lunch and I had a pane cunzato with mortadella and pistachio cream while Ania had a mixed salad. After that, we decided to have a walk all the way to the northern part of the island. We followed the coastline of the eastern part of Lipari, walking along a nice waterfront where a small bay is set right next to the town. Then we reached a promontory and here a tunnel was built to get to the other side without having to go above it. Shortly after we reached another bay where the town of Canneto is set. It follows the coastline and is backed by hills. It had a large and really long beach with no one around so we continued following the nice beachfront promenade. Halfway along the beach, we stopped to visit the Basilica of San Cristoforo, originally dating to the 16th century but rebuilt in its current neoclassical style at the end of the 19th century. Continuing on we reached the northern end of the beach, and here right below a rocky cliff with houses built on top I decided to have a quick swim before continuing on. The waters were not so cold and nice and crystal clear. However, as I swam close to some rocks I felt a sharp sting on my foot and quickly got out. As I discovered shortly after a whole whitish blot spread across the top of my foot, the result of a jellyfish sting. I went to a place nearby asking for some vinegar but they didn't have any so I went then to the beach bar where they luckily had some aloe which they gladly gave me. I spread some on the wound and then left the aloe leaf on it to then cover it with my sock. I put back my shoes and it did still hurt for quite a while but I could still walk fine. From the beach, we started heading uphill and reached the main road running along the coastline. There was barely any traffic and we followed it for a while admiring the views. At one point we reached an area deeply excavated to extract pumice, a white-colored volcanic rock that consists of extremely vesicular rough-textured volcanic glass. This used to be one of, if not the main industry of the island, and the quarries and factories built in that part functioned well into recent times, having been closed only in 2007. Nowadays they look abandoned and perilous. Walking further we passed by Porticello, the little village built next to the quarries. We had reached the northeastern tip of the island and from there we continued westward along the coast. At one point we came upon the first houses of the town of Acquacalda, but instead of going down to its beach, we took a trail that headed towards the interior of the island and uphill. Along the way, I was fascinated to find so much obsidian. Huge rocks or chunks or smaller pieces, it was amazing to be able to find so much and so easily. The island is in fact, along with a few others, one of the main places to find this shiny volcanic rock. I picked up several pieces along the way and decided to make an accurate selection at the B&B to take with me. From this part of the island, we could also see the nearby island of Salina and in the distance, Filicudi. Unfortunately, though it was starting to become a bit hazy and so the view wasn't as good as in the other days. We climbed along a ridgeline seeing another large pomice quarry, the one of Acquacalda. Eventually, continuing upwards through the very warm afternoon we reached the top of the Monte Pilato, at 476m. The way up was not super easy as the mountain is made up of mostly pomice and clay and thus quite slippery with many canyons and trenches dug out by water. Once at the top, after admiring the view we tried going down what I thought was a trail on my app. However, the way was very steep and slippery, not marked at al,l and through thick bushes. I saw we were proceeding very slowly and it felt it was becoming even steeper and harder so I suggested we go back up and take the longer easier way. We eventually got down the mountain and walked through the hamlet of Lami just as the sun was setting. We made it back to Canneto by nightfall and thus at least had the city lights to help us walk back to Lipari because on the mountains it would've been quite hard by night. Once back at the B&B, we had a shower and then headed out for dinner choosing a place called Trattoria Del Vicolo, where I had albacore and Ania had a pumpkin risotto and a side salad. After dinner, we had a stroll around town and headed to sleep.

The next morning we woke up early and had breakfast included with our accommodation in a bar in Piazza Marina Corta, a lovely small square right by the sea. We then walked over to the port and caught a bus that took us uphill to the village of Pianoconte. Here we started our trail by heading up to Monte Sant'Angelo, at 594m. Again the day was hazy and the visibility quite low due to the fact that the temperatures had risen quite a lot and the air become sultry. From the peak, we then followed the trail along a ridgeline and through a thick forest until we went further uphill to reach Monte Chirica, Lipari's highest peak at 602m. We descended the mount on the opposite side and reached the hamlet of Quattropani where we stopped to visit the sanctuary of Maria Santissima della Catena, built between the 16th and 17th centuries on a terraced outcrop overlooking the island of Salina nearby. From there we descended through the hamlet and eventually reached a trail heading down the hillside towards the coast on the western side of the island. The area was different from the rest of the island, drier, rockier, and with many prickly pears and low bushes. We followed the trail and met a group of old Germans coming from the opposite side. Then for the rest of the way it was just us, and the sounds of nature and the sea to our right. Despite the haze, we still had great views and enjoyed the hike. After some walking, we eventually reached a viewpoint where there was a picnic table at which we sat to have our lunch. We had a break and then continued on, going uphill once again. Shortly after we passed the Terme di San Calogero, a 19th-century thermal spa building, located on a hot spring known since ancient times. The building has been closed since 1975 and it was turned into a museum, though when we passed it didn't look open. Continuing upwards we then reached the village of Pianoconte and then a nice viewpoint from where we could admire the island of Vulcano. At one point we had to descend slightly and then head back up another hill and follow a trail along the coastline right below Monte Guardia. Finally, we reached the southeastern part of the island, where the hamlet of San Salvatore is set. From here we had a nice view of Lipari and its old town, with its castle perched atop a rocky plateau smack in the town center right next to the sea. Here we then reached the Geophysical Observatory from where there was a nice viewpoint towards Vulcano. A trail then led downhill towards the sea, granting us great views. There was still some haze but it had improved since the morning. We then followed the coastline turning northwards and walked past some beautiful villas. We eventually got back to Lipari for a shower and a bit of relaxing. For dinner, we decided to opt for a place near our accommodation, A Sartania, where I had a huge and delicious pasta with tomato sauce and prawns, while Ania had potatoes, green beans, and a side salad. After dinner, we then had a walk around town before heading to sleep.

The morning after we woke up to a cloudy day so it was time to finally properly visit the old town of Lipari. We had breakfast in Marina Corta and then visited the small church, Chiesa delle Anime del Purgatorio, located on a small peninsula part of the small pier. The church was most probably built around the 13th century but had to be rebuilt in the 16th century following the destructions of the Ottoman corsairs. Inside was a nice nativity scene with the models of the buildings of this part of town as well as many local people as I was told by the lady there. Across the pier we then visited the church of San Giuseppe, also rebuilt in its current baroque form after the corsairs' attacks. From the harbor square, we then followed a large street heading up sided by nice buildings full of souvenir or artisanal shops. Then going up a staircase we entered the castle complex and reached the cathedral which stood at its center and highest spot. The whole area has an extremely long history, with traces of human habitation since 4000 BC. After the Greeks, the Romans, and the Byzantines a castle was then built by the Normans, later modified by the Aragonese. The structure now is that of a 16th century modern fortress and inside stand many important and historical buildings. The cathedral that we then visited was begun most probably around the 12th century but its current baroque form dates from its refurbishment in the 16th and 17th centuries. Once inside we marveled at its white naves with a beautifully frescoed ceiling. Among the many beautiful altars and paintings was a silver statue of Saint Bartholomew from the 18th century as it was said the saint's body was transported to the island. Another highlight of the Cathedral was the beautiful cloister, the only surviving part of the complex from the early medieval times. The cloister was in fact built during the Norman period in 1131 and features beautifully preserved decorated columns and capitals some of which even reutilized ancient Greek and Roman ones. After visiting the cathedral we headed out and walked around the castle complex, passing by the church of the Immacolata, an imposing baroque and rococo church. Around it were several open areas with small archaeological sites all dating to different periods; there were Neolithic, bronze age, Greek, Roman, and medieval layers. Next to it was another church, that of Maria Santissima Addolorata built in a baroque style, but unfortunately closed like the one nearby. At the northern end of the castle, we then reached the ticket office where we bought a ticket to visit the few museums in the area. We started out with the first one located right next to the cathedral and detailing the prehistory and foundation of the city. There were many interesting objects including funerary urns, vases, metal pieces and jewelry, and so forth. We moved to another building where there was the second museum this time on the prehistory of the other six Eolian islands. After that, we moved on to admire the nice view from the castle battlements on the southern side. In this part were also numerous stone sarcophagi coming from the Greek and Roman necropolis located on the western side of the city. Also nearby was the church of Maria Santissima delle Grazie also baroque but also closed. At that point, as the ticket was valid all day we decided to head down to town and eat something. We exited the castle's main side, the northern, with the older parts and gates. We exited into Piazza Mazzini and passed in front of the town hall, hosted inside the former convent of the Order of Friars Minor Observant. Next to it was still the active church of St. Anthony of Padua built in a nice early baroque form. Moving down we reached the main street and decided to eat some arancini for a quick lunch. Then we headed back up to the castle hill and continued our visit to the museums. Next up was the building which hosted exhibits on the Greek and Roman history of the city, with tombstones, vases, everyday objects, and a large section on naval transport with many amphoras. After that, the next museum was on obsidian, hosted inside the former church of Santa Caterina. Finally, our visit concluded with the former prisons, used well until 1915. From the castle, we then descended into town and walked to the western part where we saw the ruins of the ancient Greek walls and necropolis as well as the Roman urban center, temple, and baths. After that, we did a nice tour round the city and we decided to head to the supermarket to grab some things to eat at B&B's terrace.

The next day, our last on the island, we woke up as it was raining but it soon stopped so we still decided to go for a walk. Again we walked along the coast all the way to Canneto. The temperature was pleasant and despite the clouds, it was nice to be out. As we headed back to Lipari the clouds started thinning and a few specs of sunlight peering through. Not far from the city along the seafront, we stopped to eat lunch at Osteria San Bartolo, where I had pasta with fish and Ania got a parmigiana. We had one last walk through town and eventually got the ferry that brought us to Milazzo, on the Sicilian mainland. Once we got off the ferry we started heading towards the old town on foot. Along the way, we found a nice ice cream shop, Siké, where we goth bought one to eat on the way. We kindly asked if we could leave our backpacks there and come later to pick them up to which they obliged. Then we walked on and eventually reached the old town. We started walking uphill passing many historic buildings and houses yet many looked run down. We first passed by the sanctuary of San Francesco da Paola, a nice baroque building from the early 17th century with a monumental staircase facing the sea. Further on was another baroque church, that of Santissimo Salvatore, but unfortunately closed. A picturesque street then led further up ending where the castle is located. The entrance required a ticket but as I saw also there was a wedding reception taking place I thought we wouldn't be able to visit it completely so decided to skip it. The castle is pretty large, extending over the whole hilltop, consisting of a whole citadel complex with two sets of walls, a keep, the old cathedral, a monastery, and an archaeological site made up of ruins from the neolithic, ancient Greek, ancient Roman, and medieval periods. Outside the castle though we found a nice panoramic spot, next to a 17th-century small fort. Here we had a great view of the castle complex as well as an amazing view of the two sides of the sea visible from Milazzo. In fact the town is set on a promontory jutting out into the water with the sea to the east and west. The lowering sun also made it able to see well the Eolian islands in the distance. From the place we then walked through the old town and down a staircase to the shorefront. We walked along it admiring the nice view and past some historic palaces with decorated facades. Then we reached the more modern part where the new cathedral was built in 1951. We then concluded the city's visit with the church of San Giacomo built in the 15th century but with an interior refurbished in the baroque style. We then headed back to the ice cream shop, thanked the workers, and got our backpacks back. We then walked back towards the port from where we then got a bus that eventually took us to the city of Messina. We checked in the accommodation, the Elysium B&B, and then headed out looking for a place to eat. We ended up choosing a restaurant called M'inchìa! right nearby, where I had a tasty stake with dried tomatoes and Ania had a risotto. Then we went for a walk around town but got caught in torrential rain so we quickly ran back to the accommodation.

The following morning after breakfast we headed out into a beautiful sunny day and decided to visit the city. Like Reggio Calabria, on the other side of the strait, the city had been nearly completely destroyed during the 1908 earthquake so barely anything old was left standing. We first passed by the former church of Santa Maria Alemanna, believed to have been founded by the Teutonic Knights in the 13th century, and in a Sicilian gothic style and one of the few buildings to survive unscathed the earthquake. Nearby we passed the 17th-century baroque church of Sant'Elia but found it closed so continued on. We walked along the grid plan of the city, a consequence of the reconstruction following the earthquake, We reached another church, this time open, but much more modern, the Basilica of Saint Anthony of Padua, dating to the 1920s. Next up were some more modern churches, that of Santa Maria dello Spirito Santo, richly decorated, the sanctuary of Santa Maria del Carmine with a large cupola and octagonal plant, and the neoclassical co-cathedral of the Santissimo Salvatore. Not far from there we then reached the main square, Piazza del Duomo, which we had just briefly seen the night before under the rain. Here, in the center of the square was the Fontana di Orione, a beautiful monumental fountain built in 1547. Next to it was the Cathedral which we then visited. Originally a Norman church dating to the 12th century, it was damaged in two earthquakes, those of 1638, and 1783, and then destroyed in the devastating one of 1908. Following the reconstruction of the 1920s, in which it was restored to its original appearance it suffered another devastating blow when it was bombed in WWII. Among the surviving parts are the Gothic portals on the facade, some old burial monuments inside, and the only original surviving 14th-century mosaics on the left apse. Despite the rest being rebuilt it was still quite impressive to visit and there were quite some tourists as well. Once outside the cathedral we then admired its 90m high bell tower, featuring the largest and most complex mechanical and astronomical clock in the world made in Strasbourg in 1933, to replace the destroyed medieval one. From there we moved on and passed the 16th century to monument to Don Giovanni of Austria, erected on the occasion of the Battle of Lepanto. In front of it was the peculiar church of the Santissima Annunziata dei Catalani, a 12th and 13th centuries Norman church with Arabian and Byzantine influences. Its name derives from merchants from Catalonia who established a presence in Messina in the 16th century. The church survived unscathed the 1908 earthquake and its apse is a beautiful example of its architectural style. After visiting its simple yet picturesque interior we headed out and passed another monument, the Quattro Fontane, four baroque fountains at the corners of two streets crossing, though only two elements of the four-cornered complex survive today after the earthquake damage, the other two being preserved in the local museum. We walked further north passing by the imposing building of the town hall, Palazzo Zanca, and then visited the neoclassical church of Sant'Antonio Abate. Behind it was the small church of San Tommaso, a pre-norman church with a mix of Byzantine and Arabian styles. Next up we saw the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele III, a shopping mall from 1929 very similar to those in Milan and Naples. From there we then headed uphill and up a scenic staircase with colorful artistic statues. Once at the top, we reached the sanctuary of Santa Maria di Montalto, rebuilt in 1928. Its highlight was the large terrace in front of it which granted an amazing view of the city, the seaside, and the coast of Calabria across. Keeping uphill we walked and reached another great viewpoint right below the Sacrario di Cristo Re, a shrine dating to medieval times, later rebuilt in a grandiose baroque structure which was rebuilt after the earthquake. Next to it is a surviving 12th-century hexagonal tower on top of which is a bell from 1935, and the third largest in Italy. From that point, we walked downhill and reached the church of San Francesco, the second-largest in the city, built in a Gothic style in the 13th century and with most of its furnishings inside the regional museum. We continued further north and reached the Porta Grazi, the 17th-century monumental gate to the citadel, set in its current location close to a park in 1961. Turning around we then walked back towards the city center stopping by to admire the Neptune fountain, built in 1557, along the way. We then tried to walk fast in order to get to the Piazza Duomo. Once there we still managed to see the last couple of minutes of the Cathedral's astronomical clock in action, with the various statues moving to the sound of Schubert's Ave Maria. After the show, with the square packed with people admiring it, we decided to grab some lunch. We picked a place nearby Piccolino Pasta Bar where I had a pasta carbonara and Ania had pasta with eggplant. We then had one last stroll around town and headed back to the B&B to grab our backpacks and leave. We reached the nearby ferry terminal and took the ride into Reggio Calabria across the strait. Once there we still had some time so we stopped at a supermarket to grab some food to take with us home. We then took the local bus, reached the airport, and eventually got our plan back to Berlin.