Villa dei Vescovi and Valbona Castle (05/05/2024)

On a sunny day, we decided to head to the Euganean Hills and visit some sites. Our first stop was the Villa dei Vescovi, a Renaissance-style, rural palatial home initially built for the archbishops of Padua and now owned by the Fondo Ambiente Italiano (FAI). Once we had found parking nearby we headed inside after paying the ticket. As it's part of the monuments managed by FAI both my brother and mom had their cards granting them access while for me they bought another yearly pass. We entered the beautiful garden and from there admired the building in front of us. The villa was erected between 1535 and1542 by the architect Giovanni Maria Falconetto as a summer residence for Padua's bishops but it is believed there was some intervention by the famous Giulio Romano as well. The building initially contained a rectangular courtyard with two wings and an open loggia on the ground floor, while the piano nobile had an open loggia looking down to the valley. In the second half of the eighteenth century, the distribution of the interior spaces of the piano nobile was changed: the inner court was closed and four side rooms with a central hall were created according to the classic floor plan of the later Venetian villas. The interior was frescoed in late 1543 by the Flemish painter Lambert Sustris. From the Italian-style garden in the back, we then went around the main building and headed down the valley where the rest of the villa's park is set. Here are many rows of vineyards which give the site an even more idyllic view. Back at the villa we entered it and started exploring the rooms at the piano nobile. We first walked through the eastern loggia with its beautiful frescoes and an amazing view of the countryside around. From the loggia, we then went to the hall which was a result of the 18th-century refurbishment as it replaced the central courtyard and featured stuccoes instead of frescoes. Next up were the antechamber and bishop's chamber, two rooms set up using some of the furnishings already present in the villa with the aim of evoking the domestic environments of the bishop's domus. The next room was the dining room, originally two separate rooms it was then turned into its current purpose by the Olcese family who owned the villa in the 20th century. It features large parts of surviving frescoes representing the myth of Orpheus and the myth of Apollo and Marsia. From the room, we walked over to the western loggia and after admiring its frescoes and beautiful view we entered another small room. The putto's room featured beautiful illusionistic frescoes on marine horizons and landscapes with ruins, country houses, and small figures and obviously the fresco of a putto in the bottom left corner as a foreground contrast to the rest of the views. Next up was the larger ancient figures room, with the most intact wall decorations in the villa. There are figures in ancient costumes and oratorical poses as well as the upper frieze featuring trophies, vases, armor and weapons, and landscapes. Next door were the fireplace room and the study, originally combined into a single space. It featured furniture used by the Olcese family but the frescoes were those from the 16th century featuring faux-tapestries motifs and festons held by naked figures, birds, and other things. Finally to complete the round were the room of the pisan lions and the bathroom. The name is due to the rampant lions appearing repeatedly on the upper part of the wall and in the coat of arms of the Pisani family, whose member Bishop Francesco Pisani commissioned the construction of the villa. Along the walls are more frescoes of landscapes, faux niches with statues, and trophies, and on the frieze more garlands and sacrificial scenes and scenes with divinities. The bathroom features old furniture which the Olcese family used including two commodes from the 18th century. After the visit to the villa, it was time for lunch. We headed to the Trattoria Pizzeria Liviana, right across the gardens, and there I had a tasty bigoli with duck sauce. Heading back to the car we then drove across the hills and reached the Valbona Castle.  This mighty medieval fortress dominates the plain west of Mount Lozzo, one of the volcanic hills of the Euganean hills, and was probably erected in the 13th century. Rather than an actual castle with a court, this was a fort designed to house a garrison of ten or twelve armed men: four knights, eight foot soldiers with a captain, and a certain number of servants for the normal operation of the structure. Today the scenic castle with its hexagonal towers, main tower in the center, and crenellated walls all around, represents one of the best-preserved structures in the area. There is now a restaurant inside and once we arrived we also saw a small gathering of stalls and music was set in the garden surrounding it. To our surprise we also saw a group of musicians singing country music, doing line dancing, and with a flag of the confederate states of the United States of America. After that surprise, we entered the castle and checked out the small inner courtyard. We then headed upstairs to the battlements to admire the nice view of the surrounding landscape. Then back down we circled the structure and admired it from the west side where it even features a drawbridge and was a great scenic spot. It was then time to go so after reaching the car we eventually drove home. 

Entrance to Villa dei Vescovi

The annex building

View of the Villa from its garden

A bedroom of the villa

The dining room

The main building

The loggia

Landscape near Lozzo Atestino

The Valbona Castle

The castle's keep

View from the top of the keep

View of the castle

Bicycle and canoeing trip around Comacchio (04/05/2024)

For my bachelor party, my brother had organized a trip to Comacchio where we would be doing some cycling and then canoeing. In the end, there were just three of us, my friend Alessandro, my brother, and me. After taking the car we drove southwards towards our destination and on the way stopped briefly to take a picture of the Villa Nani-Mocenigo in Canda. Built during the 16th century by either Vincenzo Scamozzi or Baldassare Longhena, two famous architects of the time, it then received its current southern facade in the 17th century. However, today the villa is abandoned, and that is quite a shame too. After some driving we reached Comacchio and immediately the other two went to buy a pack of beers for me to drink throughout the day. We then walked over the town's main monument, the Trepponti Bridge, consisting of actually five bridges together. On the other side, we then reached the bicycle rental shop where we managed to get bicycles for the three of us. We left the town and headed on the path along the canal that led us towards the sea and the town of Porto Garibaldi. Once there we crossed over the canal and continued southwards until we reached Lido degli Estensi a seaside town like many along this part of the Adriatic. Here, my task was to take a swim naked in the sea. The water was still quite cold and luckily there weren't many people around. I then downed my first beer and we got back on the bicycles to continued further. We passed another of the seven beach towns of Comacchio, the Lido di Spina, and then reached a nice section of path that went along a canal and small lagoons. Here we came across a flock of flamingoes, some of them quite pink too. We took several pictures and then continued onwards. We eventually reached the Valli di Comacchio, a series of contiguous brackish lagoons situated south of the city and once expanding six times what they are today. Comprising nowadays of four basins, they were once formed around the tenth century due to subsidence of the soil and silting of the coastal zone. Back then they featured fresh water from the recurrent flooding of the rivers but from the sixteenth century on, they gradually were filled with seawater resulting in the modern appearance of brackish water-filled basins. Famous for being the site of fishing eel today they are but a fraction of what they once were. We followed a beautiful path that shot straight through the major lagoon, called the Angels' Embankment. It was like cycling right into the sea with water all around us and just this tiny path ahead and behind us. There were several cyclists coming from both directions as well as the occasional hikers. One thing that we weren't prepared for was the millions of gnats flying around the area. It was impossible to speak or even open the mouth and even with sunglasses on we were getting thousands of them in the face as we went. Reaching over halfway down the path and finding ourselves in the middle of the huge lagoon we then decided to head back as we were still planning to have lunch somewhere and then later go canoeing. After downing my second beer, on the way back, we stopped once more to see the flamingoes and then got back to Lido degli Estensi. Here we stopped at the Friggitoria Treponti and had a large and delicious mixed fried seafood dish and down my third beer. Once full we got back on the bicycles and continued on this time bordering the lagoon to the north. We passed the old saltworks, once a thriving business in the area, and spotted more flamingoes. Then we cycled past the place where we would need to meet for the boat ride but still had to go all the way back to Comacchio to leave the bicycles. Once there, we got in the car and drove to the starting point where we met up with our group. Our guide showed us the basics and then let us sit in our canoes. There were the three of us in one, plus another group of three, and then another three plus the guide. He told us the history of the basins and then we canoed through the one directly south of the city, the Valle Fattibello. We passed through a beautiful area admiring different birds including more flamingoes. Then he showed us the canal that connects the lagoon to the sea and where people still come to use the fishing lodges mounted on poles in the water set along the bank in order to fish and eat directly there. He also showed us how a type of crab, the blue crab, has been menacing the ecosystem of northwestern Italy as it proliferates very quickly and eats all clams, mussels, and smaller local crabs. Having come from other seas, it has no predators but humans so it is hard to eradicate. A little further down the canal, I first downed my fourth and last beer, and we disembarked from our canoes and went in the Agriturismo La Vallesina where our guide had arranged an apertivio. We had as much wine as we wanted plus bread, fries, and a large platter of mixed fried seafood. I was a bit tipsy by then, with four beers, and at least three glasses of wine. But that was still enjoyable, and back on the canoe, we headed back to the starting point, taking our slow time. Our guide told us more about the place and then let us paddle silently telling us to enjoy the silence and beauty around us. That was a really nice moment and really bliss. We also managed to see the beginning of the sunrise before finally disembarking. On our way back home I thought that my brother had chosen well and it ended up being a really great day.

Villa Nani-Mocenigo in Canda

The Trepponti bridge in Comacchio

The beach near Comacchio

The Angels' Embankment

Flamingos along the way

A close up of the flamingos

A view of the landscape

Canoeing through the lagoon

Canoeing into sunset

Sunset over the lagoon

Müritz National Park (01/05/2024)

On the first weekend of May, Ania and I decided to go on a day trip to hike in the Müritz National Park, north of Berlin, in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern. After taking the train we got off at the station of Kratzeburg where we would start our hike. We began by heading through open countryside, siding the Käbelicksee, and then a bit later another lake, the Granziner See. From there on we officially entered the national park, starting to head through the typical pine forests of northern and eastern Germany. After a bit of walking through the forest we passe yet another lake, Pagelsee, and then started heading northwards following the main trail. A few kilometers later, we bordered the Priesterbäker See and halfway up its length took a slight detour to climb up the Käflingsberg lookout tower. This 55m high tower stands on top of the 100m high hill of the same name. From the top, we could then admire an amazing 360-degree view. All around a vast endless green of the forests that cover the national park. Here and there the glistening blue of the many lakes dotting the landscape shimmering in the sunlight. Heading back down the tower we rejoined the trail and continued further through the forest. At one point we took another small detour this time reaching a platform on the Priesterbäker See where all alone, had a beautiful view of the lake with its shimmering water and the sound of birds all around us. Heading back to the trail we reached a small hamlet, called Speck, where an 800-year-old large-leaved linden. Nearby we reached the Hofsee where I had a refreshing naked swim. Continuing on and bordering the Specker See we spotted a large herd of cows and finally, the more apt deciduous trees were taking the place of the pine ones. As we continued we passed by some smaller lakes, Rederangsee and Warnkersee, and even spotted a large hare right on the trail. Finally, we came in sight of Waren the largest town in the area, and the immense Müritz which we had constantly kept to our left in the distance. The lake is the second-largest in Germany, after Lake Constance, and the largest located entirely in the country. After reaching Waren, we walked through the old town and then headed to the train station 36km from our starting point where we eventually took our ride back to Berlin.

The forest near Kratzeburg

View from the Käflingsberg lookout tower

On top of the tower

View of the tower

The forest of the national park

The Priesterbäker See

Old houses along the way

Cows grazing

Along the trail

View of Waren

The old town

Osterburg, Seehausen & Jerichow Monastery (14/04/2024)

During a mid-April weekend I decided to head to Sachsen Anhalt and visit a couple of towns and a monastery. My first stop was the town of Osterburg. Once there I left the train station and headed through the old town. I walked along a circular street that trods on what was once the medieval walls that encircled the city and which now features nice villas and houses. After that I reached the main church, St Nikolai, originally built in a Romanesque style during the 12rth century it was rebuilt in the 15th century in a late Gothic style, later refurnished in the 19th century, I found it open so went inside to visit. After the visit, I went through the Kleiner Markt with its Neptune fountain, made in Italy at the beginning of the 20th century. Walking through the rest of town I admired the nice architecture which included picturesque timber-framed buildings. Then heading back to the station I took a short ride and ended up in nearby Seehausen. Known as Hansestadt Seehausen, despite its distance from the Baltic Sea it became a member of the Hanseatic League in 1359 due to its location on the river Aland, a tributary of the Elbe. Its highlight is the church of St Peter, built in a Romanesque style in the 12th century but transformed in the current Gothic style in the mid-15th century and featuring two twin towers reaching a height of 62 meters. Unfortunately, as I approached it I found it closed so I couldn't visit the interior. I continued on through town and reached the northern end of the old town where the Beustertor is located. This 15th-century gate is the only one of five gates of the medieval walls which was not demolished in the 19th century. Right in front of it was the Salzkirche, a church built around 1460 in a brick Gothic style. Heading back through town I admired some nice timber-framed houses and passed by the small main square where the only ice cream shop was located and all the locals converged. Once back at the train station I then took a train to the city of Stendal and once there switched to a bus that took me to the small village of Jerichow. Here I then proceeded to visit the famous Jerichow Monastery, after paying an entry ticket. Included in the entry was an audioguide which through a QR on my phone I was able to listen to while touring the complex. Despite its name and its look, Jerichow was not really a monastery but rather a collegiate church. Founded in 1144 it was then managed by Premonstratensian canons which started the construction of the collegiate church. A three-naved Romanesque basilica was built in 1172 with the addition of a crypt and later a winter rectory and administrative offices. In the following century construction of the summer rectory and the cloister began. The last phase of construction was the addition of the westernmost bay with the 56-meter-high towers and the western façade from 1256 to 1262 in an early Gothic style. As an outstanding example of brick Romanesque architecture, the collegiate church of St. Mary and St. Nicholas is one of the oldest such buildings in northern Germany. The building was also a significant example of a transfer of style from Italy with master craftsmen from there who were involved in the early construction of the complex. I started out by visiting the cloister and then the chapterhouse dating to the end of the 12th century and occupying the eastern wing. Then heading towards the church I admired the beautiful portal of the canons, featuring a rich decoration with vegetable ornaments, representations of animals, and mythical creatures including that of a fox. The fox is disguised with the canon's religious robe while preaching to two geese, depicting the warning of false prophets and preachers. Next up was the interior of the church, a classic simple Romanesque with a 13th-century baptismal font right next to the western main face, large columns separating the three naves, and a raised apse. Below the apse, was the crypt with light grey sandstone pillars with elaborate finely crafted palmette and diamond band decorations some of which with figurative depictions. One of the pillars, the one on the far end, was taken to Magdeburg from the forum in Rome by Emperor Otto I in the 10th century and eventually made its way to Jericho. Next up, back through the cloister I visited two adjoining large rooms, the summer and winter refectories where the monks would have their meals depending on the season. Next to the winter one in fact there was a small room that served as a quite advanced heater that served its purpose well. Both refectories featured nice columns with decorated capitals. From there I then headed out and past the distillery, one of the main features of this and other monasteries. Now it was turned into a small museum detailing the complex's history. Once outside I then admire the complex from afar and from different perspectives getting to the western facade with its twin towers. One last walk through the herb garden, quite typical in German monasteries, I then out of the complex and through the village. Here I then came across the Romanesque town church of St. George, a brick building erected in the 13th century with a half-timbered tower that was added in the 17th century. Next to it is the castle hill, an artificially raised mound that was originally located directly on the Elbe and is now a few hundred meters from it as the Elbe changed its course several times after floods. A tower mound castle was built on the hill in the 12th century, surrounded by a double moat, a circular wall, and ramparts but was destroyed during the Thirty Years' War. In from the castle hill, I then waited for the bus that eventually took me to the town of Genthin. Here, I had some time until my next ride so walked around town exploring a little. However, as it was late everything was already closed and so I only admired the main square and baroque three-nave hall church of Sankt Trinitatis from the outside. Eventually, I headed to the train station and back to Berlin. 

The church of St Nikolai in Osterburg

The Kleiner Markt

A street in the old town with the church of St Nikolai

The Petrikirche in Seehausen

Another view of the church

The Beustertor

A street in the old town

The Jerichow Monastery

The monastery church

One of the refectories

The view from outside

The monastery seen from its park

View of the church's apse

Jerichow's Stadtkirche

Neustadt-Glewe & Grabow (13/04/2024)

On a quite warm mid-April weekend, I decided on a day trip northwest of Berlin to Mecklenburg-Vorpommern. My first stop was the town of Neustadt-Glewe. Once there I got off the train and headed towards the old town, coming across its main monument, Burg Neustadt-Glewe. Considered one of the best-preserved medieval castles in the state, it was built in the middle of the 13th century and further refurbished during the 14th and 15th centuries. Located on a slight butte in the southern part of town it dominates the area and the nearby Elde river. Today it hosts a restaurant on one side and the city museum on the other. I entered the small courtyard by passing through the main and only gate, sided by the tall thick keep tower. Once inside I took a few pictures and then headed back out to explore the rest of town. Close by I reached the Marienkirche, the town's main church. Towerless and in a single-nave brick form this church was built in a Gothic style during the 14th century. After a fire in 1728 it was rebuilt and in fact, features a baroque interior. From the church, I then walked through the nice main square, where the town hall was located, and past the Neues Schloss built between the 17th and 18th centuries as the residence of the future Duke Christian Ludwig II and now turned into a hotel. Once I was done touring the town it was time to head out. I left Neustadt-Glewe behind, heading through some pine forests and past colorful yellow rapeseed fields. After more than a couple of hours' walk, I eventually reached the next town, Grabow. Also situated on the river Elde, it has a small old town with several timber-framed houses. I quickly reached the main square, with the nice 18th-century town hall and other houses, mostly in timber framing, and then tried to visit the main church, St Georg. Built in a gothic brick style it features a tall tower but unfortunately, it was closed so I couldn't visit the interior. Instead, I wandered around town, walking through nearly all the streets in order to admire the nice timber-framed buildings the oldest of which was from 1702. I then waited by the river on a bench enjoying the warm sun until the train came to take me back home to Berlin

The Schloss Neustadt-Glewe

The Burg Neustadt-Glewe

Interior of the castle

The Mariekirche

The town hall

A street in the old town

Through a pine forest

Rapeseed field

Grabow's old town

The church of St Georg

The main square and town hall

A street in the old town