Friday, April 11, 2025

Lindow (29/06/2024)

 On a sunny day, Caroline, Ania, and I decided to do a day trip north of Berlin. We met up at Berlin's main station and from there headed on to reach the town of Lindow. An Instagram acquaintance of mine lives there so I decided to contact him and meet up. Once we reached our destination, we left the train station and headed northwards to reach Lindow's old town. It is situated in a lovely location on an isthmus between the lakes Gudelacksee and Wutzsee. Having reached the Markt, the main square, we met up with André who then showed us the surroundings. We first reached the nice viewpoint of the Wutzsee with a statue of a nun, and then nearby the Kloster Lindow. This Cistercian nunnery was built around 1230 and comprised a cloister surrounded by the convent buildings in the east and west, the cloister church in the north, and a smaller structure on the southern side partially opening towards the lake. During the Thirty Years' War the monastery, as well as the town were pillaged and burned, from then on the place never recovered. In fact, today the monastery stands mostly in ruins with only foundations and parts of some of the buildings surviving. Once we walked around the complex we thanked André for his time and friendliness and let him go to get ready for his paddle surfing while we headed on to hike around the lake. We headed east following the northern bank of the Wutzsee, initially walking on the lower path but eventually finding it too full of mosquitoes and so deciding to move to the upper one. We walked through a mostly forested landscape with the occasional views of the lake to our right, eventually reaching the end of the lake. Here we continued on through the forest and after a bit more reached another lake, Huwenowsee. At its western end, we found a small opening in the trees with a small beach. We set ourselves in the shade, a bit further from two other couples there already. We took out our lunch and started eating. Before eating I decided to have a refreshing swim in the lake and then headed to join the other two. After the lunch break, we continued on our hike and started following the northern bank of the Huwenowsee. At its eastern end, we then arrived at Meseberg where the famous Schloss Meseberg is located. This Baroque palace is the retreat of the Chancellor of Germany and the official state guest house of the German Federal Government. We passed it and then circled around the lake following its southern end and heading now westwards. We made a complete round of the lake and then continued on through the forest until we reached the other lake, Wutzsee. Here we followed its southern bank and halfway along its length stopped once again. I had another swim, and the water was even nicer here. After the break we got back on our feet continued westwards and eventually came back to Lindow, having walked around two lakes. Once in town, before heading home we decided to walk to the western side and reach the Gudelacksee, the largest of Lindow's two lakes. Compared to the other one, which was wilder and forested, this one, at least in its eastern part was more developed, with a pier, a cafè/restaurant right by the water, and quite some boats anchored as well as sailing by. Finally, it was time to head to the train station, we walked the path and eventually reached it to take our ride to Berlin. Unfortunately, only once home I found out I had left my swimsuit drying on the bench next to the lake.

The old town of Lindow

View of the Wutzsee

The ruins of the Lindow Monastery

Another view of the ruins

The Wutzsee

A forest trail

A view of Schloss Meseberg

Sunflower field

A beach along the Huwenowsee


Wednesday, April 9, 2025

Honeymoon in Kenya & Tanzania (27/05-13/06/2024)

After our amazing wedding in Vicenza, my wife Ania, and I decided to go on our honeymoon to Kenya and Tanzania. We left Vicenza and took a plane from Venice, switching once to Istanbul. After several hours of flight, we eventually reached Nairobi, Kenya's capital. We arrived late but had arranged a pickup to pick us up directly at the airport. After a bit of waiting the driver came, telling us he had fallen asleep. Nevertheless, we drove through the city and eventually reached our accommodation the Lotos Inn & Suites in the Westlands district. After checking in we immediately went to sleep as we were quite tired. The next day we woke up late and had a tasty breakfast on the rooftop of the hotel with a great view of the city. We then relaxed a little there and then decided to have a walk around the neighborhood. I didn't remember so much of the city since I had been there when I was just 8 years old, visiting my aunt who was living there, but still, it seemed the city had grown so much and had now so many skyscrapers all around. We headed to a nearby market where there were several stalls of Masai people selling their goods. We bought some souvenirs but thought to buy more later on our trip as well however we didn't know the prices in this one would be much cheaper than in other places, especially close to the safari parks. After our purchase, we headed back to the hotel and napped a little. Eventually, for dinner, we decided to stay in the hotel and had a really tasty Chinese meal as the hotel specialized in that cuisine. After the meal, we headed to sleep as we had a long day ahead of us.

The next morning we woke up early and got picked up and brought to our tour company's office in the city center. Here we were briefed and paid the remaining money. We then bought some snacks and water from the supermarket and met our driver and guide Lawrence and our travel mates, Connor an oceanographer from the U.S., and two Chinese guys an older and a younger one. We got ready and left with our jeep heading westwards through the countryside until we reached the Great Rift Valley which runs from Eritrea all the way to Mozambique. On the eastern side of it, standing high above, despite the clouds we could see the immense space below us and the hills on the other side. Continuing onwards we stopped in the town of Narok for a bathroom break and then a little bit further at a roadside restaurant where we had lunch. Next to the building was a tree filled with beautiful yellow birds known as vitelline masked weaver which built their nests hanging upside down from the tree branches. After our stop, we continued driving and eventually left the trafficked road to follow a minor one heading south. The roads were really good and newly asphalted; only in some villages, they were simple dirt roads. A few kilometers before reaching our destination looking to our left we spotted the first giraffes, clearly visible with their necks jutting out among the treetops. Right behind and around them we then spotted wildebeest and zebras. We also managed to spot a small group of vervet monkeys. Despite having seen them before it was still a magical experience and we were all so excited. Shortly after we finally reached Ololaimutiek Village where our camp, Miti Mingi Eco Camp, was located. We were shown to our tents where we left our luggage: the camp was large but there weren't many other tourists there at that time which made it quite nice and relaxing. Soon after we got back in the jeep and went for our evening game drive. We entered the Masai Mara, a game reserve that is actually contiguous with the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania and divided from it by the Mara River. It is named in honor of the Maasai people, the ancestral inhabitants of the area, who migrated to the area from the Nile Basin. As soon as we entered the reserve we immediately saw a large array of wildebeest, zebras, and additionally Thompson's gazelles, and a few water buffaloes. That was really exciting and we had many more animals to see. The temperature was really great, not hot and windy and pleasant. A little further on we spotted some hartebeest, a type of antelope, topi, another type of antelope, and a larger type of gazelle called the grant's gazelle. Continuing onwards we passed some giraffes and then reached a pond where we found some hippos relaxing in the water. We also spotted a small group of mongooses crossing the dirt road and heading for their burrows. A rare spot was the black-backed jackal which briefly shot across the road not far from us.  As we continued onwards, far in the distance, at the foot of the hills we could also make out the figure of a solitary elephant, but we would end up finding many more and up close in the coming days. After a drive around sunset was soon approaching and it was time to head back to the camp. We exited the reserve and reached our place where we showered and got then ready to eat. A buffet was served at 7pm with the other guests and we had a delicious array of food. Beans, sweet potatoes, cassava, rice, meat, and some fruit. Finally, after dinner, it was time to head to sleep as we would be getting up early the next morning. 

In the morning, after breakfast with more buffet food, including peanut butter with some ants, we got in the car and re-entered the Masai Mara game reserve. After driving through and seeing the animals we had seen the day before, we also saw some grey crested cranes and a beautiful lilac-breasted roller. Shortly after, Lawrence, our guide and driver, heard on the radio something and quickly drove to a location in the middle of the savannah. Once there we got to see a cheetah, solitary, walking through the grassland. Only another car was there and later many more came to see. After a bit of observing it we continued on our drive spotting more grassfeeeders including the Eland, the largest type of antelope. Not long after, another radio interception and we reached a spot where a lioness and her cubs were lying and relaxing in the grass. Again soon after a whole array of cars came to see so we decided to leave thereafter. Not too far away we then came upon the male lion, hiding inside a bush surrounded by cars. They were driving close to it and pushing the gas creating a rumble to try to scare him out. We were quite upset and told Lawrence who then tried to convince the others through the radio to do the same. We left and thought that probably as soon as we had the cars would start again to do so. Finally, a short drive away we came upon a large herd of elephants. There was the matriarch, the large females and males, and then the babies as well. They approached us in a line and then crossed the road right by our car, continuing on their journey. Driving onwards we then came upon a male ostrich, bright red in the neck due to the fact it was searching for a mate. In fact, the intensity of the red is determined on if the ostrich is searching for a mate or has one already. We then saw some giraffes and gazelles and the cute little warthogs which have a curious way of being their forelegs when eating. We then reached the Mara River where we saw the famous crossing zebras and wildebeest take on during the great migration. However, as expected we also spotted several crocodiles lying in the sun and perfectly camouflaged with the surrounding landscape. The Kenyan soldiers stationed there close to the border provided a short tour of the area as one could not walk alone, and the one we had was nice and showed us the river banks and the bridge that collapsed following a flood a few months prior. We gave him a tip in the end and then headed back to the car to continue on our tour. We stopped under a tree and had the lunch we were given at the camp. After that, we got back in the car and continued our drive. We saw already seen animals as well as some new ones such as a group of baboons, a hyena, secretary birds, and more lions. Dark clouds were approaching and our drive was at its end. We headed out of the park just as it started raining and reached the camp. After showering it started raining a lot and went on throughout the night. During the dinner, it was even hard to talk to each other due to the sound the rain made on the aluminum roof.

The next morning the sun was out again and after breakfast, we packed our stuff and got in the car to drive to the next park. To get out we drove through the Masai Mara and saw once again many animals. Then we headed northwards passing through countryside and villages and even reaching the highest point at nearly 3000m. At one point we wanted to stop for a pee. We were in a village and Lawrence suggested to use the toilets at a kindergarten. Ania and I headed to the toilet in the back while the two Chinese decided to take out some food and give it out to the little kids inside. They were throwing food around and taking photos and videos of themselves with the kids. The teacher looked confused and embarrassed but they let them do it. After Ania and I had come out of the toilet we then saw the younger Chinese throw some chips up in the air and fake a trip to fall on the ground and let the chips fall on him. All the kids then jumped on the guy to get the chips while the other Chinese man was filming. Back in the car then the two started to grab the water from the cooler, which was for our group to use during the safaris, and started to give it outside the car window to other kids who had gathered around the school. Lawrence yelled at them to stop but they continued as they apparently didn't even understand the word stop in English. I then closed the window on them and made a cross sign with my arms telling them to stop and they finally understood. We left in the car and after a few minutes, lulled by the drive I was starting to fall asleep. Behind me though I heard crying and figured it was the younger Chinese who was crying. I thought maybe, as they were always on their phones, that he might have gotten news of a relative or friend who passed away. But then I saw that the other one was filming him crying. In fact, as soon as the video stopped, he also stopped crying, went back to the phone, and started laughing while watching videos. Apparently, it was all an act as I came to see later on when they had put a video together of them giving the food to the kids, crying after, and all accompanied by a sad Chinese song. I told Ania we would probably end up on national TV in China as they may be famous social media people. After some driving, we eventually reached the plains of the Rift Valley once again and then the Lake Nakuru National Park. As we drove through the park we saw the usual animals, zebras, gazelles, and warthogs, and then the landscape changed as we approached the lake. This is one of the many lakes of the Rift Valley which once together with neighboring Lake Elementaita and Lake Naivasha, formed one single, deep freshwater lake that eventually dried up, leaving the three lakes as remnants. Nowadays the lake is in fact an alkaline lake and apt for many species of birds. We approached the lake on a close causeway and immediately saw a huge array of pelicans crowding the shore. It was an incredible sight and probably one of the best of the whole holiday. Right behind them also a huge amount of both lesser and greater flamingos, bright in their pink color. Around there were also ibises and fish eagles. We continued our drive, through the lush forest next to the lake which looked like a whole different world compared to Masai Mara. We came upon a baboon stuck on top of a tree and a lion below it waiting. The baboon tried to scare the lion off by throwing branches and yelling at it but the lion didn't seem to budge. We drove onwards and then finally got to the rhino, not sure if the white or black one due to the distance. It was so cute with its tiny eyes and its very skittish behavior despite its size. We also saw many water buffaloes, waterbucks, and Rothschild's giraffes. Further driving took us to a spot where a couple of lions were lying on their backs and then two more rhinos in the distance. We left the park just as darkness came and then checked in at our hotel Buraha Zenoni Hotel & Resort which also had a pool that we didn't use. Both dinner and breakfast were really good. 

The next morning we left and headed to the next destination, Lake Navaisha, another of the Rift Valley lakes this one made up of freshwater. Here we did the optional boat tour which we paid once there and got on a boat with a friendly local that took us to the main spots. He showed us how the lake had grown in size and water and thus part of a village and forest was now underwater. There were many hippos and we asked him if he ever got attacked. He told us five times and said that if a boat guide ever told you not once either he is a liar or inexperienced and thus should be avoided. He then took us across the lake to a small island called Crescent Island. Along the way, we spotted several birds including cormorants, pelicans, and fish eagles. Once we reached the island we were surprised to see Rothschild's giraffes so up close. Alongside there were other animals including vervet monkeys, waterbucks, gazelles, and zebras. The island was once attached to the mainland but due to rising levels got cut off. It was then populated with animals for the setting of the 1980s film, Out of Africa, and since then the animals which were isolated and without any predators continued to roam. Now people can do a walking safari and get to see them up close. In fact, when we got back from our boat tour our group mate Connor decided to head there and do some walking. This is where the group also broke up, Connor and the two Chinese would stay one day longer and head to the Hells Gate National Park, while Ania and I joined another group at a lunch spot and continued our journey. We joined the other car and drove off to Nairobi dropping off someone and taking in another. From there, a long drive then took us all the way to Amboseli National Park in southern Kenya at the foothill of the Kilimanjaro mountain which we unfortunately could barely see due to the clouds covering its peak. Once there we checked in the Nyati Safari Camp and after dinner went to bed. We saw the group we had joined had a minivan rather than a jeep and thus we contacted our tour operator, Fiona, and asked her as she had told us we would have it for the whole safari if we could somehow join another group. She said we would be picked up the next day and join one.

The next morning however, the driver who had brought us there wasn't aware of it and after a bit of contact and waiting finally told us he would take us to the park entrance where we would join the other group. Once there we entered the car where four Chinese girls were present. Luckily they were much quieter and respectful compared to the other two from the previous days but maybe not as funny because of that. Anyway, we had a nice day and entered the park seeing the animals right after. Actually, on the way from the camp to the park we had already seen quite a few giraffes and elephants. In fact, the whole area was filled with them, especially the latter. Heading through the main road we also saw warthogs, a fish eagle, gazelles, and a hyena sleeping in a bush right next to the road. We then came across a large herd of elephants that crossed the road and one of them even stopped very close to the cars and opened his ears and trumpeted to signal to us not to get closer. After crossing what looked like an abandoned village or camp, we saw a group of baboons and then reached a lodge, the Ol Tukai Lodge Amboseli, where we could have a toilet break. The place was beautiful with vervet monkeys and baboons just roaming around the lush greenery inside. After the toilet break, we bordered the nearby alkaline lake where we saw many pink flamingos as well as hippoes in the nearby freshwater ponds. In a bush not far away we also came upon a family of lions chilling in the shade. After that we stopped on a solitary hill, the Noomotio Observation Point, where we had lunch and enjoyed the view over the surrounding landscape. After one last drive through the park, we headed back to the camp for a shower and later dinner. After dinner, we met again with Connor and the two Chinese who had just arrived and would do Amboslei the next day. 

Ania, and I, the next day joined the van again and drove through the park at sunrise. We saw many animals along the way and headed west toward our next destination. Once we reached the west gate a part of the group was done and would head back to Nairobi while we two an American lady and her son would continue with us to Namanga on the border with Tanzania. We had gotten our visas online but once there we were told we were supposed to print them. We were taken by the driver to a nearby shop where they then asked us 10 dollars to print them. That was outrageous and instead, I gave them a five euro note and told them that was worth 8 dollars take it or leave it. They accepted and we then headed to the border control with our stuff. The American lady and her son, despite doing it on the spot, were already done as we crossed and then together we waited for the transfer that eventually took us to the city of Arusha. We checked in at the Charity Hotel and spent the rest of the day there, in the nice garden, having first lunch, then a nap, and later dinner. 

The next day we woke up early and waited for our driver, Suma, to pick us up and the rest of the group. It was us two, plus the American lady and her son, an Italian girl, a Norwegian guy, and a Taiwanese girl. We headed west and along the way stopped for a toilet break and souvenirs. We didn't buy any as the prices were really high and even with haggling so much more than the market in Nairobi. After a bit more driving we reached the entrance of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, to continue onwards towards Serengetin in fact, this was the only main road. We stopped here for another break while our guide and driver Suma got the documents. The area around there was so diverse; it was cloudy, humid, and very jungly all around. We were also at a quite high altitude, above 2000m. We entered through the gate and drove through the conservation area. We would come back later in our trip but for now, we were heading westwards towards Serengeti. After reaching the higher altitudes the sun was out and we stopped at the Simba campsite right on the rim of the so-called Ngorongoro Crater. Here was going to be our campsite in a few days but for now we were just stopping to have our packed lunch. After that, we continued on our drive and passed a beautiful area with several Masai villages with traditional straw and mud huts. We drove around the scenic Malanja Depression, surrounded by volcanic hills and with a large alkaline lake at its center, and then headed downhill to reach the savannah which then becomes the Serengeti Park. As we entered it we started seeing the usual animals, however, here we noticed how zebras stood face to face with their head leaning on the back of the one in front. This was a way for them to apparently relax but at the same time check each other's backs for potential approaching predators. Continuing onwards we then spotted our first vulture and a small pack of lions in the shade. We even caught one which was eating prey, the head of a wildebeest. Then we came across an amazing sight, huge herds of wildebeest and zebras traveling together as far as the eye could see. These were the famous migrations of the Serengeti. Another particular feature were the kopjes, or rock outcroppings typical of the landscape and occurring solitary here and there. Among one of them, we spotted some cute hyraxes, small herbivorous mammals resembling rodents, and in another one a lion lying under the shade of a tree. Driving on we then stopped under a tree where a male lion was lying on its back below it and the female resting sprawled over a branch on top. There were many other dead wildebeest and zebras around the area, most of them covered with marabou storks and vultures feasting on them. We then reached a large pond where several hippos were relaxing and enjoying the water that usually protects their soft skin from the strong sun rays. It was then time to head to our campsite, the Nyani Campsite. Once there, most probably because of the dust, the car's backdoor was stuck and we couldn't get it open. Inside were the tents and mattresses as well as some of the group's backpacks and our suitcase. We tried forcing it with the help of other guides/drivers as well as throwing water over it but it didn't budge. Half an hour went by and then we decided that Suma would take the American lady and her son to their lodge, and then the Italian to hers before coming back to us at the campsite. Finally, once back we were able to open it and get our stuff. They then set up our tents and we joined the many other groups which were already there for dinner. We stayed with a group consisting of two girls, one from France and the other from Belgium, and two Chinese guys who at least had a basic level of English. Dinner was nice but we figured out it was much better in Kenya despite being told otherwise previously, even by our Kenyan tour owner. Our camp was surrounded by a multitude of wildebeest, which sounded like a constant croak of frogs during the night. However, above us, without any human settlements and lights the beautiful sky full of stars made the experience once in a lifetime. 

The next morning, at sunrise, right before having breakfast, we noticed a super cute group of mongoose trailing its way through the tents and heading for the kitchens to try to get some leftovers from dinner. Despite being scared they stayed really close and we managed to take several photos and videos of them. After breakfast with the other group, our driver Suma came to pick us up and we headed on for our full-day safari. As we left camp we saw all around us hot air balloons lifting up in the sky, for the many rich people who want to have such an experience. Driving on we saw the usual animals, wildebeest, which had left the area of our camp probably during the night, gazelles, zebras, and several birds like marabou and vultures. We then reached a large pond which was filled to the brink of hippos. We stayed there to observe for a while and then drove on. We saw giraffes and then a cheetah trying to get close to the zebras without success. Then a feast of vultures on a dead carcass of a wildebeest, and another with marabous on that of a zebra. Moving on we saw the culprit, a lion carrying the head of a wildebeest and then some ostriches running through the savannah. After spotting more animals, including three more lions, we headed back to the camp for lunch. Eventually, it was time to leave Serengeti and head to Ngorongoro. Along the way, we stopped at the Olduvai Gorge Monument. The gorge, located about 5km to the north, is one of the most important paleoanthropological localities in the world. It is there in fact that Homo habilis, probably the first early human species, originated approximately 1.9 million years ago. After the brief stop, we then had to look for the place where the Italian lady would spend the night. Apparently, none of the other drivers knew where it was as it was very new. We asked some Masai along the way but they sent us off track. We found another tribe, and finally, after driving through the bush for over half an hour we found the place. Curiously there were five staff members just waiting outside the gate with fresh juice on a tray. We wondered if they were maybe waiting for someone else or if they just had been waiting the whole time there for any guest to arrive. We dropped of the group member and then drove upwards passing again the Malanja depression with its Masai villages. We reached the Simba Campsite where we got off with the others while the American lady and her son were brought to their lodge not too far. Suma would have to then drive all the way back in the night to the Italian lady's lodge and leave again real early to come pick us up the next day. We joined the group of Belgian, French, and Taiwanese girls with the two Chinese men for dinner and it was quite a nice time. We then headed to sleep in our tents and that night turned out quite cold as we were at about 2500m above sea level and the place was humid and it rained slightly during the night. 

The next morning cold and hungry we gathered for breakfast before sunrise and then waited for Suma to come pick us up. After that, it was time for our full-day safari descending down into the Ngorongoro Crater.  This is the world's largest inactive, intact, and unfilled volcanic caldera. The crater, which formed when a large volcano erupted and collapsed on itself two to three million years ago, is 610 meters deep and its floor covers 260 square kilometers. As we descended the landscape and climate changed. From the humid jungle perimeter at the top, we descended to a more barren savannah interior. In the middle, there is also an alkaline lake, Lake Magadi. After reaching the crater floor we started seeing several animals. Gazelles, zebras, lots of water buffaloes, and birds such as white herons, grey crested cranes, and lots of flamingos on the lakeshore. A little later we spotted a couple of hyenas, and then the odd elephant which here is not so common. Giraffes we didn't see but found out later they weren't present there. For most animals it is hard to climb up and exit the crater thus most stay inside of it. Driving on we spotted a lioness trying to teach her two already quite old cubs how to hunt zebra but without success. Following the road, we then spotted the rare serval, the smallest of the wild cats. A bit further we came across a large pack of baboons eating the grass tips. Two of them jumped on the car and started playing with the antenna but Suma shooed them off otherwise they might have caught a sniff of the food inside and attempted to enter as our hood, like all other days, was fully open for viewing. Continuing on our drive we spotted some more elephants and a solitary ostrich and then Suma heard some chatter on the radio. We drove up a hill where many other cars were set and managed to spot far in the distance a couple of rhinos. After the nice view, we passed an eland and then another group of baboons. It was time to head out of the crater; we followed the road uphill and out, as the landscape changed around us becoming a thick lush forest. We reached the top and drove along the perimeter until we got back to the camp. Here we had our last meal on the safari with the other group as well. Then we drove eastwards leaving the Ngorongoro conservation area behind us. At the foothills, we dropped the Italian lady off and the Taiwanese girl in the town of Karatu, and moved on to reach the Lake Manyara National Park. Here the American lady and her son were going to stay and visit the park the following day while the rest of us moved on to reach Arusha. We then said our goodbyes and wished our goodlucks to the others, each going in a different direction. The Norwegian guy would spend the next days climbing Mount Kilimanjaro while the French and Belgian girls would head over to Zambia. 

In Arusha, we spent the night in the same hotel as before and then in the morning got a taxi to the airport. The waiting room was actually outside right next to the runway, and finally, we got on our plane to Zanzibar an insular semi-autonomous region of Tanzania. Once there we met up with our driver which I had previously contacted to arrange a tour on the way to our hotel in the northeast of the island. Our first stop was Stone Town, we got dropped off close to the waterfront and in front of the old fort. It was built by Omani Arabs in the 17th century as Zanzibar itself was ruled first by the Portuguese, quite indirectly, and later by the Sultanate of Oman. The town itself became so important that it was then turned into the Sultanate's capital in the 19th century, instead of Muscat. The island and its territories became independent only in 1964 after a bloody rebellion that caused the death and expulsion of most of the Arabs. The island then joined Tanganyika to form the United Republic of Tanzania. Next to the fort but covered in scaffolding was the House of Wonders, one of the sultan's palaces in town. Across from it we then walked through the nice Forodhani Gardens where we then reached the water, a preamble of the beautiful waters that circle the island. We then started walking through the narrow streets of the old town, admiring the beautiful and peculiar architecture and the famous wooden doors that characterize Zanzibar. The many examples of carved wooden doors throughout the city exemplify the importance the city had in the past, with an extensive trade that through Indian, Arab, Swahili and European connections also influenced the style of its many doors. We walked through the mander of streets and apart from the magnificent doors also looked up to see the mix of styles and interesting balconies the buildings featured. We then stopped in a small shop/workshop where we bought a couple of wooden magnets of the famous doors, the owner was very friendly and obviously talented as we saw from his many other creations. At one point we passed a crowded point where people were gathered to take pictures of the childhood of Freddie Mercury who was in fact born in Stone Town. Moving on we reached St Joseph's Cathedral built by French missionaries between 1893 and 1897. A little further the old Portuguese Arch was built during the Portuguese Empire's laxed rule over the area. Then through the narrow streets, we passed through a popular intersection where the most beautiful streets of the old town were located. They were also the busiest with touts trying to sell us all kinds of things. We then passed the Persian baths and reached the Anglican Cathedral of Christ Church built at the end of the 19th century. It was constructed in the center of the city where previously the biggest slave market of Zanzibar was located; the place was deliberately chosen to celebrate the end of slavery, and the altar was in the exact spot where the main whipping post of the market used to be. Next up was the Bazaar where we walked through the many wares, from spices, meats, fruit and veggies, to furniture, clothing, and many other things. After walking around we then casually picked what seemed like a nice place for lunch. The place was called Secret Garden and was inside a beautiful ancient palace all filled with plants and with a really nice setting. Here I had a delicious dish with fried shrimp in a tamarind sauce with lentils and sauces and Ania had grilled veggies with the same sides.  We completed the tour of the town and reached the spot where we had been dropped off. After a bit of waiting, we then found out our driver had parked behind a tree and we got in the car to continue the journey. We left town and headed northwards stopping then at the Maruhubi Palace. Located close to the waterfront it was built in the late 19th century for Sultan Barghash to house his impressively large harem. A few years later it was destroyed by fire, but the surviving parts of the complex hint at its size and splendor. A mandatory guided tour of the place was made by an old man who spoke sufficient English but didn't seem to know anything out of his planned and learned phrases. He showed us to the surviving columns of the gardens with the pools and then to some of the rooms where the harem was located as well as the baths. Once we had seen the place we headed back to the car and finally after quite a bit of driving reached our hotel the Sunshine Marine Lodge. Once there we checked in and then were mesmerized and amazed by the beauty of the place. It had a beautiful garden filled with all kinds of palms, trees, and flowers, including colorful bougainvillea. Then we were even more amazed when we reached our room located in one of the traditional wooden and straw huts right at the seafront. The view from the room and terrace was amazing, facing east over the sea and towards the tiny Mnemba island close by. We had booked the room with half pension and for dinner headed to the common room, right next to the infinity pool and the seafront to eat dinner. I had some shrimp as appetizer and tuna steak in sauce as first course plus a coconut cake as dessert while Ania had a red beet mango carpaccio and chicpea cashew curry. During the dinner two cats joined the room and decided I was an easy prey and constantly tried jumping on me to get the food. Then a super cute and curious galago also known as bush baby, a small nocturnal primate, decided to come as well and was then fed some banana by the hotel staff. We enjoyed the dinner and thought everything was really tasty. 

The next morning we took advantage of the fact that we were used to getting up early for the safaris and got up for sunrise. The view from our room was perfect with the sun coming up from the sea ahead of us and then over Mnemba Island. Its wonderful red and orange colors mesmerized us as we relaxed on the chairs on the terrace while listening to the lulling of the waves below. After a bit there we decided to head to the common room for breakfast. Here we had a choice of sweet and savory and I decided to get an omelet and alternate with pancakes every day till the end of our stay, Together with that I had then a delicious plate of fresh fruit and then some toast bread with homemade jams. After eating we got our stuff and then headed to the pool area where we took two sunbeds right in front of the sea. Zanzibar is known for its tide change, depending on the moon cycle and time of the day. In that period the morning had low tide and it was amazing to see a section of shallow water right below the hotel with beautiful blue and green ponds where locals would walk through and pick up shells to eat and sell. Then a line of rocks and over that the open sea. When the tide rose the rocks would become an underwater reef and the ponds would unify to form the open sea up till the shoreline of the hotel. After relaxing a bit in the sun I decided to have a walk along the coast as the tide was still at its lowest point. In fact, below the cliffside, a sandy part had formed with just a few sections of rock that allowed me to reach the large sandy beach of Muyuni about half an hour's walk to the north. Along the way, I saw lots of crabs scurrying away in the crevices of the rocks, and once at the beach, several people and boats, mostly locals and very few tourists. I then met a 15-year-old local who asked me if I spoke Polish. I answered positively and he was surprised. We started speaking Polish to each other and he told me he was selling shells at the beach to help his parents and that during the week he studies at a school in Kigomani where he lives and that he is the only one in the area to speak Polish. Apparently, lots of Polish tourists have started coming to Zanzibar and some locals have already picked up the language. Several other locals stopped me as well to ask me where I was from and to sell me stuff or tours, but others were just curious to know me. Many wondered why there weren't other Italians around, as usually there's a lot, and I was telling them I wondered the same. Most probably because it is out of season and people come more in the winter when it's cold in Europe. After a nice refreshing swim in the pools in front of the beach, I decided to head back to the hotel before the tide would rise too much making it much harder to head back. I walked through the navigable shallow canal between the coastline and rocky reef and saw many different starfish in all colors and sizes as well as some fish. But I needed a mask or goggles to see them better, something I would resolve later on. I had walked barefoot the whole way and stupidly only later realized that maybe I should've borrowed the reef shoes earlier as there was a high risk of encountering the rockfish which are poisonous when stepped on and can also be deadly. Once back at the hotel I rejoined Ania and lay on the sunbed enjoying the paradise that surrounded us while reading a book. The weather was perfect sunny with just a few clouds and quite windy so never too hot. Sunset, as we were close to the equator was early, so we headed to the room to shower and then back down for dinner. I had a shrimp salad as an appetizer and then a meat skewer with rice while Ania had a ratatouille first and then potato and veggie pancakes, finally for dessert I had maracuja cheesecake while Ania took fruit. 

The following day we got up again at sunrise and watched as the sun went up. Then we headed down for breakfast and after that decided to take advantage of the service provided by the hotel which had a car transfer to the partner hotel, Sunshine Bay, located a few kilometers down the coast. We took the minivan and reached the other hotel. We were shown around the place, it was a bit smaller and narrower, still with a beautiful garden and a pool but it featured a small beach with several sunbeds. We set ourselves there and admired the beautiful white sand and the blue of the water contrasting. We then decided to walk along the seashore heading south. We first passed some rocky parts with beautiful blue glistening pools and later reached the long stretch of white sand of Kigomani. We walked along the shore with nearly no one in sight, definitely no tourists, until the village of Matemwe. Once in a while, some locals hanging around under a tree or in a hut would come at us to try to sell us a boat tour or invite us to their restaurant. At our negative response, they would either leave immediately or start talking to us and ask where we were from. At the end of the village, we then turned around and walked back the whole way to the hotel. Once back we decided to have lunch. We set ourselves in the common room next to the pool and were given a small appetizer made of guacamole sandwiches. Then I ordered a tuna fish streak while Ania had avocado sushi. After lunch, we headed back down to the beach and relaxed some more. I also borrowed some reef shoes from the hotel and headed out to sea to explore a little. There were so many beautiful starfish, shells, and fish. Finally, before sunset, we got the car transfer that brought us to our hotel, Sunshine Marine. Here we showered and then got ready to go have dinner. Once again the bush babies were back, this time three of them. They were so cute eating the bananas with their little hands. For dinner, I had an appetizer of octopus and fish while Ania got a vegetable curry. 

The next day we decided to join the Dive Point which is located inside the hotel. We joined the organized tour and headed out to Mnemba Island where we were planning to snorkel in the reef. The sea was a bit rough that day as it was quite windy. Ania and another girl suffered and got seasick but still managed to get in the water for the first snorkel in the southern part of the reef circling the island. Along the way, we also managed to spot a few dolphins swimming along the boats. Once at the snorkel spot, we saw all kinds of fish, trumpetfish, angelfish, moorish idol, clownfish, stonefish, surgeonfish, butterflyfish, pennant coralfish, moray eel, crabs, porcupinefish, puffer fish, and many others I couldn't name. It was really amazing but the only thing was due to the wind the currents were really strong and made it hard to stay in one spot to admire the fish. In fact, we were then soon called back to the boat and we tried to move to a different spot a little further east. We had a couple of snacks, some fruit, and sponge cakes, and I tried to give some water and tea to Ania to help. In the meantime, the two from our group who had gone diving returned and joined us for the snorkel in the second part while Ania and the other girl decided to stay on the boat as they were very seasick and at one point also headed back early. We snorkeled a little more and then got back on the boat, unfortunately, earlier than planned. We headed back to the hotel and here decided to reach Ania who was in the room feeling much better. We headed down to the pool area and for lunch, she had a burger while I had a seafood curry. After that I decided to get the googles and reef shoes from the dive point and went to the sea pools right below the hotel to explore a little. I swam and crawled through the shallow water for quite some time seeing all kinds of sea creatures. Many fish, starfish, crabs, and even a moray eel, and a couple of sea snakes. After relaxing on the sunbeds while reading for the rest of the day we then went to shower and change and headed down for dinner. Again I saw the cute bushbabies and for dinner, I had crab cakes as appetizer and beef skewer, while Ania had pasta with veggies first and then daal. For dessert, I had ice cream while she got the fruit.

The following day we woke up at a decent hour and headed for breakfast. The morning was slightly cloudy but the sun soon came out once again. As always the wind was pleasant and the temperature was never too hot. After relaxing a bit on the sunbeds we decided to walk to Muyuni Beach, the beach to the north of the hotel which I had seen previously. Once there we decided to look for some coconut. We could only find the fresh large green one which we bought, first to drink its tasty water and then to scoop out its soft pulp. We continued walking further north along the beautiful white sand with the crystal clear water to our right. Reaching near the end of it we turned around and headed back the way we came. Before heading to the hotel I wished to find the county type I really liked, the small dry brown one as I had seen so many coconut trees along the beaches. We headed towards the interior past some shops in some huts and eventually found a street seller with coconuts. I bought one and had it cut and then happily walked back to the hotel while snacking on it. Once back at the hotel we took our spots on the sunbeds and relaxed eating then lunch directly there at the seafront. I had a burger while Ania had hummus with veggie sticks. After sunset, we showered and headed to the dining area, where we both had samosa as an appetizer, with meat mine, with veggies for Ania, and then I got delicious shrimp in a butter sauce while Ania took zucchini filled with vegetables and chickpeas. As dessert the usual, ice cream for me and fruit for Ania.

The following day was our last one in this paradise. We woke up not too early as we had a long day ahead of us and then headed down for breakfast. After that, we headed to the room and packed everything bringing then the suitcase to the hotel reception to pick up later on our departure. We then headed to the pool area and took our prime spot in the sunbeds right by the sea. We reminisced the whole trip to that point how fun it was during the safari and how amazing and relaxing it had been in Zanzibar. The hotel and location were stupendous, the water was incredible, the weather was perfect, and there were never many people in the hotel making it really an amazing choice for our honeymoon. We enjoyed some sun and reading and then decided to have a short walk along the seashore as it was low tide. I then headed through the shallow water and reached the rocks which protect it from the open sea. Then swimming back I checked out some fish and other marine beings. Once back at my sunbed, we decided to have lunch. I ordered the tasty grilled shrimp in a butter sauce with veggies and rice while Ania got the veggie burger. After the last hours of relaxing in that beautiful paradise, it was time to leave. We had arranged though with the same company that had taken us from the airport through Stone Town and to the hotel, to do a tour along the way to the airport. We left with the driver from the beautiful Sunshine Marine Lodge and headed north to reach the town of Nungwi, the largest in the northern part of the island. The island is popular among tourists as it has many hotels, restaurants, and a lively nightlife. Once there we told our driver to meet us again in two hours and headed off to explore. The place was quite crowded, mostly of locals, and the streets were narrow with many buildings. We were really happy to have booked our hotel but it was still nice to visit Nungwi at least once. We first reached the beach to the west and from there walk a bit in the sand and water. Then we entered the town and followed the main street sided by many hotels and restaurants. We reached the northern beach and decided to take an ice cream. There was a gelateria owned by an Italian and the ice cream turned out pretty good. Then we headed back to the western beach and sat on the sand to admire the sunset, which makes the town famous for it. However, there were quite a lot of people there, both tourists and locals, many of which booming out music on their stereos and many boats arriving or heading out for sunset tours. The view was great but the atmosphere a bit too crowded especially coming from our paradisiac week in the hotel. After sunset, we finally headed to meet up with our driver who took us all the way to the airport. We had a long trip ahead, we first had a flight from Zanzibar to Dar es Salaam. Then once there we had two wait a few hours for our flight to Istanbul. Once there we eventually managed to reach Berlin.

Driving through Masai Mara

Sunset in the park

A cheetah

A parade of elephants

An ostrich

A giraffe

The Mara River

Crocodile in wait

A lioness

View of Masai Mara

Pelicans in Lake Nakuru National Park

View of the park

A shy and elusive rhino

Lake Naivasha hippos

A cute baby giraffe

An elephant crossing in Amboseli National Park

A resting hyena

A vervet monkey

One of the park's salt lakes

Sunset drive

The so-called zebra hug in Serengeti

A male lion

Lots of wildebeest

Mongooses in our camp

Hot air balloons

A pond full of hippos

Flamingos in Ngorongoro

A view of the crater

Stone Town's old fort in Zanzibar

A view of the sea

A street in the old town

Another street and a typical wooden door

The ruins at Maruhubi

Sunsrise from our hotel room

The hotel grounds

The swimming pool

A starfish

The crystal clear water and Mnemba island

Low tide

A typical dhow

The view from our room