Monday, January 13, 2025

Villa dei Vescovi and Valbona Castle (05/05/2024)

On a sunny day, we decided to head to the Euganean Hills and visit some sites. Our first stop was the Villa dei Vescovi, a Renaissance-style, rural palatial home initially built for the archbishops of Padua and now owned by the Fondo Ambiente Italiano (FAI). Once we had found parking nearby we headed inside after paying the ticket. As it's part of the monuments managed by FAI both my brother and mom had their cards granting them access while for me they bought another yearly pass. We entered the beautiful garden and from there admired the building in front of us. The villa was erected between 1535 and1542 by the architect Giovanni Maria Falconetto as a summer residence for Padua's bishops but it is believed there was some intervention by the famous Giulio Romano as well. The building initially contained a rectangular courtyard with two wings and an open loggia on the ground floor, while the piano nobile had an open loggia looking down to the valley. In the second half of the eighteenth century, the distribution of the interior spaces of the piano nobile was changed: the inner court was closed and four side rooms with a central hall were created according to the classic floor plan of the later Venetian villas. The interior was frescoed in late 1543 by the Flemish painter Lambert Sustris. From the Italian-style garden in the back, we then went around the main building and headed down the valley where the rest of the villa's park is set. Here are many rows of vineyards which give the site an even more idyllic view. Back at the villa we entered it and started exploring the rooms at the piano nobile. We first walked through the eastern loggia with its beautiful frescoes and an amazing view of the countryside around. From the loggia, we then went to the hall which was a result of the 18th-century refurbishment as it replaced the central courtyard and featured stuccoes instead of frescoes. Next up were the antechamber and bishop's chamber, two rooms set up using some of the furnishings already present in the villa with the aim of evoking the domestic environments of the bishop's domus. The next room was the dining room, originally two separate rooms it was then turned into its current purpose by the Olcese family who owned the villa in the 20th century. It features large parts of surviving frescoes representing the myth of Orpheus and the myth of Apollo and Marsia. From the room, we walked over to the western loggia and after admiring its frescoes and beautiful view we entered another small room. The putto's room featured beautiful illusionistic frescoes on marine horizons and landscapes with ruins, country houses, and small figures and obviously the fresco of a putto in the bottom left corner as a foreground contrast to the rest of the views. Next up was the larger ancient figures room, with the most intact wall decorations in the villa. There are figures in ancient costumes and oratorical poses as well as the upper frieze featuring trophies, vases, armor and weapons, and landscapes. Next door were the fireplace room and the study, originally combined into a single space. It featured furniture used by the Olcese family but the frescoes were those from the 16th century featuring faux-tapestries motifs and festons held by naked figures, birds, and other things. Finally to complete the round were the room of the pisan lions and the bathroom. The name is due to the rampant lions appearing repeatedly on the upper part of the wall and in the coat of arms of the Pisani family, whose member Bishop Francesco Pisani commissioned the construction of the villa. Along the walls are more frescoes of landscapes, faux niches with statues, and trophies, and on the frieze more garlands and sacrificial scenes and scenes with divinities. The bathroom features old furniture which the Olcese family used including two commodes from the 18th century. After the visit to the villa, it was time for lunch. We headed to the Trattoria Pizzeria Liviana, right across the gardens, and there I had a tasty bigoli with duck sauce. Heading back to the car we then drove across the hills and reached the Valbona Castle.  This mighty medieval fortress dominates the plain west of Mount Lozzo, one of the volcanic hills of the Euganean hills, and was probably erected in the 13th century. Rather than an actual castle with a court, this was a fort designed to house a garrison of ten or twelve armed men: four knights, eight foot soldiers with a captain, and a certain number of servants for the normal operation of the structure. Today the scenic castle with its hexagonal towers, main tower in the center, and crenellated walls all around, represents one of the best-preserved structures in the area. There is now a restaurant inside and once we arrived we also saw a small gathering of stalls and music was set in the garden surrounding it. To our surprise we also saw a group of musicians singing country music, doing line dancing, and with a flag of the confederate states of the United States of America. After that surprise, we entered the castle and checked out the small inner courtyard. We then headed upstairs to the battlements to admire the nice view of the surrounding landscape. Then back down we circled the structure and admired it from the west side where it even features a drawbridge and was a great scenic spot. It was then time to go so after reaching the car we eventually drove home. 

Entrance to Villa dei Vescovi

The annex building

View of the Villa from its garden

A bedroom of the villa

The dining room

The main building

The loggia

Landscape near Lozzo Atestino

The Valbona Castle

The castle's keep

View from the top of the keep

View of the castle


Wednesday, January 1, 2025

Bicycle and canoeing trip around Comacchio (04/05/2024)

For my bachelor party, my brother had organized a trip to Comacchio where we would be doing some cycling and then canoeing. In the end, there were just three of us, my friend Alessandro, my brother, and me. After taking the car we drove southwards towards our destination and on the way stopped briefly to take a picture of the Villa Nani-Mocenigo in Canda. Built during the 16th century by either Vincenzo Scamozzi or Baldassare Longhena, two famous architects of the time, it then received its current southern facade in the 17th century. However, today the villa is abandoned, and that is quite a shame too. After some driving we reached Comacchio and immediately the other two went to buy a pack of beers for me to drink throughout the day. We then walked over the town's main monument, the Trepponti Bridge, consisting of actually five bridges together. On the other side, we then reached the bicycle rental shop where we managed to get bicycles for the three of us. We left the town and headed on the path along the canal that led us towards the sea and the town of Porto Garibaldi. Once there we crossed over the canal and continued southwards until we reached Lido degli Estensi a seaside town like many along this part of the Adriatic. Here, my task was to take a swim naked in the sea. The water was still quite cold and luckily there weren't many people around. I then downed my first beer and we got back on the bicycles to continued further. We passed another of the seven beach towns of Comacchio, the Lido di Spina, and then reached a nice section of path that went along a canal and small lagoons. Here we came across a flock of flamingoes, some of them quite pink too. We took several pictures and then continued onwards. We eventually reached the Valli di Comacchio, a series of contiguous brackish lagoons situated south of the city and once expanding six times what they are today. Comprising nowadays of four basins, they were once formed around the tenth century due to subsidence of the soil and silting of the coastal zone. Back then they featured fresh water from the recurrent flooding of the rivers but from the sixteenth century on, they gradually were filled with seawater resulting in the modern appearance of brackish water-filled basins. Famous for being the site of fishing eel today they are but a fraction of what they once were. We followed a beautiful path that shot straight through the major lagoon, called the Angels' Embankment. It was like cycling right into the sea with water all around us and just this tiny path ahead and behind us. There were several cyclists coming from both directions as well as the occasional hikers. One thing that we weren't prepared for was the millions of gnats flying around the area. It was impossible to speak or even open the mouth and even with sunglasses on we were getting thousands of them in the face as we went. Reaching over halfway down the path and finding ourselves in the middle of the huge lagoon we then decided to head back as we were still planning to have lunch somewhere and then later go canoeing. After downing my second beer, on the way back, we stopped once more to see the flamingoes and then got back to Lido degli Estensi. Here we stopped at the Friggitoria Treponti and had a large and delicious mixed fried seafood dish and down my third beer. Once full we got back on the bicycles and continued on this time bordering the lagoon to the north. We passed the old saltworks, once a thriving business in the area, and spotted more flamingoes. Then we cycled past the place where we would need to meet for the boat ride but still had to go all the way back to Comacchio to leave the bicycles. Once there, we got in the car and drove to the starting point where we met up with our group. Our guide showed us the basics and then let us sit in our canoes. There were the three of us in one, plus another group of three, and then another three plus the guide. He told us the history of the basins and then we canoed through the one directly south of the city, the Valle Fattibello. We passed through a beautiful area admiring different birds including more flamingoes. Then he showed us the canal that connects the lagoon to the sea and where people still come to use the fishing lodges mounted on poles in the water set along the bank in order to fish and eat directly there. He also showed us how a type of crab, the blue crab, has been menacing the ecosystem of northwestern Italy as it proliferates very quickly and eats all clams, mussels, and smaller local crabs. Having come from other seas, it has no predators but humans so it is hard to eradicate. A little further down the canal, I first downed my fourth and last beer, and we disembarked from our canoes and went in the Agriturismo La Vallesina where our guide had arranged an apertivio. We had as much wine as we wanted plus bread, fries, and a large platter of mixed fried seafood. I was a bit tipsy by then, with four beers, and at least three glasses of wine. But that was still enjoyable, and back on the canoe, we headed back to the starting point, taking our slow time. Our guide told us more about the place and then let us paddle silently telling us to enjoy the silence and beauty around us. That was a really nice moment and really bliss. We also managed to see the beginning of the sunrise before finally disembarking. On our way back home I thought that my brother had chosen well and it ended up being a really great day.

Villa Nani-Mocenigo in Canda

The Trepponti bridge in Comacchio

The beach near Comacchio

The Angels' Embankment

Flamingos along the way

A close up of the flamingos

A view of the landscape

Canoeing through the lagoon

Canoeing into sunset

Sunset over the lagoon